ARKAR
Contributor
Posts: 580
Loc: Arkansas
Reg: 01-26-09
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05-01-12 05:15 PM - Post#2221274
In response to Joker63
Just a suggestion how about adding some shims under the radiator suuport to bring it up
You have to be careful when doing that. Your body lines will be off if you raise it much. When the core support is raised, so are the front of the fenders.
Give me a minute and I'll look on my car, but I think your crossmember is mounted correctly.
Keith
Edited by ARKAR on 05-01-12 05:16 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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ARKAR
Contributor
Posts: 580
Loc: Arkansas
Reg: 01-26-09
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05-01-12 06:04 PM - Post#2221296
In response to ARKAR
Ok, looked at my crossmember, my car has is a manual tranny too. Mine is mounted using the bottom holes also and I'm pretty sure it is correct. The crossmember is tapered also. The thicker flange should go to the front, with the thinner to the rear.
Keith
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 turbo38s10
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 653
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
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05-01-12 06:40 PM - Post#2221311
In response to ARKAR
I was looking at your pictures again and I think you definetely have the bolts in the wrong holes. They appear as though they should be in the middle hole. Take a look in the manuals sticky at the 64 manual body section 14 page 108 and you'll see what I mean.
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fander
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12
Loc: South Dakota
Reg: 04-28-12
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05-01-12 08:06 PM - Post#2221356
In response to kingkreeton
My 62 with a 327 and 4 speed uses the bottom holes.
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kingkreeton
Contributor
Posts: 458
Loc: Wilmington NC
Reg: 04-15-11
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05-02-12 02:10 AM - Post#2221407
In response to turbo38s10
I was looking at your pictures again and I think you definetely have the bolts in the wrong holes. They appear as though they should be in the middle hole. Take a look in the manuals sticky at the 64 manual body section 14 page 108 and you'll see what I mean.
You are right, the picture does show the shroud using the second hole in the shroud. I initially installed it that way but I did not think it looked correct. It seemed to put the shroud top above the radiator cap and the top radiator hose laying directly on the shroud. Then again, I did have it upside down at the time. Can someone post a picture of how high their shroud comes up above the radiator cap? Is everyone else using the 2nd hole at the top and the bottom hole on the bottom of their shroud?
Shane
64 Impala SS: 350 4 speed |
Edited by kingkreeton on 05-02-12 02:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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ARKAR
Contributor
Posts: 580
Loc: Arkansas
Reg: 01-26-09
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05-02-12 03:48 AM - Post#2221414
In response to kingkreeton
I can get some pics of my Dad's car tonight. I'm pretty sure that your shroud is mounted correctly. Do a seach on Ebay for "1964 Impala" and look at some of the pictures of the engine bays.
Keith
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fiftysixbowtie
Senior Member
Posts: 1072
Loc: Plano, Texas
Reg: 04-10-03
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05-02-12 06:17 PM - Post#2221713
In response to Joker63
I had a similar problem after replacing my radiator which sat higher than my old one which caused my fan to nick my transmiion cooling lines. My solution was to get a smaller fan.
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kingkreeton
Contributor
Posts: 458
Loc: Wilmington NC
Reg: 04-15-11
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05-02-12 06:24 PM - Post#2221717
In response to ARKAR
Even though the manual says to use the other holes, my shroud sat up too high and it does not look correct when following those guidelines. Maybe I don't have an original shroud or something else is not inline when the radiator support was put back together during the original restoration. Not sure but by following the manual instructions, I was worried the hood would not shut right and also about all the potential airflow loss from not having the shroud sitting in the correct position. I ended up filing out the holes and making them a bit bigger to get the clearance that I needed. I only needed about 1/4 inch, I filed out about a 1/2 for good measure. Good as new now. Thanks for everyone's help. Cheers
Shane
64 Impala SS: 350 4 speed |
Edited by kingkreeton on 05-02-12 06:28 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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turbo38s10
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 653
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
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05-03-12 06:47 PM - Post#2222168
In response to Joker63
Well at least it's fixed.
Something else has been nagging at the back of my brain, I seem to remember seeing somewhere that there were two different repalcement front mounts, one taller than the other. At some point it might be worth looking into. If I can ever find where I saw it I'll let you know. I only mention it because you said the mounts were replaced.
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turbo38s10
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 653
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
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05-03-12 07:12 PM - Post#2222180
In response to turbo38s10
Found it in Summit or Prothene.
They are 7-505 2 3/8 Wide at the bolt hole and 2 3/16" tall to center of engine mount bolt and then there are the 7-504 2 5/8" wide and 1 3/4" tall. I would look at where the long bolt goes thru the mount and where the engine mount meets the frame mount it should be a snug fit. If the is a gap of 1/4" total or the legs are bent way in then you probably have the tall mounts.hich adds 7/16" in height to your engine. Should be easy enough to measure and see.
