 MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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03-20-12 09:48 AM - Post#2205091
I just changed valves springs on the 327 in my 55 sedan. Had to use every one of the fittings below to clear header tubes and steering box when pressurizing the cylinders. Only 3-4 were a straight shot.
A shorter spark plug fitting with a SWIVEL hose attached would have worked for just about every cylinder. Any suggestions for next time?
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 03-20-12 09:50 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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IgnitionMan
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2415
Reg: 04-15-05
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03-20-12 09:56 AM - Post#2205094
In response to MikeB
I have a Snap-On compression tester, and leak down tester. they both come with flexible hoses for a number of different spark plug types, and all have a hose quick disconnect on their ends. Then ones AI have are the same fitting design I use on my shop air system, A/M type, so, my air hoses connect directly to the feed hoses.
I also have an air pressure regulator that sandwiches in between the adapters and air source, so I can stop the air pressure down to hold things with air, like what you are doing.
I also don't try to hold the piston at TDC, but let it go to the bottom of the stroke. This is tricky, because if you haven't done this kind of work much, the chance of losing a valve down the bore is there.
I have seen some people be successful with filling the chamber through the spark plug hole, with the piston at TDC, with rope to hold the valves in place from their heads. Never was personally successful with that method, through.
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C10 Sleeper
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3426
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 03-17-09
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03-20-12 12:52 PM - Post#2205153
In response to IgnitionMan
I have a compression tester I bought at sears that does the same thing more or less. I also have an old spark plug I knocked the porcelain out of and threaded an male air hose fitting into it then used some solder to finish it off. I made that when I was a kid and it has never failed. A have also heard of the rope trick but never tried it as I have always had an air source.
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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03-20-12 04:06 PM - Post#2205230
In response to C10 Sleeper
Guys, do those hoses swivel? The compression testers I've seen don't have a swivel fitting. In tight spaces, it's impossible to get the thread started in the spark plug hole w/o a swivel. The good news is I may not do this type of job again for a long time!
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 03-20-12 04:06 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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IgnitionMan
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2415
Reg: 04-15-05
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03-20-12 05:39 PM - Post#2205296
In response to MikeB
My Snap-On ones do, and I also have made the cored out spark plug adapters as well, all works.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24741
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
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03-20-12 06:01 PM - Post#2205314
In response to IgnitionMan
I use the quick disconnect hose from a Sears compression tester. It swivels at the quick disconnect. It works with the compression tester, my leakdown tester, and if I want to pressurize for valve spring work.
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triplefive
Contributor
Posts: 653
Loc: Brisbane Australia
Reg: 07-08-11
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03-20-12 11:53 PM - Post#2205427
In response to Rick_L
There is another way to do it.
Feed a length of 1/4 rope into the plug hole, then wind the motor by hand until the rope is squashed up between the piston and the valves. this will hold the valves in place, and there's no chance of ruining your whole afternoon by losing air somehow and having a valve drop into the cylinder.
I haven't used this method myself before, but I have it from reliable sources that it works very well.
I did ask what happens if a knot occurs and was told that it had never happened in many years of doing it this way.
Cheers.
Mike.
Mike.
Procrastination; the one thing I never put off until tomorrow. |
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Pistol
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3558
Age: 66
Loc: Terryville, Ct.
Reg: 11-11-02
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03-21-12 05:06 AM - Post#2205449
In response to MikeB
I have seen them with flexible hoses but I haven't seen any with swivel end
Pete
Awl speeling misteaks r myn
57 BelAir 2DRHT My-Pics |
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greg_moreira
Very Senior Member
Posts: 3262
Reg: 10-06-03
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03-21-12 10:23 AM - Post#2205566
In response to Pistol
unfortunately I cant see the pics you are posting while working, but this one looks like it might offer pretty good flexibility
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84003/
The rope trick does work too.
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IgnitionMan
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2415
Reg: 04-15-05
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03-21-12 10:47 AM - Post#2205580
In response to triplefive
Yup, said that already, above.
"I have seen some people be successful with filling the chamber through the spark plug hole, with the piston at TDC, with rope to hold the valves in place from their heads. Never was personally successful with that method, through."
