collins toy
Contributor
Posts: 188
Loc: cleveland OH
Reg: 06-06-10
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05-16-12 10:17 AM - Post#2226538
Hey guys I have a question. I am almost at the point to where I can start applying some Duraglass over my welds. Problem is I get very limited time to do work on the car....i.e. might get couple of hours per week... so I might be able to get the Duraglass down but it may be a few days later before I get the chance to do anything else...so if I put the Duraglass down what should I down next to keep anything from doing damage or moisture from messing things up? I want to put the glass down then put some filler over the glass but im worried that I may have too much of a window between the glass and filler....is this even something I should be concerned about?
Thanks
Rick
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 wagonman100
Super Senior Member
Posts: 12952
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
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05-16-12 05:27 PM - Post#2226636
In response to collins toy
If the area where you are doing the work doesn't have a moisture problem, you should be fine leaving the Duraglass sit. In other words, if you don't get rust from bare metal sitting in the area, you should be okay. If you do have a problem, then you can spray a coat of primer over it until you get back to it and just grind or sand it off when you get back to work on it.
As for putting filler over the Duraglass, you can apply filler directly over the Duraglass after you grind it or sand it down. I usually grind the Duraglass and then apply filler. It doesn't matter how long it sits, it is a mechanical bond (the tooth from grinding or sanding) between the filler and the Duraglass.
Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.
1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon |
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brad_bb
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4190
Loc: Joliet, IL.
Reg: 07-13-01
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05-22-12 10:02 PM - Post#2228832
In response to wagonman100
How have you prepped your welds. Welding starts the oxidation process. You may not see it at first, but in time it will start rusting more than the non-welded area. After grinding my weld if that is needed, I then metal prep/neutralize the weld area with a mild phosphoric acid solution. I apply with a maroon scotchbrite pad and scrub where needed. Then rinse with clean water and blow dry quickly with compressed air.
Then you are ready to apply primer, or a filler that can be applied directly to metal. If you have more than 1/16th of an inch to fill in any area, provided you cannot hammer and dolly the area out, I use All-Metal filler. It's ground aluminum based and will have expantion rate closer to the steel panel. Don't ever let any filler sit for too long before sanding. It can get hard as a rock with too much time. I always block it out the same day if possible and have it ready for the next coating.
If you had to go away for a week or more, I'd coat the bare metal in epoxy sealer primer with fast catalyst(better sanding characteristics).
| If someone else can design it, I sure as heck can figure out how to fix it! |
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collins toy
Contributor
Posts: 188
Loc: cleveland OH
Reg: 06-06-10
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05-24-12 06:17 PM - Post#2229443
In response to brad_bb
Guys thanks for the response....I usually get about once a week to work on things and sometimes not for long even when i do get to do it. Brad... i didnt do any prep on the welds but i now know that i should. Is the acid you speak of sold ready to go or under a certain name that i should look for? and I take it that if i use it i should do it when i know i have time to put my filler over it right away?
thanks again
Rick
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brad_bb
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4190
Loc: Joliet, IL.
Reg: 07-13-01
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06-01-12 11:48 PM - Post#2232449
In response to collins toy
I use PPG DX579 or 520. You must dilute it with water per the directions. Most paint lines have their own phosphoric acid "metal prep".
Yes, you need to seal it so it doesn't start rusting. You can just shoot it with epoxy sealer primer with fast catalyst. Then if a week goes by, scuff the sealer and you can apply your filler over that.
| If someone else can design it, I sure as heck can figure out how to fix it! |
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 Vista Cruiser
Moderator
Posts: 4439
Age: 44
Loc: Erie Canal
Reg: 10-01-99
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06-02-12 01:00 PM - Post#2232588
In response to brad_bb
Yes. Clean the welds as good as you can.
And remember, the backside needs to be sealed too. Again, as good as you can.
Kenney AKA Blizzardboy
09 Impala SS....82 T/A.........72 Vista Cruiser
12 Cruze....98 Riviera...07 C-1500
68 Firebird
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57dood
Contributor
Posts: 219
Loc: Ontario
Reg: 08-11-05
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06-21-12 04:46 AM - Post#2239731
In response to Vista Cruiser
Curious on what filler you r using over glass?back in the day it always lifted after a year or so .
| Gitter Done,Cant drive 55 |
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collins toy
Contributor
Posts: 188
Loc: cleveland OH
Reg: 06-06-10
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06-22-12 10:31 PM - Post#2240385
In response to 57dood
Was thinkin of doing Rage over the glass...but im not totally set on that...if u or anyone else has suggestion of what u have had success with im very open to advice
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