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Username Post: Special tool needed for fan removal? - water pump 1998 GMC Sierra 5.7L        (Topic#198072)
66seeker 
Member
Posts: 97

Loc: So NH
Reg: 11-24-03
09-04-08 10:00 AM - Post#1514885    

1998 GMC Sierra 5.7L K1500 with Air
Is a special tool needed to remove the cooling fan? I'm planning on attempting the water pump replacement job myself and I hear theres not alot of room in there.
Any special tricks for this operation?
The parts place guy tells me he uses a piece of thread through the pump mounting holes and the gasket holes to keep gasket lined up during install -simpley pull out the thread before tightening it all down. RTV, pr gasket sealer good to use? Gasket only?

Thanks, 66
66 Impala sport coupe SS 305ci(for now)
74/82 Chevy 1/2 ton "Frankenstien" Sold
1998 GMC Sierra 4x4 350 Vortec 2 Dr, ex cab, 8' bed, two zip codes.
270K+mi 96 Saturn SL2 (sold before death!
75 G30 Blazon camper (gone), 79 GS1000 crashed, 86VF1KR


Edited by 66seeker on 09-04-08 10:01 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
CDAUSA 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
09-04-08 10:20 AM - Post#1514907    
    In response to 66seeker

Nah, not a big job at all, probably easier than the old ones.

Take off the upper shroud half, then find a scrap piece of cardboard to cover the radiator with just in case!

You just need some way of holding the water pump pulley and some type of wrench big enough to fit the clutch nut. A cresent/good channelocks/open end if you have it-----and something like a pair of vise grips to clamp on the back side of the pulley-----but use a buffer of some sort, rubber/old belt/leather to keep from marring the pulley. Channelocks will work here also, it doesn't take alot. All you have to do is get it broke loose, it should spin off after that.

It's right hand threads, so just take it off like you were taking out a bolt on the front end, to the left.

Though not necessary, it's handy to have a pair of hose clamp pliers that fit these clamps. Sure makes it easier-----but isn't a "have-to".

Yep, you can use a stud to put in a couple of the holes, just cut them long enough to be able to get out and replace with a bolt-----but again, this isn't necessary, aren't that hard to get the gaskets in place.

Just make sure you get the block cleaned off well, a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket. This would also be a good time to change the thermostat if you haven't.

Put some anti-seize back on the threads of the pump, screw the clutch/fan back on, just snug it back.

 
66seeker 
Member
Posts: 97

Loc: So NH
Reg: 11-24-03
09-11-08 03:07 AM - Post#1519899    
    In response to CDAUSA

Thanks for all that great info.
That fan pulley was on there real good.

The 99 and up repair manual I peered at in the autoparts store (if'n they had the book for the 98 GMC I'd've bought it. Really, I would..) showed the use of a strapwrench to hold the fan pulley while removing the fan clutch nut. Nice!

After ripping my hair out trying to replicate/devise a strapwrench using such impliments as an old leather belt, oversized rubberbands (for excercizing), and ratcheting tiedown straps… I went out to buy a real strap wrench. Took me some valuable time to find a reasonably priced one and I could find none which seemed worthwhile. Although I did learn later that the one which looks to have a rubber strap may actually be a rubber coating over a nylon mesh - it only looks cheap.

Anyway, in the end my autoparts guy helped me out. He told me they have a rental tool for fan clutch removal. (DOH!)

It's called (get this…)

a fan clutch removal tool, or fan clutch wrench set.

This one was from a company called Powerbuilt.
The rental was free (deposit of $60) and it worked perfectly. One part fit over, or more accuratley "around", the four boltheads on the pulley to hold it still while I turned the nut with the large adjustable which I had to buy - because none of the spanner type wrenches in the rental kit fit - they were all too big. This kit must be for large trucks or something. This fan clutch nut is probably about 1 1/8".

The rest of the job was cake - except for trying to drain the radiator… but that's another issue.

I hope this info helps the next guy/girl whose breaking new ground. - and is wise enough to use the search feature.
66 Impala sport coupe SS 305ci(for now)
74/82 Chevy 1/2 ton "Frankenstien" Sold
1998 GMC Sierra 4x4 350 Vortec 2 Dr, ex cab, 8' bed, two zip codes.
270K+mi 96 Saturn SL2 (sold before death!
75 G30 Blazon camper (gone), 79 GS1000 crashed, 86VF1KR


Edited by 66seeker on 09-11-08 03:11 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
CDAUSA 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
09-11-08 04:18 AM - Post#1519945    
    In response to 66seeker

When I take one off, I use a chisel to hang on the edge of one of the flats of the hex, of the nut on the clutch. It just needs to be broken loose, smack it good and spin off, or all those I've done has been that way.

People here haven't responded well to that treatment, so I quit mentioning it.

If I'm changing a stat or pump, something where I just need to get "most" of the coolant out, I have an 8 foot or so clear vinyl (non-tox) 3/8 hose, one end in the tank and two jugs waiting outside on the floor. Suck on the hose to get it started and if I jack the right side up just a bit, I can get 2.5 gallons out of the radiator. Only takes 1 gallon to remove the stat without any fluid loss.

But that's another thing most people don't think is a very smart idea.

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25888
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
09-11-08 09:09 AM - Post#1520127    
    In response to CDAUSA

Sometimes the best/easiest methods are looked upon with suspicion, by those that haven't tried them.

I love your test for the intake gasket failure. Seems like something you'd have to "prove" to some folks, but clearly, it works like a champ.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
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