babyblue1955
Senior Member
Posts: 536
Loc: oregon city or
Reg: 03-12-04
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 11-03-08 04:11 PM - Post#1556176
HI C/T MEMBERS i have question on dp-40 i had some small panels reworked. and straighted and dp-40 was applyed to them should the dp-40 be sanded with fine grit dry or wet sand paper and should a reg primer be applyed than over the dp-40 or just sand dp-40 and spray the color coat on cofused???
Edited by babyblue1955 on 11-03-08 04:12 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 acardon
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7550
Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
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11-03-08 06:31 PM - Post#1556302
In response to babyblue1955
The DP40 is a non-sandable epoxy primer. It's very good for rust protection. You need to apply a high build sandable primer on the dp40 to be able to sand out any imperfections. DP40 should be coated within a week, if not, scuffed and apply another coat of DP40 and then topcoat with sandable primer. Technical Data Sheet. Link to TDS .
Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (restoring)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)
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 Vaughn
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 11030
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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11-03-08 09:15 PM - Post#1556431
In response to acardon
DP40 IS a primer, not a paint.
You can just scuff the primer before you shoot color, or before you apply a primer surfacer if you want to block sand the car.
Your shop did the right thing by sealing your panels with an epoxy primer. If they had used a generic primer, you would probably have to strip the panels back down to bare metal and re-prime, because rust would have formed on the metal through the porous generic primer (if they have been sitting any length of time).
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babyblue1955
Senior Member
Posts: 536
Loc: oregon city or
Reg: 03-12-04
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11-03-08 09:18 PM - Post#1556439
In response to acardon
HI acardon
THANKS FOR THE INFO I DONT know what dp-40 paint and what is the reason that reg prime has to be put on no later than a week what happens to the dp-40 in that period of time ? DJ55 NOMAD 55
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babyblue1955
Senior Member
Posts: 536
Loc: oregon city or
Reg: 03-12-04
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 11-03-08 09:23 PM - Post#1556445
In response to Vaughn
THANKS Vaughn
FOR YOUR INFO i guess i forgot to state these are not panels on the wagon these are 2 panels or thin covers that go on the bottom edge of my lift gate DJ55 NOMAD 55 
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Rick_L
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 22020
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
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11-04-08 07:55 AM - Post#1556642
In response to babyblue1955
"what is the reason that reg prime has to be put on no later than a week what happens to the dp-40 in that period of time"
Same reason as the one that says you should learn to put commas and periods in your posts. 
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babyblue1955
Senior Member
Posts: 536
Loc: oregon city or
Reg: 03-12-04
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11-04-08 11:19 AM - Post#1556796
In response to Rick_L
this what i read !!!if you dont put reg primer surfacer on with in aweek you have to go back and scuff the DP-40 AND PUT MORE DP-40 OVER THAT I
DONT KNOW I AM CONFUSED
DJ55 NOMAD 55 
Edited by babyblue1955 on 11-04-08 11:20 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Vaughn
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 11030
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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11-04-08 05:29 PM - Post#1557099
In response to babyblue1955
They are talking about the recoat window.
It isn't a big deal. If you put a fresh coat over any coat of primer already on the car - it just means that the primer (or paint) doesn't need to be scuffed before you recoat if you are "inside" the recoat window - because that primer (or paint) is still soft enough that it will bind to whatever you spray over the top of it.
Primer (or paint) has a "skin" on it. While that skin is "fresh", it hasn't hardened completely. That is why anything you spray over it will still bond to it.
When that skin has hardened completely, you need to scuff it to break through that hardened skin, so that the primer or paint can bond to what is beneath it. Otherwise it might not have a tendency to bond well.
All it means is that if you have exceeded the recoat window, you have to scuff before you shoot it - that's it.
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72novaproject
Senior Member
Posts: 2625
Age: 54
Loc: D/FW Texas
Reg: 02-18-03
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11-05-08 05:28 AM - Post#1557413
In response to Vaughn
Vaughn,
I would never advise to go against any P-Sheet so don't think I am. That said, is it not generally accepted that high build can be applied over scuffed, fully cured DP without an additional coat of DP?
Steve
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Vaughn
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 11030
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
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11-05-08 07:07 PM - Post#1558052
In response to 72novaproject
My first inclination was to say that you didn't need to spray another coat of dp40lf over the dried dp40lf coats, but I went into the P-sheets to double check.
According to what I read in the P-sheets, dp40lf can be top-coated with any of the PPG primer surfacers and high build primers (K36, K38, etc) without needing to shoot another coat of epoxy primer - all that was needed was to scuff the dp40lf if the recoat window (1 week) had been exceeded.
I didn't mean to imply that - if that is how you read my previous response. I was just trying to explain what a recoat window was, and that if you were outside the recoat window, you just had to scuff before shooting any other ppg product over the top of it.
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72novaproject
Senior Member
Posts: 2625
Age: 54
Loc: D/FW Texas
Reg: 02-18-03
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11-06-08 08:48 AM - Post#1558409
In response to Vaughn
Thanks Vaughn!
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Alex Ross (4)
