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 Page 1 of 2 12
Username Post: Need Advice on a 327 250 HP Build        (Topic#187220)
mmmaxwe 
Contributor
Posts: 289

Reg: 12-28-07
04-14-08 01:08 AM - Post#1410895    

Good day to all,

I am looking for some advice for a simple rebuild I am getting ready to start on. I have a 63 327 250 HP Motor I plan on rebuilding for the one day I find a car I can put this into.
I plan on reusing the PP Heads, changing to a better timing set, new intake, and figure I will use one of my many 650-750 Holleys. I would like to look at getting 350 HP plus without spending a fortune. I expect I can pick up some HP by going with a hotter ignition, freeing up the exhaust, changing to a 4 bbl, all of the little basics.

My questions are as follows.....

Is a 4 / 7 switch worth looking into and what could I get from this in the HP range.

I will look at getting a good timing set which will help, what is the best value for the best performance improvement? What part is recommended?

I would like to keep the comp in the 10:5 to 1 range, and thoughts on this?

What cam will give me the best HP improvement with moderate idle characteristics? I see mention of some in this the link and will also follow up. What is the expected HP increase with a moderate cam in this engine?

Is a Holley 750 too much for the above setup?

What is a good rocker setup to give a good bump in HP while keeping performance/value in mind?

Thank you all for your thoughts?

Mike

 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 18635

Age: 71
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
04-14-08 02:32 AM - Post#1410903    
    In response to mmmaxwe

When you say "4 / 7 switch", are you talking about changing the firing order? If yes, how would you gain anything? You would still have two cylinders next to each other on the same bank firing in succession. Some stock engines (not Chevy) use 18436572. If one firing order were demonstrably better, I would expect everyone to be using it.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
mmmaxwe 
Contributor
Posts: 289

Reg: 12-28-07
04-14-08 02:49 AM - Post#1410908    
    In response to raycow

Good morning,

Here is a bit of info on the 4/7. I ask the question as I hear about it and occasionally read about..... Below is one of the articles I have read....

"Chevrolet has traditionally designed engines with a cylinder firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. While this firing order is determined by the crankshaft layout, it is hardly set in stone. Each cylinder has a "companion" in the firing order. This "companion" cylinder will hit TDC at the same time as its counterpart, one on the power stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke. These cylinders (1 & 6, 2 & 3, 4 & 7, and 5 & 8) can be interchanged in the firing order without altering the crankshaft. Some racers believe that there are gains to be had by switching cylinders #4 and #7 (firing order 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2). This can enhance fuel distribution, especially in open plenum type intake manifolds and add 5 - 10 horsepower.

The drawback is that you can't just switch spark plug wires and go. The cam lobes must be repositioned to accomplish this power stroke/exhaust stroke switch. At one time, this meant that a cam would have to be made from scratch, a time-consuming and expensive process that could mean waiting a month or more for a camshaft.

Crane Cams has been a leader in offering Special Firing Order (SFO) camshafts to racers since the 1970's. (The 4-7 swap is only one of 8 Chevrolet firing orders that we currently grind.) We have had SFO cores available to the public since the mid 1990's. Currently, Crane manufactures 15 different SFO Chevrolet cores to produce hundreds of different grinds. These numbers are growing daily!"

Thoughts?

M

Edited by mmmaxwe on 04-14-08 02:50 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 18635

Age: 71
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
04-14-08 02:59 AM - Post#1410909    
    In response to mmmaxwe

Oh yes, you definitely need a special camshaft to change the firing order. What I was saying was that both 18436572 and 18736542 have been used on stock engines (by different manufacturers). I still think that if one firing order was "better" than the other, everybody would be using it.

As I understand it, you can actually get more power out of the engine by using a "flat" crank (throws spaced at 180┬░ instead of 90┬░), but this configuration is supposed to have problems when used on a street engine.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
dzl9y4 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 43

Loc: Missouri
Reg: 08-19-07
04-14-08 03:37 AM - Post#1410914    
    In response to raycow

It's my understanding the 4/7 switch was used mainly on the circle track stuff. It does offer some gains in power fot their use, but I think we're talking something like ten hp at the upper rpm range. For racers thats alot of gain, for milder stuff you most likely would never see or feel the increase.

As for your goal of 350hp, that isn't much of a problem. Although using your powerpack heads will make it a little harder.

