 MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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06-24-12 07:59 PM - Post#2240971
In response to csc
Sliding on all the way means something isn't right with the crank snout or damper bore.  The key is there mainly for alignment purposes. A press fit is what keeps the damper from slipping.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 06-24-12 08:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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06-24-12 08:09 PM - Post#2240976
In response to kitabel
You're hammering against the crank's thrust bearing.
I'm not suggesting you hit the damper itself with a mallet! I don't know how the factory did it, but I've seen more than one book (including one by David Vizard) that showed the damper being installed by using a steel mallet and 2x4 or 4x4.
Bob -- installation tool won't work without threaded hole in crank snout. 
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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66cayne
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1802
Reg: 08-06-08
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06-25-12 06:10 AM - Post#2241075
In response to csc
It should not slip on. You need the interference fit. The press/interference fit helps hold the balancer on AND also transmits the harmonics from the crank to the balancer. Did you use the same balancer that fell off? Either your balancer is bad or the crank snout is worn undersized. The retention bolt you installed will keep the balancer from sliding off, but you better check it from time to time. The bolt will also transmit some of the harmonics from the crank to the balancer. Just keep an eye on it.
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models916
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1879
Age: 62
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
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06-25-12 08:23 AM - Post#2241109
In response to csc
Won't work if it just slides on. It's an interference fit. Needs to be hammer or pull with a bolt. You need a new damper. hammering the damper on the crank against the thrust surface of the rear main causes no harm, within reason. Factory manual says big hammer on the non-bolt on dampers.
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csc
Contributor
Posts: 151
Reg: 12-05-10
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06-25-12 03:00 PM - Post#2241210
In response to models916
I used the same balencer that came off. This motor is going to be replaced next spring. I will take my chances with it till then. I dont want to keep dumping money into this motor. I bolted it down with lock tight. Should hold. (crosses fingers)
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csc
Contributor
Posts: 151
Reg: 12-05-10
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06-25-12 05:50 PM - Post#2241261
In response to csc
So after putting back together and hearing run I remembered there was a strange sound I could not locate. Now that it's running I have figured it out. That's the sound of a bad harmonic balancer. Lmfao. So when I replace with a new one do I need to pull the chain cover again? How much can I expect to pay for a new ballencer?
Thanks guys.
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66cayne
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1802
Reg: 08-06-08
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06-26-12 06:12 AM - Post#2241446
In response to csc
You will only need to take off the timing cover if the keys are damaged. Remove the balancer and check the keys. A new balancer is $60-$200 depending upon features. A budget balancer should be fine for your needs. Check the diameter of your balancer and location of the TDC mark to be sure you get the right one.
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models916
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1879
Age: 62
Loc: Addison, IL
Reg: 05-28-10
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06-26-12 06:15 AM - Post#2241447
In response to csc
This is good to go.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Harmonic-Balan cer-Dampe...
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72novaproject
Senior Member
Posts: 3186
Age: 57
Loc: D/FW Texas
Reg: 02-18-03
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06-27-12 05:10 AM - Post#2241798
In response to csc
How would it be pressed back on?
Back in the day a lead mallet was used. It had the mass for a short swing and the soft lead would not peen over the edges of the balancer.
I wonder how many thrust bearings got destroyed and if that is why GM started tapping them?
Steve
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