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Username Post: 1950 Fleetline Master Cylinder replacement!        (Topic#270726)
Chooch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 24
Chooch
Loc: City of Angels
Reg: 09-10-11
10-17-11 10:13 AM - Post#2148188    

Well after a week of procrastination...it's now time to replace my Master Cylinder on my 50 Fleetline. I've read everything i could find about this removal process, but still don't feel confident with my knowledge. I think i can get the "Pedal Shaft Lock Pin" out. It's just everything is hidden...it's like working blind.
I have several other questions. Does anyone have a tutorial about removing th MC on a 50? Like what holds brake pedal onto "Push rod Assembly"!
I will take any info or pictures on this subject...it all makes me a bit nervous...but i'm rolling up the sleeves and jumping in!
Thanks for any help in advance.

Edited by Chooch on 10-17-11 10:14 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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kensluys 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 862

Loc: Bellingham, WA, USA
Reg: 04-18-01
10-17-11 03:31 PM - Post#2148277    
    In response to Chooch

I had difficulty with the step in the shop manual that says "Remove clutch and brake pedal extension pivot shafts from the main cylinder body." I had not detached the pedal shafts (that go up through the floorboard) from the extension shafts, and don't think the shop manual said to. But if you don't, then you are trying to move the extension shafts sideways while the pedal shafts are holding them from moving sideways. So I just unbolted the pedal shafts from the pivot shafts and bolted them up again when done. That sounds pretty confusing, but check out the pictures in the shop manual and you'll see what I mean. It is a little tricky to do this by yourself, but it is do-able.

The area where the master cylinder bolts to the frame collects lots of greasy dirt, so I took time to clean it up a bit after I took the master cylinder off. It's a pain since you can't get your head up there.

One other thing came up for me. I replaced my brake lines at the same time, and found that they didn't line up exactly with the master cylinder. It turned out to be easier to loosen the bolts that hold the master cylinder to the frame so that I could shift it around a bit. Then I got the brake fittings started in the master cylinder, then tightened the attachment bolts, and THEN snugged the brake fittings down. The shop manual has you tighten the attachment bolts first then put the pedal extensions in and hook them up, and then attach the brake lines. That didn't work well for me.

Here's a picture of the brake attachment to the master cylinder:


Attachment: Master_Cyl_2a.jpg (135.63 KB) 61 View(s)

1951 Bel Air - January build date.


 
MajesticsCanada 
Member
Posts: 373
MajesticsCanada
Loc: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Reg: 08-27-06
10-17-11 04:43 PM - Post#2148308    
    In response to kensluys

I just removed the pedals where they go through the floor, and pull the rest of the assembly out as one. It is really fairly simple once you get under there. You will have no problems.


 
bobg1951chevy 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 6578
bobg1951chevy
Age: 71
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
10-17-11 10:54 PM - Post#2148430    
    In response to Chooch

Master cylinder is known as "main cylinder" in shop manual. Buy one, it will be your best investment !

Click below .....


http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/...
Bob G.

1951 Styleline Deluxe 2 dr sedan. 1955 235" 3 speed std.
1951 Styleline Deluxe Sport Coupe. 1962 246" 3 speed std. o/d.

www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/215790 56...








 
Chooch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 24
Chooch
Loc: City of Angels
Reg: 09-10-11
10-18-11 06:57 PM - Post#2148745    
    In response to kensluys

Wow thanks alot for the picture!! It will really help!!
And the info as well!! Parts on order, should be here in a few days...hope to get it done this weekend.
Thanks again!

 
Chooch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 24
Chooch
Loc: City of Angels
Reg: 09-10-11
10-18-11 07:00 PM - Post#2148746    
    In response to MajesticsCanada

Thanks...i think i'm gonna go this route...i hate working blind...and i can't see sh!t up there!!
So if i just disconnect the push rod...the rest will just drop out..that is after i detach the line and mounting bolts?!?!

 
bobg1951chevy 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 6578
bobg1951chevy
Age: 71
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
10-18-11 08:56 PM - Post#2148789    
    In response to Chooch

read the directions i sent from the manual !
Bob G.

1951 Styleline Deluxe 2 dr sedan. 1955 235" 3 speed std.
1951 Styleline Deluxe Sport Coupe. 1962 246" 3 speed std. o/d.

www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/215790 56...








 
Chooch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 24
Chooch
Loc: City of Angels
Reg: 09-10-11
10-22-11 10:12 PM - Post#2150112    
    In response to Chooch

Okay i just finished yanking my old Master cylinder out and swapping it for a brand new one!
What a job! Not hard, just many things i would have done different if i'd known...thats why i'm writing this post!

After getting all my tools and stuff together i decided to pull the old Master Cylinder out of my 50. (Peddle went to the floor on the way home from Bob's cruise night lastweek.)
I had heard that it was easier to take the peddles off at the firewall and leave them on the MC, so you wouldn't have to mess with that fishing out of the cylinder key that holds the peddles on the MC. So i went that route.
Had to remove a gravel guard pice in order to even get to the peddles at the fire wall. I got them both loose with little to no problem. (Liquid Wrench is our friend)
I then loosened the 2 attachment bolts. got the lines detached...but realized then i needed to remove the rod from the emergency brake in order to get the MC out! I should have done this before i blindly and pains taking fished my flair wrench up there!!! Much more room with out it! Also attacking it from both the side and down the center underneath worked out well!
But once i got it all free...i realized i was never gonna get it out between the frame and the exhaust with the pedal arms attached (the clutch peddle has a L arm which is hard to fish around.

