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Username Post: 4l60E TEMP. GAUGE INSTALL        (Topic#237441)
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-10-10 10:24 AM - Post#1877495    

I'm getting ready to plan the install of a transmission temperature gauge on my '94 Z71 Ext Cab w/the 4L60E transmission w/tow pkg.

Instead of buying a bigger/newer 2500HD that I can't afford....I'm dumping cash into my '94 and gonna keep 'er. Sofar - tires/brakes/dual exhaust(no cat)/stock tune-up/new radiator hoses & transmission cooler....

I had the tranny rebuilt w/upgrade last yr (burned up towing). I plan on again pulling my '09 United 16x7 Utility trailer (3300GVRW) w/2 full size Arctic Cat Quads (1400lbs combined) - that caused the burn-up - and I want to make sure I don't repeat it.

I'm looking at either a B&M or AUTOMETER mechanical gauge w/an A-Pillar pod. But I need to know if TEE'n into the feed line to my transmission cooler will give me an accurate temp, or using the test port on the actual transmission housing is better?

The simplest is the TEE, but I've read conflicting answers to whether the test port actually works.

The truck is "tight" w/160K and should have NP pulling this trailer in D.

Any tips/suggestions/pics whould be appreciated!

Thanks!
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25741
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
03-10-10 10:35 AM - Post#1877502    
    In response to cupsz71

I disagree; simplest is not the Tee; you create several extra high pressure points that can leak and cause near-instant transmission failure if any of the joints come apart.

Very simple is the pressure test port. I would also go with the electric gauge, since it won't have a capillary style tube to break, and you can be a lot more flexible in how you route the wiring - it's just one wire from the sender.

I've installed Autometer electric gauges on a 4L60E and a 4L80E and it was about the simplest job ever. The sender supplied screws right in with no adapters needed. A test after running the 4L80E very hard then checking all over the trans with an IR temp gun showed maybe a 1F difference between the gauge reading and temp gun reading.

Finally, a really neat spot you can park the trans temp gauge on your '94 - in plain sight without the need for a vision-obstructing A-pillar pod, just use a $15 "radio delete storage pocket" (AMI/American International part # GMP-333, can be found at some higher-end car audio dealers but also on eBay) - I like the AMI brand because it has a lip at the bottom that prevents items from sliding out; I put my stereo remote there.



Just my opinions.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-10-10 10:42 AM - Post#1877506    
    In response to someotherguy

DOUGH! I did mean electrical gauge...

NICE INSTALL! I'd already replace the factory radio with a KENWOOD CD player a few yrs ago and have that empty cubby insert - no lip. (useless IMHP).

I like it better there as I was never a fan of the pod install either. We have the same dash/gauges.....but what's the other gauge installed? A boost gauge? Just curious.

Thanks for the info!!
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


Edited by cupsz71 on 03-10-10 10:45 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25741
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
03-10-10 10:52 AM - Post#1877510    
    In response to cupsz71

Thanks; was a little tricky getting the gauge holes centered just right but some double-check/eyeballing then hole saw action and it was done. The other gauge is a combo vacuum/boost gauge; on one hand I'm pretending I'm concerened about MPG - on the other I'm planning ahead for a supercharger.

I chose the Z-Series since they were black with white numbers, similar to the factory gauge cluster.

Two other pics of the install:




Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-10-10 12:29 PM - Post#1877569    
    In response to someotherguy



Picked this up at noon for $20 from CHECKER AUTO.

I wondering about the SIZE of the test port fitting. As you can see this kit came with 3 adapters that a higher $$$ AUTOMETER one had. (they had one $70 so I opened both & cross checked)

Do I need to use one? If not, will the sending unit go all the way into the housing? Or bottom out & be blocked?

Just looking for a head's up on what to find since it looks like this is most likely gonna be a "driveway" install on my back...
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


Edited by cupsz71 on 03-10-10 12:32 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25741
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
03-10-10 12:33 PM - Post#1877570    
    In response to cupsz71

The sender by itself is likely the right size to fit, with no adapters needed. The threads are tapered so it will stop when it's tight.

I would have ordered a better quality gauge though. The Autometer is only around $50 from places like Summit, Jegs, etc. A $30 difference isn't enough for me to save money on transmission insurance.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-10-10 01:06 PM - Post#1877584    
    In response to someotherguy

DOUGH!

