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Username Post: 454 vortec timing        (Topic#196981)
sbd9902 
Newbie
Posts: 3

Reg: 08-21-08
08-21-08 07:04 PM - Post#1504886    

Hello all, Newbie here.

I have a 1997 CC Dually w/454 Vortec. I just did intake gaskets on it. I marked the distributor pretty well and am confident that it is back in the same spot it was. Got it all done, fired it up and all seems well. No engine light, idles fine, runs fine, starts fine, took it down the road and it does fine there as well. I saw that it has a timing pointer and marks on the pulley, so just for kicks I put a timing light on it and it is reading 26 degrees BTDC at idle (700 +/-). Is this an accurate reading? Could the distributor be out a little? Do i need to take it to someone to have it set? Like I said everything else seems fine and if I hadn't put a light on it I would assume all is well. Should I take it to someone and have it set?

Thanks in advance,

Sean

 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25749
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
08-21-08 07:20 PM - Post#1504901    
    In response to sbd9902

Hi Sean and welcome to ChevyTalk;

The timing will generally always read a good amount of advance while under the PCM's control. On the older (pre-Vortec, TBI) engines, you would disconnect a wire to cause the computer to quit controlling the timing so that you could adjust the base timing mechanically by turning the distributor and watching the balancer mark with a timing light. Vortecs do not work this way.

When you removed the distributor, did you mark not only the distributor body position, but the rotor's position as well? That's the required method with Vortec engines.

The fact that it's starting and running normally, and no codes are setting (particuarly P1345), are very good signs; means you got it back in the right place and there's not much to worry about.

It takes a Tech II or equivalent type high-end scanner to fine-tune the timing on a Vortec. If you're concerned about the way it's running, or it sets a related code, then yes - take it to a shop that can hook it up.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25749
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
08-21-08 07:23 PM - Post#1504904    
    In response to sbd9902

Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on your engine? I had a '96 Vortec 7.4 that had around 180-200K on it and the top distributor bushing was trashed; I could shove the rotor side to side almost a quarter inch in any direction. It would intermittently be hard to start, and then stumble to find idle after starting. Oh, and one of the screw bosses for the distributor cap was broken off.

When I bought a replacement distributor for it, the instructions explained the need to mark the distributor AND rotor as I explained in my first reply.

I hate that they make these distributor bodies out of plastic; it seems like you change the cap a couple of times and the distributor is garbage. Not meant to be serviced; meant to be thrown away - and with the method for distributor replacement not being as straightforward as all the small and big block Chevy engines leading up to 1996 (Vortec era), requiring extra labor and shop billable hours. Okay; sorry for rambling.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
sbd9902 
Newbie
Posts: 3

Reg: 08-21-08
08-21-08 07:29 PM - Post#1504912    
    In response to someotherguy

Hello Richard,

Thanks for the quick reply and the welcome. I did mark the rotor position in relation to the distributor as well. I marked it all 6 ways to Sunday. I'm pretty confident that it's in the exact same way as it was. It just scared me when I put the light on it and saw 26 deg. So I guess as long as it runs normally and no engine light comes on, I'll let it go for now.

Thanks again,

Sean

 
sbd9902 
Newbie
Posts: 3

Reg: 08-21-08
08-21-08 07:35 PM - Post#1504915    
    In response to sbd9902

Richard,

It only has 71,000 on it. When I took it apart I did find that the rotor was loose. It looked like the screws had loosened up and the holes in the rotor were all egged out and it was kind of slapping back and forth quite a bit. It did idle a little rough before and seems smoother now. Whether it was that or not I don't know but it couldn't have been great for it. Had it since it was new and this was the first time I had the cap off.

Sean

 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
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