whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 441
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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 05-10-12 06:12 PM - Post#2224604
well I have spent the last 3.5 hours trying to reinstall the manifold on my 47 Fleetline got the gaskets in place the steel rings in the head for the intake (with a small bevel on the outer edge facing intake) plenty of room to work with out any obstructions can not get the steel rings started into the intake Have tapped rather briskly on the intake at the rings. Now from the experts from this site where am I going wrong. Sure would like to fire that Mutha up tommorrow
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 Gene_Schneider
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10512
Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
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05-10-12 07:04 PM - Post#2224631
In response to whiskey1954
If you have not done so disconnect the exhaust pipe so the manifolds can be tweeked around better.
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1934 Master sedan
1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan
1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide
1957 Nomad 283 PG
1963 Corvair Convertible |
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 391
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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05-10-12 07:50 PM - Post#2224649
In response to whiskey1954
I had to change the exhaust manifold on my 48 a while back - so I went through this. The first time I got the manifolds back on, I had vacuum leaks galore. Had to start over. The second time, she went togehter perfect. First of all - clean the pockets on the intake manifold and head good where the rings fit. Then make sure all your rings fit both both the head and manifold OK. Then the 4 bolts that hold the intake to exhaust manifold in the center have to be loose. So I cleaned the joint between them up good, buttered both sides and the new gasket up with spray on copper gasket sealer, and loosely assembled them. Then I coated my new manifold gasket with copper gasket sealer, put the rings in the head, and put the gasket on. I gently tapped each ring with a block of wood and a hammer to make sure they seated all the way in. Next, I applied the copper gasket sealer to the gasket surfaces on both manifolds, and put the assembly on the engine - working the rings into the intake manifold ports. Then I put on all the fasterners that hold the manifolds on the engine, and, evenly tightened them until they were just snug. Then I tightened up the 4 bolts that hold the 2 manifolds together in the center. Finally I snugged down all the fasterners that hold the manifolds to the engine. Something to watch - soak the fasteners that hold the manifolds together in the center with PV Blaster good, or, they'll break off. Go easy with it. I broke off one of mine and had to drill it out and retap one of the bolt holes. When I put the new bolts and nuts on for the center, I buttered up the threads good with neverseize as well. Anyway after I got everything back together the second time, I had no leaks - either vacuum or exhaust Another thing - while you've got the two manifolds separated - that's the time to work on your heat riser shaft and paddle - get them loosened up, and working freely. After I got mine free, my themostatic spring was gone, so I wrapped wire around the shaft where the spring goes to hold it in the open position - no heat to carb. This eliminated a bad hot restart problem my car had. My carb now runs cool, and, doesn't boil all the fuel out of bowl when I park her after a long drive. One of these days I'll buy a new themostatic spring and install it, but, I only drive her in warm weather, so, it's not a pressing need.
Hope this helps:
Oldengineer
Edited by Oldengineer on 05-10-12 07:56 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 441
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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05-11-12 04:35 AM - Post#2224735
In response to Gene_Schneider
Gene disconnected and completely out of the way
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 441
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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05-11-12 12:00 PM - Post#2224864
In response to Oldengineer
thanks for the help OE I noticed the bolts holding the manifolds together were broken but was surprised to see that there was nothing left in the intake since they reached through the bosses that hold them I still cannot figure why they are like that since it looks as if they have never been seperated wish me luck!!!!!
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 391
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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05-11-12 07:31 PM - Post#2224994
In response to whiskey1954
Good luck - hopefully you'll be able to get the other 2 bolts out as well. On my car, I had to replace my original exhaust manifold. A previous owner had put a home made dual exhaust set-up on the car. To do that, some one cut a hole in the exhaust manifold in front of the original opening and welded on a foot long piece of inch and a half water pipe. Then he welded pieces of various shapes of exhaust pipe to that to connect it to a second exhaust system on the other side of the car. Welded solid like it was, the joints had started to crack apart. Took me several hours with a sawzall to cut it in 4 places to get the mess off the car. I wondered why the car didn't seem to run right with the dual setup as well. I found out when I got the buggered up exhaust manifold off. Whoever did it, left the metal slug from the hole inside the exhaust manifold and it had mostly blocked the original downpipe hole. The car runs way better now - with a single exhaust system. If you end up having to drill and tap the holes, be sure and get a good drill bit and tap.
Regards:
Oldengineer
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 441
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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05-12-12 04:44 AM - Post#2225067
In response to Oldengineer
Oe I think you misunderstood the bolt deal they were not broken off in the manifold it was as if they had been repurposed from some thing else but are the original bolts they all came out clean have the manifold ready to go back on but still having a fight I am now wondering if I need to get a new set of steel rings even though they came out they do not want to go back in I have tried from the intake side and the head side even to the point of beveling the edge just a hair still swinging
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 391
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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05-12-12 09:24 AM - Post#2225135
In response to whiskey1954
Ok - I'm with you now. I don't understand the problem with the metal rings. All I had to do was gently squeeze mine, and, they slid right in. Is it possible somebody put a set of rings for a 235 in your engine - they're larger then the ones for a 216. I've even see sets for sale on the internet that were "stepped" so you could put 216 manifolds on a 235, or, vice-versa. If, when you go to insert them, and you've squeezed them until the split line gap is closed, you're probably dealing with a set for the larger engine. Other than buying a correct set, you might try making the split line gap on yours a little wider with a Dremel tool or a file, so you can squeeze them a bit smaller in diameter when you go to insert them.
REgards:
Oldengineer
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 441
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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05-13-12 04:11 PM - Post#2225541
In response to Oldengineer
Thanks OE finally figured out to use the bolts in sequence to pull manifold into place very slowly fit perfect no leaks put on rebuilt carb and she runs like a champ thanks for the guidance in this area and will retain this info until my batteries go dead
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Oldengineer
Contributor
Posts: 391
Loc: Cross Lanes, WV
Reg: 08-16-10
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05-13-12 06:43 PM - Post#2225604
In response to whiskey1954
Great - glad you got it together. Mine didn't put up as much fight.
As you can see from my recent post - I'm trying to get advice on my transmission mount.
Regards:
Oldengineer
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 Keith_Knox
Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2717
Age: 71
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
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05-13-12 09:33 PM - Post#2225662
In response to whiskey1954
Good to hear. Slow and easy is a good strategy.
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010.
1996 Chevy Monte Carlo
2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab
2013 F150 Crew Cab |
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