Charlie57
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2950
Loc: Lebanon, Tennessee
Reg: 03-30-08
|
02-12-12 04:26 PM - Post#2189940
I did not want to mount my emergency cable in the stock location. I have thought about not hooking up the cable at all but what I would like to do is hide everything below the floor and use an electric actuator for operation.
Has anything tried this?
Charlie
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
|
02-12-12 04:57 PM - Post#2189959
In response to Charlie57
I think doing that would make it an Electric Parking Brake vs an Emergency Brake, just MHO. Don't think I'd experiment with that.
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
'09 Avalanche LTZ |
|
elkhornranger
Contributor
Posts: 289
Loc: Northern Colorado
Reg: 04-11-06
|
02-12-12 05:50 PM - Post#2189977
In response to CharlieC
Right or wrong Charley, this is what I am doing. With the under dash panel and kick panel full of speakers and electronics I could find no place to put e brake in near stock location. A bench seat kept from putting in center of car so it will be between door and seat hand brake. The lokar set up and cables sure made a lot cleaner underneath too.
Cole
|
 MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9389
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
|
02-12-12 07:22 PM - Post#2190015
In response to elkhornranger
Cole, I'd like to see pictures of where the cables run.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
|
|
elkhornranger
Contributor
Posts: 289
Loc: Northern Colorado
Reg: 04-11-06
|
02-12-12 07:46 PM - Post#2190031
In response to MikeB
Here you go Mike. The first shows the hardware and the cable to the ds brake is pretty straight forward. The second pic shows how the psg side cable crosses over and then into brake.
cole
|
Charlie57
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2950
Loc: Lebanon, Tennessee
Reg: 03-30-08
|
02-12-12 09:03 PM - Post#2190072
In response to elkhornranger
Cole, I never thought about putting on the side. I'll have to look at that with mine. I am building a center console and really did not have room to install it at the console.
Charlie
|
MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9389
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
|
02-13-12 06:26 AM - Post#2190134
In response to elkhornranger
Cole, are brackets and cables all Lokar components, or did you have to fab any of them?
Sure cleans up the stock cable and lever setup and resolves exhaust interference issues.  And I'd bet it's easier to pull upward on that lever than outward on the stock T-handle.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
|
Edited by MikeB on 02-13-12 06:29 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
cnbell
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 8682
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 04-14-04
|
02-13-12 11:49 AM - Post#2190266
In response to MikeB
Cole, that is a great set up for the E-brake.
Thanks for posting it...
|
2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3875
Age: 71
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
|
02-13-12 11:58 AM - Post#2190268
In response to elkhornranger
...... it will be between door and seat hand brake. The lokar set up and cables sure made a lot cleaner underneath too.
Cole
Cole, that is exactly what I want to do with my 55 gasser setup, just hadn't gotten around to looking for parts yet. I just looked on Summit and couldnt find it yet, do you have the part numbers handy?
I've been keeping an eye out for something old I could rig up in that location, but haven't run across anything just yet, so it looks like it is Lokar time for me too. I did something similiar for the transfer case shifter on my 55 pickup when I did my 4x4 conversion. I put an old 3/4" drive torque whench on a shifter mechanism at that same location along side the bench seat, it works great. That prompted me to want to do the emergency brake in the same place.
If you have part numbers handy that would be a great help!
Aloha,
Willy
UPDATE: OK, I found it on Summit, this is the black powder coated one, which would go well with my rig:
Lokar XEHB7000F - Lokar Emergency Hand Brakes
Now to figure out the rest of the parts needed to do that. Man, there sure are a whole selection of cable kits....
Thanks for the lead....
W.
Slow Old Man=Fast Old Cars
PictureTrail
2Loose
Chevys:55.Hardtop;55.4drgasser;
55.4x4truck;58.prostreettruck
+57.Olds;70.BuickGS
Avatar:Bill Stinson |
Edited by 2Loose on 02-13-12 12:12 PM. Reason for edit: Found part number
|
elkhornranger
Contributor
Posts: 289
Loc: Northern Colorado
Reg: 04-11-06
|
02-13-12 12:18 PM - Post#2190278
In response to 2Loose
Mike it is all Lokar brackets except for a couple of spacers I used to drop the cables down below the body mount. I have since seen somebody else put a bulhead fitting through the body mount and wish i had thought about that.
I will look up the part numbers when I get home, I am pretty sure I got from speedway motors and it was a universal kit on the cables that would work with either disk or drum brakes.
