 ranman
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03-02-12 01:10 AM - Post#2197382
I have a Haynes for my '73 1/2 ton, but what's a good repair manual for a 1993 S10?
I like the Haynes I have for the '73, but curious if there's anything you guys like better............... more model and year specific info for the S10.
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SleeperSS
Senior Member
Posts: 1812
Loc: Spanaway, Wa
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03-02-12 06:35 AM - Post#2197425
In response to ranman
The only good manual is a factotory manual. Haynes/Chilton are pretty generic. If you local library is any good, they will have repair manuals online. I found a year specific manual factory on Craigslist for $20. Ebay is another option.
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ranman
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03-02-12 10:28 AM - Post#2197485
In response to SleeperSS
The only good manual is a factotory manual. Haynes/Chilton are pretty generic. If you local library is any good, they will have repair manuals online. I found a year specific manual factory on Craigslist for $20. Ebay is another option.
Maybe I will just get a Haynes or Chilton to learn some basics. The truck is a 93 and I'm sure a lot of what I need right now will be in there............. and I still got all my CT buddies for the hard questions. 
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Edited by ranman on 03-02-12 10:30 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 gchemist
Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 20822
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
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03-02-12 11:13 AM - Post#2197512
In response to ranman
I bought a factory two book set for $30 on evilbay. It's come in handy. I've scanned several sections into PDF files. I send them out all the time to 4X4 owners. 4X4 problems are so common to our models.
'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'96 GMC Jimmy LS |
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ranman
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03-02-12 12:53 PM - Post#2197549
In response to gchemist
I bought a factory two book set for $30 on evilbay. It's come in handy. I've scanned several sections into PDF files. I send them out all the time to 4X4 owners. 4X4 problems are so common to our models.
Right now, the truck has a couple of issues that need addressing. Heater won't come on and windows attempt to go down, but won't. The truck has been setting outside for years and gets used intermittently as a garbage hauler....... so it got driven once every few months, and for a short distance.
I want to remove the door panels and see what the window motor connections look like and the condition of the window tracks to find out why they don't want to work.
I suspect a blown or missing fuse going to the heater's fan motor. It's gonna take a while to learn this 'new to me' vehicle, but for now, the heater/fan is important as are the power windows, because the truck also has "moisture issues"
(leaky windshield) and needs to get dehumidified badly. It has been setting so long I am concerned about the interior electrical stuff being it sat for so long in constant high humidity conditions.
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ranman
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03-02-12 12:59 PM - Post#2197557
In response to ranman
The truck has bad clear coat pealing condition too, and after taking it to the car wash to blast off the loose stuff, the check engine light is now on............ see why I need a manual? ....any manual will help right now. 
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 Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 2688
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03-02-12 03:21 PM - Post#2197627
In response to ranman
... and after taking it to the car wash to blast off the loose stuff, the check engine light is now on............ see why I need a manual? ....any manual will help right now.
Your 1993 is an OBD1 system.
Here are some web sites with the basics on retrieving codes, on OBD1 systems, without a scan tool or code reader.
Poor drawing of ALDL but ok instruction + codes
http://www.cfm-tech.com/gm_tbi_trouble_codes.htm
OBDI terminal identification
http://robertpowersmotors ports.freeservers.com/ima...
OBDI illustration and instructions
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
Good explanation
http://www.syty.org/old/d&e.html
Let us know what code you find.
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If the it has been altered from stock let us know about that too. |
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ranman
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03-02-12 06:30 PM - Post#2197701
In response to Chevytech
Thank you Chevtech. Neat info. the check engine light did not stay on today and I am going to go get the truck tonight. Might not have time to do the check, as it's getting close to sun down and I'm not in the frame of mind to play in the dark.
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ranman
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03-03-12 12:51 AM - Post#2197792
In response to ranman
If I understand it right, having the battery disconnected for a while (like a month or two ), gets rid of stored codes?
If so, I have a code 13........ If it's not a loose connection, what brand sensor should I get? Better yet, what should I avoid?
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Edited by ranman on 03-03-12 12:52 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 2688
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03-03-12 10:20 AM - Post#2197923
In response to ranman
If I understand it right, having the battery disconnected for a while (like a month or two ), gets rid of stored codes?
If the battery is disconnected the codes will be cleared in under one minute on your OBD1 vehicle.
If so, I have a code 13........ If it's not a loose connection, what brand sensor should I get? Better yet, what should I avoid?
I would avoid Bosch oxygen sensors. I have heard of many people having trouble with them.
More vehicle information would be helpful.
My guess is your vehicle has a 4.3 V6 with a heated oxygen sensor.
