j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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06-15-12 03:03 PM - Post#2237532
In response to nicke
Okay, thank you!
( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ywmfnz7sD98 ) 
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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06-15-12 03:38 PM - Post#2237547
In response to j.w.
Is there a way to get drum brakes down (just for cleaning/painting) without opening the diff? Maybe they have an inner and outer shaft and can be pulled?
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slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 676
Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
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06-15-12 05:10 PM - Post#2237584
In response to j.w.
Looks like you did a good job on placing your lower shock mounts back in place. The only way to get the brake backing plates off is to remove the axles which means going into the rear diff cover and removing the center pin and c clips sop the axles can be removed then the backing plates.
What I would do is just remove the rear brakes and hardware enough to get the backing plates bare so you can do some cleaning,then re-assemble the brakes afterwards.
Your project is coming right along,sorry I couldnt get you the needed parts soon enough,we tried though.
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1595
Reg: 12-29-02
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06-16-12 09:25 AM - Post#2237809
In response to j.w.
That axle is looking pretty nice compared to how it started.
Pulling the cover to remove the pin and axles really isn't that hard. You probably should do it anyways just to make sure the rear-end is healthy and to change the oil in the diff. Once the cover is off, you remove a small bolt and then pull the pin out of the middle of the differential. With the pin out, you can push the axles in a bit and take off the c-clips so they'll pull-out. just be a little careful the gears in the middle of the differential don't rotate and fall-out. Don't spin the diff with it apart and you could temporarily stick the pin back in until ready to re-assemble. You can just use black gasket maker RTV to put the cover back on.
As for the engine, will they actually check the engine block casting numbers? You could put period correct looking valve covers with the 283 labels on them and hope it passes. Same idea with painting an aftermarket aluminum intake orange.
Edited by 65_Impala on 06-16-12 09:28 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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06-16-12 02:45 PM - Post#2237921
In response to 65_Impala
Cheers!
I cut of their spring mounts yesterday and welded shock mounts back to where they belong. They might be something between 1/4" and 1/2" shorter compared to the stock ones. I had to bed them in a little. Tried my best to make it look good again.
I didn't want to open the diff as I don't have a gasket for it. Do you think "liquid gasket stuff" is enough to get it try again after opening it? Which oil (and how much) belongs into the diff? I lost a little bit oil when the axel was turned around. There seems to be a air vent or something.
I started welding the body today (rocker panels/floor). This will take some more days of work. But as my parts will not arrive before July 15. I can take myself the time I need to do a good job on that.
A guy from Berlin who bought himself a 51 pickup told me that they didn't know anything about the engines. An other guy from munich told me that they checked the engine casting numbers and even the carburetor. So it seems to depend pretty much on which inspector you get.
What I try to find out now is if they list all engines in the data sheet that I have to get them. If there are no engines listed they won't be able to tell if it's an original one, I think.
Which was the biggest stock engine that has been available in the 66 base version and how much HP had it?
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 427SS65
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 12275
Age: 67
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
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06-16-12 09:16 PM - Post#2238066
In response to j.w.
Takes about 2 to 2-1/2 quarts (1.9 to 2.4 liters) of 75-90 SAE oil. If you have Positraction, add one bottle of GM Posi lube. You just fill it with a flexible hose until the level is right below the fill hole.
Make sure the vent is clean and functioning. Keeps pressure out of the rear end when it gets hot.
I have heard some people use RTV silicone to seal the cover, but I don't trust it. If you are going down the Autobahn, and the fluid leaks out, poof. No rear end!
My Son just left to back to Stuttgart after three weeks here on vacation. I could have sent a gasket for you with him!
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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06-18-12 12:54 AM - Post#2238561
In response to 427SS65
Okay, thank you!! 
It looks like mine is sealed by silicone currently (probably in addition to a gasket?), but I agree that this isnt a good way to do it. I'll try to clean it without opening until I got a new gasket for that.
Is this also the same oil that belongs into the transmission?
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 aghaga
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1489
Age: 58
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
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06-18-12 05:24 AM - Post#2238592
In response to j.w.
