timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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 04-17-12 09:24 PM - Post#2216390
Hello,
I hope some one can help me out a little. I have a 88 chevy c1500 305. Low mileage for its age (around 169k).
Anyhow it idles at 1k rpm and then will idle down to 500-600 rpm. It gets really bad fuel mileage now and does have a slight hesitation when moving from a stop. also gives code 32. Which i searched and it says code 32 is EGR. I'm just looking for troubleshooting tips etc be for i spend $70-100 on a new EGR valve.
Thanks for any info etc, I'm not the best at automotive diagnoses.
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 CowboyTrukr
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 730
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
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04-17-12 11:34 PM - Post#2216399
In response to timcrunch
Welcome to the forum, Tim.
At the top of the page on this forum there is an FAQ section. Go there and check out the Code 32 troubleshooting tips. There's a lot of good info to get you started.
Greg
'94 Silverado K2500 4X4 5.7 5spd Xcab LB
RV cam, Pace Setter Headers, TBI spacer, Flow Tech air cleaner adapter, Hypertech street chip
"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke |
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 navygunner08
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 644
Loc: New London, CT
Reg: 02-13-11
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04-18-12 12:30 AM - Post#2216400
In response to CowboyTrukr
As a good maintenance item and this very well could be the cause, you should replace your Coolant Temperature Sender. It is located next to the water neck. These things go bad all the it and when they do they cause all kind of problems including the ones you listed. Its about $20 and if you ask Richard (someotherguy)he will tell you that it should be replaced as semi-annual maintenance. Make sure you get AC Delco, or other factory replacement.
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Allan In NE
Contributor
Posts: 922
Reg: 12-27-11
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04-18-12 07:41 AM - Post#2216471
In response to timcrunch
Code 32 is tripped when there is a loss of vacuum at the EGR solenoid. (The torque converter lockup solenoid can also trip it, but VERY, VERY RARELY does this happen.
Allan
| Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist |
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-18-12 10:31 AM - Post#2216523
In response to navygunner08
I have replaced the coolant temp twice since i read a lot of post suggestion that.
Allan In NE: Yeah i think it might be leaking since its 24 years old, but i have really really bad fuel mileage at around 5-7 mpg and wouldn't think a EGR would cause this? I'm thinking maybe the IAC might be bad. If i turn the wheel all the way to the right it does not speed up the engine.
I took the IAC out last night and cleaned it, and put it back in this morning. The truck did not idle over 800 rpm and idled around 600-800. It also died on first start and i had to hold pedal down a bit to keep it running at first. Could a bad IAC cause such a bad lose in fuel mileage?
I have also already replaced the 02, map, EGR solenoid, ignition control module, cap/rotor, spark plugs/wires, coil, fuel pump and filter last week.
I cant find any bad vac lines unless there is one hiding behind the engine near fire wall?
Edited by timcrunch on 04-18-12 10:32 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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catalano82
Forum Newbie
Posts: 60
Loc: Virginia Beach
Reg: 11-18-10
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04-18-12 12:08 PM - Post#2216543
In response to timcrunch
i Just had the same problem on my 95 silverado. I replaced the EGR valve because it failed the vacume test. I replaced it with a Delphi EGR that i bought from rock auto for 55 dollars. After i replaced it problem went away. Then i noticed my horrible gas mileage i was getting got better. I now get 13.5-14 miles a gallon driving around town.
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Allan In NE
Contributor
Posts: 922
Reg: 12-27-11
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04-18-12 02:45 PM - Post#2216587
In response to timcrunch
Anytime that light is on, the computer is in default or "limp" mode, which translates into just DUMPING fuel down 'er gullet to get you home.
Allan
| Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist |
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-18-12 03:08 PM - Post#2216600
In response to catalano82
Thanks for the response, I'll be buying the same EGR Friday.
@Allan In NE: thanks. I never thought about that, but it makes complete sense. I'm going to replace the EGR and i think the IAC also since i think it is bugging out on me.
Thanks to every one who responded, I'm appreciative. Once i get the replacement EGR and IAC I'll post back to update you guys(might help others down the road).
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-19-12 12:30 PM - Post#2216945
In response to timcrunch
Any one know a online place to order Delphi? These part house's around here don't carry,and advanced keeps shipping the wrong egr valve to their store for me 
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 someotherguy
Moderator
Posts: 23559
Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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04-19-12 12:58 PM - Post#2216951
In response to timcrunch
Amazon is a great place to look up parts; I usually hit Rockauto or similar sites to get my part #'s first.
Last TBI-application Delphi EGR valve I bought off Amazon was about $50 and change.
Richard
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drifterdude
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1282
Reg: 09-04-08
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04-19-12 05:28 PM - Post#2217044
In response to someotherguy
I second amazon. Got my delphi EGR for 55 shipped had it in my hands in 3 days.
92 K1500:350 bored 30 over,built 700r4,Comp extreme energy cam,double roller timing set,shaved heads,Rancho RS9000XL series shocks with wireless my ride system,35 inch Mickey Thompson Baja Claws,Relocated 4x4 switch to rocker on Dash.