Jay

Current Cars:
1947 Chevy Coupe, Street Rod. SBC 700R4 PS PB Air
1957 Bel Air 2DrHt. 427 SBC 6Spd Man. PS PDB Air
1962 Impala SS 2DrHt 327 Auto PS PB Air


 
rumrumm 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1892
rumrumm
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
04-14-08 06:11 AM - Post#1410973    
    In response to mmmaxwe

Forget about the 4/7 swap. 10.5:1 compression is pretty high for iron heads, and you would need a cam with a lot of overlap to bleed off some pressure. It would be better to shoot for 9.5:1 in order to be safe with pump gas. Your heads will be the biggest drawback to reaching 350 hp. The best thing you could do is to have them bowl blended (pocket ported) when you have the valves ground. It will increase flow. That coupled with headers and a free flowing exhaust will give you the best increase for the money. As far as cam choice, it depends on what the weight of the car is, how much lope you want, and what kind of tranny and rear gears you are running. A 600 cfm carb on top of a Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM intake would be my choice. Upgrade the ignition with an electronic distributor, either an HEI unit or an MSD small body unit.
Lynn

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."


383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock, Sanderson. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 ft. lbs. torque @ 4300.

http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanso n


 
89Corvette 
Senior Member
Posts: 171

Loc: South Haven, MI
Reg: 08-04-05
04-14-08 06:19 AM - Post#1410979    
    In response to rumrumm

Super Chevy magazine did a 2-part 327 build a few months ago, but they used 461x heads. Might be worth checking into.
Mark on the glamorous Lake Michigan coast line
56 Nassau Blue & India Ivory Bel Air
89 Black Corvette Convertible


 
tmsnyder 
Senior Member
Posts: 998
tmsnyder
Loc: Buffalo, NY
Reg: 06-13-06
04-14-08 06:39 AM - Post#1410993    
    In response to mmmaxwe

I just rebuilt a 66 327/250. It had 461 1.94/1.5 heads on it. Are those the heads you have?

Mine needed to be bored, so to raise the compression to 9.5:1 I went with Keith Black KB156 pistons which raise the compression over the stock pistons since I was buying new pistons anyway. Then had it balanced.

For the cam I went with the L-79 327/350hp cam but on here they all recomend more modern cams and they're probably right but I'm going for a nostaglia engine.

For the intake I got one off a 327/350hp engine on ebay. Same for exhaust manifolds, corvette 327/300hp engine casting numbers.

For the heads I had all new valves installed on hardened seats. You need these to run unleaded. The stems were oversized 0.003" and the guides reamed out to match instead of putting in inserts.

The biggest difference I saw by eye was in the intake. The 250hp intake is tiny. And the cam is a lot different too.

Also, as it is now it's not 10.5:1 compression if you do the math or plug the numbers into a compression calculator. Try the one on the Keith Black page, you'll find your stock compression is down around 8.5.

  • mmmaxwe Said:
Good day to all,

I am looking for some advice for a simple rebuild I am getting ready to start on. I have a 63 327 250 HP Motor I plan on rebuilding for the one day I find a car I can put this into.
I plan on reusing the PP Heads, changing to a better timing set, new intake, and figure I will use one of my many 650-750 Holleys. I would like to look at getting 350 HP plus without spending a fortune. I expect I can pick up some HP by going with a hotter ignition, freeing up the exhaust, changing to a 4 bbl, all of the little basics.

My questions are as follows.....

Is a 4 / 7 switch worth looking into and what could I get from this in the HP range.

I will look at getting a good timing set which will help, what is the best value for the best performance improvement? What part is recommended?

I would like to keep the comp in the 10:5 to 1 range, and thoughts on this?

What cam will give me the best HP improvement with moderate idle characteristics? I see mention of some in this the link and will also follow up. What is the expected HP increase with a moderate cam in this engine?

Is a Holley 750 too much for the above setup?

What is a good rocker setup to give a good bump in HP while keeping performance/value in mind?

Thank you all for your thoughts?

Mike


'56 Chevy 4dr 210 327ci
'97 GMC K1500 Suburban 6.5TD


 
rumrumm 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1892
rumrumm
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
04-14-08 08:15 AM - Post#1411049    
    In response to tmsnyder

The early 327s had a static compression of 9:1 stock. That would be with flat top pistons and 64 cc heads, also stock in a 250 hp 327. Once you choose a cam, it is best to check the dynamic compression on the Keith Black website. Staying below 8.0:1 would be what you would want. To recommend a cam, we need to know more about what vehicle you may want to drop it into as weight, tranny, and rear gear ratio will all play roles in making an informed choice.
Lynn

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."


