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Username Post: ballast resistor wiring        (Topic#278782)
leekvanli 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 41

Age: 70
Loc: Montevideo, MN 56265
Reg: 03-27-12
03-27-12 05:56 PM - Post#2208264    

I just finished the 6 to 12 volt conversion on my 54 chevy. Everything seems to work fine, but after a few minuets the ballast resistor starts to smoke. I was un-sure of the wiring of this resistor. In the instructions I had , all it said was to wire it in series to the + plus side of the coil. I removed the pink wire and the wire from the DA PLUG that was on the + terminal of the coil. I wired these two wires to one side of the resistor and ran a wire from the other side of the resistor to the + terminal on the coil with the condenser wire also hooked up on it. The car starts and runs fine, the ammeter shows it is charging, all the lights and the fuel guage are working . Have I wired something wrong?

Thanks for any help with this problem

Lee

 
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rrausch 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11248
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
03-27-12 09:05 PM - Post#2208314    
    In response to leekvanli

A new ballast resistor might smoke temporarily because various coatings are burning off of it. But it shouldn't smoke for very long. Where does the other end of the pink wire go to?

BTW, welcome to CT! Tell us some more about your car and how you came to own it. And post some pictures if you can.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
leekvanli 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 41

Age: 70
Loc: Montevideo, MN 56265
Reg: 03-27-12
03-28-12 02:35 AM - Post#2208346    
    In response to rrausch

This pink wire was connected to the + side of the old coil. According to the wiring diagram I have, it goes to the ignition switch.

Thanks for your feed-back.

Lee

 
1949er 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 88
1949er
Loc: western nc
Reg: 07-14-09
03-28-12 05:10 AM - Post#2208376    
    In response to leekvanli

Run a 10 ga wire from the ign post of your starter switch to one side of the resistor...

From the other side of the resistor, run a 10 ga wire to the positive (+) side of the coil and a 10 ga wire to the I connector ( could be marked R) on the starter motor.

 
leekvanli 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 41

Age: 70
Loc: Montevideo, MN 56265
Reg: 03-27-12
03-28-12 06:20 AM - Post#2208402    
    In response to 1949er

Thanks for the reply. If I do this wiring to the resistor, what do I do with the pink wire that was connected to the + side of the old coil, and what do I do with the wire comming from the DA plug on the alternator?

Lee

 
prowler 
Contributor
Posts: 233
prowler
Loc: Port Alberni B.C.
Reg: 01-15-12
03-28-12 06:36 AM - Post#2208408    
    In response to leekvanli

Hmm, the only thing that is waving a red flag to me is the wire from the DA plug to the + side of the coil. That doesnt sound right. I will see what I can find, but I think that just goes directly to a hot wire on your ignition. Not sure if running it through the hot side of coil would cause this problem or not... I avoided all this by installing an internaly resisted coil. Simple...
52 Chev Styline. Now running a 250/TH 350 with a 2.77 rear end. Daily driver / work in progress


Edited by prowler on 03-28-12 06:37 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
50hotrod 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 669
50hotrod
Age: 57
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
03-28-12 08:02 AM - Post#2208428    
    In response to prowler

OK, Here's the deal. A ballast resistor simply splices into the positive wire going to the coil. It reduces the voltage, it will get hot during normal operation and some will emit smoke when new.


Well, you know what's wrong with the world today

People done gone put their Bible's away

They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land

"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels



 
rrausch 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11248
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
03-28-12 09:44 AM - Post#2208459    
    In response to 1949er

  • 1949er Said:
Run a 10 ga wire from the ign post of your starter switch to one side of the resistor...

From the other side of the resistor, run a 10 ga wire to the positive (+) side of the coil and a 10 ga wire to the I connector ( could be marked R) on the starter motor.