SAE 90 wt. gear oil
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427SS65
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 12275
Age: 67
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
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06-18-12 07:25 AM - Post#2238636
In response to j.w.
Yes, it's the same.
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novice66
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1113
Age: 29
Loc: san antonio,tx
Reg: 05-06-07
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06-18-12 07:48 PM - Post#2238941
In response to 427SS65
Maybe I missed something but gear oil and tranny oil are not the same.
| <a href="http://www.picturetrail.com/uid9870823" target="_blank"><B& gt;Visit My Trail</B></a> |
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1595
Reg: 12-29-02
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06-18-12 08:11 PM - Post#2238947
In response to j.w.
I've put a few covers on with gasket maker and no leaks. The diff oil is not the same as the trans oil. I agree use SAE90 in the diff. I believe you posted TH350 trans and that would take Dexron III. If you're lucky enough to have a posi in the diff then put in oil with posi clutch additive or use a seperate bottle of additive.
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leon phelps
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3020
Loc: Croydon Manor, PA
Reg: 06-04-05
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06-19-12 06:22 AM - Post#2239057
In response to 65_Impala
are we sure he does not have a manual trans? then maybe the oil is the same.
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427SS65
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 12275
Age: 67
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
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06-19-12 09:45 AM - Post#2239111
In response to leon phelps
You are correct Leon and Isaac!
DO NOT USE SAE 90 in your automatic transmission! Use automatic transmission fluid!
Use SAE90 in your differential.
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1595
Reg: 12-29-02
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06-19-12 03:42 PM - Post#2239216
In response to leon phelps
First post has a link to a TH350 trans pic Leon.
Edited by 65_Impala on 06-19-12 03:42 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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07-28-12 01:06 PM - Post#2253028
In response to 65_Impala
Okay, thank you guys! Meanwhile I did a lot of welding work at the body and had some bad surprises.
I cleaned some cast parts today from rust and old paint. I'd like to have them unpainted in a stock-like look. Do you have any suggestions how to protect cast parts from rust and oxidation? Maybe some of you have any experience with clear coat for protection?
Is this steering rod bent or should it really look that way? The other one is straight. Somehow I think it was bent.. maybe because they used some wrong spindles.
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427SS65
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member & Moderator
Posts: 12275
Age: 67
Loc: St. Louis, MO
Reg: 12-11-03
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07-28-12 02:31 PM - Post#2253047
In response to j.w.
Once you get them degreased and the color you want, you can shoot them with a semi-gloss or flat finish clear coating. They will remain the forged iron look for a long time.
They must be "squeaky" clean before painting!
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 ed72073
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 422
Age: 39
Loc: Chicago
Reg: 12-08-10
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07-28-12 10:06 PM - Post#2253206
In response to j.w.
If you want to keep it bare and protect it try a product called Sharkhide, it works pretty good but you will need to reapply it every now and then.
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 jumbojim
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 315
Age: 66
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 09-25-11
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07-28-12 10:53 PM - Post#2253214
In response to j.w.
Steering rod is bent. Jim
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65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1595
Reg: 12-29-02
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07-30-12 03:12 PM - Post#2253848
In response to j.w.
I agree with Jim, it's bent.
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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08-02-12 02:28 PM - Post#2255029
In response to aghaga
Okay, thank you!! I have used clear coat to protect them..they look really good now!
The metal tubing size front to rear is 1/4" while 3/16" is used accross the front and rear axle.
I want to buy new brake lines tomorrow. Are these sizes also okay if I have a front side disc brake conversion kit?
Here are some current pictures
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305c1500ext
Member
Posts: 133
Loc: Auckland,NEW ZEALAND
Reg: 10-23-06
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08-02-12 03:44 PM - Post#2255051
In response to j.w.
Looking Good.Now is the time to make sure your heater core does not leak!
Philip
Motorsport is GOOD!
1996 c1500 305 vortec.1st truck so far!350 crate motor is in....had to rebuild it first!!
1986 mazda 323 turbo road race car 400hp.
598 bbc in 56 chev drag car 8.62 second 1/4 mile
1965 chev impala sedan, 283 + 350 trans
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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08-14-12 02:52 PM - Post#2259242
In response to 305c1500ext
Hey!
thats right. I'll check it before everything is installed again.