I thought I could get away with one that doesn't say TRANS on it...but now it's bugging me. That and your right about transmission insurance since it already cost my $2500 last yr.

It's going back & looks like I'll buy on-line.

man I need more coffee.....
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


Edited by cupsz71 on 03-10-10 01:12 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
fritz1990 
Senior Member
Posts: 6401
fritz1990
Age: 52
Loc: Kansas
Reg: 02-16-03
03-10-10 07:29 PM - Post#1877825    
    In response to cupsz71

The sender won't know trans fluid from water.

Regards, Jeff
1998 K1500 6.5 Coal burner
1965 C10 with 498 BBC AFR Heads
1964 C10 Ran 348W for 6 years, now SBC.

Corvettes owned: '74 '77 '78 L82 Silver Anniversary, 2002 LS1

Don't have a nervous come together!

http://picasaweb.google.com/fritz199090


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-11-10 09:04 PM - Post#1878498    
    In response to fritz1990

UPDATE!

I took my $20 gauge back and picked up an AUTOMETER Pro-Com 5457 for $60 at NAPA. After doing that a swung by the local transmission shop that re-built my transmission last yr and "hit them up" for the proper place to install the sender.
They said it an WASTE OF TIME to install the sender in the test port. It's a PRESSURE PORT only and has no fluid going by it.
Any temperature reading others are getting is the result of radiant heat from the transmission body itself and is not accurate.
The recommend and install them in-line on the outflow line before the radiator/cooler.

So now I've ordered an 5/16" in-line manifold also from AUTOMETER #2287 that will mate up with the gauge. I plan to install it just behind the fitting before entering radiator.

I'll keep everyone updated w/pics as my install progress continues.
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


Edited by cupsz71 on 03-11-10 09:06 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25741
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
03-11-10 09:59 PM - Post#1878534    
    In response to cupsz71

Everyone's got an opinion.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
Big Steve 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1143
Big Steve
Loc: Riverside, CA
Reg: 04-17-06
03-12-10 11:09 PM - Post#1879102    
    In response to someotherguy

  • someotherguy Said:
Everyone's got an opinion.



True fact - here's mine: I was told many years ago by the Stewart Warner rep that called on my parts store that the best place to put a trans temp guage is in the pan. You can buy a bulkhead type fitting that has female pipe threads that the sender will screw into. You just drill a hole in the pan and assemble the bulkhead fitting and screw the sender into it. He said that you want to monitor the fluid temp just before it goes intro the internals of the trans, and putting the sender in a tee or similiar installation will sometimes give an inaccurate reading because the fluid will sometimes pool up around the sender if the sender is not protruding well into the flowing fluid. If the sender protrudes well into the fluid flowing through a 5/16 or 3/8 line, it may cause a flow restriction. I'd put it in the pan IMHO.
I may be getting older but I refuse to grow up.

'93 Silverado Extra Cab Sportside
'99 Suburban (My wife's but I get to wash and work on it)
'69 Buick Riviera project car


 
transman618 
Senior Member
Posts: 839
transman618
Loc: Cumming,GA
Reg: 06-06-04
03-12-10 11:24 PM - Post#1879112    
    In response to Big Steve

I've always installed them in line where the fluid runs out of the trans and IN to the cooler. That is where the hottest fluid is going to be and I want to know exactly how hot the transmission is getting.


transman
GM MASTER TECHNICIAN
SR. TRANSMISSION BUILDER



 
Big Steve 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1143
Big Steve
Loc: Riverside, CA
Reg: 04-17-06
03-12-10 11:53 PM - Post#1879121    
    In response to transman618

I know you know a heck of a lot more about trannys than I do, so I bow to your superior experience and knowledge. . It just seems to me that knowing what the temperature of the fluid is as it enters the internals of the trans would be advantageous. I do like the looks of the guages in the cubby.
I may be getting older but I refuse to grow up.

'93 Silverado Extra Cab Sportside
'99 Suburban (My wife's but I get to wash and work on it)
'69 Buick Riviera project car


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-13-10 07:44 AM - Post#1879225    
    In response to Big Steve

UPDATE#2 !! - INSTALLED!!

Sit back and get some popcorn I tend to ramble...

Thanks everybody for the advise and input for this install! It took ALOT longer than I anticipated and I'll explain why.
But first:
FOR THE RECORD - everyone here was RIGHT ......and EVERYONE I talked to locally was WRONG......WAYYYY wrong.