383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock, Sanderson. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 ft. lbs. torque @ 4300.

http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanso n


Edited by rumrumm on 04-14-08 08:16 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MikeB 
Senior Member
Posts: 9479
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
04-14-08 01:31 PM - Post#1411286    
    In response to mmmaxwe

Didn't the 250hp/327 have around 10:1 or less? On today's gas with iron heads and old-tech chambers, I'd say 9:1 would be your max safe CR.

You will pick up more power with a proper advance curve and low restriction exhaust than you will with a cam change. That said, CompCams makes a "Nostalgia Plus" version of the 300hp/327 cam that might be interesting. (As I recall the factory used the same cam in all small blocks from 2-bbl 283 to 300hp/327. The 300 gained the extra 50 horses from heads with bigger valves and a Carter AFB carb.) Other cams that should work are Comp's 260H or XE256H. (I just happen to have a Comp catalog at my desk!)

By the way, I think anything over 600 CFM is overkill for a 327. The popular 350hp/327 used a 585 CFM Holley, and it had 11:1 CR, bigger cam, and big valve heads. On your motor, I'd use a Performer EPS manifold with 500 CFM Edlebrock carb.

My 327 has a solid lifter cam and Brodix heads with 180cc intake runners. Even with a 600 CFM Edlebrock carb, it revs effortlessly from 2500-6000+ RPM, but I always shift well before it gives up.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!

1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, M20, Wilwood front brakes

1982 C-10 SWB pickup, 250 six, 3-speed

My car pictures



Edited by MikeB on 04-14-08 01:38 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
CaptainStompAndSteer 
Junior Contributor
Posts: 451
CaptainStompAndSteer
Age: 32
Loc: Redding Ca
Reg: 01-29-08
04-14-08 04:35 PM - Post#1411432    
    In response to MikeB

I have a 600 cfm Edlebrock carb and a performer intake on my 327. I also have headers and a good 2.5" dual exhuast. My truck runs surpisingly well for what it is and being in a 5000 pound truck. Its not going to break any records or anything but it gets up goes pretty good for what it is.
"May the sun shine in your face and the sparks fly far behind you"


 
tmsnyder 
Senior Member
Posts: 998
tmsnyder
Loc: Buffalo, NY
Reg: 06-13-06
04-16-08 07:10 AM - Post#1412503    
    In response to MikeB

Based on info online I thought my '66 327/250 was 10 or 10.5:1 compression, was worried it would be too high for pump gas. But when I got it to the machine shop he took one look and said 'not with those pistons', they were flat tops. By the time you factor in the thicker head gasket you're at like 8 or 8.5. Keith Black made those KB156 pistons specifically to get the compression up but still be in 93 octane pump gas territory.

And you're right, the 327/300 cam is the same as the 327/250 cam from what I've read too. I have a friend with a 900 point 65 vette with a 327/300 and the idle is very tame and smooth. It's stock all the way and I'm positive it's the correct cam but not as bumpy as I was looking for.

The valves are still 1.94/1.5 in the 327/300 though. I pretty sure only the 327/350 and 327/365 engines got the 2.02/1.6 valves.

The difference between the 250hp and 300hp version is obvious in the intake manifold for sure though. They're like night and day in size of the runners and the bores. The 50hp just came from the intake and carb, possibly the exhaust manifolds, and a creative marketing department!

  • MikeB Said:
Didn't the 250hp/327 have around 10:1 or less?

CompCams makes a "Nostalgia Plus" version of the 300hp/327 cam that might be interesting. (As I recall the factory used the same cam in all small blocks from 2-bbl 283 to 300hp/327. The 300 gained the extra 50 horses from heads with bigger valves and a Carter AFB carb.)


