kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-23-12 10:26 AM - Post#2218241
After reading some I still have a . I know running your timing retarded will cause damage to the exhaust valves and piston rings and top of the cylinder walls. I ran a new rebuilt engine at 32* total for 500 miles. Should this be a big concern since the 350 small block factory specs call for 36* total? I am going to pull the dist and reset timing today just concerned. Would like to do a compression test but the engine has 500 miles on it so I dont know how accurate the reading will be.
|
|
 rumrumm
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1784
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
|
04-23-12 10:54 AM - Post#2218246
In response to kangaroo
No. It is not retarded enough to cause any damage. No need to worry about it.
|
55chevy383
Senior Member
Posts: 1278
Age: 45
Loc: Noble, Ok.
Reg: 12-08-05
|
04-23-12 11:01 AM - Post#2218248
In response to rumrumm
No. It is not retarded enough to cause any damage. No need to worry about it.
X's 2. 32*-36* is pretty normal for most small blocks.
Phil
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-24-12 10:26 AM - Post#2218653
In response to 55chevy383
Thanks that helps me sleep better,lol.
I pulled the dist last night and readjusted to 36*. I had it set at 32* because the dist hit the intake and that the reason I had to pull.
I am now at 36* total @3000rpm with vacuum can plugged. The 36* comes in exactly at 3000rpm. I am also at 16* initial vac. can plugged, 660rpm. I also have a limiter plate on the vacum can to allow 10*adv. Does this look about right? I have a 84 c-10 350/350 ,plugs gaped at .038 with 31" tall tires and 2:72 gearing.
I have a miss also that i believe is coming from the ignition system so a rebuild of the HEI is in my near future.
|
Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24741
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
|
04-24-12 10:58 AM - Post#2218659
In response to kangaroo
That should be better. Does it run better?
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-24-12 12:24 PM - Post#2218685
In response to Rick_L
Just ran it and it does run better. Off idle is also smoother and seems a little stronger off idle also.
Now I need to also start getting parts for the rebuild of the hei. I checked the shaft end play when I pulled the dist and a came up with .060 of movement. From what I have read it should be .025-.030 end play  . That alone with the dist gear also being used is where I think the "mis" is coming from. One of the wires is crack coming out of the dist base also. I am going to replace all parts in the dist. Any one know where a good place to buy parts?
Edited by kangaroo on 04-24-12 12:43 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24741
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
|
04-24-12 05:10 PM - Post#2218772
In response to kangaroo
I doubt that your miss is related to the end play. Most HEI distributors were built with .060" end play. Reducing it is a good thing.
Your miss is probably in the plug wires, distributor cap or rotor. Replace them all. HEIs are hard on those, and sensitive to problems with them.
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-24-12 06:13 PM - Post#2218805
In response to Rick_L
I will have to look at again. The cap,rotor,plugs,wires are all new. I also have about 20 wire seperators holding the wires. I did notice my timing light stumbled a little yesterday setting the timing but then cleared up.
|
 technitom
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 248
Age: 44
Loc: Near Cincinnati, OH
Reg: 12-01-11
|
04-24-12 06:41 PM - Post#2218815
In response to kangaroo
did you remember to use heat sink grease on the bottom of the coil? read this link it will explain what I mean:
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?...
without the heat sink compound you can get some arking
Words are a lot like toothpaste... Once its out of the tube,
there's no getting it back in... |
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-24-12 06:54 PM - Post#2218819
In response to technitom
Do you mean heat sink grease under the module? Or the insulator being placed correctly over the rotor bushing? I have not rebuilt the dist yet.
The mis seems to move around, its not really in a solid mis. It seems to have been there when I had the other engine also , it feels the same.
|
 Lynn63
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 545
Age: 72
Loc: Vicksburg, MI
Reg: 02-07-09
|
04-24-12 07:10 PM - Post#2218826
In response to kangaroo
kangaroo, I noticed you said you have about 20 wire separators. Does your #5 and #7 wires run side by side or do they cross at some point? I have been told that because those two cylinders fire consecutively in the firing order that when #5 fires that wire can induce #7 before compression is complete and you can get a stumble.
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-24-12 07:17 PM - Post#2218827
In response to Lynn63
kangaroo, I noticed you said you have about 20 wire separators. Does your #5 and #7 wires run side by side or do they cross at some point? I have been told that because those two cylinders fire consecutively in the firing order that when #5 fires that wire can induce #7 before compression is complete and you can get a stumble.
I will double check that in the day light and thanks for that tidbit of useful info. 
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-24-12 07:33 PM - Post#2218831
In response to kangaroo
I just remembered that my volt meter seems to also bounce at idle. I need to check in to this also. I have two volt meters , one is stock and the other is aftermarket. The stock meter is solid and the after market bounces at idle and steadies while driving. The interior lights dim also when the volt meter is bouncing. 
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-26-12 08:33 AM - Post#2219312
In response to kangaroo
Fix the volt meter, actually fixed the alt. that was causing the problem. My batt. still seem to be charging well and my alt is about a 1 year old if that. I remembered it seemed to act up after using a batt.charger on it. I bought a new voltage regulator for it yesterday and installed. Nothing,the thing would not charge at all with the new regulator. I found the original alt from the truck in the garage and took the old regulator out of that one to try. The old regulator fixed the problem of the volt meter bouncing. New regulator out of the box=BAD. OLD,OLD regulator=GOOD 
I am still working on the mis, rebuilding the dist is next...
|
kangaroo
Member
Posts: 176
Reg: 11-04-06
|
04-28-12 12:45 PM - Post#2219992
In response to kangaroo
Still undecided to rebuild the stock HEI or buy a new one like the MSD street fire or Mallory HEI. I have read links on rebuilding and new units and cost will be about the same for either. I did find the 375 and 41 weights ,about 3 sets to rebuild and install.
I am thinking new?
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
drtyler (4)
