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Username Post: SBC 350 Camshaft Selection        (Topic#230081)
franknitticutlass 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 7

Reg: 11-20-09
11-20-09 07:13 PM - Post#1809467    

I have a stock 1968 350 sbc 76cc chambers 1.50/1.94 valves. I have a Edelbrock Torker 2 Aluminum Intake and a 600 cfm edelbrock carb. I dont know too much about cam lifts, springs, etc...I wanted to know what's the max lift I can have in a cam without having to replace/ upgrade anything else in my motor.?

 
Big Jacks Auto 
Contributor
Posts: 314
Big Jacks Auto
Loc: Syracuse, N.Y.
Reg: 08-14-07
11-21-09 11:01 AM - Post#1809726    
    In response to franknitticutlass

I would not bother changing the cam with out the springs or you will probably have problems with the added lift
not sure what you are trying to acomplish but the biggest I have put in to a stock piston engine like yours would be a comp cams 292 magnum
.501 lift
get rid of your intake put on a performer rpm and a set the cam listed above and a set of long slot rockers or roller rockers and the correct springs and you will have a 400hp 350
you will be right on the edge of piston to valve clearnace and I would check before assembly
comp cams 280 magnum with .480 lift is a safer bet

both cams sound great and make decent power.
well that is what I would do but if you have extra money I would run a roller cam
S.H.R.A
Syracuse Hot Rod Association
55 Chevy 327 Muncie 4 speed
Prostreet Studebaker x Gasser SBC 6-71 Blown
Video of My SBC powered Studebaker


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 16162
grumpyvette
Age: 66
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
11-21-09 11:10 AM - Post#1809732    
    In response to Big Jacks Auto

as a general rule hydraulic cams with lifts of 0.475 and under work with most stock springs
yes we all know guys who (SUCCESSFULLY??) installed a .500 lift cam with good result (SO FAR), but without checking clearances carefully that also a great way to have problems, and its that not checking that results in most of the problems I constantly see, as a result of cam swaps,
youll also want to keep in mind that the DURATION and LSA (LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE) play a part in the clearance issues, between the valves and pistons

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?...
" " IF YOU CAN'T SMOKE THE TIRES FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK !"


Edited by grumpyvette on 11-21-09 11:20 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
gotta56forme 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3340
gotta56forme
Reg: 09-19-03
11-21-09 12:18 PM - Post#1809754    
    In response to grumpyvette

Welcome to CT, Frank,

Your title reads cam selection, and I assume you are looking for help with choosing a cam. There are some guys here with lots of knowledge and experience. I've been taught to believe that bigger in a cam isn't typically better. Tell us a little about the car this is going into. year? model? rear tire size? rear axle ratio? transmission? intended use (street only, street/strip, strip only, other)?
Can I get that to GO? * * * '56 210 HT * * * '56 BelAir HT * * *


 
franknitticutlass 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 7

Reg: 11-20-09
11-21-09 01:04 PM - Post#1809784    
    In response to gotta56forme

Its going into a 1981 2 door Malibu.SBC 350, turbo 350 trans, 7.5 with 2.56 gears;I intend to run this car as a street only car. my tire size is undecided because Im in the process of finding a good set or rims.

 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 16162
grumpyvette
Age: 66
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
11-21-09 01:32 PM - Post#1809800    
    In response to franknitticutlass

then a cam similar to this one I linked to,will be about correct, it will boost hp about 30 plus, pass emission testing and run correctly with that stock stall converter and 2.56:1 rear gear ratio

AND ITS ABOUT AS LARGE AS YOU CAN GO AND STILL HAVE NO (ZERO)PROBLEMS<MATCHED WITH ALL STOCK COMPONENTS

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts& ;act...

if you really want to push the limits this cam below will work also, but its really best with a 3.36:1-3.73:1 rear gear, and it won,t have the same low rpm torque but it will have more peak hp..

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts& ;act...

http://www.competitionplus.com/index.php?option=co...

once you get to more than about 210 dur @.050 lift or tighter than about a 112 LSA, a low cpr 350 with a stock stall and a 2.56:1 rear gear, won,t start running correctly, as long term transportation without some matched mods like headers or a stiffer rear gear etc.

be smart, learn from others experience, not thru regretting you installed a cam thats a bit larger than ideal like most younger guys do.
" " IF YOU CAN'T SMOKE THE TIRES FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK !"


Edited by grumpyvette on 11-21-09 01:47 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MikeB 
Senior Member
Posts: 9475
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
11-24-09 08:55 PM - Post#1811873    
    In response to franknitticutlass

Any idea what your compression ratio is? Even the CompCams 280 Magnum cam mentioned above would probably like 10.0:1 to make decent cylinder pressure. If your CR is only 9.0:1, I suggest you stick with something like 262-270 advertised duration. Some of the newer cams in that range have almost as much lift as an older design 280.

IMO, the best stock-diameter springs out there are CompCams #26981 Beehive springs. They coil bind at 1.115" vs. 1.150" for most 1.25" diameter springs. So you can use them for up to .525" lift and still have a .060" safety margin. But, be sure to check retainer-to-guide boss and piston-to-valve clearances.

Many of the generic .510" lift springs should really be rated at .490" when installed at the proper 1.700" height.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!

1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, M20, Wilwood front brakes

1982 C-10 SWB pickup, 250 six, 3-speed

My car pictures



Edited by MikeB on 11-24-09 09:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
octanejunkie 
Contributor
Posts: 466
octanejunkie
Loc: Los Angeles area
Reg: 11-12-09
11-25-09 10:26 AM - Post#1812148    
    In response to franknitticutlass

Depending on how you plan to drive your *street car* will affect your choice of cam. If you are not changing your gear ratio I wouldn't go with too large a cam as you will not get the benefit on the road.

The intake you are currently using benefits higher RPM applications, 2500-6000. If low end is an issue, especially with your current gearing, you might want a manifold that will benefit off-idle response, like the Performer or Performer RPM (or the Air Gap if clearance is not an issue)

Back to cams, you might want to look at a stock-replacement cam or one step up - IMO, unless there is something you are not telling us, a simple Edlebrock Performer intake/cam package might suit your needs nicely.

From my limited experience, once you go above .500" lift there are many other considerations to address like valve springs, seat/stem height, etc

If you want to have some real fun, upgrade your gears to 3.08s or 3.23s - but be prepared to run at slightly higher RPM on the highway

Good luck!
'59 Chevy 3100 Stepside
0.040-over 350, mild (214/224 @ .050) 112 LC cam,
vortec heads, air-gap, 600cfm carter, 2-1/2" rams horns,
built 700R4 w 2200rpm stall, 3.42 posi rear on top of 31.5" BFGs


 
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