AmericanPie
Senior Member
Posts: 462
Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
|
06-15-12 10:44 PM - Post#2237698
I’m thinking about adding a power booster to my ’65 Impala SS with drum brakes. At the same time, I’m wondering if this is something that’s such a good idea, and would like some input from other guys with 4-wheel drum cars.
In the early-mid 1960’s before disc brakes become common, many cars were ordered WITHOUT a power booster; evidently a lot of owners actually preferred the “feel” of non-power brakes. Even though they required more effort to stop, some drivers claim they were safer in the sense that it was easier to modulate the braking pressure and more difficult to lock up the wheels in a panic stop.
From what I’ve seen at car shows and in magazines, when restoring their cars many guys with original, drum-equipped early Impalas, Chevelles, etc. have decided AGAINST adding a power booster. Is there a reason for this, beyond wanting to maintain their car’s originality?
I realize of course that a disc conversion would improve braking performance but I prefer to keep my car as original (or at least, as period-correct) as possible.
I’d like to hear from any of you who have made the swap to a booster on a drum-equipped car and how well you like the “upgrade”. I’d also like to hear from owners of a non-power, drum brake car who have decided AGAINST adding a booster, and why you made that decision.
Thanks in advance for any input.
1965 Impala SS 327
1985 BMW 635CSi |
|
|
 jumbojim
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 315
Age: 66
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 09-25-11
|
06-16-12 01:55 AM - Post#2237717
In response to AmericanPie
When I bought my non-boostered 4 drum 69 Camaro I was not happy with the way it stopped. The first thing I did was fitted a power booster and I think it is the best 'mod' I have done. I got the maximum benifit from the minimum effort. I would recomend that you go ahead. If you didn't like it you could take it off.
|
 Carl1962
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 583
Loc: Australia
Reg: 04-01-10
|
06-16-12 02:54 AM - Post#2237720
In response to AmericanPie
I was thinking of doing the same thing to my 62 SS Impala. I can get a cardone 9" booster with the original looking brackets but I don't know about whether I would have needed any more hardware (push rods etc) and this scared me off a bit.
I decided to restore my drums properly with new shoes, cylinders, bearings, a front self adjusting kit and new hoses. The drums were good so I didn't replace them, but I was thinking of getting finned drums if the brakes didn't improve. Well the brakes are now great and pull the car up very fast and straight. I know they'll fade if I drive in heavy traffic or down long hills, but I don't do that very often and I like the feel of the effort it takes to brake. I decided I don't need a booster.
|
bluenozr
Forum Newbie
Posts: 20
Age: 60
Loc: Nova Scotia Canada
Reg: 02-27-12
|
06-16-12 06:24 AM - Post#2237755
In response to AmericanPie
My 65 327 Impala came from the factory with standard non power brakes.I did the conversion to power c/w dual reservoir master cylinder. I have had no problems with it and the dual master cylinder adds to the safety factor Fairly easy conversionand great stopping power. Highly recommendit. Steve.
|
slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 674
Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
|
06-17-12 04:36 PM - Post#2238371
In response to bluenozr
Been doing brakes on cars for around 25 years and have felt virtually almost any combo you could come up with.Nothing at all wrong with a 4 wheel drum brake set up with non power assist,its not the best set up but nothing wrong with it when working properly.
One thing that will annoy you on non power brakes is when you are driving in town and have to hit quite a few stop lights in a row,your calf on your brake leg will be aching for sure.Adding a booster to the same combo makes pedal effort a lot less which is intended so less fatigue on your leg/foot.
I just swapped to frt discs on my 66 non power 4 wheel drum set up. I had the 4 wheel drum brakes adjusted properly and bleed just right and they worked good. Nothing compared to a frt disc/rear drum combo with a booster but works better just the same.
I drove a 67 Impala for years with power assisted 4 wheel drum brakes and never had an issue in regular driving.I had a real stout 408 sb with 4.11 gears and loose 3500 stall,and would only have issues shutting down at the strip or on the highway. The drum brakes heat up pretty good and start to fade away much quicker than discs do.
If you have a chance to add a power booster and arent worried about total 100% restoration on your car then you will surely have a better feeling,better stopping car than you do now.
The only other think I can add is that in 67 all cars were required to have a dual line master cylinder set up with a distribution block as a safety feature if a hydralic leak was encountered. Up to 66 Chevys had a single line set up and upgrading those to a dual line will also be an added feature to your car for safe driving.
Edited by slammed1 on 06-17-12 04:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
 ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3018
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
|
06-18-12 07:21 AM - Post#2238631
In response to slammed1
A couple of other considerations. The brake pedal in power assisted cars is positioned lower than manual brake cars - making the move from the gas to brake pedal easier. I believe also that the M/C and wheel cylinder bores were different between power and manual brake cars.