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ARKAR
Contributor
Posts: 580
Loc: Arkansas
Reg: 01-26-09
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05-03-12 07:36 PM - Post#2222191
In response to turbo38s10
Did some studying and thinking on this. I think I have it figured out. Will post some pictures tomorrow. I would like to see some more pictures of your car too, but don't have to. Would also be interested in knowing a few other things. What brand of aftermarket radiator do you have on the car? Also, does the mounting brackets on the radiator itself have two sets of holes? It should. Also, the core support should have the nuts that the radiator and shroud mounting bolts screw in to "captured" or welded to on the front side of the core support. Has someone cut or took them off and used loose nuts to secure the mounting bolts? All this may contribute to your problem. I will post pictures and explain it all tomorrow, can't do it without pictures, but I think your radiator itself is also mounted too low which is why you can't move your shroud up without making the shroud off-center to the radiator which makes it look out of place, not to mention affect its cooling ability. From comparing your pictures to my Dad's '64(has the original radiator and shroud), your complete setup is too low. It all needs moved up some. We need pictures of the FRONT of your core support showing how high the top of the radiator is in relation to the top of the core support. There will be more to it than using the other set of holes on the radiator mounts to raise the whole setup, won't work that way and that's why I asked what aftermarket radiator you have and if it is currently mounted using "loose", not the original "captured" nuts on the front of the radiator core. Also notice that there's two sets of holes in the radiator support, I think that's how/why your whole system is mounted too low. I will explain it tomorrow.
Keith
Edited by ARKAR on 05-03-12 07:57 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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kingkreeton
Contributor
Posts: 458
Loc: Wilmington NC
Reg: 04-15-11
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05-03-12 09:16 PM - Post#2222227
In response to ARKAR
Ready-Rad radiator from Advance Auto and I am using the original "captured" threaded holes in the radiator support for mounting both the radiator and shroud. I seem to remember only having two holes on top and two holes on the bottom for the radiator mounts themselves but I could be wrong. I really can't remember and I don't plan on taking apart the system again until I get a quality USA made aluminum radiator and electric fan set up. As long as my radiator is not hanging down too low where it may hit something and I'm not having any cooling issues (non-yet, even when I had the shroud upside down for the last 6 months) I think I'll be ok for now. I'll post some pictures using a straight edge and measure the distance from the top of my radiator support and the radiator cap if you think that will help identify the issue. I am also curious about the post with the two different size motor mounts which I will look into this weekend as well (weather permitting).
Shane
64 Impala SS: 350 4 speed |
Edited by kingkreeton on 05-03-12 09:16 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 dcairns
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1530
Loc: Orange CA
Reg: 11-07-03
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05-04-12 06:11 AM - Post#2222300
In response to kingkreeton
Here is what my 64 looks like. I have A/C, so there are two bolts per corner (total of 8) holding the shroud on. But you can see the top hole is not used, just the bottom two. Mine is a regular Impala, not an SS, so I don't h ave those angled brackets on the shroud.
Bigger version of the above photo
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ARKAR
Contributor
Posts: 580
Loc: Arkansas
Reg: 01-26-09
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05-04-12 04:56 PM - Post#2222492
In response to dcairns
Had too much to do today to take and post pictures. Still can if needed but you can see the differences when comparing your setup to Dave's with the picture he posted above.
Your setup:
You posted that you are using the upper holes with the captured nuts on the top of the shroud and looking at the picture verifies that. But notice that your shroud is mounted lower than Dave's as yours uses the top hole and his uses the second hole from the top. Also notice that not only is Dave's shroud mounted higher, but there is a little more distance from the top edge of the shroud's side bracket to the bottom edge of the top tank. So this also confirms that his radiator is also mounted higher. I can also tell that your radiator has only one set of holes in it's mounts because you should be able to see the one of the second set of holes in the middle hole of the shroud in your picture. I assume that the radiator was for a non a.c. car and therefor didn't have the second set of holes since there was no condenser to mount on the other side of the support.
So this confirms that your whole setup is low, both radiator and shroud. That's why the shroud looks like it's too high on the radiator if you use the next lower set of holes of the shroud. I think the best fix if you were gonna retain your current setup would be to drill some more holes in the radiator mount brackets after one of us got some measurements for you and then raise the radiator and then the shroud would mount in the right spot and your fan would be centered.
Keith
Edited by ARKAR on 05-04-12 05:02 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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kingkreeton
Contributor
Posts: 458
Loc: Wilmington NC
Reg: 04-15-11
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05-04-12 11:30 PM - Post#2222594
In response to ARKAR
I agree with your assessment. Thanks for your time and effort in helping me solve this issue. It really was a PIA. No need for you to post any pictures, I have a good idea what you are talking about from your write up.
Shane
64 Impala SS: 350 4 speed |
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chevvyeddie
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1
Reg: 05-08-12
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05-08-12 08:13 PM - Post#2223996
In response to Joker63
I just read about your problem while searching for a different situation of mine. First, DO NOT try to shim the radiator support. You will throw the fender alignment and risk hitting doors. Not a good thing. As for the motor mounts: there are repop mounts that have a safety rivet to "prevent" separation. Double check the integrity of your mounts and check that trans mount. Some replacements vary in design and you don't want to throw off the dive-angle too much. Now, for the simple solution: unless you are building a 100 point trailer queen, feel free to elongate the shroud holes for clearance. And get rid of that four blade fan. I personally do not like the flex fan approach. I have had bad experience with separation at high rpm's. Just get a decent five blade fan, preferably a fan-clutch style. They are available at all auto parts stores and cost is not too bad. Cooling will improve vastly. The problem with finding OE blades is you never know what you will be getting. Corrosion and age weakens them. I will keep an eye out for replies to this post.
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