chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-14-12 05:58 PM - Post#2202663
I am changing my 55 Chevy over to front discs rear drums, I am using 80 monte carlo Calipers Any suggestions on a good booster master cylinder combination that will bolt up out of another year/model, Maybe something I can get from a salvage yard, local auto supply or swap meet?
Any info is greatly appreciated
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 62chevy427
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1499
Loc: laurens sc
Reg: 04-13-06
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03-14-12 07:44 PM - Post#2202718
In response to chevy guy
i used an early 70s chevy nova booster and master cul for a conversion i did on a 55 i had at the time.worked well. i also used 72 monte carlo rotors and calipers. made my own caliper mounts from a pattern someone gave me.
56 bel air ((since 2002)
62 impala ss (since 1965)
65 el camino (since 1969)
66 nova (since 1987)
67 malibu convertible (since 1981)
72 el camino ss454 (since 1985)
83 gmc 4wd (since 1991)
95 impala (new)
11 malibu (new) |
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 MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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03-15-12 11:21 AM - Post#2202986
In response to chevy guy
Those metric discs brakes will need all the help they can get. I'd recommend an M/C with a 1" piston bore along with a dual 8" booster -- and that assumes your engine makes at least 18" vacuum at idle.
Some CTers have adapted 70s-80s GM booster + M/C setups to their Tri-5s, but I couldn't say which year/models to look for.
And don't overlook the importance of the rear drums contacting at least 90% of the brake lining surfaces. If the drums have been turned, they will have a larger arc that the shoes. And when they don't conform to each other you lose a LOT of braking power. Back in the day, shops had a machine that would "arc in" the shoes to the drum, but those things are long gone. Your best bet today is new drums & shoes.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 03-15-12 11:23 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1663
Reg: 01-03-07
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03-15-12 02:44 PM - Post#2203072
In response to MikeB
Hello;
Got my master and booster from Speedway. This combination has worked very well for me on my 57'.
If I re did my brakes I would have to research everything again as there are several combinations from various vendors that work really great.
As far as the calipers go, I used the (they actually came on the car) full sized (not metric) ones. My car stops really great!
My 2 Cents.
Bruce
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chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-15-12 05:57 PM - Post#2203154
In response to 62chevy427
Thank You For the info. I can use all the help I can get 
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chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-15-12 06:04 PM - Post#2203156
In response to MikeB
Great info. this is a realy cool way to learn from others experiences. As a newbee It is a great help 
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chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-15-12 06:08 PM - Post#2203159
In response to Bruces 57
Thanks for the info. I will take all the 2 cents I can get. Its good to learn about vendors that have supplied parts that people are happy with and work well 
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Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1663
Reg: 01-03-07
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03-16-12 03:46 AM - Post#2203262
In response to chevy guy
Hello;
I am sure that there are plenty of car guys that have garages full of parts that didn't work as well as expected. In this day and age, the best tool you have is the internet and search tools. I spend more time researching that bolting these days as there is nothing more frustrating than working your butt off to put on parts that don't live up to "claims" of performance!!
Just take your time, look at all the avenues of ways to go, pick the best thing out there (not necessarily the cheapest) and buy that so you only have to do the job once and thats it!!
Bruce
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 6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1864
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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03-16-12 10:16 AM - Post#2203404
In response to chevy guy
If you saw the difference between the early and late Monty calipers, I would think you would opt for the early parts! I wouldn't fool with the Metric (late) calipers, when the early ones are larger and use bigger pads.  Gotta remember our cars weigh nearly TWO TONS as we go down the road!
MikeB nailed it - make dang sure the rear brakes are up to snuff FIRST!!! I made the conversion without checking and rebuilding the rears. MAN... the brakes were really touchy, had to avoid panic stops!   Drums don't work so well when the wheel cylinders are caked with desert dust! Pull the drums and check the wheel cylinders for good motion with a helper. You can upgrade to self adjusters with a combi-kit from a '63-4 Impala, had from a local store.