Before the days of lokar making stuff easy, I used mustang and pinto e brake handle and cables from a truck supply company on a couple of street rods. I kind of miss the days of making stuff instead of buying it, but I am spoiled now.
Cole
|
 jeffs55
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11691
Age: 54
Loc: Shelby Forest, Tennessee
Reg: 01-05-06
|
02-13-12 04:33 PM - Post#2190323
In response to elkhornranger
That's why more car show signs read like an advertisement for aftermarket companies.
And how the term "belly button cars" was coined.
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the aftermarket we have these days. I've used them a LOT.
But I would like to put more "made by owner" items on my list than
"made by (fill in blank)".
Very nice set up Cole.
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
I actually own 2 Chevys now!
My Pics
|
|
elkhornranger
Contributor
Posts: 289
Loc: Northern Colorado
Reg: 04-11-06
|
02-13-12 07:22 PM - Post#2190384
In response to jeffs55
2Loose, confirmed I did get from Speedway Motors and handle is part # 4917000 and the universal cable kit was #49180FU
Jeff, I am most proud of the stuff I made, half proud of the stuff I bought and modified to make work and least proud of the belly button stuff I just bought because I am in a hurry. I really hate the stuff I bought that turned out to be junk
I love seeing the homemade stuff good and bad
cole
|
bowtieboy56
Contributor
Posts: 111
Loc: new zealand
Reg: 05-01-11
|
02-14-12 01:09 AM - Post#2190461
In response to elkhornranger
yeah well i weakened and bought a lokar hand brake just because it was chrome and looked cool and i couldnt find anything in the wreckers that looked anything near as cool...but having said that i made my cables that hook too it... :toast:i too enjoy making my parts but even more making parts from other cars work on my toys as there is sense of appilied knowledge in it  haha
shoebox's spin my wheels  |
|
2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3875
Age: 71
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
|
02-14-12 09:37 AM - Post#2190550
In response to elkhornranger
............ I used mustang and pinto e brake handle and cables from a truck supply company on a couple of street rods. I kind of miss the days of making stuff instead of buying it............
Cole
Cole, one of the problems I deal with living on Maui is that land is deemed "too valuable" to be putting a wrecking yard on it, and taking up space with "old junk cars that ought to be crushed......." But there is a very busy crusher here, and the steel mostly goes to China these days.
There is no place to go here to look for an old Pinto hand brake or anything else like that. Many of us over the years here have set up our own "parts yards", I had 14 60's and early 70's Oldsmobiles stashed away in a cane field for a long time. Removed and hauled home both small block and big block Olds motors, th 350s and 400s, Moncie 4sp's, steering boxes, rear axles, steering columns, Even a couple of '70 Buick 455's and th400s, then I was "evicted" by the land owner and everything still there had to go to the crusher, but by then I had gotten most of the parts I wanted out of there and stored in my own shed. One of those motors, the steering box, steering column, rear end (ford truck) and some other parts in my gasser project came out of that shed.
Me and the guys I hang out with do as much fab as we can, but we are sure glad that places like Lokar, Danchuck, Speedway and others exist, or we wouldn't be finding these parts at all! I was lucky enough to find a pair of 2 dr sedan doors, usable but in rough shape, on Oahu (another enthusiast!), as one day I would like to convert my gasser from a 4dr to a 2dr. Or not!
Regarding the original post here I think an electrical activated emergency/parking brake could be very dangerous, I wouldn't want to try it. Your solution with this Lokar brake is a very, very nice solution to that, thanks for posting that info.
The numbers Summit is showing are different than the one you showed, but I think it is the same unit. Summit also shows many cable kits, many of them labeled "universal", haven't studied it enough yet to find out the differences, but will find out, as I am going to do one pretty much like you did. And I like the hint of going through the chassis member.
I've gone to using Summit a lot as they always have the best shipping rates to Hawaii. Don't know why, but they always beat Jegs or the smaller guys like Danchuck, everytime I check several sources, Summit comes out best, and they have always been good to deal with on returns. Speedway is pretty good too.
Aloha all,
Willy
|
jeffs55
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11691
Age: 54
Loc: Shelby Forest, Tennessee
Reg: 01-05-06
|
02-14-12 04:32 PM - Post#2190672
In response to 2Loose
....but there is a very busy crusher here, and the steel mostly goes to China these days.
So that's where they get their metal for making things like my new AC/Delco accumulator... 
The thing, to me, about an electric parking brake is it's electric.
It has to get its power from the battery.