I started out last night installing the gauge first in the radio replacement cubby. I discovered that I had to install off-center - towards the pass. side - due to to design on the dash brackets and available space. All my wiiring connections are sodered and it was realatively easy to route the wires thru the dash.
The AUTOMETER gauge came with colored covers for the backlight & I went with the green to match my stock gauges. I tied it in the factory dimmer switch. I then tied in the pwr to an ignition fuse & ran the sender lead thru an exisitng grommet in the firewall.

ALL GOOD.

NOW HERE'S THE REST:

On advise from my local transmission guy I went with installing/building a TEE w/pieces from MENARDS (a local BIG BOX store) and went about installing it on the TOP line at the radiator. - Which I found was relatively easy due to that's where my aftermarket tranny cooler was piped in (I didn't install it)

ALL GOOD right? - WRONG.

I took the truck for a drive and soon discovered that the gauge wasn't working/reading AT ALL??? It would twitch and that was about it.
Confident in my wiring (old car stereo installer days) I decided to pull my sender contraption out and put a ice cream pail at the end of the open line(s). Starting with the cooler hose end to confirm my suspicions that I'd installed everything - on the backside/output of the cooler - to the return line on the transmission.
Hit the key for a quick start/stop - WE HAVE OIL! -everywhere. DOUGH!

AHHH CRAP.

SO what we've learned -
RADIATOR TOP LINE - return
RADIATOR BOTTOM LINE - feed

Completely opposite of what both my transmission guy and mechanic told me!
On the ++ side - at least my oil cooler is routed properly
SOOOO... now it's getting dark (this is a driveway install) and my TEE contraption will NOT work on the bottom line without some serious cutting/modifying that I didn't have the patience or tools or better yet the PARTS for.

SOOOO.....if the advise I got locally sofar was ALL WRONG...hmmm that test port on the side of the tranny was my next option....as was recommended by someotherguy......SO I TOOK IT.

I crawled under the truck w/a 3/8" tranny wrench and pulled the test port plug...and guess what? OIL!
That made up my mind! Screw it! It's going in! Using lithium tape on the threads I proceeded to install the sender. It threaded in easily.
The hardest part was re-routing the sender wiring I'd so carefully installed for my 1st location by the radiator.
Now I'm cold - wet from laying on the ground - and cranky (as the wifey can confirm) + it's 9:30pm & I've been at this for close to 5hrs......time for a drive.

IT WORKS!! I ran 'er up the highway for 5miles - stopped & checked for leaks - NONE - and ran 'er home.
The temp sat at about 130-145F

That's about it. I'll post a pic of the dash install later today after I get some more coffee in me.

Thanks for letting me share!!
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


Edited by cupsz71 on 03-13-10 07:49 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4245

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
03-13-10 10:08 AM - Post#1879310    
    In response to cupsz71

I have to think if the thing's screwed right into the trans body, it's going to tell you just how hot that transmission is, maybe inside at the actual friction points it will be somewhat warmer, but I've worked transmissions hard before where you could put your hand on the trans tunnel and feel it was hot under there - heat tends to rise and the trans fluid should flow the heat even if there's a bit in the port that's not circulating - so I have to think that the gauge error will be minimal at best.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
DeLong 
Banned Member
Posts: 2868

Loc: Rural Illinois
Reg: 06-06-02
03-13-10 10:59 AM - Post#1879330    
    In response to Bill K.b

Ive ran a few into the pressure port with 0 problems. Checked the gauge against the pan with a IR temp gun and it was right on.
00 Yukon SLT XL 5.3
98 Lumina Police Package 3.8
88 2500 4X4 5.7
87 Mustang LX 5.0
67 Mustang Fastback 289
65 Mustang Fastback 289


 
transman618 
Senior Member
Posts: 839
transman618
Loc: Cumming,GA
Reg: 06-06-04
03-13-10 02:10 PM - Post#1879412    
    In response to Big Steve

  • Big Steve Said:
I know you know a heck of a lot more about trannys than I do, so I bow to your superior experience and knowledge. . It just seems to me that knowing what the temperature of the fluid is as it enters the internals of the trans would be advantageous. I do like the looks of the guages in the cubby.



Yea its advantagious in telling you how good you're cooler is working BUT what you really need to know is how hot your trans is getting and the best place to tell how hot the trans is getting is in the line leaving the trans.


transman
GM MASTER TECHNICIAN
SR. TRANSMISSION BUILDER



 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-13-10 05:21 PM - Post#1879528    
    In response to transman618



As promised a pic of the gauge installed. (still got room for 1 more if I needed one....but WHICH one?)