On my '57, I used reman '70's Chevelle calipers and master (new - Raybestos), Citation booster (reman) with two studs relocated to match the stock studs. I cut and drilled out the stock studs to mount the booster flush with the firewall. I have seen an early '60's Impalla booster used on a '56, bolts in. I would have gone that route, but had cut my studs by then. 
Use a combi-valve kit from CPP. Had the first one weep fluid - they replaced it with NO issues. CPP is a site sponsor, offers a LIFETIME WARRANTY on their stuff, Aaron offers good support on their CT forum here. What more can I say???
My '7 stops as well as my '01 Sonoma with ABS!!!
Check for engine vacuum at idle to support the booster. I'm getting by with 17", with a 3/4 cam in my 235 six. CPP recommends 18".
Any plans to use dropped spindles to lower the car? THAT can influence parts selection for rotors and bearings. Order the spindles FIRST... ask me how I know.
This should get you started. Aaron at CPP can take you to the next level with parts selection and tech advice. Ask for their Installation Guide with your order or check it out on their site - IT IS EXCELLENT!!!
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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03-16-12 11:14 AM - Post#2203429
In response to 6-bangertim
Super comprehensive response, Tim. 
I'd like to know more about using a factory booster, what diameter they are, what was re-drilled, etc. With its new, kinder, gentler cam, my 327 should make 18-20" vacuum, so I might make the leap to power brakes some day. I would like to mount the booster flush to the firewall, instead of having it hang out 3"-4" on a bracket. Not only would the look be cleaner, I've gotta think it would be a more rigid setup.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1864
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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03-16-12 01:49 PM - Post#2203477
In response to MikeB
THANKS, MIKE!!!
I'll guess that the early Impala is about 10-11" in diamater, under 3" thick. Uses a cantlever set-up on the back for the push rod if I recall. Same bolt pattern as our cars. Call Impala Bob's - maybe they can pull a unit off the shelf and e-mail some pics and measurements for you. Maybe Aaron at CPP could also help.
A club buddy opened up the Citation booster and knocked out two of the studs. Can't recall if they were the top or bottom set (maybe look at the firewall bracing). Used a junk stock master as a jig to drill new holes, then TIGed up the old ones. Cost me about $60 back in '07 for his labor.
Cutting the firewall studs was easy with a flat washer to keep the cut-off wheel from nicking the firewall. Reaching over the fender to drill out the studs was a PITA. I started with a 3/16" bit, then stepped up by 8th's. My holes were off by a little by the time I finished drilling the 3/8, so I fudged the lower (I think) pair and drilled them to 7/16". Sharp drills are a MUST, with back-ups!!!
I would give the early Impala a shot first. The Citation is a chubby, but does have a dual diaphram, around 8" across, will move the master out about 6-1/2".
Yep, I also just HATE those GAWD-AWEFUL adapter brackets that point the master skyward... 
I gotta be CAREFUL with the 'Widow - discs with NO BOOSTER...it stops, but nothing like the six.
Take Care Mike!
- Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-20-12 06:41 PM - Post#2205329
In response to Bruces 57
Thank You for the information. I will be doing as much research as I can as well as picking from others experiences. I also agree that cheep is not always best or good.
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chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-20-12 06:51 PM - Post#2205335
In response to 6-bangertim
Awesome information. I like the Use of a combi-valve kit from CPP. I have to learn more about the whole brakeing system. I just found out I need to upgrade to 15 inch wheels. Thanks again
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chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-20-12 06:57 PM - Post#2205340
In response to MikeB
I agree. I dont like them sticking out to far. I just dont know how much of a differance a dual diafragm booster makes compaired to a single 
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chevy guy
Forum Newbie
Posts: 23
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 07-30-10
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03-20-12 07:00 PM - Post#2205341
In response to 6-bangertim
It seems like a lot of people are happy with CCP their products and the info they offer
Thank You for all the information
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