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LGriffin
Member
Posts: 406
Age: 67
Loc: Gateway to Yosemite
Reg: 04-16-04
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10-31-11 01:40 PM - Post#2153112
I need some help form those that have worked on these new chassis more than I have. I have an oil leak under the radiator. I assumed it was trans fluid. I decided to fix it today, crawled under the motorhome and looked at the line connections. Didn't see any oil on the connections, there was oil on the clamp holding the lines to the frame. I checked the connections to see if they were tight. As I was checking the fittings more oil dripped from where the clamp was. I took a closer look at the clamp, and thought OH No. Someone wasn't thinking of dissimilar metals when they put it together. There was more aluminum on the clamp than the alum line where they met. That's the good news, problem found.
The bad news is that the lines are no longer available from GM. I have not seen this connection before on a vehicle. It appears to be 3/8 aluminum line thru a drilled out lug nut. On the connection side of the nut the line looks like it has been compressed to form a washer around the line. It also looks like the diameter has been changed on the line as well. Has anyone run into this type of connection? It maybe metric what do I replace it with? If I have to replace the lines from the motor to the cooler, are the fittings in the block metric?
Larry
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink.
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motorman
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5037
Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
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10-31-11 02:21 PM - Post#2153134
In response to LGriffin
I need some help form those that have worked on these new chassis more than I have. I have an oil leak under the radiator. I assumed it was trans fluid. I decided to fix it today, crawled under the motorhome and looked at the line connections. Didn't see any oil on the connections, there was oil on the clamp holding the lines to the frame. I checked the connections to see if they were tight. As I was checking the fittings more oil dripped from where the clamp was. I took a closer look at the clamp, and thought OH No. Someone wasn't thinking of dissimilar metals when they put it together. There was more aluminum on the clamp than the alum line where they met. That's the good news, problem found.
The bad news is that the lines are no longer available from GM. I have not seen this connection before on a vehicle. It appears to be 3/8 aluminum line thru a drilled out lug nut. On the connection side of the nut the line looks like it has been compressed to form a washer around the line. It also looks like the diameter has been changed on the line as well. Has anyone run into this type of connection? It maybe metric what do I replace it with? If I have to replace the lines from the motor to the cooler, are the fittings in the block metric?
Larry
cut off the lines from the aluminum block and drill and tap for NTP hose fitting. use pushloc hose fittings and hose
| retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way |
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LGriffin
Member
Posts: 406
Age: 67
Loc: Gateway to Yosemite
Reg: 04-16-04
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10-31-11 06:11 PM - Post#2153238
In response to motorman
I looked at the push lock connections and they look like a good system to replace all the existing line. Drilling and tapping on a motor that is in use is not IMO the best choice, but it can be done. Unfortunately that doesn't solve the connection to the cooler/condenser. Someone said it looked like an AC fitting I checked those and they look correct, but they are the wrong gender to work.
Larry
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink.
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 stumppuller
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 449
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
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10-31-11 10:43 PM - Post#2153306
In response to LGriffin
If these are similar to the 88-98 pickup oil cooler lines, you could reuse the fitting and a short length of the original pipe at the rad. Cut and flare the other end, 37 degree single or 45 degree double flare should work fine. I did this using AN fittings and hose from summit racing. Lots of guys have new hose's made up at a hydraulic shop, which could cut and flare the pipe for you as well.
As for tapping the block adapter for NPT, just remove it. There are 2 allen head bolts under the oil filter, or 2 hex bolts if the filter is mounted sideways on the adapter. You will need 1 replacement gasket and 1 O-ring when reinstalling.
-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20 |
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motorman
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5037
Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
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10-31-11 11:16 PM - Post#2153310
In response to stumppuller
you can also use swagelok to hose fittings on the tubing ends if you don't have a flaring tool. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdthSQDH8qk
| retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way |
Edited by motorman on 10-31-11 11:24 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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LGriffin
Member
Posts: 406
Age: 67
Loc: Gateway to Yosemite
Reg: 04-16-04
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11-01-11 08:54 AM - Post#2153417
In response to motorman
I have the flaring tool. I guess I could use the original aluminum line and flare it. The run some hose or tubing between flared fittings. Though flaring aluminum doesn't sound good. Here's a link to a fitting on that auction site.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160494616827?ssPa geName=ST...
It would work, except that I need the female version a nut that goes over the tubing. Which I haven't found.
Larry
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink.
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