wheelman
Valued Contributor
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Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-13-12 05:15 PM - Post#2214798
I began a new project to remove rust around vinyl roof trim but things quickly got out of control.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
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Fossil_Fuel
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 850

Age: 53
Loc: Minnesota
Reg: 09-11-07
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04-13-12 05:59 PM - Post#2214823
In response to wheelman
Wheelman,
Looks like you got a little carried away. Now what is your plan??
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BIGIRON
Contributor
Posts: 131

Loc: Oxford, N.C.
Reg: 05-07-10
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04-13-12 06:09 PM - Post#2214829
In response to Fossil_Fuel
Just how many times has this happened? In other words, you are not alone.
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-14-12 04:30 AM - Post#2214963
In response to BIGIRON
Well Fossil a previous owner had painted her right over the original laquer without even prepping the surface, after removing all the emblems bezels and marker lights I found the original Ermine white. The current paint is horrendous,pitted bubbling and flaking not to mention all the fish eyes. At this point I'm currently going full bore prepping the old gal for a complete exterior repaint after fully removing all rust and repairing thee meetal work to the best of my ability. She won't be Riddler worthy, but at least cruise worthy and rust free. Sure would be nice to have a shop right about now.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 714

Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
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04-14-12 11:15 AM - Post#2215049
In response to wheelman
I have actually removed crappy un prep'd paint jobs with a razor blade down to the original paint,there were some scrapes and such from it but it was faster and cheaper than using a sander and all the paper that would have been needed.
My last paint strip was on a 80 camaro that had been painted once badly prepped.I used one small can of air craft stripper and the stuff just bubbled right off down to the bare metal.
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SSuper Dave
Member
Posts: 317
Loc: Pearland TX
Reg: 10-02-05
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04-14-12 07:00 PM - Post#2215164
In response to slammed1
Tis a slippery slope you've headed down... enjoy it! And post more pics!!!!
1968 Caprice coupe, 327/275, TH400, Ash Gold/Ivy Gold, Tach Dash and N96 Wheelcovers
1971 El Camino SS454, TH400, Daytona Yellow, black vinyl top, Sandalwood interior, aka "The Bee"
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe, 396/325, 2004R, Ermine White, red bench. |
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Fossil_Fuel
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 850

Age: 53
Loc: Minnesota
Reg: 09-11-07
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04-15-12 09:58 AM - Post#2215345
In response to wheelman
Wheel,
Your car deserves a nice new paint. With all that you have done it will really complete your car.
I hate to even suggest this but did you consider replacing the Vinyl? If it is like mine you might have a few more soft spots under there.
Or around your back window? It might be worth pulling the trim just to check.
I know its tough to know how far to go. I ended up going all-in and it has extended my completion time tremendously.
Good luck, it will look great when done.
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dadstoy
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1062

Age: 59
Loc: Lewisburg Ohio
Reg: 04-01-07
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04-15-12 11:38 AM - Post#2215378
In response to Fossil_Fuel
Got any Maaco paint shops near by? If you do the body work and prep they can paint it pretty reasonable. The local Maaco here does good paint but lousy body and prep work.
Larry.
1965 Impala convertible 396
1965 Impala 9 pass wagon 283
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-16-12 09:51 AM - Post#2215738
In response to dadstoy
heey Larry good to hear from you. yes as mater of fct. Ive been doing all the body work myself all the rust has been dealt with either ground off and treated with rust converter, or cut out and repaired. At this point finishing minor Bondo sanding and am at Body putty stage filling all those minute imperfections any areas down to bare metal were treated and primed all others are sanded dowwn to original paint ane below so a nice base for the paint to adhere to. My buddy has a phase 3 compressor and an empty vacant shop adjacent to his he can access I have considered taking it there or MAACO I would much rather do it myself because I am an anal perfectionist. LOL I want to get that accomplishment of saying I built this and restored it not paid for it. You guys know that feelin. Post some current pics tonight.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-16-12 10:02 AM - Post#2215742
In response to wheelman
Fossil yes contemplating that as well after the paint/ that's how this all started. I removed the trim by sail panel to remove minor rust and pulled back the roof about 6-8 inhes all is fine except the small are by sail panel ground down to bare metal treated with rust disolver/converter sealer then filled minor pin holes with a 2 part steel epoxy filed it smooth and is now primed. will be painting up as far under vinyl as I can to keep it sealed good. I would ultimately and ideally like to do away with the Vinyl it never was my style but that amount of work is too much right now. I know the window channels are mint as I had to replace the windshoeld in 06 cracked when bought Her so I had the guy so happens to be an Older gentleman and friend that is a car nut he restores older mid 30's 40's cars one frame off resto every 2 years then sells them after enjoying for the summer he has built some amazing rides. Look him up Otto Kost/Karmen Ghia. He removed windows so we could check evverything no rust. Only rust under car is on trunk support brace where body mount sits on. that's next.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-16-12 01:49 PM - Post#2215806
In response to wheelman
Productive day today and i know how you guys like pictures.. So here ya go.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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Fossil_Fuel
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 850