Other mods.. |
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-19-12 08:13 PM - Post#2217109
In response to drifterdude
Yeah i checked and found one for around $55, but for $7 more i can simple get it from the parts house site to store deal(1 day ship free). I gave them one last chance to get it right so we will see tomorrow or Sat when ever i get get back over there.
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-21-12 12:04 PM - Post#2217589
In response to timcrunch
New EGR on, no noticeable difference in how it runs. Still surges a little, but light as not come back on "yet". I'll give it a little more time and drive it a bit more and see what happens.
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-21-12 06:40 PM - Post#2217692
In response to timcrunch
Well the good and bad. Code 32 seems to be gone, and truck still runs the same though.. oddly enough now code 45 is keeping the service light on 
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someotherguy
Moderator
Posts: 23559
Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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04-21-12 07:35 PM - Post#2217717
In response to timcrunch
Code 45 is rich exhaust; what's the condition of your coolant temperature sensor (CTS) in the intake manifold next to the thermostat housing? Are you running the correct thermostat - 195F? and sure it's good? Confirm operating temp fully warmed up with an infrared thermometer aimed around the base of the thermostat housing, scanning around for max temp, should be very close to the rating of the thermostat.
Richard
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-21-12 11:54 PM - Post#2217760
In response to someotherguy
New temp sensor, no I think its running a 165 thermostat. The old 195 was bad and only replacement they had in stock that day was 165, guy said it would be fine, but when your stuck on the side of the road you do what you have to.
Anyhow do you think that could be causing the code 45? I thought the IAC would be the problem since the truck is idling all over the place (from 400-1000 rpm).
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navygunner08
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 644
Loc: New London, CT
Reg: 02-13-11
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04-22-12 02:49 AM - Post#2217777
In response to timcrunch
Did you start getting the code 45 after installing the 165 degree thermostat? If so then that would most likely be the cause of the code 45.
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 Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 2711
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
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04-22-12 07:31 AM - Post#2217841
In response to timcrunch
I think its running a 165 thermostat
Big mistake.
This TBI system is very dependent on have the engine run at the correct temperature and the coolant sensor working correctly.
Running cold tends to cause heavy carbon build up on the valves of TBI engines.
You better use the pour down the TBI method, (engine hot) with some Sea Foam after you put the correct temp Thermostat which is 195 degrees F.
Running with a cold thermostat on a fuel injected engine causes more fuel to be injected and will hurt gas mileage. The carbon it puts on the valves will hurt it more.
Running the engine cold can also contribute to carbon buildup causing EGR flow problems.
guy said it would be fine
The guy is giving you bad advice. Don't trust anything he tells you!
CT
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If the it has been altered from stock let us know about that too. |
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355Cheyenne
Senior Member
Posts: 3746
Loc: Northern MN
Reg: 10-27-04
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04-22-12 08:07 AM - Post#2217849
In response to Chevytech
^ I'm with this guy ^
| 98 Silverado k1500 4x4 350 |
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 4dr 57
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2762
Loc: The Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
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04-22-12 02:35 PM - Post#2217941
In response to 355Cheyenne
^ I'm with this guy ^
I am too!
Also I think you should clean out the IAC passages as well as the egr passage coming from the exhaust.
I've used wal mart carb cleaner, as well as sea foam and BG system cleaner. The carb cleaner did the best job, IMHO.
Stanley
| Wife: "Don't race the Police car, Stan!" |
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-22-12 05:09 PM - Post#2218010
In response to Chevytech
Yeah, i thought it was odd when he said it would be fine after telling me it calls for a 195.. but it was all he had in stock and i had to get to work.
The light for code 45 comes on be for the truck even heats up. It come on today when the temp was only 105-110 on aftermarket gauge(gauge is reading correct).
@4dr 57 yeah i pulled the IAC out and there is no carbon build up at all (already had the intake cleaned cause of carbon few months ago. I'm positive the old IAC is bad or going bad.
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navygunner08
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 644
Loc: New London, CT
Reg: 02-13-11
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04-22-12 11:57 PM - Post#2218118
In response to timcrunch
Have you checked your grounds yet? If not then you need to check and clean your sensor grounds on the intake manifold for corrosion and damage. I would also check your engine to frame, frame to body and battery to frame.
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-23-12 12:02 AM - Post#2218119
In response to navygunner08
i pulled and cleaned most of the grounds, there is one that was cut and taped together some time ago that I'm going to repair.
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navygunner08
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 644
Loc: New London, CT
Reg: 02-13-11
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04-23-12 11:49 AM - Post#2218268
In response to timcrunch
Yes, repair it soon. Which one is it exactly?
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timcrunch
Forum Newbie
Posts: 11
Loc: Kentucky
Reg: 04-17-12
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04-23-12 06:22 PM - Post#2218446
In response to navygunner08
One going to Temp sensor, but does not seem to effect it. I have tested the temp sensor at different temp, but still going to repair it better then it is now.
I used carb cleaner to check for vac leaks and sprayed all around the intake and vac lines etc, no change in idle what so ever so i ruled vac leaks out.
I also sea foamed the truck about a hour ago through the break booster vac line, and added some to the fuel. Also used some down the tbi like was suggested. will see how it does tomorrow when i go to work in it.
P.S picking up a 195 thermostat tomorrow also.
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