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 Page 2 of 2 <12
Username Post: 6V to 12 VOLT CONVERSION        (Topic#196833)
prowler 
Contributor
Posts: 233
prowler
Loc: Port Alberni B.C.
Reg: 01-15-12
02-01-12 07:29 PM - Post#2186151    
    In response to Rukee

Im doing the same dance right now myself. I origianly was givin a vr 4 voltage reducer, but couldnt figure it out, so now I am oredering a Runtz diode type reducer. There are directions online for it, and it looks very simple and is the one most guys are using I think. I also have a 12 volt conversion thread going you might find some helpfull stoff on.

52 Chev Styline. Now running a 250/TH 350 with a 2.77 rear end. Daily driver / work in progress


 
Rukee 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4

Reg: 02-01-12
02-02-12 11:27 AM - Post#2186376    
    In response to prowler

Do you have any links to the product and instructions?



 
prowler 
Contributor
Posts: 233
prowler
Loc: Port Alberni B.C.
Reg: 01-15-12
02-02-12 01:35 PM - Post#2186416    
    In response to Rukee

This is the one. I havent installed it yet, but will soon....
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-V...

52 Chev Styline. Now running a 250/TH 350 with a 2.77 rear end. Daily driver / work in progress


 
Rukee 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4

Reg: 02-01-12
02-02-12 04:37 PM - Post#2186484    
    In response to prowler

Wow, that's alot cheaper then the NAPA IR1 which is over $50.00. Where exactly does that thing wire in?? Like I said, I can hardly see anything trying to look up from under the dash. To the left of the steering column I see a bunch of wires on some sort of connecting block, can I wire it in there somehow?
Thanks for your help by the way.



 
prowler 
Contributor
Posts: 233
prowler
Loc: Port Alberni B.C.
Reg: 01-15-12
02-02-12 07:51 PM - Post#2186578    
    In response to Rukee

No sweat. if you open the hood and remove the voltage regulator, you can remove the plate that the regulator is mounted to, and that will give you easier access to the backside of the dash. have a look at my thread, "converting a 52 to 12 volts" and there is a couple of pictures there that show what I mean. this diode wires directly in line to the fuel guage. Split the power wire to the guage and splice it in, and the ground it somewhere with the black wire, and your done..

52 Chev Styline. Now running a 250/TH 350 with a 2.77 rear end. Daily driver / work in progress


 
Rukee 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 4

Reg: 02-01-12
02-03-12 07:36 AM - Post#2186679    
    In response to prowler

I'll have some work to do then, this `49 has a power brake booster and master cyl attached to that plate.
Thanks!



 
prowler 
Contributor
Posts: 233
prowler
Loc: Port Alberni B.C.
Reg: 01-15-12
02-03-12 05:07 PM - Post#2186860    
    In response to Rukee

oh yikes! You will be better off hiring a 6 year old to climb under the dash with an instruction sheet and a flashlight!! Hahaha..

52 Chev Styline. Now running a 250/TH 350 with a 2.77 rear end. Daily driver / work in progress


 
gjwach 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 73

Age: 52
Loc: Central PA
Reg: 02-02-12
02-06-12 07:19 PM - Post#2188008    
    In response to prowler

Can an 54 Autronic eye headlight dimmer be coverted into a 12 volt system and what would be needed to operate the original power seat option in a 54 chevy being converted over to 12 volt from 6?

Thank you,

Greg: 54 Red & White (well will be someday) Hardtop being done as original (except 12 volt and disc brakes) and loaded with options (i.e. original pwr steering, pwr seats, autronic eye, sunvisor, spot light, acc lighting and a continental kit)


 
Bob_Hayden 
"16th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6809
Bob_Hayden
Age: 71
Loc: Indianapolis, In. USA
Reg: 07-17-01
02-07-12 04:40 AM - Post#2188081    
    In response to gjwach

Hey Greg!!! See they made you start from 0 on the number of posts. Glad to see you back!!

Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums

2014 Silverado Double cab (BLUE)


 
gjwach 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 73

Age: 52
Loc: Central PA
Reg: 02-02-12
02-07-12 06:59 AM - Post#2188125    
    In response to Bob_Hayden

Its only fair to start me back at zero since I let my job keep me away so long. But I am happy to be back as well both here and getting back to work on my hardtop and house projects.

Greg: 54 Red & White (well will be someday) Hardtop being done as original (except 12 volt and disc brakes) and loaded with options (i.e. original pwr steering, pwr seats, autronic eye, sunvisor, spot light, acc lighting and a continental kit)


 
49Stovebolt 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 58

Loc: NE Florida
Reg: 11-27-12
12-08-13 01:28 PM - Post#2405939    
    In response to ralph47

Is the 6V starter normally used when going to 12V? Are any alternatives available?



 
Dean50 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1152
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
12-10-13 04:44 AM - Post#2406374    
    In response to 49Stovebolt

Yes, the 6V starter is commonly used. Just don't crank it too long at a time.

Dean50



 
bobg1951chevy 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7024
bobg1951chevy
Loc: Hendersonville, N.C.
Reg: 02-18-08
12-11-13 07:42 AM - Post#2406705    
    In response to Rukee

  • Rukee Said:
Hey guys, first post, please bare with me.
Have a `49 Deluxe 4dr here that someone put in a 350 csb w/single wire alternator. Trying to convert the system to 12v, have all the bulbs swapped but don't know were to put the reducer for the gas gauge. I can hardly see behind the dash at all!! Is there a convenient location to wire it in?? Also the parts list showed a IR4 from NAPA for the gas gauge, but it's discontinued, they gave me a IR1 instead, is that going to be an issue?



www.NAPAonline.com

Don't understand this post. If poster is running a 350 sb with a 1 wire alt., how is he running anything but a 12 volt system?




 
Mcloud 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 59

Age: 64
Loc: NY
Reg: 12-02-14
02-08-15 07:45 PM - Post#2521706    
    In response to bobg1951chevy

Perhaps a better alternative to the 6 volt-12 volt issue can be found at Randy Rundle's fifthavenueinternetgarage .com. Interesting catalog, too. Their 6 volt alternator has a built-in solid state regulator, greater output, ability to charge at idle, and eliminates of the constant charge-discharge battery cycling. Add their ignition coil with internal resistor that eliminates the old troublesome ballast resistor, and you have a more reliable car. Apologies if I sound like a salesman for the guy, but it makes sense to me.

1950 Styleline Special, 216, 3-On-Tree, stock.


 
WGS53 
Contributor
Posts: 184
WGS53
Loc: Culver, Oregon
Reg: 10-21-13
07-16-15 12:04 PM - Post#2562192    
    In response to Mcloud

Just did this conversion. All went well except that car would not shut off. PROBLEM: DA plug. In all of the articles I've read on this, after conversion, only one (can't remember which one now), mentioned that the DA plug MUST have a diode wired into yellow (white) wire. You can not just go to the parts store, as I did and get the right plug. I ended up with the DA wiring harness from Speedway w/diode, Now all works fine.

1950 Styleline
1953 Chevy 150 4dr
1978 Camaro
1979 Ford Ranchero 500
1997 Jeep Wrangler
2003 Ford F350 7.3
1998 Subaru Forester (My DD)


 
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