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
|
|
gdwriter
Member
Posts: 88
Loc: Independence, Oregon
Reg: 12-15-04
|
06-18-12 12:42 PM - Post#2238781
In response to AmericanPie
My '64 Impala did not have power brakes when I bought it, and it stopped fine, but you definitely had to apply considerable pressure. With the conversion to power brakes, there's definitely less effort required, but I have decent feel from the brake pedal, and I think the car stops quicker (I drove the car for three years before making the conversion to power brakes 10 years ago). For all-around drivability, I think it's a worthwhile upgrade.
64 Impala Sport Sedan 327-250 hp with original Rochester 4GC, dual exhaust/THM700R4/Power Steering/Power Brakes/Factory A/C -- everything works! Even the clock!
www.gdwriter.com |
|
AmericanPie
Senior Member
Posts: 462
Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
|
06-18-12 01:08 PM - Post#2238789
In response to ss3964spd
A couple of other considerations. The brake pedal in power assisted cars is positioned lower than manual brake cars - making the move from the gas to brake pedal easier. I believe also that the M/C and wheel cylinder bores were different between power and manual brake cars.
Dan
From what I've read about making the conversion, both manual and power-assisted cars used the same brake pedal arm; the difference is that when you convert to a power booster, the clevis attaches to a different POSITION on the arm. I wasn't aware that they also used different brake arms/pedals.
I also hadn't heard that the wheel cylinders were different. If that's the case, then doing the conversion properly is more involved than I thought.
1965 Impala SS 327
1985 BMW 635CSi |
|
AmericanPie
Senior Member
Posts: 462
Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
|
06-18-12 01:15 PM - Post#2238795
In response to slammed1
The only other think I can add is that in 67 all cars were required to have a dual line master cylinder set up with a distribution block as a safety feature if a hydralic leak was encountered. Up to 66 Chevys had a single line set up and upgrading those to a dual line will also be an added feature to your car for safe driving.
Yes, I'm considering adding the dual-reservoir MC for safety. Normally in the interest of keeping the car all original I wouldn't, but if I upgrade to a booster then it's no longer 100% as-it-came-from-the-facto ry anyway.
Thanks for all the great replies. 
1965 Impala SS 327
1985 BMW 635CSi |
Edited by AmericanPie on 06-18-12 01:16 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
ggyorkos
Forum Newbie
Posts: 2
Reg: 05-11-12
|
06-18-12 01:51 PM - Post#2238811
In response to AmericanPie
I have a 1955 3/4 ton truck with power booster added and it is one of the Best Improvements made. Still have the 4 wheel drums, just added booster and a metering block designed for drums and all works Great. Also got the advantage of dual master unit at the same time....
| 1955 chevy 3600 flatbed... |
|
BB Biscuit
Senior Member
Posts: 424
Loc: Washington
Reg: 03-30-02
|
06-19-12 12:01 AM - Post#2238990
In response to AmericanPie
Not sure if the pictures are going to come through. I added corvette master and a small booster to my 65 and love it. Was pretty easy
| 65 BB biscayne,73 RS Z28,04 2500 ex cab 4X4,67 Nova,84 silverado stepside,72 454 corvette |
Edited by BB Biscuit on 06-19-12 12:06 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
fsc66
Forum Newbie
Posts: 73
Loc:
Reg: 05-05-12
|
06-19-12 05:47 AM - Post#2239038
In response to BB Biscuit
I did it on my 66, not a hard job. There are no wheel cylinder changes, nor pedal changes. You will need a different metal pipe to the brake cylinder or make new bends to your existing. Also a new tee fitting in the manifold to accomodate the vacuum line to the power booster.
Paul
|
ss3964spd
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3018
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
|
06-19-12 07:24 AM - Post#2239076
In response to AmericanPie
From what I've read about making the conversion, both manual and power-assisted cars used the same brake pedal arm; the difference is that when you convert to a power booster, the clevis attaches to a different POSITION on the arm. I wasn't aware that they also used different brake arms/pedals.
I also hadn't heard that the wheel cylinders were different. If that's the case, then doing the conversion properly is more involved than I thought.
Correct on the arm/pedal being the same. Sorry if I lead you to believe otherwise. Just wanted to let you know that the pedal height changes when you go to power brakes.
The M/C and wheel cylinder differences - I'm not completely sure. I am pretty sure, however, that if you ordered the semi-metallic HD brakes then the cylinder bores were different sizes.
Regardless, when I had my first 66 SS convert some 30 years ago it had manual brakes. I found a car in a junk yard and pulled the booster, M/C, and arm to booster rod and added them to my car with no other changes. Worked great.
Dan
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.
|
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
drtyler (4)