From the 1993 fuel & emissions service manual.
If it does have a 4.3 with a heated o2 sensor you can do these tests:
Disconnect the o2 sensor and connect a test light between terminal “A”
and terminal “B” of the harness (NOT of the sensor). Turn the key on and the test light should light.
Terminal “A” is white to the O2 sensor
Terminal “B” is white to the O2 sensor, and Black with a white stripe to the computer
Terminal “C” is black to the O2 sensor, and purple to the computer
You can test the resistance, of the sensor, on sensor wires between terminal “A” and terminal “B” and it should be between 3.5 ohms and 14 ohms.
Any testing beyond this should be done with a jumper harness installed. If you can’t find the problem and want to probe the wires (which I do not suggest) to do testing with the engine running, I can give you more tests to do.
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If the it has been altered from stock let us know about that too. |
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ranman
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03-03-12 12:43 PM - Post#2197972
In response to Chevytech
Thanks, I will do some checking.
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ranman
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03-03-12 01:25 PM - Post#2197980
In response to ranman
One wire on the sensor. Does that mean it has to be replaced with the same, or are ther provisions to hook up a heated one?
Don't know if it helps, but the emmissions/tuning sticker under the hood (I will assume it's original), Has these numbers.
4.3 liter
J3G4.3T5XEBX
JBO-3E
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Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
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03-03-12 04:35 PM - Post#2198039
In response to ranman
A one wire oxygen sensor is NOT a heated sensor.
I am pretty damn sure all 1993 4.3 liter S/T trucks had a heated O2 sensor.
I think the only 1993 S/T truck that had a one wire sensor was the 2.5 liter.
If you want to post the VIN number, and you can put xxxx for the last digits, I will see what year the truck is.
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If the it has been altered from stock let us know about that too. |
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ranman
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03-03-12 09:18 PM - Post#2198134
In response to Chevytech
A one wire oxygen sensor is NOT a heated sensor.
I am pretty damn sure all 1993 4.3 liter S/T trucks had a heated O2 sensor.
I think the only 1993 S/T truck that had a one wire sensor was the 2.5 liter.
If you want to post the VIN number, and you can put xxxx for the last digits, I will see what year the truck is.
I'm sure it should have the heated sensor and
I know the one wire is not a heated sensor....... Someone was going elcheapo........... same way that I need to go till I get funds to fix everything that needs fixin. Truck runs fine, so that's not top of the list.
I gave the vehicle info to a guy at NAPA and he said it only listed a 3 wire sensor, so is it a miracle that it's running???
.....or will a one wire still work, but with some warm up issues? It seems to be running relatively fine now. Idle is a little high upon start up, but dies back down quickly.
Since I have never owned anything with an O2 sensor, TBI and computer, I don't know how the engine should behave.
I also didn't follow to see where that single wire hooked up.
VIN
1GCCS19R9P819XXXX
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If plants ruled the world, would they regulate oxygen?
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Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 2688
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
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03-04-12 08:21 AM - Post#2198248
In response to ranman
I gave the vehicle info to a guy at NAPA and he said it only listed a 3 wire sensor, so is it a miracle that it's running???
No,
If the o2 sensor fails or is disconnected the system we run in the open loop mode, and will not adjust the mixture by using oxygen sensor readings. If the vehicle has no other problems it should run well but not have as good of fuel economy.
.....or will a one wire still work, but with some warm up issues?
Here is my understanding of why the S/T truck got heated O2 sensors before many other vehicles did. The early S/T trucks were having trouble with the O2 sensor cooling down at a prolonged idle and the system would switch back into open loop operation and then the tail pipe emission would rise. This problem was bad enough that some S/T trucks with the 4.3 liter engine could not pass emission testing.
A one wire sensor will work just fine driving down the freeway, but a heated O2 sensor is superior at idle, and gets the system controlling the mixture much quicker on engine start up.
It seems to be running relatively fine now. Idle is a little high upon start up, but dies back down quickly.
It should.
It sounds like the IAC is working well.
VIN
1GCCS19R9P819XXXX
US built, General Motors, Chevrolet, 2.8 Liter V6 TBI, 1993, plant Bowling Green Kentucky
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If the it has been altered from stock let us know about that too. |
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SleeperSS
Senior Member
Posts: 1812
Loc: Spanaway, Wa
Reg: 10-17-04
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03-04-12 11:17 AM - Post#2198317
In response to ranman
Your sticker says 4.3, but the vin says 2.8...pic of said engine??