I found this huge thrust washers within my rear end bushing kit.
Do you have any idea of where to install them? I can't imagine where they could make any sense. There are also two of the "big" bushings to much.. 
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aghaga
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1489
Age: 58
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
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08-14-12 03:53 PM - Post#2259267
In response to j.w.
These go in the rear upper control arms. To install them you gut the rubber bushings from the steel sleeves and then press the steel sleeves into the control arm until the flange bottoms out. The bushing insert installs on the flanged side and the larger poly sleeve on the other.
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305c1500ext
Member
Posts: 133
Loc: Auckland,NEW ZEALAND
Reg: 10-23-06
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08-14-12 03:55 PM - Post#2259269
In response to j.w.
If you mean the two big bushes in the front of your photo..sorry i cannot help as i have yet to do that on my `65`.Is the kit you brought for a 3 link arm or 4 link arm rear end?Maybe just extras??
Philip
Motorsport is GOOD!
1996 c1500 305 vortec.1st truck so far!350 crate motor is in....had to rebuild it first!!
1986 mazda 323 turbo road race car 400hp.
598 bbc in 56 chev drag car 8.62 second 1/4 mile
1965 chev impala sedan, 283 + 350 trans
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aghaga
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1489
Age: 58
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
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08-14-12 03:57 PM - Post#2259272
In response to aghaga
You do not remove the orginal outer steel sleeve from the control arm. Sandblast or wire brush it clean before pressing further into the arm.
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SS_in_Seattle
"4th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 1409
Reg: 05-08-03
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08-14-12 07:03 PM - Post#2259349
In response to j.w.
Do you have a rod to replace the bent steering rod?
Greg
1965 Impala SS L78
1966 Impala SS Convertible
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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08-15-12 02:27 AM - Post#2259465
In response to SS_in_Seattle
rThanks aghaga, this could make sense! What are they trying to reach by doing it that way instead of replacing just the rubber portion of the bushing?
I removed the outer steel sleeves when I hadn't my parts yet as I thought there would come some new along with the kit. One of the small rear lower control arm steel sleeves has been damaged by doing that. I couldn't find a new one so far on the internet. Can you give me a hint for that?
Greg.. I'm not yet having a new tie rod. Hopefully I could order it together with the steel sleeve somewhere to save shipping costs.
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aghaga
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1489
Age: 58
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
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08-15-12 06:54 AM - Post#2259519
In response to j.w.
The poly bushing does not adhere to the sleeve as the orginal rubber bushing did. The additional poly part is used to position the control arm preventing side-to-side movement. To remove the rubber from the bushings drill multiple holes through the rubber to relax it. Next grab the bolt sleeve and twist it, breaking it's rubber bond, to remove. The remaining rubber should easly be removed. Clean all surfaces that the poly will contact and smooth with sandpaper. Any surface that the poly contacts with metal must have a film of the clear silicon lubricant supplied with the bushings. If the damaged steel sleeve does not have irregularities where the poly contacts it still may be used. There is a step on the O.D. that will press tighter into the control arm and as mentioned before the two part poly bushings will keep it located.
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j.w.
Forum Newbie
Posts: 68
Loc: Saarbrücken / Germany
Reg: 02-14-12
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08-15-12 09:49 AM - Post#2259585
In response to aghaga
Okay, thank you!! 
I removed the rubber portion from all upper and lower front and rear end control arms + panhard bar today and pushed the rear upper steel sleeves through. Looks good. Before I install the new bushings I'll have to clean, prime and paint the parts..I'll do that on the weekend. I hope the 4 silicon tubes will be enough for the inner and outer sides of all the bushings?
I just noticed, that they welded in another bracket for the front upper ball joint which I wanted to reuse. It looked pretty new and was in good condition. Too bad.. its not the same as the stock ball joint (I should have thought of this because of the changed spindles)
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aghaga
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1489
Age: 58
Loc: Altavista, Va.
Reg: 07-05-08
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08-15-12 10:02 AM - Post#2259590
In response to j.w.
Save some lube for the inside contact areas on the mounting brackets, frame and axle.
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