steveimpala
Forum Newbie
Posts: 64
Loc: Dutchess County, New York
Reg: 04-02-12
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04-26-12 06:40 PM - Post#2219502
Guys - I have an oil leak coming from the rear of the intake mainfold om my '69 Impala. It's a 327ci stroke to a 331ci. with Al. intake. It's been a while since I replace an intake gasket on the car, my question is should the gasket go on "dry" or should I put some gasket sealer around the end of the gasket? Everything is off the engine now, I'm just in the process of cleaning up everything,I would like to get this back together by the weekend - any imput is appreciated !
Member:
-National Impala Association
-Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
-Antique Automobile Club of America
1986 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Frost Green
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Tuxedo Black |
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BIGIRON
Contributor
Posts: 131
Loc: Oxford, N.C.
Reg: 05-07-10
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04-26-12 07:02 PM - Post#2219510
In response to steveimpala
I never use the stock rubber end gaskets that come with the set. They will invariably get "wet" and begin to leak.
The solution is RTV sealer. I use either Ultra Black, or High-Temp Red. Clean well with brake or carb cleaner, remove old sealer and gasket. Lay a 3/8" bead between the side gaskets much the same as the rubber gasket lays.
Carefully place the intake down, taking care not to move the intake around.
Now you have a seal that will be there until you remove that intake.
BIGIRON
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slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 676
Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
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04-26-12 07:39 PM - Post#2219528
In response to BIGIRON
Another tried way to seal the frt and rear of the intakes is to use bathroom grade clear silicone.Very cheap and works great for a long time.
I lay a bead about the diameter of a pencil the full lengthof the block rail,and let sit til you can litely touch it with out your finger sticking.This is considered letting the silicone "tack up" which is when the intake is ready to be placed on.
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steveimpala
Forum Newbie
Posts: 64
Loc: Dutchess County, New York
Reg: 04-02-12
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04-27-12 05:32 AM - Post#2219609
In response to BIGIRON
Thanks for your replies!!
Member:
-National Impala Association
-Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
-Antique Automobile Club of America
1986 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Frost Green
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Tuxedo Black |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2610
Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-27-12 10:31 AM - Post#2219685
In response to steveimpala
I just had to remove and resal my aluminum intake as well, iron and aluminum expand/contract at different rates. If your engine ever runs hot or overheats it will leak like mine did because the aluminum expands more and faster than the iron block, iintake bolts will also loosen up. make sure you have adequate cooling.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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steveimpala
Forum Newbie
Posts: 64
Loc: Dutchess County, New York
Reg: 04-02-12
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04-27-12 03:52 PM - Post#2219755
In response to wheelman
Thank you Wheelman for your reply...You brought up an excellent point, which makes sense to me now. This engine was built about ten years ago, Edelbrock Heads, intake, Hooker Super Comp Headers, 600 cfm carb, all the internals and machined 30 over. The engine sat until three years ago when the frame-off resto was completed on the body. Everything was put back, but now I'm wondering if I should of upgraded the radiator... I replaced the original radiator back in ( it was cleaned and pressure tested ok ) What's your thoughts on this guys ?
Member:
-National Impala Association
-Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
-Antique Automobile Club of America
1986 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Frost Green
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Tuxedo Black |
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BIGIRON
Contributor
Posts: 131
Loc: Oxford, N.C.
Reg: 05-07-10
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04-27-12 05:42 PM - Post#2219789
In response to steveimpala
My experience, for what it's worth, went like this.
I asked a guy that ran a radiator shop in the past about what the options were for reconditioning a stock radiator. He said stop up the inlet and out, fill with water and pull the lower plug. Time how long it took the water to drain out. 1 to 3 seconds for a four core unit would determine it was clear and would flow well.
He then told me that if the engine was built-up any it would last about 30 days, then begin to leak. I'd fix that and then another.
Well, he was right on, you could have set your watch by how close to the 30 days it was before the first leak. I wound up doing a re-core. (He also told me how to do this myself, it was easy enough when you know how)
Anyway, haven't had any trouble since the re-core, although, I would have went aluminum if it had not been a stock appearing restoration.
It was the one thing I tried to scrimp on and save the money. Lessons learned.......
BIGIRON
Edited by BIGIRON on 04-27-12 05:44 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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steveimpala
Forum Newbie
Posts: 64
Loc: Dutchess County, New York
Reg: 04-02-12
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04-28-12 12:01 AM - Post#2219856
In response to BIGIRON
Thank you BIGIRON for your reply...I might start pricing Al. radiators!! Has anyone use a waterless engine coolant, such as Evans Coolant for their Chevy's ?
Member:
-National Impala Association
-Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
-Antique Automobile Club of America
1986 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Frost Green
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Tuxedo Black |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2610
Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-29-12 04:04 PM - Post#2220342
In response to steveimpala
I run a 4 row original style w clutch fan and still run avg over 200deg plan on goin to a dual 12" elec from flexlite soon.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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BIGIRON
Contributor
Posts: 131
Loc: Oxford, N.C.
Reg: 05-07-10
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04-29-12 04:21 PM - Post#2220351
In response to wheelman
I can't answer to the Evan's coolant. I did do a bit of reading on the topic, but came away confused as to the effectiveness. Cost was another factor.
My '69 427 ran hot then HOTTER relative to ambient air temp. Using the stock 7 blade/clutch set-up didn't help matters. I suspected the clutch, so we fabbed an aluminum clutch eliminator on the CNC lathe at work. (These can be bought over the counter, but if ya can, ya should, I say)
Cooling problems are gone now. The 7 blade pulls a ton of air and my temps have not exceeded 210 even during Interstate driving 75 mph +/- with 104 degrees ambient. Typical operating temp is 180 degrees at 90 ambient.
BIGIRON
Edited by BIGIRON on 04-29-12 04:22 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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steveimpala
Forum Newbie
Posts: 64
Loc: Dutchess County, New York
Reg: 04-02-12
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05-01-12 04:07 PM - Post#2221249
In response to BIGIRON
Thanks for all of the imput - I really appreciate it !
Member:
-National Impala Association
-Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
-Antique Automobile Club of America
1986 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Frost Green
1969 Chevrolet Impala Custom - Tuxedo Black |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2610
Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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05-01-12 04:58 PM - Post#2221265
In response to BIGIRON
I may have to try that.. One reason mine runs hot i the AC condenser the same size as the radiator reduces air flow, and with a large external transmission cooler for the 700R4 in the same location that's a lot to cool with limited air flow. I have tried with the aluminum spacer in place of the clutch and the car ran hotter actually loosening the solder joints that hold the core into the radiator frame and the 2 retaining tabs on top came off as well as a split open seam.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
|
BIGIRON
Contributor
Posts: 131
Loc: Oxford, N.C.
Reg: 05-07-10
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05-01-12 05:55 PM - Post#2221292
In response to wheelman
Are you running a shroud? I would imagine that you are. My set-up has the stock shroud, but the clutch eliminator is the same dimensions as the old clutch. That placed the fan in the proper relationship with the shroud same as the stock set-up. I would suspect a spacer might, depending on length, run too deep or shallow in the shroud. Just guessing......
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