Age: 53
Loc: Minnesota
Reg: 09-11-07
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04-16-12 09:21 PM - Post#2215979
In response to wheelman
Keep it up! Looks like you are making progress.
Hope it doesn't rain!
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59fins
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1881

Age: 52
Loc: Surprise Az USA
Reg: 04-07-00
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04-19-12 07:18 AM - Post#2216841
In response to Fossil_Fuel
Wheelman,
One thing you should do is remove the body side trim, if I remember correctly they are held on with plastic clips, and maybe a bolt at each end? I did a 68 Impala convertible about 25 years ago, it was my Dad's project, anyways you will be glad you did, it makes for a much cleaner paint job, and the paint under the moldings will be painted also, good chance to clean the moldings up while off the car, they really are not hard to remove, hardest part would probably be the plastic clips (so they don't break) I am sure someone makes them they were a pretty common clip in there day.
looks like you have put allot of work into the car, I would hate to see you cut a corner on not removing the b/s moldings and what ever other moldings, rocker/ handles etc, they will make the difference in a good job, vs a great job, also remove or loosen the bumper before you spray paint, and I know what it's like to say you have done all the work yourself, it's rewarding, but finding the point of where to stop is very difficult, I'd remove the vinyl top and put one on when you can afford it, you will never get that vinyl to lay down flat again, but I also know in this economy times are tough, but going w/o the vinyl top for a year would be worth the wait, when you see the new one on, small details is what makes the car stand out, it usually takes more time, but IMHO it's worth every minute, you are going to have the expense of the paint and all the prep work.
I would encourage you to go the extra mile, it will only be the difference of a day or two, and living w/o a vinyl top for a while, I would get some quotes on the cost of some one doing the top so you have an idea before you paint. where do you stop? I've seen you put allot of work into this car and a good paint job will be something that should last a long time, it's all in the prep work when it comes to the body, after all that's what people see the most, is the body either driving down the road or sitting at a car show. Good luck and keep up the good work, I'd hate to see your paint start to peel around those body side moldings in year or two after putting all the time into it, putting the moldings back on after a new paint is the greatest feeling, GM didn't paint the car with the moldings on. and were they removed the last time the car was painted? and not sanded under them then? now your talking several mils of paint around the moldings, just a thought, it won't take as much time as you think it will, and worth it in the end.
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-19-12 12:21 PM - Post#2216943
In response to 59fins
Bill,
I had considered that. I can easily remove the lower trim, the quarter panel and door trim with no problem the big problem is the one nut on the end of each trim piece, the one I canot access is the front fender trim retaining bolt- it requires removal of the fender or inner fender wells and I just don't have the help or ability to do that myself. I am already pushong the limits of my spine injury. maybe I'll just remove as much as I can and have to deal with fender trim in place. I have removed vinyl trim and believe I can obtain the plastic clips at Kempler Auto Body Supply I just happen to have one of their major Distributor locations around the corner because I live in an Indutrial area that is majorly Auto restoration, some of the places near my house are East coast Chevelle's East coast Tri-Five LI Corvette Supply(maker of all corvette restoration parts for 53-67 Corvette's) Corvette Central(68- and up Corvette's) Goodmark Industries. ETC.. A Car Guys dream lcation to tell you the truth just a high priced area for the Hobby. If there's an easier way to remove the front trim let me know...
Thanks Greg
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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customcoupe68
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28

Reg: 04-17-12
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04-19-12 08:59 PM - Post#2217129
In response to wheelman
work looks good! vinyl tops are known for dry rotting, cracking and allowing water/moisture to be trapped under it, then causing rust...only way i would put a vinyl top back on is if i put like POR 15 on the roof or something before hand to avoid any rust in the future...
unless your wanting to stay all original i would scrap it and the idea...
keep the wrenchs turning
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customcoupe68
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28

