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Username Post: converting 350 to 383 stroker        (Topic#234849)
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4

Reg: 02-02-10
02-02-10 07:49 PM - Post#1855247    

I want to turn my 97 chevy 3/4 ton with a 350 vortec into a 383 stroker what is the best kit to use?

Valued Contributor
Posts: 2956
Loc: Rochester, NY. USA
Reg: 03-13-00
02-03-10 07:02 AM - Post#1855442    
    In response to Countryboy87

I'm doing this to my Tahoe right now. Scat 9000 series cast crank, Scat rods and probe pistons. Its a TBI motor so i am replacing the heads with vortec heads and a vortec to TBI intake. Well see how she runs in the spring. I am only looking for low end for towing. So I am running a comp cams camshaft they recommend which is a big lift short duration and I think I am gonna run the block hugger headers that hook up to the stock exhaust with the cat emptied.

Philip Ferrera
1977 Chevelle
1977 Malibu Classic
1986 Grand Prix
1995 Tahoe
2003 Impala LS
2004 Ski Doo REV
Street Machines of Rochester NY

Senior Member
Posts: 1744

Age: 66
Loc: Wichita Falls Texas USA
Reg: 09-17-00
02-04-10 03:37 PM - Post#1856469    
    In response to Countryboy87

check out this link it has everything you want to know about building a 383

Runs like a Scalded Dog!!

Posts: 292
Loc: Radnor, PA
Reg: 09-22-07
02-04-10 08:26 PM - Post#1856664    
    In response to ltlvt

Man, it seems like it would be easier to buy a turn key, or make friends with someone at a shop, which you would probably have to do anyways, if you're just some up and down the street knucklehead (myself included in that category). Looks like to do it right, which is the only way, is a lot of work.

1988 Chevy K1500 5.7L 700r4
2008 BMW 335xi coupe, 6 speed twin turbo
2006 Audi TT convertible 1.8 turbo
2001 Land Rover Discovery II

I'm trying to think, but nothing happens???

Senior Member
Posts: 1744

Age: 66
Loc: Wichita Falls Texas USA
Reg: 09-17-00
02-05-10 01:16 AM - Post#1856739    
    In response to spiderhole

I agree spiderhole. I have a 98 roller block that i was gona make a 383 out of but when i look at grinding material off of the bottom of the cylinders to clear the counter weights of the crank i got to thinking of the water jackets that are between the cylinder walls and the block and i chose to go the 350 route instead. You also have to grind part of the rod bolts/caps down to clear the cam lobes and if you get too stiff of a cam this clearance can be impossible . The suggestion is a paper clip clearance between rods/cam/oil pan rails... Man that ain;t much clearance but if you grind much more than that you risk creating more problems...

Runs like a Scalded Dog!!

Senior Member
Posts: 637

Loc: Dawsonville Georgia
Reg: 05-11-01
02-05-10 07:17 AM - Post#1856809    
    In response to ltlvt

I just asked this too elsewhere, and here to some extent in the past.

Everyone knows how to build a 383 - EXCEPT FOR A FUNCTIONAL VORTEC motor.

I've not found a "kit" that will do that reliably. And when you look into the economics of things, the chevy built HT383E looks good.

Here's an example of how you'd get hosed:
Buy a 383 "kit". Whoops, the balancer is too deep to seat with the crankshaft reluctor. Now you gotta grind your balancer down and jack up the balance. Or not?

The chevy 383 uses the stock 350 balancer. And a unique crank. So if you go with that, you just spent $1200 for the crank and need to piece together the pistons and then balance everything. And clearance your block.

So... what I did was look for other options (camshaft swap).

The HT383E uses the ramjet cam.

OK... the L31 vortec 350 makes 255hp & 330# of torque.
The RAMJET 350 is configured exactly like the L31, except for the camshaft (ramjet). And it has a programmable computer and fuel injection system to retro-fit into a non CCC vehicle.
The ramjet 350 makes 350hp & 400# of torque.

Lastly the HT383E makes 340hp & 440# of torque.

So my question became - how much of the 70# of torque comes from the ramjet cam alone. And is it worth the expense, effort & risk trying to get the additional 40# of torque the 383 makes over the ramjet 350?

We can buy the camshaft itself for $156.
Vs. $2500 - 5000 for the extra cubes.

The other thing I'm after is reliability. If I throw the crankshaft onto the strip in my car, I can live with that. If I go to tow my car home and throw the crankshaft onto the ground out in the parking lot, I'd have 3 pieces of equipment stranded far from home.

Da Burb 
Posts: 109
Da Burb
Age: 48
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
Reg: 08-31-04
02-06-10 05:16 AM - Post#1857321    
    In response to MadMike

I'm also in the process of stroking my 350.
To buy a HT383 or a ZZ383 here in Australia would be rediculously expensive ($10,000.00+).
I was luckiy enough to find a new GMPP Forged crank here which is basically unheard of.
I picked it up for USD$380.00.
I'm looking at Eagle 6" forged H-Beam rods and Forged JE pistons.
I also have a ZZ4 cam which a friend in Canada gave me when I visited last year.
I read that HUGE (Grumpy) 383 conversion thread...and found it VERY interesting but I didn't see any references to using a 3.800 stroke crank.
Anyone have any thoughts/ideas on this build I'm proposing.
It will be combined with a Holley single plane FI manifold and will be fed by a Whipple blower (1.6L at present as that is what I have on my Burb with the marine intake...but hopefully inthe future a bigger blower).
Vehicle is a 98 K1500 Suburban with 4L80E trans.

Best wishes from 'Down-Under'.

98K1500, 4L80E, Whipple SC, Mercruiser Marine Intake, Hydroboost, 99+ 0411 PCM, Tuned by me with EFILive.

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