Danspeed1
Forum Newbie
Posts: 20
Reg: 03-12-10
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03-15-10 10:36 PM - Post#1880862
May seem like a stupid question but I am having a really hard timing finding a suitable engine oil to run in my original 46 Chevy Stylemaster 6 cylinder. The engine calls for a Straight SAE 20W, however it appears as though the only company making it is Rotella, and its specifically designed for a Diesel. I am not an oil buff, but I do know enough to be concerned about the lack of Zinc additive (800PPM), and the fact that its manufactured for a diesel.
In the event I am not able to find a 20W can I safely run 10W-30? OE Service manual states not to use a Straight SAE 30 unless in desert conditions. The vehicle will be run in temperatures ranging from as low as 40*F to as hot as 90*F.
I live in Orange County, NY
Thanks,
Dan
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 David Hayward
Deceased RIP David
Posts: 7051
Age: 57
Loc: New Forest, UK
Reg: 04-10-99
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03-16-10 12:30 AM - Post#1880887
In response to Danspeed1
This has been discussed at numerous times before..detergent -v- non-deteregent, straight grades -v- multigrades...I am sure that your suggestion is ok but perhaps Gene can advise? I used to use 30W in my little Honda C50...it was a problem to obtain then, so I suppose a multigrade is what would have to be used now. The next question is can you run 20W-50? Any thoughts please?
Automotive Historian, Writer & Author
Avatar: sole surviving 1939 Chevrolet truck assembled in Southampton, England |
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 2blu52
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13069
Age: 79
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
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03-16-10 09:07 AM - Post#1881026
In response to Danspeed1
30wt will not hurt an older chev in line engine. The main problem with 30 wt is it does not flow well at cold temps and there for the splash system of lubrication does not function well. I have been running 10/30 in my 52 and find that it works very well. As for zinc, it is an additive that is not needed in the engines that we run. I think that if you do a little research you will find that there was no zinc additive at the time these engines were brand new. As said there has been a lot of discussion about Zinc. I do not worry about it with this engine. 50 wt would be excessively heavy. 
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"
THOMAS JEFFERSON |
Edited by 2blu52 on 03-16-10 09:09 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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ken48
Contributor
Posts: 233
Age: 71
Loc: Vermont
Reg: 06-02-07
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03-16-10 06:34 PM - Post#1881278
In response to 2blu52
2blu has it right......I've been running 10w-30 in my 48 since a rebuild about 7 years ago with no problems. The only thing I add to my oil is MMO at every oil change.
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Gene_Schneider
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10513
Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
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03-16-10 07:30 PM - Post#1881323
In response to ken48
I use 10W-30 in my cars. All 10W-30 oils today contain zinc, the amount was just reduced by about 25 % a few years ago. Zinc really isn't necessary in a 216. The 10W-30 will cover all temperature ranges that you will experiance. 10W-30 first came out in the mis 1950's.
| ChevGene
1934 Master sedan
1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan
1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide
1957 Nomad 283 PG
1963 Corvair Convertible |
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Danspeed1
Forum Newbie
Posts: 20
Reg: 03-12-10
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03-17-10 08:31 PM - Post#1881965
In response to Danspeed1
Thanks guys,
Went with Valvoline VR1 10W-30. 10-30 sounds like it covers all the bases and VR1 has lots of zinc which will help me sleep better at night. Thanks for the tips,
Dan
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Daves4757
Contributor
Posts: 158
Age: 60
Loc: Mpls, MN
Reg: 06-11-11
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06-11-11 08:46 AM - Post#2102119
In response to Danspeed1
I have a '47 chevy and have used 30 weight non-detergent for years.
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Jack Crain
Contributor
Posts: 400
Age: 60
Loc: WIchita Falls, Texas
Reg: 07-24-11
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11-28-11 05:45 AM - Post#2162577
In response to Daves4757
My 46 has a 1954 235 installed. Not sure what grade of oil is in it, it looks to be new. However when cold, ie first start of the day, I get around 30 psi on the original gauge. As she warms up, the oil pressure tends to drop. After about 10 minutes of running, at idle, the pressure gauge read just a hair above "0", and revving the engine a couple of hundred rpms sends the pressure to around 15-18 psi.