'56 Chevy 4dr 210 327ci
'97 GMC K1500 Suburban 6.5TD


 
txturbo 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3316
txturbo
Loc: Rosenberg,TX USA
Reg: 07-27-01
04-16-08 12:50 PM - Post#1412770    
    In response to tmsnyder

My 390hp 427 in my 66 Impala runs fine on regular unleaded and I think its CR is 10.75:1. I also have a 66 with a 283 and its been running on regular unleaded for 40K miles without hardened seats. If I'm going to be running them hard or something sometimes I buy some octane booster to dump in the tank.
1969 Camaro SS 396/T400
1966 Impala 283/PG/AC
1966 Impala SS 427/4 Speed
1948 Panel 1 Ton
1963 Cadillac
1940 Ford P/U
1954 Chevy 3100
1955.2 Chevy 3100
1956 Cadillac CDV PINK
1930 Model A hot rod
1949 Chevy Styleline Deluxe


 
MikeB 
Senior Member
Posts: 9479
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
04-16-08 06:02 PM - Post#1412976    
    In response to tmsnyder

  • tmsnyder Said:
The valves are still 1.94/1.5 in the 327/300 though.


Man, I thought for sure the 300 had double hump heads with big valves.

Found this on the Corvette Forum:

The difference between a 250 hp and 300 hp Corvette/Pass car engine was the heads, valves, intake, carb and exhaust manifolds in '62-64. In '65, the 250 engine received the heads and valves of the 300 HP engine.

If that's true, does that mean the 250 got 2.02/1.60 valves in 1965 or 1.94/1.50?
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!

1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, M20, Wilwood front brakes

1982 C-10 SWB pickup, 250 six, 3-speed

My car pictures



 
tmsnyder 
Senior Member
Posts: 998
tmsnyder
Loc: Buffalo, NY
Reg: 06-13-06
04-17-08 07:06 AM - Post#1413320    
    In response to MikeB

My 327/250hp engine is date coded late '65 and has 461 double hump heads with 1.94/1.5 valves. I bought it out of the classifieds and it looked correct and unmolested, was tucked in a jam packed barn for 20+ years. Under the valve cover paint were the 250hp stickers, so to me that reads that the 300hp versions got the 1.94/1.5 valves and the 2.02/1.6 went on the 327/350 and 327/365 hp versions. The 365 hp version was the fuel injected engine and that's where the 'fuelie' head name came from. That's my understanding at least.
'56 Chevy 4dr 210 327ci
'97 GMC K1500 Suburban 6.5TD


 
ChevelleFan 
Contributor
Posts: 330
ChevelleFan
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 06-04-04
04-17-08 09:05 AM - Post#1413391    
    In response to MikeB

  • MikeB Said:
  • tmsnyder Said:
The valves are still 1.94/1.5 in the 327/300 though.


Man, I thought for sure the 300 had double hump heads with big valves.

Found this on the Corvette Forum:

The difference between a 250 hp and 300 hp Corvette/Pass car engine was the heads, valves, intake, carb and exhaust manifolds in '62-64. In '65, the 250 engine received the heads and valves of the 300 HP engine.

If that's true, does that mean the 250 got 2.02/1.60 valves in 1965 or 1.94/1.50?



No, I think the 250 got something like 1.72 / 1.5 valve heads originally. My dad's '63 Vette has the 327/250. It's been a long time since I was inside the engine, but I remember the intake valve being positively tiny.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthr...

-Dave
'70 Chevelle xxx/700r4/3.55 / Hotchkis A-arms / Hotchkis Springs / B-body 12" brakes / 1.25" F-body swaybar


 
rumrumm 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1892
rumrumm
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
04-17-08 09:57 AM - Post#1413445    
    In response to tmsnyder

  • tmsnyder Said:
My 327/250hp engine is date coded late '65 and has 461 double hump heads with 1.94/1.5 valves. I bought it out of the classifieds and it looked correct and unmolested, was tucked in a jam packed barn for 20+ years. Under the valve cover paint were the 250hp stickers, so to me that reads that the 300hp versions got the 1.94/1.5 valves and the 2.02/1.6 went on the 327/350 and 327/365 hp versions. The 365 hp version was the fuel injected engine and that's where the 'fuelie' head name came from. That's my understanding at least.



You are very nearly correct--but it was the 375 hp 327 that had the fuel injection. The 365 hp version was carbureted. Both ran the same solid lifter camshaft and domed forged pistons that had 11.25:1 compression (if I remember the stats correctly). The only difference between the two was the induction system.
Lynn

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."


383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock, Sanderson. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 ft. lbs. torque @ 4300.

http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanso n


Edited by rumrumm on 04-17-08 09:58 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MikeB 
Senior Member
Posts: 9479
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
04-17-08 10:06 AM - Post#1413455    
    In response to rumrumm

  • rumrumm Said:
You are very nearly correct--but it was the 375 hp 327 that had the fuel injection. The 365 hp version was carbureted. Both ran the same solid lifter camshaft and domed forged pistons that had 11.25:1 compression (if I remember the stats correctly). The only difference between the two was the induction system.


