2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
|
05-06-12 07:54 AM - Post#2223055
My son and I began wire wheeling the interior of my 50 yesterday. We have basically four levels of metal quality:
1. Slight rust through; mostly pin hole size.
2. Serious pitting, but strong enough to stand on.
3. Light surface rust; comes right off.
4. No rust at all and the factory paint is still tough as nails and actually quite hard to remove if you attempt it.
For #1, I taught myself my first fiberglass/resin repair yesterday and it ended up quite nice--hard as a rock!
For #2, I wire aggressively, but not to the point of creating pinholes; I have no money for body panel replacement right now. My theory is encapsulate and stop the rust by making it air tight under and over; then come back and replace metal when I am financially able.
For #3, it cleans off real nice and the paint comes right with it since it has been compromised already.
For #4 though, CAN I JUST LEAVE PAINT WITH A LIGHT SCUFF FOR ADHERENCE? I'm gonna go through a lot of wheels for this TOUGH stuff to come off and for what reason? It's still doing it's job after all these years. Thanks for your help and support so far!
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
 50hotrod
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 366
Age: 56
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
|
05-06-12 10:29 AM - Post#2223103
In response to 2ndtime50guy
If the old paint is good just scuff the surface with a scotch bright pad, prime and paint over it.
You must remove the old paint anywhere you apply a fiberglass patch.
Well, you know what's wrong with the world today
People done gone and put their Bible's away
They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land
"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels
|
|
prowler
Contributor
Posts: 199
Loc: Port Alberni B.C.
Reg: 01-15-12
|
05-06-12 10:37 AM - Post#2223106
In response to 50hotrod
what did you patch with the glass? Floor? Thinking about doing the same thing...
|
2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
|
05-06-12 11:41 AM - Post#2223125
In response to prowler
I patched a small 3x3 inch area on the toe kick, just under the headlamp bright switch. There were maybe 4-5 little pin holes that developed as I was wire wheeling it. Its still pretty stong, but I didn't want to take any risks. The patch was about 4x4 inches and it's nice and hard. I need to get up under it to do the same and it is in a really tough spot to reach. Not sure how I'm gonna do that one...
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
|
 rrausch
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 9707
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
|
05-06-12 12:10 PM - Post#2223133
In response to 2ndtime50guy
When I was doing my car I would treat all the rusty areas with this stuff. Then when it dried I'd prime it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer then regular primer and then topcoat.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.
|
|
2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
|
05-07-12 02:24 PM - Post#2223487
In response to rrausch
Here are some progress pics. Front seat floor, toe kick, and firewall are done. I'm doing this in quadrants, so the back half hasn't been wire wheeled, repaired, sealed, or obviously primed yet. I'm using a good truck bed liner out of cans. Sorry POR 15 fans, it just sounded a little too intimidating for my current skill set. The floor is still very strong, so I didn't feel the need to go with the industry standard and end up with a mess on my hands that I wouldn't be able to fix if I screwed up. This can all be removed with a wire wheel later if needed. It will also get an under coat this summer when I have the chance to get it up on a rack.
By secondtime50guy at 2012-05-07
By secondtime50guy at 2012-05-07
By secondtime50guy at 2012-05-07
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
|
kool53
Member
Posts: 699
Loc: Mukwonago, WI
Reg: 06-18-04
|
05-07-12 03:32 PM - Post#2223500
In response to 2ndtime50guy
I know you said you were going to repair it correctly down the road, but don't expect too much out of a single part bed liner in a spray can. Unless it's a two part mixed product you're getting little more than thick spray paint.
|
 Dean50
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 684
Loc: Michigan
Reg: 01-02-07
|
05-07-12 04:30 PM - Post#2223527
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Floors look really solid.
|
usmile4
"6th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3081
Age: 66
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
|
05-07-12 04:52 PM - Post#2223538
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Your floors look very nice.
Don't be intimidated by POR-15. If you can use the spray on bed liner you can do the POR-15. I had "0" experience when I first used it. The bed liner is just a paint. If you have any rust under it (even if you have brushed it clean) it could just keep on rusting. But with the POR-15, it will encapsulate any rust (you don't have to get it all off) so it will stop the rust from coming back. After you get padding and carpet down on top of your floors, and you climb in with wet shoes, the moisture will soak down to the floor and your rust will start again.
You said you would "do it right down the road" why duplicate all of your work? Putting on POR-15 is just like brushing on paint.
Bill Gommel
49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end. |
|
2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
|
05-07-12 05:09 PM - Post#2223545
In response to usmile4
Thanks guys. The floors are very solid. My apprehension about using the POR 15 is not just about the application, it's about the prep work. I read here on this website that the material can be very unforgiving if you don't do it right. Another thing I didn't mention is time. I had also read on here that the material doesn't keep long before it hardens and I am only able to do a little bit here and there. If that stuff is $60 a can or whatever I had heard and we "cook" a can, (my father-in-law is a paint contractor and accidentally mistimed a can of epoxy flooring recently) I could be out some money. I figured if he's got 30 years experience and he blew it, what could happen to me, lol? I appreciate everything you guys are saying, I'm just a big chicken sometimes. I might try to give it a shot for the back half and the trunk. 