Any of you had this problem and would straight 30 wt help?
| 1946 Fleetmaster 4-dr Sedan |
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 gary635g
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 344
Age: 74
Loc: Oldtown Idaho Yuma Az
Reg: 10-28-09
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11-28-11 07:07 AM - Post#2162590
In response to Jack Crain
Very serious problem!!! A friend had the same problem with his 54 the guy that rebuilt the engine for him convinced Joe that 15 # is all that is needed,NOT SO FOR POST DIPPER OIL ENGINES!!! Full flow oil engines from 53 Power Glide engines on should have 35-45# of oil pressure.Did pressure loss come on quickly? Could be plugged oil pickup screen or leak in suction line to oil pump also oil pump releif could be stuck open, how about distribuyer drive of oil pump, have you had the distributer out? Major clearance issues with Main Bearings,Camshaft Bearings and Rod Bearings. Joe continued driving his until severe rods knocking finally convinced him to have it torn down. Several rod bearings were completely destroyed he was fortunate one did not break and go out side of block. Good luck and keep us posted on progress. Gary
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Jack Crain
Contributor
Posts: 400
Age: 60
Loc: WIchita Falls, Texas
Reg: 07-24-11
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11-28-11 06:30 PM - Post#2162820
In response to gary635g
The oil pressure situation has been the same since I first got the car. Altho, I only have driven it less than 50 miles, it has acted the same since I first got it. Othen than carb replcement, I haven't done anything to the engine.
Earlier today, I changed the oil to 30wt and started it and let it run at idle for 30 min. It took around 10 minutes for the needle to drop from the 30 psi mark and another 20 minutes it was down to about 5 psi.Increasing the rpm 300 brought it back up to about 23 or 24 psi. Since this oil change seemd to help, I'll change the oil and filter again to see if I get any more improvements. If that doesn't help it some more, then I guess it'ss be time to drop the pan and look at the intake screen.
| 1946 Fleetmaster 4-dr Sedan |
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Keith_Knox
Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2729
Age: 71
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
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11-28-11 09:48 PM - Post#2162904
In response to Jack Crain
Try another mechanical gage to see if it reads the same.
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010.
1996 Chevy Monte Carlo
2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab
2013 F150 Crew Cab |
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Jack Crain
Contributor
Posts: 400
Age: 60
Loc: WIchita Falls, Texas
Reg: 07-24-11
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12-03-11 07:16 PM - Post#2164681
In response to Keith_Knox
I changed oil and filter and hooked hp a new gauge to the oil system. On startup, gauge was readind 37 psi @750 rpm and 30 psi @450 rpm. After idling at 450 rpm for 30 min, pressure had dropped to 15 psi@450 rpm. I went tooling around the lake for a little while and during driving pressure varied 25-30 psi, depending on rpm of engine. After around 30 min of driving, I pulled back into the driveway and let the 46 idle back down to 450rpm. Pressure was still at 15 psi@450 rpm.
After reading a few differnt articles, I am confused as to how much of the oil pressure is measured. I have a 1954 235 engine that according to the number, it had a powerglide attached to it when it was new. And, I believe, from what I have read, that it is a full pressure oiling system. I have also read that only about 15% of the oil passes thru the oil filter. The place on my 235 where the oil pressure is taken is from the return line of the filter where it goes back into the block. If only 15% if the oil is being filtered, could that be the reason of the low oil pressure?
| 1946 Fleetmaster 4-dr Sedan |
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 bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4877
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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12-03-11 10:22 PM - Post#2164743
In response to Jack Crain
My '55 235 engine in my '51 has the tee fitting in the same place, just below the bellcrank for the accelerator.
I use 10/30 oil.
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