Yep, and I think the 350hp/327 was identical the the 365 except it had a milder hydraulic camshaft instead of the solid lifter 30-30 cam. Both had high-rise aluminum intakes and a 585 cfm Holley carb. They also made a 325hp/327. I wonder what parts it used?

Man, those were some fun days with all the engines to choose from. But a $3,000 car back then was like me buying a Z07 Corvette today -- ain't gonna happen!
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!

1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, M20, Wilwood front brakes

1982 C-10 SWB pickup, 250 six, 3-speed

My car pictures



Edited by MikeB on 04-17-08 10:11 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
rumrumm 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1892
rumrumm
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
04-17-08 10:17 AM - Post#1413466    
    In response to MikeB

If I was mmmaxwe, and I wanted the 327 to look original, a set of SR Torquer heads would be the ticket--2.02 valves would really make it breathe. If originality was not a concern, I would opt for a set of Vortecs--better choice as far as design and flow. A set of those on a 327 would be the hot ticket, IMO.
Lynn

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."


383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock, Sanderson. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 ft. lbs. torque @ 4300.

http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanso n


 
murfs66 
Senior Member
Posts: 1841
murfs66
Loc: So Cal San Diego
Reg: 03-20-06
04-18-08 07:54 AM - Post#1414182    
    In response to rumrumm

Mike, I just went throught the same delema on my old 327. I found that a nice true roller timing set was the best option and I would defuinately fo with a 600CFM or a 650. I think IMO the 750 is too much carb for a 327 with stocker parts. i would also look into getting a nce set of roller rockers at a 1.5 lift. I looked into cams and am satisfied with the comp 268H. It give plenty of lift and is a great sounding and a daily/steetrod application. As far as a spending budget I would go with a nice pair of vortek heads , but you will also have to by the vortek intake to match . The old setup will not work if your looking for orginality. The intakes have different setups. What king of heads are they? Are they the old camel hump heads?
Line-up.......
64 chevelle 350/350
64 chevelle SS "Project"
66 chevelle 350/350
66 ferd stang (wifes) had to be different!
http://www.picturetrail.com/murfs66






 
MikeB 
Senior Member
Posts: 9479
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
04-18-08 08:25 AM - Post#1414197    
    In response to murfs66

I think Murf's 268H cam is a good choice, too.

For a budget timing set that works with moderate valve spring pressures, this one is about as good as you can get. It costs less than half as much as the "original" true roller.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=...
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!

1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, M20, Wilwood front brakes

1982 C-10 SWB pickup, 250 six, 3-speed

My car pictures



 
TailPipe 
Member
Posts: 91
TailPipe
Loc: Hoosier Land
Reg: 12-03-02
04-18-08 09:26 AM - Post#1414242    
    In response to ChevelleFan

Just to clarify. My stock 65' Impala 327/250hp has 461 heads with 1.94/1.50 valves. The only difference between a 65' 250hp and 300hp were the intake, carburetor (rochester 4-jet to carter afb) and the exhaust manifolds. Heads and cam were the same.

Hope this helps with the cam choice.
Doc's 65 Impala SS 327/700R4 soon to be BBC/700R4


 
TailPipe 
Member
Posts: 91
TailPipe
Loc: Hoosier Land
Reg: 12-03-02
04-18-08 09:28 AM - Post#1414244    
    In response to MikeB

Just to clarify. My stock 65' Impala 327/250hp has 461 heads with 1.94/1.50 valves. The only difference between a 65' 250hp and 300hp were the intake, carburetor (rochester 4-jet to carter afb) and the exhaust manifolds. Heads and cam were the same.

Hope this helps with the cam choice.