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
|
Cruzin Okie
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 565
Loc: Jay, Oklahoma
Reg: 10-26-11
|
05-07-12 09:02 PM - Post#2223631
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Looking goooooooooodddddd!
Johnnie
1950 styleline deluxe sports coupe, 350 cid, TH 400, nova rear end. Gen IV Vintage air.
John 3:16
|
|
usmile4
"6th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3081
Age: 66
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
|
05-07-12 09:23 PM - Post#2223638
In response to Cruzin Okie
I usually order the small cans and then try to use them up in a couple of days. After i open them up I put plastic wrap over the top before I put the top back on to help seal all of the edges.
As for prep...your prep of wire brushing the loose stuff would be fine. POR-15 is made to work with the rust so you don't want to remove all of the rust...just the loose stuff. If you are working on a frame or some part that has a lot of oil and grease on it, you would need to use a degreaser on that but you need to do that with any paint.
In a post recently, on member says he pokes a hole in the bottom of the can and lets some run out and then seals up the hole with a screw...I might try that next time.
Bill Gommel
49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end. |
|
2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
|
05-08-12 02:50 AM - Post#2223663
In response to usmile4
Thanks Bill, that sounds more reassuring if I can make sure the can doesn't dry up. How far will a quart go? Would it do the next half of the floor you think?
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
|
usmile4
"6th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3081
Age: 66
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
|
05-08-12 06:09 AM - Post#2223708
In response to 2ndtime50guy
A quart will last you a long time. When I have used it in the past I assemble some small parts that I want to eventually paint with it also, Then I pour out an amount into a spastic cup and paint from that. I do the big area I'm working on and after the first coat is on I use up the extra on the small parts. If I have still some left in the cup I clean it out by brushing it on areas like insides of doors, areas in trunk, etc to use it all up.
That's why I usually buy the pints...it's more expensive in the long haul but that way I don't have a partial can when I'm done. I have gotten the box of 6 pints I think online. I usually get mostly black but lately I have used the silver where I want to fill pin holes as I read somewhere that the silver has a filler in it and I do believe it is thicker.
Bill Gommel
49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end. |
|
OldDad
Senior Member
Posts: 1849
Age: 69
Loc: The Great NorthWest
Reg: 06-06-04
|
05-08-12 11:15 AM - Post#2223804
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Thanks guys. The floors are very solid. My apprehension about using the POR 15 is not just about the application, it's about the prep work. I read here on this website that the material can be very unforgiving if you don't do it right. Another thing I didn't mention is time. I had also read on here that the material doesn't keep long before it hardens and I am only able to do a little bit here and there. If that stuff is $60 a can or whatever I had heard and we "cook" a can, (my father-in-law is a paint contractor and accidentally mistimed a can of epoxy flooring recently) I could be out some money. I figured if he's got 30 years experience and he blew it, what could happen to me, lol? I appreciate everything you guys are saying, I'm just a big chicken sometimes. I might try to give it a shot for the back half and the trunk.
Here's how I keep my expensive Por-15 from drying up between jobs. Both cans are about 5 years old and I still use small amounts from time to time. The roofing screws are cheap, you can put 2 screws in the top to speed the amount comming out of the can if you choose for larger jobs.
 
The S.O.B. from the factory...
71 1/2 ton, 64 Chevelle SS, 57 2dr Hardtop, 57 2dr Sedan, 57 Corvette, 52 2dr Hardtop, 52 2dr Sedan, and now a 49 Plymouth Coupe |
|
2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
|
05-08-12 04:44 PM - Post#2223906
In response to OldDad
Thanks guys for the advice guys! I'll probably pick up a quart (after the next paycheck, lol).
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
|
kool53
Member
Posts: 699
Loc: Mukwonago, WI
Reg: 06-18-04
|
05-08-12 07:53 PM - Post#2223992
In response to 2ndtime50guy
Don't pour it out like you would normal paint. Instead I dip it out with a Dixie cup. Once you get it in the rim of the can and replace the lid, it will practically weld that lid to the can. I once had to cut the can open(wasn't smart enough to think of that screw idea!) to get the rest out. Luckily, I had enough ready to paint that I used it up.That screw idea is pretty cool, I'll have to try that.
|
 Tgoss
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 136
Loc: Brunswick Georgia, USA
Reg: 02-08-05
|
05-08-12 09:42 PM - Post#2224022
In response to kool53
I use a sheet metal screw through the lid to puncture it and to reseal the can. There is enough POR-15 residue to seal the screw to the can. I have a quart can of POR-15 that I have been using for the last six months. Just remove the screw, turn the can upside down and squeeze slightly to dispense and replace the screw. It works for me and lasts a long time.
|
2ndtime50guy
Contributor
Posts: 425
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
|
05-15-12 02:06 PM - Post#2226238
In response to Tgoss
Well, here we go! I just ordered a quart of semi-gloss black POR 15 off of Eastwood's website! Wish me luck. Hopefully it will get here by Saturday!
| I drove a '50 from the day I got my license thru college! Sadly, we sold it when I got married. I recently got the chance to buy the same car back from the man I sold it to; but the deal fell through and now I own a nicer one: 4 Dr Styleline Deluxe! |
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
drtyler (4)
