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Username Post: Hard Start, rough idle, some hesitation, random misfire randomly        (Topic#241522)
jbirch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 44

Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
05-06-10 11:06 PM - Post#1911152    

1998 C1500 5.0L 144k

Hey guys,

My truck has, for several months, been getting progressively harder and harder to start. It began with just a little bit longer crank. Then it got longer, and longer. It used to happen intermittently; I could have a problem starting it at home, drive to the store and then it start easily after the store or vice versa. There was no real rhyme or reason to when it would act up.

In recent weeks it began to idle rough when sitting at stoplights with my foot on the brake. Even more recently, it has begun to have some hesitation in acceleration from the stop at those stoplights. The longer I sit at the light, the more it stumbles/hesitates when I try to go. Then today my SES light came on while sitting in traffic, stopped. I played my poker game then drove to AZ and had the code read: random misfire (was 0300 i think). I left AZ and headed home and my light went off and never came on again on the 20 minute ride home even though I sat through several stoplights.

The code makes me think cap/rotor, but I just had them replaced 12-17 months ago.

When this whole hard starting thing just began, my truck was at the mechanic for some front end work and he said he thought it was the fuel pressure regulator and that it wouldn't be a major issue until it just stopped working. He said i had time. Since I didn't have the money, I didn't have him fix it. He didn't look at it thoroughly, just gave me his idea based on what he experienced on the test drive before and after.

Could these symptoms be cause by the pressure regulator? Is there a more likely cause? Hard to repair?

Thanks for reading the long post and thanks for your advice in advance.

Birch

 
squidley63 
Member
Posts: 513

Loc: NY
Reg: 09-23-04
05-07-10 04:10 AM - Post#1911176    
    In response to jbirch

I would definitely check fuel pressure to verify you are getting enough fuel and then look into the ignition system...look for buildup on the underside of the distributor cap etc. based on the symptoms.

1963 Chevrolet C-10 Fleetside SWB
400 sbc 3 speed manual

95 Chevy Suburban 5.7TBI 4X4


 
Randy_W 
None
Posts: 27804

Reg: 01-06-02
05-07-10 04:22 AM - Post#1911180    
    In response to jbirch

Unless they used GM ignition parts, they may well be bad. I had 2 sets of aftermarket cap and rotors last a year each on my shop van that gets driven about 6000 miles a year, if that. Last time I went to the dealer and no more problems.
Also, if you haven't checked or changed the intake gaskets, I would highly suspect it.
Randy

DON'T mess with Old Men, we didn't get old by being, STUPID!!!

"The veneer of civilization is very thin!" (Arlo)


 
jbirch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 44

Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
05-07-10 05:02 AM - Post#1911202    
    In response to Randy_W

Intake gaskets...is that a big job?

 
355Cheyenne 
Senior Member
Posts: 3765
355Cheyenne
Loc: Northern MN
Reg: 10-27-04
05-07-10 06:33 AM - Post#1911234    
    In response to jbirch

  • jbirch Said:
Intake gaskets...is that a big job?



on a 1 to 10 scale I would personally give it a 4.5. A shady tree mechanic should be able to tackle it in a weekend with a basic tool set including a torque wrench.

To test for intake gasket failure pull all hoses off the valve covers and plug them. The more exact way at this is with a vacuum gauge but feeling with your hand with work just fine. I plug all the holes with my hands and feel for vacuum. With all hoses removed there should be neutral pressure maybe with some pulsing or a little pressure but not vacuum. If there is vacuum this would indicate a leaking intake gasket.

When my intake gasket failed I had vacuum in the crankcase and a random miss fire code.
98 Silverado k1500 4x4 350


 
rodram 
Contributor
Posts: 374

Loc: Saskatoon, CANADA
Reg: 04-14-09
05-07-10 09:26 AM - Post#1911305    
    In response to 355Cheyenne

... before you start ripping into your engine and replacing parts get your fuel pressure checked..

... all the symptoms you describe can be caused by a failing fuel pump... on these Vortec engines you need 60+ psi at all times (GM spec on the fuel injection systems is 61 to 66 psi)... as your fuel pressure starts to drop below 60 the engine gets harder to start... and then eventually you can get random misfire... because the poppet valves are not spraying fuel at the tip of the injectors properly.. get an ACDelco pump or a Delphi pump (don't waste you money on other brands of fuel pumps)... and replace the internal filter sock and the external wiring harness at the same time..

.. yes the other things mentioned can affect performance of your engine, but my bet in this case is your fuel pump.


Edited by rodram on 05-07-10 09:28 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
355Cheyenne 
Senior Member
Posts: 3765
355Cheyenne
Loc: Northern MN
Reg: 10-27-04
05-07-10 10:09 AM - Post#1911324    
    In response to rodram

agreed, diagnose before you start throwing parts at it.
98 Silverado k1500 4x4 350


 
jbirch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 44

Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
05-07-10 11:27 AM - Post#1911356    
    In response to rodram

I did replace the fuel pump in Nov of 2008, but haven't ruled that out as the culprit here. I didn't have time to check the fuel pressure before I came to to work today, and I dropped it over at my trusted mechanic during lunch for his opinion. Will let you guys know what he says and what I think I might or might not do next.

The timing of this issue really stinks. I'm supposed to drive 200 miles tomorrow, then back on Sunday.

 
jbirch 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 44

Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
05-07-10 11:44 AM - Post#1911363    
    In response to jbirch

Okay. Mechanic says fuel pressure regulator. To replace he is looking for $332. That includes diagnostic at $60, labor at $135, NAPA lifetime warranty regulator at 89.95, intake manifold kit at 28.30, tax and shop supplies.

He looked inside and said the regulator is pretty much "gushing."

Is that a reasonable price?

Is this something I could do myself (and could it wait until Sunday with that 200 mile drive ahead of me)? I've done fuel pump, replaced the front end (pitman, idler, tie rod ends, upper/lower BJs), steering sensor, various other parts and pieces, so I can handle my way around most of this truck. I just never have done much work with fuel systems.

 
rodram 
Contributor
Posts: 374

Loc: Saskatoon, CANADA
Reg: 04-14-09
05-07-10 03:04 PM - Post#1911440    
    In response to jbirch

... personally... if you trust the mechanic and you need this truck tomorrow for the weekend, then I would just get it done.

... if you don't fix it today then you risk getting stranded a long way from home on the weekend and then relying on some unknown mechanic... and maybe a bill for a tow truck



Edited by rodram on 05-07-10 03:05 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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