Reg: 04-17-12
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04-20-12 07:36 PM - Post#2217436
In response to customcoupe68
i was fortunate to not find any suprises under mine though...
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-24-12 04:12 PM - Post#2218740
In response to customcoupe68
I'm back home waiting for the sun to reappear so I can getit out and moving on it again.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-25-12 04:04 PM - Post#2219069
In response to wheelman
Ok today I made quite a bit of progress. BUT-can anyone tell me why the body side molding on the front fender is held on with speed nuts the entire length of the fender?? I wascable to remove the front fender extensions, the rocker panel trim and the door & rear quarter panel side molding but not on the front fender. what aggrivation! I sanded down the pitted fender extensions with 3 layers of paint got them smooth primed and chrome painted & cleared-came out great.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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slammed1
Contributor
Posts: 714

Age: 42
Loc: Ark
Reg: 03-28-12
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04-25-12 06:32 PM - Post#2219137
In response to wheelman
keep up the good work,those moldings can be quite irritating at times.Is why we removed ours and filled in the holes.

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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-28-12 02:48 PM - Post#2220013
In response to slammed1
Making progress. Spent today moving forward the whole car has a good couple coats of primer on her now if I could get the fender trim off I'd be happy. Plan to wet sand the whole thing smooth and remove the body piece below the rear bumper and above exhaust to get that sanded and painted off the car I have a special plan and detail for that piece-will be aa surprise. So here's some pics;
My youngest and only gearhead child Tatiana inspecting her inheritance,
Painted underside of trunk lid weatherstrip channel and any exposed painted area in truck jamb
area where I had to do repairs or rust removal.
So how am I doing so far? This is my first complete body restoration of this calliber. wish I had a garage or shop I tell ya.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
Edited by wheelman on 04-28-12 02:51 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Sparkywax
Contributor
Posts: 805

Age: 44
Loc: Indiana
Reg: 10-31-10
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04-28-12 04:15 PM - Post#2220033
In response to wheelman
Great job, keep up good work.
1955 Belair 2dr
1955 Belair 4dr (parts car)
1964 Impala SS
1966 Chevrolet Truck
1968 Chevrolet Truck
1968 Impala SS 396 (Survivor)
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BBChevro
Contributor
Posts: 109

Age: 54
Loc: Qld., Australia
Reg: 03-31-12
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04-28-12 05:22 PM - Post#2220048
In response to 59fins
Wheelman,
One thing you should do is remove the body side trim, if I remember correctly they are held on with plastic clips, and maybe a bolt at each end? I did a 68 Impala convertible about 25 years ago, it was my Dad's project, anyways you will be glad you did, it makes for a much cleaner paint job, and the paint under the moldings will be painted also, good chance to clean the moldings up while off the car, they really are not hard to remove, hardest part would probably be the plastic clips (so they don't break) I am sure someone makes them they were a pretty common clip in there day.
looks like you have put allot of work into the car, I would hate to see you cut a corner on not removing the b/s moldings and what ever other moldings, rocker/ handles etc, they will make the difference in a good job, vs a great job, also remove or loosen the bumper before you spray paint, and I know what it's like to say you have done all the work yourself, it's rewarding, but finding the point of where to stop is very difficult, I'd remove the vinyl top and put one on when you can afford it, you will never get that vinyl to lay down flat again, but I also know in this economy times are tough, but going w/o the vinyl top for a year would be worth the wait, when you see the new one on, small details is what makes the car stand out, it usually takes more time, but IMHO it's worth every minute, you are going to have the expense of the paint and all the prep work.
I would encourage you to go the extra mile, it will only be the difference of a day or two, and living w/o a vinyl top for a while, I would get some quotes on the cost of some one doing the top so you have an idea before you paint. where do you stop? I've seen you put allot of work into this car and a good paint job will be something that should last a long time, it's all in the prep work when it comes to the body, after all that's what people see the most, is the body either driving down the road or sitting at a car show. Good luck and keep up the good work, I'd hate to see your paint start to peel around those body side moldings in year or two after putting all the time into it, putting the moldings back on after a new paint is the greatest feeling, GM didn't paint the car with the moldings on. and were they removed the last time the car was painted? and not sanded under them then? now your talking several mils of paint around the moldings, just a thought, it won't take as much time as you think it will, and worth it in the end.
Wheelman
I couldn't agree more - what Bill said is 100% correct.
I would actually recommend going a bit further & removing as much as you can - door handles, locks, etc.
When I bought my '65 Impala wagon it had undergone a couple of "professional" re-sprays - it looked great, until one day when I was washing it, some paint flaked off around a tail lamp (not an issue with the '68 - but the key hole on the trunk lid is a very similar profile), when I removed the light, the original color was underneath.
It is a great feeling of accomplishment to do your own paint job - finding that bit of flaking paint prompted me to do my first total re-spray, which I was very pleased with (I did learn a lot about color-sanding after it though). It does need paint again now (it needs a "back to metal" job this time), but I did that paint job in about 1985 - so I'm happy with that.
It is very difficult to sand effectively right up to any obstacle, so a little bit of extra work now may eliminate the need for "touch-ups" later.
It's a big learning curve, talk to any painters you may know, read as many articles as you can.
you've put it a lot of effort already, it's looking good in the photos, keep up the good work.
Mark
Mark
There is light at the end of the tunnel..... hopefully, it's not a train. |
Edited by BBChevro on 04-28-12 05:24 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-28-12 08:37 PM - Post#2220105
In response to BBChevro
Thanks guys all trim is off but front fender pieces it seems those are attached differently each of those has 7 studs w speed nuts that are unacesable hidden between the fender back and inner fender well kinda pissed about that. Door handles and locks are only on for now because car is kept outside and do not want it stolen. If anyone has secret to removing that front trim piece please let me know-please....
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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BBChevro
Contributor
Posts: 109

