TedJ
Forum Newbie
Posts: 9
Loc: Seattle, WA
Reg: 09-06-07
|
05-08-12 04:23 PM - Post#2223894
I've replaced the original 265 in my 56 Nomad with a 350 Stroker. Since the temp sending unit in the original wouldn't fit the new manifold I purchased a new, but doesn't seem to work. My question is does anyone know how to debug? Should I be able to place a meter on the send unit post and get a reading? (even set and the lowest scale on my meter of .25v I'm not getting anything). Also should I be able to supply some current to the temp guage wire and see the guage needle move (like a flashlight battery or some such). Thanks in advance for any help.
TedJ
Ted J - Seattle, WA
'56 Nomad
|
Edited by TedJ on 05-08-12 04:29 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388

Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
|
05-08-12 05:35 PM - Post#2223930
In response to TedJ
You should have some resistance between the sender terminal and ground with the temp gauge wire disconnected. With ignition off and wire removed, a typical sender will be in the 1000-1200 ohm range at 100 degrees and a maybe 100-200 ohms at 200 degrees.
Also, make sure you have continuity (~zero ohms) between the base of the sender and the block. If not, teflon tape may be keeping the sender from being grounded.
Wiring path is 12v (IGN or ACC) -> gauge terminal -> gauge internals -> gauge terminal -> sender -> ground. The sender's resistance determines current through the circuit and, therefore, how much the gauge needle moves. So to answer your question, yes, you should see some voltage on the sender terminal. Best place to start is by looking at voltage on both gauge terminals.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
|
Edited by MikeB on 05-08-12 05:45 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
acardon
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 9455

Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
|
05-08-12 05:37 PM - Post#2223932
In response to TedJ
You can ground the temp sender wire to the block and the gauge should go all the way to hot. With the wire disconnected, the gauge should go to cold. The ONLY sender I have heard that will work on the 56 gauge is a Airtex Wells 1T1063. The sender HAS to match the gauge and 57 and later senders are different from the 56 sender. Some of the vendors have the correct 56 senders and some sub the 57 sender.
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
|
|
MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388

Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
|
05-08-12 06:32 PM - Post#2223962
In response to acardon
Don, that is sure a lot easier way to test!
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
|
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|