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Username Post: 283 wont start! HELP        (Topic#241437)
gates62 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12

Age: 25
Loc: Raton USA
Reg: 05-05-10
05-05-10 04:08 PM - Post#1910477    

I have a 62 chevy c10 with a 283 it started the other day now nothing power to nothing not the light steroe nada. it will start if i put a screw driver on starter to jump the connection but when i go to turn on lights it shuts off! any ideas???

 
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Chevy_Stepside 
Super Senior Member
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Chevy_Stepside
Age: 51
Loc: San Francisco, Ca, USA
Reg: 07-08-02
05-05-10 08:24 PM - Post#1910633    
    In response to gates62

Try cleaning the battery terminals. If that don't work maybe you need new battery cables. Try cleaning the contacts where the harness plugs into the firewall also.
"A man and his truck, It's a beautiful thing"
The tour is on again. May 1st 2011. $5 I ride 100 miles. http://main.diabetes.org/site/TR?pg=personal&a mp;f...


 
gates62 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12

Age: 25
Loc: Raton USA
Reg: 05-05-10
05-05-10 09:27 PM - Post#1910664    
    In response to Chevy_Stepside

will try But the starter is getting power.

 
markeb01 
Contributor
Posts: 295
markeb01
Age: 66
Loc: Spokane, WA
Reg: 06-08-09
05-06-10 05:37 AM - Post#1910746    
    In response to gates62

You might check the plug on the back of the ignition switch and make sure it is fully seated on the terminals.

 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15619

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
05-06-10 05:54 PM - Post#1911019    
    In response to markeb01

Here is a main power wiring diagram:



What is happening is that there isn't enough power being transmitted through the wire going across the core support and into the firewall, eventually ending up at the ignition switch. There is either a loose connection (at the firewall or the ignition switch) or you have burned up the wire from the Horn Relay to the firewall.

The wire going to the ignition switch is the one that comes back out the other side of the firewall and ends up powering the coil. If you put too much load on that wire (like when you turn on the lights) your voltage will drop - which will shut off the power to the coil. This is why your truck stops.

So, either clean up connections (up to and including the replacement of the ignition switch), or replace the wire.

It is very common for the wire between the Horn relay and the firewall to burn up - especially if you have an ammeter. These ammeters go bad over time, and start drawing more current - which causes the firewall to horn relay wire to burn up. If you replace that wire (and before you try it) disconnect the ammeter from the wiring harness.

Attachment: Slide2.JPG (58.43 KB) 65 View(s)



 
markeb01 
Contributor
Posts: 295
markeb01
Age: 66
Loc: Spokane, WA
Reg: 06-08-09
05-06-10 06:57 PM - Post#1911066    
    In response to Vaughn

Thanks for sharing that excellent information and diagram. I learned something new today, and will save this thread for future troubleshooting reference.

 
gates62 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12

Age: 25
Loc: Raton USA
Reg: 05-05-10
05-10-10 01:41 PM - Post#1912779    
    In response to Vaughn

replaced wire up to fire wall cleaned all the connections! igniton switch seems to be good accesorys works on switch any more ideas anybody???

 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15619

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
05-10-10 03:23 PM - Post#1912832    
    In response to gates62

Have you checked for shorts in the headlight wiring? One way to test for this is to unplug the headlights from the harness, then turn on the headlights to see if the ignition shuts off.

 
String 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 49

Age: 56
Loc: Sault Ste Marie Michigan
Reg: 05-08-10
05-10-10 03:27 PM - Post#1912834    
    In response to gates62

Boy, its hard to tell without being there. Check the starter relay. It sounds like you are not getting power through the switch, which leads me back to the relay. The turning on of the headlights and the truck shutting off throws me. Unplug the headlights from the lamps and see what happens. Or pull the headlamp fuse and see what happens. I am leaning toward the relay. ( Though I may be talking out my butt) I wish I was there to help ya bud.
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy. Benjamin Franklin


 
Beckrl 
Contributor
Posts: 173
Beckrl
Reg: 01-30-09
05-10-10 07:00 PM - Post#1912980    
    In response to String

I've heard that the ground on the horn relay is very important. Also that is the central connection point it really needs to be in good condition and clean.
1966 Chevy C10 pickup Fleetside 283 cid

Beck


 
gates62 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12

Age: 25
Loc: Raton USA
Reg: 05-05-10
05-11-10 11:12 AM - Post#1913340    
    In response to Beckrl

i replaced the battery cables and now its work just it dont seem like its gettin spark!

