Jac
Contributor
Posts: 188
Loc: Northern PA
Reg: 04-04-07
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06-15-12 11:46 AM - Post#2237456
I cancelled my own signals for 3 yrs. and finally got around to replacing the switch. Within 2 weeks of driving with the new switch it developed this problem where, after a righthand turn, it cancels with just enough force to turn the left blinker on for me.
Just thought I'd see if anyone has had this peculiar problem first before I pull the wheel and try to figure out if it's maladjusted, misaligned or a defective switch. The old worn out switch had very soft action and detent and the new one is pretty soft also.
'63 SW C-10
305 Roller, LT1 Cam, Eddy 500
T5 |
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 Vaughn
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 13637
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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06-15-12 03:03 PM - Post#2237534
In response to Jac
No, I haven't run into that problem before.
But, there are return springs on each side of the switch that could be replaced to get a weaker return force. The springs are round, with a couple of turns of wire in the circular part, and the ends are sort-of pigtails. You could use the springs from your old turn signal switch if you want to.
They do sell the springs in the "Help!" or Dorman section of Autozone or O'Reilly's, but you have to look carefully for them.
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Jac
Contributor
Posts: 188
Loc: Northern PA
Reg: 04-04-07
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06-15-12 08:23 PM - Post#2237649
In response to Vaughn
Thanks Vaughn. It seems odd that this new switch worked OK for the first couple of weeks and suddenly have a too stiff spring. It "feels" almost as if the force to apply the left blinker is too weak to prevent the cancelling right from pushing past the center off position. At any rate it kinda irritates to have to fix my new switch.
I'm not ready to name the vendor...yet. They may very well offer a replacement but I'm not looking forward to fishing the harness in the column again.
'63 SW C-10
305 Roller, LT1 Cam, Eddy 500
T5 |
Edited by Jac on 06-15-12 08:23 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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LGriffin
Member
Posts: 406
Age: 67
Loc: Gateway to Yosemite
Reg: 04-16-04
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06-16-12 08:23 AM - Post#2237795
In response to Jac
I looked at a couple of spare switches I have. There is no metal spring involved. There are two posts on the canceling cam that ride on notched arms of the main switch body. There is an extender off the steering wheel that sits in the canceling cam an actuates the cancel on turning. I'm wondering if that extender is off center. Since the switch is mostly molded plastic one of the arms may not of been molded correctly. I believe there is only one source for our turn signal switches regardless of who it was bought from. Here is the link;
http://www.shee-mar.com/
Contact them and see if this is a known problem.
If you want to check the switch to see if there is any thing obviously wrong, You should be able to do that with out completely removing the switch. There is usually enough slop in the harness to lift it up and remove the cancelling cam. If you do be very, very careful as there are a couple of spring contacts that can be dislodged, or fall out. They put little or no pressure on the cancelling cam, but do make the contact for right and left signal. If there is a problem I can take pictures of one of mine.
Larry
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink.
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Jac
Contributor
Posts: 188
Loc: Northern PA
Reg: 04-04-07
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06-17-12 08:55 PM - Post#2238521
In response to LGriffin
Thanks Larry, I guess it's time for exploratory surgery to see if anything is out of wack. When I was shopping for this switch most vendors had one for around $50 for my `63 but I seem to remember one offered a second option for $90 billed as OEM quality.
'63 SW C-10
305 Roller, LT1 Cam, Eddy 500
T5 |
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