I took the time today to soak down w/de-greaser & pressure wash the engine compartment where I'd sprayed tranny oil everywhere.
I then drove 'er around the city most of the afternoon running errands and checking out the local sports/rv show then stopping to re-check for any leaks - NONE
Gauge worked flawless and I soon discovered that about 165┬░F is where it sits with "normal" city driving.

Speaking of "normal"...does anybody have a suggestion as to what a TOWING temperature range may be?? I'm NOT pulling anything over 5000GVRW, just my 16x7 utility trailer.

Just wondering where the "uhoh" limit is. I already cooked one transmission & I'm NOT looking to repeat it.

THANKS!
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


Edited by cupsz71 on 03-13-10 05:34 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4245

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
03-13-10 06:49 PM - Post#1879576    
    In response to cupsz71

200' if I remember right.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-13-10 07:40 PM - Post#1879612    
    In response to Bill K.b

200┬░F ??

that's not very high. My truck towing sits at 195-205┬░F on the water temp gauge.

Oh...now that I've had 24hrs to "reflect" on my install it was brought to my attention that the REASON my 1st location TEE install didn't give me ANY reading was because it was installed in-line w/rubber hoses and wasn't GROUNDED!

-thus the twitching gauge...

DOUGH!
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-13-10 09:18 PM - Post#1879669    
    In response to cupsz71

K did some more "on-line" research and 200┬░F seems to be the recommended limit for long hauls on open flat ground with the occational spike to 215┬░F climbing hills.
Now I had my 4L60E re-built with all the HD + mods available anticipating my towing requirements. In my research I stumbled accross reports that due to these upgrades pulling in OD is recommended for the 70mph crowd and that these mods were FOR that purpose?
If so that would definately save on my 5.7L rev'n at 3grand on the highway.

Any thoughts? And yes....I could drive slower and normally do.
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4245

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
03-14-10 02:50 AM - Post#1879739    
    In response to cupsz71

The thing with towing stuff is not so much pulling ability as it is stopping ability, and I can't imagine towing much more than a lightly loaded 2-wheel trailer over 65 unless I had a 1-ton and electric trailer brakes. Anything more than that you probably shouldn't be going that fast. I once had about 7500 lbs behind a half-ton Suburban and had to jam on the brakes for a light that dropped in front of me - I couldn't have been doing more than 30 if even that - and the load was pushing me with all 4 tires locked up.



190' or so is normal operating temp for the engine, but the trans is a seperate component, and much over 200' for very long will kill it in a hurry. Don't ask me how I know, but rest assured a 200R4 will only last so long towing heavy stuff behind it, particularly when it's making the trans so hot putting your hand on the trans tunnel inside the car darn near burns it.

Your tow speed will depend somewhat on your rear gears, but what it boils down to is the best compromise between speed, stopping ability, and economy.



Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
DeLong 
Banned Member
Posts: 2868

Loc: Rural Illinois
Reg: 06-06-02
03-14-10 06:46 AM - Post#1879792    
    In response to Bill K.b

Towing anything in od is out for me.

A coworker of mine had a 96 gmc that he used to tow a john boat about 400 miles a year one way for vacation. He used od and something in it burned up on the interstate.. I cant remember what it was but they got him fixed pretty quick and he took off. Put it in od after the tech that fixed it told him not to and a hour later, boom. Same thing.

He didnt have a temp gauge but if you want to try OD Id watch that guage close. I bet you dont like what you see.

00 Yukon SLT XL 5.3
98 Lumina Police Package 3.8
88 2500 4X4 5.7
87 Mustang LX 5.0
67 Mustang Fastback 289
65 Mustang Fastback 289


 
rodram 
Contributor
Posts: 378

Loc: Saskatoon, CANADA
Reg: 04-14-09
03-14-10 08:54 AM - Post#1879855    
    In response to DeLong

after I burned up my 4L60E last year towing a big travel trailer I had a total rebuild (with upgrades) and the mechanic told me ... from now on when towing anything.... just keep the transmission selector in Drive (No Overdrive) and you will not have any problems ... I will be taking this advice as I do not want to pay for another transmission rebuild.