How long will the battery hold it before it runs down.
Now you come out to a car that you left at the top of a hill at the bottom of the hill and it won't start either.
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
I actually own 2 Chevys now!
My Pics
|
|
MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9389
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
|
02-14-12 09:34 PM - Post#2190784
In response to jeffs55
Maybe you could find some kind of "latching" electric-actuated valve. Turning a switch to one position sends a momentary 12 volts to close the valve while you are holding your foot on the brakes. Then turning it to another position sends 12 volts to open the valve. In other words, current from the battery is used only to open and close the valve, but not to hold it in either position.
Not that I'd do it. 
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
|
Edited by MikeB on 02-14-12 09:40 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
5Larry7
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1675
Loc: Dallas, TX
Reg: 05-17-04
|
02-14-12 09:52 PM - Post#2190788
In response to elkhornranger
I did much the same thing in my '51 Studebaker that I am building. I used a Lokar cable setup and a Toyota handle. It was a bit challenging running the RH cable to keep it away from the driveshaft.
'57 210, Blown 327 cid, Holley HP TBI, 700R4, A/C
'51 Studebaker Starlite coupe, 350, TH400, GV OD.
'08 Corvette Jetstream Blue coupe.
'96 Replica of a 1950's Teardrop Trailer. |
Edited by 5Larry7 on 02-14-12 09:53 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
sedandelivery55
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2735
Age: 53
Loc: Moore, OK
Reg: 02-20-02
|
02-14-12 09:54 PM - Post#2190789
In response to MikeB
Maybe you could find some kind of "latching" electric-actuated valve. Turning a switch to one position sends a momentary 12 volts to close the valve while you are holding your foot on the brakes. Then turning it to another position sends 12 volts to open the valve. In other words, current from the battery is used only to open and close the valve, but not to hold it in either position.
Not that I'd do it.
A line lock system on the rear brakes? I like it! 
I've needed to do something with my emergency brakes since I bought the car. Since it's an automatic, it hasn't been that big a deal and I've put it off for ten years. I didn't think of using something like a Pinto hand brake but if it's a possibility, I know where there's an old Pinto sitting in a field.
|
2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3875
Age: 71
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
|
02-14-12 11:14 PM - Post#2190808
In response to sedandelivery55
I ordered the Lokar parts today for my gasser project....
Great idea...
Aloha,
Willy
|
 abyars
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 627
Age: 40
Loc: Decatur, Alabama
Reg: 06-01-04
|
02-15-12 10:45 AM - Post#2190907
In response to 2Loose
Cole, that's a great setup. Thanks for posting it.
|
jeffs55
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11691
Age: 54
Loc: Shelby Forest, Tennessee
Reg: 01-05-06
|
02-15-12 03:26 PM - Post#2190989
In response to abyars
My car had line locs on both front and rear lines when I got it.
Neither were wired up.
I wondered if their idea was to lock the fronts for burnouts and then lock the rear for launch.
I don't know, but there's only one to the front now and it doesn't go above the MC like the pic above.
Couldn't figure out why my brakes were so bad.
Someone pointed that out to me and it clicked in my head then.
DUH! All redone now.
You can just see the solenoid behind the "17".
I still need to do some tweaking on my E brake.
(back on topic) I have an F9 rear and I used some original (old) 55 or 57 cables I had bought off a guy. They seem long. I can pull the handle out and it barely drags.
I've adjusted the adjuster all the way and even made a new lever with more "pull travel".
Not sure what's going on.
Maybe I need to just get new cables, but they seemed to be free enough before I put them on.
Not stiff or stuck.
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
I actually own 2 Chevys now!
My Pics
|
|
elkhornranger
Contributor
Posts: 289
Loc: Northern Colorado
Reg: 04-11-06
|
02-15-12 08:17 PM - Post#2191099
In response to jeffs55
Now you come out to a car that you left at the top of a hill at the bottom of the hill and it won't start either
I cant quit laughing about this, it is the kind of stuff that happens to me you cant make up
|
leoposter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 2
Reg: 11-01-11
|
02-16-12 02:50 AM - Post#2191154
In response to elkhornranger
I didn't experience this yet. But my friends have bad experiences for this. Some of them experience a terrible car problem. I think thi simply entails that we must double our safety precaution guys. Recently,
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration had begun a preliminary investigation into some Toyota Camry, Camry Solara and RAV 4 models over several customers complained of possible fires in the driver's door. The federal safety regulator is not, however, issuing a recall at this time.