 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15619

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
05-11-10 05:19 PM - Post#1913519    
    In response to gates62

No ground on the horn relay - at least not the way you mean. The horn relay is a central connection point for the POSITIVE side of the battery. The horn relay is ACTIVATED by a ground in the steering column.

If the motor turns over, then run a jumper wire from the battery to the positive side of the coil. IF it starts and runs - even with the headlight switch on, then the ballast wire is defective or the Relay terminal on the starter relay (if points distributor) or the power supply wire is defective from the ignition switch (if on an HEI ignition).

Do not leave the jumper wire hooked up from the battery to the coil (on a points distributor) if the engine isn't running. This will burn the points up if the points are closed.

 
String 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 49

Age: 56
Loc: Sault Ste Marie Michigan
Reg: 05-08-10
05-11-10 05:41 PM - Post#1913530    
    In response to Vaughn

Very good Vaughn, I was leaning toward that train of thought. Well put. Also I have found at times with weak connections, you may have voltage showing at different points on any given circuit , until you apply a load then nothing works. These are a bugger to trouble shoot.
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy. Benjamin Franklin


 
Beckrl 
Contributor
Posts: 173
Beckrl
Reg: 01-30-09
05-12-10 05:58 PM - Post#1914099    
    In response to Vaughn

Right, the horn relay should be mounted so to be grounded. To check that mount screw. That's what I meant.
1966 Chevy C10 pickup Fleetside 283 cid

Beck


 
gates62 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12

Age: 25
Loc: Raton USA
Reg: 05-05-10
05-13-10 02:59 PM - Post#1914497    
    In response to Vaughn

I ran a jumper wire from battery to coil she started right up! So what exactly do i need to replace? wireing or coil?

 
Beckrl 
Contributor
Posts: 173
Beckrl
Reg: 01-30-09
05-13-10 04:38 PM - Post#1914547    
    In response to gates62

Have you checked the switch voltage going to coil?
1966 Chevy C10 pickup Fleetside 283 cid

Beck


 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15619

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
05-14-10 12:52 PM - Post#1914907    
    In response to Beckrl

If it is a points ignition:
Change out the ballast wire from the R terminal on the starter solenoid to the POS side of the coil. A ballast wire has a resistor in it, to drop the RUNNING voltage to 9 volts, so that the points last longer. If you can't find a ballast resistor wire, you can use a ballast resistor inline with the wire (use one from a mid-70s Chrysler product, most parts stores carry them).

You can also replace the starter solenoid. This is probably easier to find than the ballast wire, so you may want to start there.

If it is an HEI, you need to replace the wire going from the Ignition switch to the HEI, or the ignition switch itself, or the Power wire feeding the ignition switch.

Using a multimeter to check the voltage at each component will help you eliminate which component isn't the problem, so you don't have to throw parts at it. For example, if you have a good solid 12 volts at the ignition output on the ignition switch (with the key on), you know that the power wire supplying the ignition switch and the switch itself - are probably not the problem.

 
String 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 49

Age: 56
Loc: Sault Ste Marie Michigan
Reg: 05-08-10
05-15-10 06:34 AM - Post#1915212    
    In response to Vaughn

If memory serves me right, the starter solenoid acts as a relay. ( correct me if I am wrong ) If so then thats where I was leading in an earlier post. Way to go guys on getting this solved. This forum is great.
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy. Benjamin Franklin


 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15619

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
05-15-10 03:59 PM - Post#1915396    
    In response to String

It does. There are two small terminals on the starter, one is marked S for solenoid, and the other is marked R for relay. The R terminal is what is hooked up to the ballast wire - it is active/on while the motor is running.

 
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