Age: 54
Loc: Qld., Australia
Reg: 03-31-12
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04-28-12 11:32 PM - Post#2220126
In response to wheelman
Door handles and locks are only on for now because car is kept outside and do not want it stolen.
Doh! I hadn't thought of that.
I've been in similar situations many years ago - Maybe you could move some of the patio furniture & move the Chevy forward, then park another car close behind it - it all helps & should deter the joy-riders (mind you, if some mongrel really wants it....).
Some secondary security measures wouldn't go astray either - a hidden electrical kill switch is a good plan, a hidden fuel tap is even better - the car starts, then (as soon as the fuel bowls empty) it stops.
Nothing is fool proof, but as I said, it all helps.
I'm getting off the track here - so I'll stop now.
Mark
Mark
There is light at the end of the tunnel..... hopefully, it's not a train. |
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customcoupe68
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28

Reg: 04-17-12
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04-29-12 07:33 AM - Post#2220181
In response to BBChevro
yea buddy, go ahead and remove that fender trim...if i can remember right, i started off accessing the area between the headlights and the inner fender wheel (under the hood) then i went inbetween the fender (door jam)..
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-29-12 03:55 PM - Post#2220339
In response to customcoupe68
Thanks I'll give that a try, from you pic I count 6 cliips I can reach 3 from front I'll ttry from rear saw 1 may be hardeer with door on. That's only trrim left besides on top lip of hood and can't see how that's attached. I redid fender extensions and headlight bezels with chrome paint and clearcoat I love the look better than chrome may end up redoing bumpers- kind of looks like pearlized aluminum.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-30-12 08:52 AM - Post#2220640
In response to wheelman
PRAISE THE LORD. After getting the front 3 speed nuts 1 turn the clips popped out of the molding same with back 2 cause rusted nut to clip. one damn clip I could not access getting frustrated was about to just say screw it and snap trim in half wheh i dropped my hold the molding spun and last clip fell out back of trim. they are finally off needless to say they will be reattached using a much updated type of retaining clip. clips still bolted to car nothing a chissel and hammer won't fix/ only thing partially an obstuction now is the window ledge trim w squegee
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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wheelman
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2648

Loc: Long Island--New York
Reg: 04-14-07
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04-30-12 01:32 PM - Post#2220727
In response to wheelman
More progress pics for you to peruse;
Painted inner fender and col lips and clearcoated.
Also painted & cleeareed door jambbs.
1968 Impala Sports Coupe
Old School
Save a Classic - Crush an Import
"King of the asphalt NOT Queen of the trailer."
My Impala |
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rooks
"3rd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 322

Age: 35
Loc: Australia
Reg: 02-03-10
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04-30-12 01:32 PM - Post#2220728
In response to wheelman
I had trouble getting to the trim in that spot on my Impala.
All I can add is if you paint the fender off the car, but that trim on before putting the fender back on.
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customcoupe68
Forum Newbie
Posts: 28

Reg: 04-17-12
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04-30-12 09:35 PM - Post#2220948
In response to rooks
yeah its definatly tricky but wasnt too bad, i guess my bolts werent too rusty so mine just spun off.
i was going to fill my holes in with bondo, but noticed they popped out too easy and didnt want to weld each hole so i just put the trim back on and painted the trim from black to blue to match..





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