Sorry about the double post. I didn't think my connection was working right.
Doc's 65 Impala SS 327/700R4 soon to be BBC/700R4


Edited by TailPipe on 04-18-08 09:31 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
mmmaxwe 
Contributor
Posts: 289

Reg: 12-28-07
04-19-08 02:08 AM - Post#1414776    
    In response to TailPipe

Sorry for being away for so long. My work has been crazy to say the least for the last week. I finally got some peace and quiet today to read through all of the notes. Seems to me the common theme from many of you would be to shelf the original heads for a later date and look at new heads, and a few other goodies. I have seen several kits in Jegs and Summit that take all of the guess work away from the parts and give you 410 or 435 HP for about 1500-1700 bucks. I guess when you look at so many options it seems I could spend some time and money on the existing heads and still not get where I need to or start getting close to the cost of the entire top end kit. I am planning on using this engine in a rod I am drawing up in my head. I have purchased a rebuilt Muncie ready to bolt up and go and I am looking forward to the 327 4 spd combo. I am not to worried about the originality of the engine as I would like to have a high HP high reving engine for a good price. Considering I paid 90 dollars for the complete engine, as the owner thought it was a 283, I do not feel bad spending 1500+ as I will still be in the clear and have a great motor. I know 410+ HP is way more than I will need for what I am going to build, however, lots of HP not used is better than HP needed and not available. I am sure some of you have seen the kits I mention above. I would think you may have an opinion on these kits as well.

Thank you for the great feedback. I was trying my best to keep the heads and knowing they would be the biggest obstacle. You all have helped me over the self imposed block of shelving the heads, however, this is going to be the end result. The 327 was always my favorite motor since I was a kid and I am happy to have a pretty good one to start with.

M

Edited by mmmaxwe on 04-19-08 02:10 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
mmmaxwe 
Contributor
Posts: 289

Reg: 12-28-07
04-19-08 02:13 AM - Post#1414777    
    In response to rumrumm

Thank you for the advice.

Who has the best deal on the Vortec Heads?

 
mmmaxwe 
Contributor
Posts: 289

Reg: 12-28-07
04-19-08 02:38 AM - Post#1414779    
    In response to mmmaxwe

So here is another idea------different than the mention of the kit above. The below may be the most economical with the best return for the money spent.

Keep the heads as they were the same on the 300 HP version----and will need to change the Intake to an aftermarket. (Which would be the best for the heads)
Use a 268H Cam
Change the rockers to a 1.5 rollers
600-650 Holley---I think I have an extra pre emission carb
Timing set as recommended in the link
Free Up the exhaust as we all would
Hotter ignition system

Estimated HP would be my question???? As it seems all of this woudl work well together.

M





Edited by mmmaxwe on 04-19-08 02:40 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
MikeB 
Senior Member
Posts: 9479
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
04-19-08 07:17 AM - Post#1414886    
    In response to mmmaxwe

I would also use the valve springs recommended by CompCams shimmed to 1.700" installed height. And make that a 600 Holley -- or Edelbrock if you don't like to tinker with carbs. I guess a Performer RPM manifold (#7101) or Weiand Stealth (#8150) will let the motor rev a little more than a Performer EPS.

Lots of different ways to go on an ignition system. A GM HEI coil-in-cap distributor will work well with very little maintenance, but I wouldn't buy a no-name cheapie. Also, an MSD 8360 and Summit Racing SUM-G5215 coil will do the trick.

If you have a pre-74 points distributor and want to save some money, Crane makes an electronic conversion kit for it (P/N 750-1710 for $65). I'm not sure your motor will realize any benefit with a separate ignition box.

Horsepower? Maybe 300-325. Probably another 25-40 with GM Vortecs or aftermarket heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, 180cc intake ports, and high swirl chambers.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!

1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, M20, Wilwood front brakes

1982 C-10 SWB pickup, 250 six, 3-speed

My car pictures



Edited by MikeB on 04-19-08 07:28 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
4spd409 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 534

Loc: West Fargo ND
Reg: 10-10-02
04-19-08 07:37 PM - Post#1415247    
    In response to TailPipe

Aren't the exhaust manifolds the same on 65 250 and 300hp 327s? The 62-64 300hp used a 2 1/2 inch outlet and the 250hp used a 2 inch. I think they only had 2 inch outlet manifolds in 65. They used a new style on one side that angled back for clearance. I have never seem a 65 up 2 1/2 Impala exhaust manifold.
61 Impala Bubbletop


 
Trucked_up 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4946

Loc: 315 er
Reg: 03-23-02
04-20-08 03:41 AM - Post#1415388    
    In response to 4spd409

I believe 62-64 250 hp used the single hump 283 heads, intake manifold,exhaust and WCFB carb. The 300 hp had two hump heads,AFB carb and different intake.


 
mmmaxwe 
Contributor
Posts: 289

Reg: 12-28-07
04-20-08 02:43 PM - Post#1415792    
    In response to Trucked_up

If I remember correctly the head castings are 3795896. Seems these are PP for the 60's.

Mike

 
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