So i knew i had to take the peddle arms off!!
but i couldn't get enough leverage to get the cap off the back where the cylinder key is. So i had to go back and put the MC back in place...and bolt it back down!! Grrrrrr!!
After i got it fastened i took the cap off and fished out the key...this actually came out quite easy!
Peddles off MC came out no problem!!



Preped the new MC and crawled back under to install the new one.



(I used corks to keep the new MC from dripping,after the old one made a mess of my garage floor!!:)

I stated with the lines since i knew it would help get them started if i could move the MC around a bit...and it did..went back on with ease!!
Now i attached the MC to the frame. Then the peddles...pushed the key back in and attached cap.
Now to hook the clutch back up. I couldn't get the bolt back into the clutch without loosing the attachment bolts again and freeing the MC so that i could move it to get the clutch linkage hooked up. Grrrrrrrrrr!!
Now for the brake attachment from the arm to the push rod...i couldn't get the bolt between the two peddle arms...so i knew i was going to have to take them off again!! Grrrrrrrrr!!
Removed cap...fished out key....loosened peddle arms enough to get the bolt between!!
Put it all back together again...and i was done!

Things i learned!

1. Don't try to remove MC with peddle arms intact.
2. Don't bolt down attachment bolt till end, just place bolts in place to hold it!
3. Don't put key cylinder in until both peddles are completely attached (springs and all!)

Oh yeah and i should have put something down on my garage floor!! The coffee can didn't catch half of what hit the floor!!

All in all it was a good day!
Piece of cake!

 
OldDad 
Senior Member
Posts: 1921
OldDad
Age: 70
Loc: The Great NorthWest
Reg: 06-06-04
10-23-11 08:14 AM - Post#2150206    
    In response to Chooch

Good information your lucky someone had already replaced the master cylinder before. I had an original in my 52 and had to brake the retainer to get the shaft off. I'm going to file your article in my Tom Parson's tech file in case I live long enough to have to do this again.
The S.O.B. from the factory...
71 1/2 ton, 64 Chevelle SS, 57 2dr Hardtop, 57 2dr Sedan, 57 Corvette, 52 2dr Hardtop, 52 2dr Sedan, and now a 49 Plymouth Coupe


 
Kaygee 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 36
Kaygee
Loc: Ontario Canada
Reg: 11-02-08
10-23-11 09:48 AM - Post#2150239    
    In response to OldDad

Aaah!! Welcome to the wonderful world of old Chevies. Where they pay engineers truckloads of bucks to design a part so that it is in the hardest possible place to get at when you need to work on it! Where, of the 4 bolts holding the part on, the first 3 are easily accessible and come off easily while the 4th is almost impossible to see or reach, and will be frozen solid when you do get to it! Where a small part, like a hood, is held on with 4 bolts, but a big part, like an inspection cover on a door, takes 10 bolts to secure!!

 
kensluys 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 862

Loc: Bellingham, WA, USA
Reg: 04-18-01
10-23-11 12:22 PM - Post#2150300    
    In response to Kaygee

Thanks for the update!

As you can see from the picture I posted earlier, I don't have my clutch linkage in place yet. Based on your experience, it sounds like I have a little surprise in store for me when I go to do that!
1951 Bel Air - January build date.


 
Chooch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 24
Chooch
Loc: City of Angels
Reg: 09-10-11
10-23-11 02:31 PM - Post#2150338    
    In response to kensluys

Yes it cones out slot easier then it goes in! Just loosen the attachment bolts so you have a bit of play in the MC and wiggle alot!! Becareful not the bend or break lines, but it'll move enough to get the bolt back into the clutch!

 
Chooch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 24
Chooch
Loc: City of Angels
Reg: 09-10-11
10-25-11 04:38 PM - Post#2151162    
    In response to Chooch

Okay i thought it was over!
Today when i went to bleed the brakes...i noticed that my peddle arm doesn't seem to go all the way down without binding in the floor board!!
Does anyone know what i need to do to fix this?
I read in the book about Toe Kick adjustment...but not sure i understand how to adjust?!
Can someone help please!?!?


 
MajesticsCanada 
Member
Posts: 373
MajesticsCanada
Loc: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Reg: 08-27-06
10-25-11 08:03 PM - Post#2151251    
    In response to Chooch

It might just be when you reattached your pedal that goes through the floor it wasnt adjusted right and it binds on the floor. That is the what happened to me when i put mine back todether.


 
50hotrod 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 557
50hotrod
Age: 57
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
10-26-11 11:21 AM - Post#2151435    
    In response to Chooch

  • Chooch Said:
Okay i thought it was over!
Today when i went to bleed the brakes...i noticed that my peddle arm doesn't seem to go all the way down without binding in the floor board!!
Does anyone know what i need to do to fix this?
I read in the book about Toe Kick adjustment...but not sure i understand how to adjust?!
Can someone help please!?!?




Ok, here goes,

The rod going through the floor that the peddle is on is bolted to the arm that pivots on the master cylinder to actuate the cylinder piston.

Were the rod bolts to the pivot arm is where you adjust it so it doesn't rub the body. Hope this helps.


Well, you know what's wrong with the world today

People done gone put their Bible's away

They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land

"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels



 
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