- I will also be installing a trans temp gauge this year before towing season.... I like the install in the dash from the pictures here ('94s, I think), but I have to figure out how to get a gauge into a '97 dash... there is no place for those 2 1/16 inch diameter gauges that I can easily see... I think I can get a 1.5" gauge in if I can find a suitable gauge in that smaller size


Edited by rodram on 03-14-10 09:01 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4245

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
03-14-10 01:55 PM - Post#1879998    
    In response to rodram

Can you get one of those deals that puts it in a pod on the A-post?

Everyone I've talked to has always said not to tow in OD, too.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
cupsz71 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32
cupsz71
Loc: Minot, ND.
Reg: 04-19-07
03-15-10 05:08 AM - Post#1880292    
    In response to Bill K.b

Yea I was SERIOUSLY doubting the claims on-line that one could pull in OD too with the rebuild upgrades.
I did it once pulling my pop-up camper - downhill - but other than that D only in the 55-65mph range for this guy.

I was just fishing to see if the OD claims would hold up.

Thanks all! The towing "upgrades" are continuing, with dual FLOWMASTER exhaust as the next plan of attack.
I spent yesterday checking/rewiring the rear trailer receptical plug on the Z and relocating my new brake controller I bought last fall.

So it's all coming together.
1994 SILVERADO Z71 - (161K)Daily Driver
2002 TRAILBLAZER LT - (62k) (Daily Driver)
2008 Arctic Cat 650H1 TRV - (1460K)Mine
2009 Arctic Cat 550H1 - (515mls)Wifey's
2009 Arctic Cat 250 4x2 - (300Mls) "Boys"
2009 United 16x7 Shed/Hauler


 
The_Hunter 
Contributor
Posts: 984
The_Hunter
Loc: Manitoba, Canada
Reg: 02-14-05
03-15-10 11:05 AM - Post#1880432    
    In response to cupsz71

I pull my 500 pound boat / trailer in OD :D. In fact I race little 4 bangers towing my boat, I win lol.

Soon as your total weight is in the 6000 lbs range you should not be towing in OD.
86 C10 Short Box

Computers are like air conditioners - They can't do their job properly if you open windows.


 
MustGoFaster 
Senior Member
Posts: 4712
MustGoFaster
Loc: Oregon
Reg: 11-28-03
03-16-10 02:10 PM - Post#1881130    
    In response to The_Hunter

  • The_Hunter Said:
I pull my 500 pound boat / trailer in OD :D. In fact I race little 4 bangers towing my boat, I win lol.

Soon as your total weight is in the 6000 lbs range you should not be towing in OD.


i disagree.... any time you are past 2,000 lbs i would keep it out of OD unless you are running downhill.

Al
91 K1500 EC/SWB, 322k original miles
79 Jeep Cherokee Chief, off-road toy
07 Mazdaspeed3, bolted track rat


 
The_Hunter 
Contributor
Posts: 984
The_Hunter
Loc: Manitoba, Canada
Reg: 02-14-05
03-16-10 02:49 PM - Post#1881151    
    In response to MustGoFaster

My truck weights more than 2000 lbs! I meant total weight: Truck + Trailer.
86 C10 Short Box

Computers are like air conditioners - They can't do their job properly if you open windows.


 
brad_bb 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4255
brad_bb
Loc: Joliet, IL.
Reg: 07-13-01
03-17-10 03:27 PM - Post#1881757    
    In response to The_Hunter

I will beg to differ with ya'll. I don't want to know how hot the trans is, I want to know the maximum temperature the fluid is getting. That is why I installed it in the hot line coming out of the trans going to the cooler. Yes you have to make your tee so that the sender tip doesn't block the flow, but touches and thus measures it. Trans fluid starts burning around 230F. Towing, 200-210 is not uncommon in the summer. You have to watch the spikes. If you are in hilly county you better have a gauge to measure the max fluid temp and keep it from overheating.
With regard to gage placement, I found the best place for me was to remove the ashtray insert, make a faceplate and mount the 2" autometer gage there. I don't smoke, so it's wasted space otherwise. Oh, and don't even think of towing without an auxillary trans cooler. My truck didn't have one originally, so I found the best thing was to go to the chevy dealer and find the original factory auxillary unit for my truck. The factory accessory, is designed to bolt right up(designed to fit properly) and is a robust unit. Some after market units can have delicate fins and chincy mounting zip ties.
Keep your cool everyone.
If someone else can design it, I sure as heck can figure out how to fix it!


Edited by brad_bb on 03-17-10 03:30 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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