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Username Post: 5.7 Vortech Distributor install        (Topic#197033)
Big Steve 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1141
Big Steve
Loc: Riverside, CA
Reg: 04-17-06
08-22-08 02:01 PM - Post#1505444    

I'm getting ready to put a new distributor in my wife's '99 Suburban with a 5.7 Vortech. I understand that it is necessary to get the new one in exactly the same position as the old one, but is there any way to check to make sure it's correct once I get it in and the truck's running? So I don't have it a gegree or two off? I know on my '93 non-Vortech you unhook the tan wire to check the timing, is there a similar procedure on the Vortech? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I may be getting older but I refuse to grow up.

'93 Silverado Extra Cab Sportside
'99 Suburban (My wife's but I get to wash and work on it)
'69 Buick Riviera project car


 
Bishop 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1488
Bishop
Age: 27
Loc: DMV Area
Reg: 01-06-07
08-22-08 02:36 PM - Post#1505475    
    In response to BIGg Steve

just make sure you mark your cap and rotor postions several times, and the mark the cap relative to the block. take pictures if you can. you should be able to get it spot on if you make it enough and just take your time. I got mine in 180 degrees out once, and i had to remove valve covers ect. to get it dead on again.
Not only so, but we also rejoice in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance
Romans 5:3


 
Big Steve 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1141
Big Steve
Loc: Riverside, CA
Reg: 04-17-06
08-22-08 02:48 PM - Post#1505484    
    In response to Bishop

Yeah, I'm confident of being able to get it in without it being 180 off, it's just the final exact timing I'm concerned about. I'm sure I can get it installed to within a few degrees.
I may be getting older but I refuse to grow up.

'93 Silverado Extra Cab Sportside
'99 Suburban (My wife's but I get to wash and work on it)
'69 Buick Riviera project car


 
52chevybob 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5628

Reg: 05-27-08
08-22-08 08:23 PM - Post#1505732    
    In response to BIGg Steve

Technically you need a timing light to get the timing to spec.
The thing that is nice about that truck is that you have a knock sensor on it so you can run with the timing moderately advanced as the computer will keep any serious knock from continuing.
I always like to put the engine on the #1 compression stroke with the piston at TDC before putting in a dist. This ends up being that the rotor is pointing to the #1 cyl. You can put the dist. in in 13 different positions and there is only one which is close to #1 when you setup this way.
For a rough timing, retard the dist. and then advance it until the engine no longer speeds up with advancing of the dist. The computer may interfere with this tho, trying to keep a constant rpm at idle, so it may not work. Overadvancing the timing will eventually cause the engine to start knocking and missing so you will at least know you're too far advanced at that point.

 
trailwart 
Contributor
Posts: 256

Reg: 04-17-08
08-23-08 04:32 PM - Post#1506240    
    In response to 52chevybob

didnt have time to answer this yesterday but timing is not adjustable on these. timing light wont do any good as there is no timing tape on the balancers. what you need to do is get it running and take it to a shop that has a tech2 or equivalant scanner to read live data to adjust the crank cam correlation. timing needs to be set a 0 and the computer does the rest. you will get a correlation code if its not at 0. most places like tuffy and tune up shops have the capable scanner and charge 40 or less. dealer is usually a bit higher.

 
CaptainK 
Senior Member
Posts: 8242
CaptainK
Loc: Maryland
Reg: 02-25-02
08-25-08 04:06 AM - Post#1507045    
    In response to BIGg Steve

Moving this to the 88-98 forum for further assistance (5.7 was not offered on the nbs 99)
'99 Silverado (NBS)


 
CDAUSA 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
08-25-08 07:43 AM - Post#1507140    
    In response to BIGg Steve

Timing light won't do you any good on this.

Only way I know of to get it precise is with a Tech II or similar scanner, the base timing has to be set within 2 degrees either way, for the ECM to manage it.

It can be off slightly more and still drivable, but will probably have some drivability issues.

Just make a permanent mark (I use a chisel) at the distributor body/manifold and rotor/distributor, replace it as close as possible and you probably won't have any reason to take it anywhere.

Another thing to look for, check the distributor drive gear while out, there was a short run of gears that were too soft, cam ate them up. If there's any wear at all, replace the gear.

There's also two vents in the distributor, they would be underneath/to the side of the rotor. They are actually slits, make sure they are clean.

And, I'd only use the FelPro MS98000T gaskets, make sure those you get have the stainless stiffener in them.

 
Big Steve 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1141
Big Steve
Loc: Riverside, CA
Reg: 04-17-06
08-26-08 03:48 PM - Post#1508381    
    In response to CDAUSA

Thanks for all the the info. I'm not changing the intake gaskets, just installing a new Accel distributor because the stocker has a broken off cap mounting ear. I think that I can manage it OK, I will put #1 at TDC compression before I start. The cap is perfectly parallel to the firewall, so I think I should be able to get real close. I may make a template of some sort before I start and see if that works. The wife's truck, y'know, gotta make sure it runs better (or at least not worse) when I get done!
I may be getting older but I refuse to grow up.

'93 Silverado Extra Cab Sportside
'99 Suburban (My wife's but I get to wash and work on it)
'69 Buick Riviera project car


 
CDAUSA 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
08-26-08 04:18 PM - Post#1508391    
    In response to BIGg Steve

Get a good 3M ziptie and cinch that puppy down, go sneak out with the boys for a few hours and come back, rub some grease here and there, come in and say "WHEW", hope you're happy now"

 
Big Steve 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1141
Big Steve
Loc: Riverside, CA
Reg: 04-17-06
08-27-08 07:51 AM - Post#1508788    
    In response to CDAUSA

Actually, that's how it is now, I did that about 4 years ago. But it's due for a tuneup, and I already have the brand new Accel distributor, so I figure I'll just jump in with both feet.
I may be getting older but I refuse to grow up.

'93 Silverado Extra Cab Sportside
'99 Suburban (My wife's but I get to wash and work on it)
'69 Buick Riviera project car


 
JeremyB 
Senior Member
Posts: 693
JeremyB
Reg: 10-31-01
08-29-08 11:43 AM - Post#1510543    
    In response to BIGg Steve

When you get it right the rotor should point towards a small v shaped pointer with the number 8 on it that may be cast into the distributor base- on the factory ones it is.

 
rsmith 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 32

Reg: 04-07-08
08-30-08 05:53 PM - Post#1511476    
    In response to JeremyB

I just went thru a load of with the distb setting after doing the intake gaskets on my '98. I thought i had it set and marked but I kept getting misfire codes and it would crank hard. I finaly kept moving the dist a little at a time until the code stopped comming on. You can not set this with a timing light you need someone with a setup to do this. mine runs great now. But when I find someone to do it I will. If you havent done the intake you realy need to do them.

 
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