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Keith_Knox
Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2724
Age: 71
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
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03-04-12 12:18 PM - Post#2198342
In response to ranman
My old 92 S10 pickup, son's now. I had to change out the complete heater and A/C control as the plastic switchs had broken behind the face plate. Same as your 93.
This was in Mar 09 with over 200,000 miles on it.
Got it from Rock Auto for $119 now $198. It was a delco switch.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,106 0973,...
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010.
1996 Chevy Monte Carlo
2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab
2013 F150 Crew Cab |
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ranman
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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03-04-12 12:48 PM - Post#2198362
In response to Chevytech
I gave the vehicle info to a guy at NAPA and he said it only listed a 3 wire sensor, so is it a miracle that it's running???
No,
If the o2 sensor fails or is disconnected the system we run in the open loop mode, and will not adjust the mixture by using oxygen sensor readings. If the vehicle has no other problems it should run well but not have as good of fuel economy.
.....or will a one wire still work, but with some warm up issues?
Here is my understanding of why the S/T truck got heated O2 sensors before many other vehicles did. The early S/T trucks were having trouble with the O2 sensor cooling down at a prolonged idle and the system would switch back into open loop operation and then the tail pipe emission would rise. This problem was bad enough that some S/T trucks with the 4.3 liter engine could not pass emission testing.
A one wire sensor will work just fine driving down the freeway, but a heated O2 sensor is superior at idle, and gets the system controlling the mixture much quicker on engine start up.
It seems to be running relatively fine now. Idle is a little high upon start up, but dies back down quickly.
It should.
It sounds like the IAC is working well.
VIN
1GCCS19R9P819XXXX
US built, General Motors, Chevrolet, 2.8 Liter V6 TBI, 1993, plant Bowling Green Kentucky
That's all good to know.
If the 02 sensor is bad, I may replace it for now with another one wire........... I really have no funds for doing all the fixing/tuneup stuff that this rig needs right now.
Tranny fluid and filter is today's project because the fluid isn't a nice color. Tranny shifts solid.
I dug up the VIN info and saw the 2.8 also. The engine's heads have center bolts and has straight plug holes, not angled.
I am wondering if an engine swap was done and the old exhaust system might have been re-used, including the 02 sensor?
Then again, I bet the exhaust pipes would not mate up the same with a 2.8 and a 4.3
I suppose I need to find out exactly which engine is in this rig.
How do I ID the engine?
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SleeperSS
Senior Member
Posts: 1812
Loc: Spanaway, Wa
Reg: 10-17-04
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03-04-12 03:28 PM - Post#2198444
In response to ranman
I don't know....post a pic maybe.
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ranman
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 10674
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03-04-12 03:36 PM - Post#2198447
In response to SleeperSS
I don't know....post a pic maybe.
I'm an old film guy.......... don't have a digital.
You want an engine photo or the 02 unit location?
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If plants ruled the world, would they regulate oxygen?
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SleeperSS
Senior Member
Posts: 1812
Loc: Spanaway, Wa
Reg: 10-17-04
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03-04-12 09:22 PM - Post#2198596
In response to ranman
Just a pic of the engine for confirmation.
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ranman
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
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03-06-12 12:34 AM - Post#2199060
In response to SleeperSS
Can't do any photos, so ya gotta trust me
It is a 4.3 and apparently without the balancer shaft because of the shape of the timing cover. Timing cover is the same as my 350.
No "Vortec" stickers or fancy colors on the rocker arm covers. Just black on black.
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If plants ruled the world, would they regulate oxygen?
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Edited by ranman on 03-06-12 12:38 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 2688
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
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03-06-12 01:04 PM - Post#2199237
In response to ranman
Sorry for the delay – it’s getting nice out and I am starting some projects.
Someone probably did and engine & transmission swap using an older 4.3
Google search for engine and transmission ID number charts and see what you have in your truck.
If it worked ok for an extended period with a one wire sensor, you could put a new one wire O2 sensor in, and see if it repairs the code issue.
The diagnostics are different for a one wire oxygen sensor. If you want to do testing before you buy a new one I can give you instructions.
Note: If it gets any warmer outside I will not be making to the board much more until we get bad weather.
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If the it has been altered from stock let us know about that too. |
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ranman
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 10674
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03-07-12 12:07 AM - Post#2199459
In response to Chevytech
Thanks, I still need to find where the ID numbers are located on the tranny and engine. Wet and cold isn't outdoor 'workin on vehicles' weather.
Not sure if the one wire sensor ever caused issues other than the code warning. It might have had that warning come up from the first day it was installed........... which upon looking at it visually, was many many moons ago.
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If plants ruled the world, would they regulate oxygen?
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Edited by ranman on 03-07-12 12:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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