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triplefive
Contributor
Posts: 653
Loc: Brisbane Australia
Reg: 07-08-11
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03-21-12 02:39 PM - Post#2205691
In response to someotherguy
Yep, sorry. I missed that bit in the earlier post.
Mike.
Procrastination; the one thing I never put off until tomorrow. |
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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03-21-12 06:31 PM - Post#2205830
In response to someotherguy
I forgot all about the nylon rope trick until you guys brought it up. A buddy of mine who used to be an aircraft mechanic told me about it many years ago. But I've only got so many brain cells left!
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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C10 Sleeper
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3426
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 03-17-09
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03-21-12 06:49 PM - Post#2205841
In response to MikeB
I forgot all about the nylon rope trick until you guys brought it up. A buddy of mine who used to be an aircraft mechanic told me about it many years ago. But I've only got so many brain cells left!
With my luck I would probably be better off pulling the heads and doing the work on the bench. When it comes to what can go wrong in my case it usually does. If I thought I would take the easy way out I would probably end up dropping the first valve in the hole if I tried the air method or not be able to get the rope out if I did it that way.
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Run-em
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1
Reg: 03-15-12
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03-21-12 07:33 PM - Post#2205869
In response to MikeB
Why not just "feed it some rope" ? Plugs out--pull cylinder up on compression stroke--feed cylinder some nylon rope when valves are closed and push piston on up in cylinder to force rope into the valves. Now they can't drop and nylon rope is cheap.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 24741
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
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03-21-12 07:41 PM - Post#2205876
In response to Run-em
Actually I've changed quite a few valve springs with no air holding the valves up, just letting the vavle bottom out on the valve relief in the piston. It's a matter of whether you can compress the spring far enough as the valve drops, and whether the valve tip will get close enough to the top of the valve guide to where you can't pull it back up manually.
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paulo57509
Senior Member
Posts: 314
Loc: Tracy, CA
Reg: 07-18-00
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04-01-12 07:42 PM - Post#2210108
In response to MikeB
I use Parker push-to-connect fittings for PVC tubing. It's easier to get around header tubes and tight places using 1/4" plastic tube than hard pipe.
I used:
1. A 90-degree swivel elbow push-to-connect fitting. Drill and tap an old spark plug shell and thread the fitting into it.
2. A straight push-to-connect fitting. Thread this into the quick connect fitting to your air supply hose.
3. 1/4" diameter PVC tubing (use tube rated for 150psi air).
4. Male air hose connector.
How to make your air supply line:
Cut a length of PVC tube and connect the two assemblies. Screw one end into the spark plug hole, connect your air supply to the opposite end and replace those springs!
The nice thing about this setup is if you're space-limited, you can remove the tube from the spar plug adapter, thread this onto the head and then connect the tube afterwards. You can also remove the tubing from either fitting after you're done working on that particular cylinder.
I'd post a photo of the tool I made, but I lost it years ago. I left it at my Dad's shop and it disappeared.
Parts supplier:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/185/=gx9 oyh
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cloudmaster
Senior Member
Posts: 974
Loc: Arrowsmith, IL
Reg: 01-30-02
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 04-01-12 09:03 PM - Post#2210139
In response to C10 Sleeper
I bought a swivel whip hose for an air tool at Harbor Freight, knocked the porcelain out of an old spark plug, and soldered the two together after cutting them down as much as I could. The threads on the brass fitting sort of bit into the steel from the plug, and the solder just sealed it up (I would've brazed it if it was looser; I don't trust solder). The swivel I got had a snap ring holding it all together, so I could pull the rubber parts out before soldering.
The swivel is just tight enough that I can fish the tool around exhaust pretty easily; if you can get a plug in, you can get this in. And the other end already has the right thread for an air line quick disconnect.  I was actually just using it to change springs yesterday. :D
'71 Malibu: 350/200-4R/3.73 Eaton posi
'75 Elky: 350HO/TH350/3.42 peg leg
'85 C20: 454/TH400/3.73 locker
'95 Caprice Wagon: LT1/4L60E/3.42 posi
'95 BMW 740i: untouched, but a V8
'04 Grand Marquis: 2V4.6/3" pipes/SCT flash |
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