Wouldn't this keep the coil/points hot all the time, even when the engine was off? I'd think the + side of the coil should be wired to the ignition switch, with the ballast resistor wired between the ignition switch and the coil.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
1949er 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 88
1949er
Loc: western nc
Reg: 07-14-09
03-28-12 05:46 PM - Post#2208605    
    In response to rrausch

  • rrausch Said:
  • 1949er Said:
Run a 10 ga wire from the ign post of your starter switch to one side of the resistor...

From the other side of the resistor, run a 10 ga wire to the positive (+) side of the coil and a 10 ga wire to the I connector ( could be marked R) on the starter motor.



Wouldn't this keep the coil/points hot all the time, even when the engine was off? I'd think the + side of the coil should be wired to the ignition switch, with the ballast resistor wired between the ignition switch and the coil.



I figured you or blu would have something neg to say about this post by me....

Often times, the starter draws too much current and there is not enough juice to fire the plugs once it passes thru the ballast resistor...To compensate for this, auto manuf include a bypass circuit in the starter solenoid.

On GM cars, it is the outside post on the starter solenoid....this is the BALLAST RESISTOR BYPASS TERMINAL. Again...the 10 ga wire goes from this terminal to the pos + side of the ballast resistor ( the wire attached to the pos side of the coil ok)

Of course if you have a 6 volt system, you do not need a ballast resistor and your starter would NOT have the B/R terminal. You only need a ballast resistor if you have a 12 volt system and points. My 68 corvette has a 'resistor wire" vs a ballast resistor...does the same thing...cuts the volts to the points to about 8 volts.

What this does for you is to put the full battery voltage on the points while you are starting the motor...once you let go of the key and the starter disengages, the circuit opens up and you are now supplying the points with a reduced level of voltage.

Again...run one 10 ga wire from the ign switch ( it should be marked I or R on the switch, the S terminal goes to the S on the starter solinoid)to one side of the ballast resistor and the other ballast side as explained in the previous paragraph.

I wired my old 39 ford coupe this way and it worked for 7 years without a glitch and I was running 12 volts to the orig old 6 volt flathead motor.

Two wiring experts have furnished me with this correct way to wire your ballast resistor...the book " How to do Electrical Systems" by Tex Smith and " How to wire your Street Rod from Start to Finish" by Jack Sweeden. Both of these books have allowed me to wire two streetrods from the ground up without any wiring kit from any suppier...and these had pw,power cowl vent, p seat, air, etc. and of course the fleetline you see that is mine will be wired free hand also...

I advise everyone who is working or owns an old car to buy these two publications...they will let you see the light....it will be the best money you have spent so far...I think Speedway Motor carrys the last one...

Edited by 1949er on 03-28-12 06:15 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
rrausch 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11248
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
03-28-12 06:25 PM - Post#2208617    
    In response to 1949er

Sorry, 1949er I don't know who you are. If I've seemed negative toward you in the past, I apologize. It wasn't personal I assure you, but merely an effort on my part to post accurate information.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
50hotrod 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 669
50hotrod
Age: 57
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
03-29-12 12:19 AM - Post#2208687    
    In response to rrausch

rrausch, Here is the explanation of what he's trying to say....

Early Gm starters with the solenoid mounted on them have 3 terminals. One large terminal for a direct positive battery connection and 2 smaller terminals. One of the small terminals needs power to engage the starter. The other small terminal will become a 12 volt power source only when the starter is engaged. Otherwise that terminal is normally dead.

If you still need clarification on this I'm here to help.

A civil answer to someone that doesn't fully understand is all that was needed!!!

Well, you know what's wrong with the world today

People done gone put their Bible's away

They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land

"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels



Edited by bouncer on 03-29-12 12:26 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
leekvanli 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 41

Age: 70
Loc: Montevideo, MN 56265
Reg: 03-27-12
03-30-12 03:13 AM - Post#2209081    
    In response to rrausch

Thanks for all the replys. Everything is working O.K. now. I re-checked all my wiring and the resistor still gets hot but has stopped smoking.

Lee

 
rrausch 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11248
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
03-30-12 07:53 AM - Post#2209178    
    In response to leekvanli

Outstanding! It will always get hot--it works by resistance.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
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