Source for this article: NHTSA probes Toyota Camry and RAV 4 over door fires.
A simple car awareness!
|
2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3875
Age: 71
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
|
02-16-12 09:41 AM - Post#2191239
In response to leoposter
The concept of safety as we modify our cars needs to be on the forefront of our thinking. I often miss things my buddies see and we correct it, quickly! It's good to have many pairs of eyes looking at our modifications, one of the reasons why I post here.
Probably a good time to start a fresh thread on just this subject.
Can I quote you guys?
Aloha,
Willy
|
65_Impala
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1607
Reg: 12-29-02
|
02-16-12 06:25 PM - Post#2191422
In response to Charlie57
I understand some new cars have electric parking brakes. You could look at what they use. Maybe one has some kind of racheting electric pull motor.
Peter
|
2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3875
Age: 71
Loc: Sandwich Isles
Reg: 03-17-03
|
02-16-12 11:01 PM - Post#2191520
In response to 65_Impala
Do you have any info on which make those cars are? Would be interesting to find out. In the meantime, my Locar pull brake showed up today!
Willy
|
Charlie57
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2950
Loc: Lebanon, Tennessee
Reg: 03-30-08
|
02-17-12 10:53 AM - Post#2191653
In response to 2Loose
Sorry guys, I have been reading the response but have not had time to explain more of what I am after. Actuators are very, very common in the motor home business, they are used to raise and hold tv, drop them from the ceiling, open door and hold them open. There is a company called
http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php
I called them this morning and talked about the emergency cable, they said this is done often (Dang, I thought I was going to be the first). The actuator can be mounted in the transmission area under the car, it is splash rated, but not pressure wash the bottom of your car rated. You can buy them with different strokes lengths and force to pull from 15 pounds to 150. They operate by 12 volt so you can mount a toggle switch for on or off.
I have a question, since my brake is not installed how much pressure do you have to take to pull the handle and how far does the handle travel. They gave me this rule of thumb at Firgelli’s
15-22 lb actuator needed if you can pull the handle with your pinky
35 lb actuator needed if you can pull the handle with your index finger
150 lb actuator needed if you need your hand to pull the cable.
Charlie
Here is a link to something I think might work. I need more details before picking on out. http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=92&products _id=66
|
jeffs55
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 11691
Age: 54
Loc: Shelby Forest, Tennessee
Reg: 01-05-06
|
02-17-12 05:03 PM - Post#2191766
In response to Charlie57
Ahhhhh a linear actuator.
Now that puts a different spin on things.
It's basically an electric motor driving a screw with the load attached to a "nut" that runs up and down the screw (to over simplify things).
Once the nut is run up (tension put on the cable) the screw holds the pressure.
There's no electric power needed anymore.
Until you unscrew it to release the pressure.
Yeah, that would work.
With some clever design work on your cable routing, you could mount it on the side like Cole did his handle.
Jeff
55 Handyman
66 F100 project
32 3 Window Coupe project
1996 Silverado short bed extended cab
I actually own 2 Chevys now!
My Pics
|
|
 Coaldalecar
"5th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 187
Loc: High River, Alberta, Cana...
Reg: 10-10-08
|
02-17-12 06:57 PM - Post#2191814
In response to jeffs55
This is the setup I'm going to try. Electricity does not hold the brake on but only applies it.
http://www.motortopia.com/worldofrods/tech/give -me...
Alan Klassen, High River, Alberta, Canada
1952 Chev 2Dr Sedan Deluxe, 99 Olds Alero, 02 Chev Silverado Ext Cab |
|
CharlieC
Senior Member
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flower Mound, TX,
Reg: 03-27-02
|
02-17-12 08:57 PM - Post#2191854
In response to Charlie57
I'm a guy that runs with scissors, so being a nervous Nellie is not something I'm usually accused of being. But I have to ask this question...
The thread topic started with a question on your Emergency Brake. The thread has morphed into an Electric Parking Brake. Do you consider them to be one and the same? I think an Electric Parking Brake is a great idea, as long as you also have a manual way to stop the car if you need to in a pinch. You know, like in an Emergency.
Charlie
"Yeah, I'm just going to clean it up and make it a driver." May 2002
'57 BelAir Conv. GMPP LSX/L92-440 T-56 (almost...)
'74 K5 Blazer 4x4
'09 Avalanche LTZ |
|
This
Forum is Sponsored by
bobsclassicchevy.com
|
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
ThomasG
Attachment: 
