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Username Post: More than one way to prime an oil pump?        (Topic#186660)
DZ302LC 
Member
Posts: 166

Reg: 03-29-04
04-07-08 10:16 AM - Post#1405929    

I just installed a new oil pump. I disconnected the coil wire and cranked the motor over just like I do whenever I change oil. When I fired the motor I got no pressure. I then remembered that you must prime the pump when installing a new one. I read that forcing Vaseline between the gears was the way to do this. However, I've already got the pan on and sealed nice and tight with silicone. Is there any other way to gain oil pressure short of removing the pan? Will the drill down the distributor hole suck oil into the dry pump?

 
sierra_5.3 
Contributor
Posts: 454
sierra_5.3
Loc: South Louisiana
Reg: 03-29-07
04-07-08 10:18 AM - Post#1405933    
    In response to DZ302LC

Yes if you use a drill it will spin fast enough to prime the pump. Just make sure you are spinning the right direction.
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BrianEsser 
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Loc: North Star, Ohio
Reg: 06-30-01
04-07-08 10:19 AM - Post#1405936    
    In response to DZ302LC

Yes it will, just make sure NOT to press down on the drill as you do it so you're not forcing the impellers into the cover. It will take a bit longer to do it. I did it that way with my LT1 and in a few seconds had 70lbs oil pressure with a cheapie electric drill that was smoking. lol


 
DZ302LC 
Member
Posts: 166

Reg: 03-29-04
04-07-08 10:32 AM - Post#1405950    
    In response to BrianEsser

Thanks guys. I'll try it tonight. Oh, I assume it's spun clockwise??

Edited by DZ302LC on 04-07-08 10:46 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15612

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
04-07-08 10:37 AM - Post#1405955    
    In response to DZ302LC

You should use the drill powered priming tool. There are any number of them here:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/ser vlet/cate...

There is another way, though it doesn't occur to most people. I use this when an oil pump is particularly difficult to prime (even with the tool) or if a priming tool is not available for the motor I'm working on.

I seal up the valve covers, the oil fill hole, the dipstick hole, and/or and other hole that would let air out of the crankcase. I then remove the oil pressure tap on the oil galley. Finally, I pressurize the crankcase with an air hose, and I continue to add air until oil comes out the oil galley pressure tap. You HAVE TO take out the oil galley pressure tap, so that the air pressure has somewhere to force the oil out. If you don't take the oil pressure tap out, this method won't work.

I just had to do this recently on a tractor I rebuilt, because the motor had a crank driven oil pump and there was no way to "prime" the motor by spinning the oil pump.

If this method can't be applied for whatever reason, you can build a fixture to feed pressurized oil into a oil galley pressure tap - similar to what is done in an oil pressure accumulator.

 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 16197
grumpyvette
Age: 66
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
04-07-08 10:48 AM - Post#1405965    
    In response to Vaughn

your AIR POWERED RATCHET WRENCH used on a socket welded to the upper end of the priming tool tends to work very effectively and generally WON,T overheat as fast as an electric drill and can have a higher torque available
chevy oil pumps generally SELF PRIME if the sump oil levels well up over the oil pump pick-up, but taking the pump apart before installing it to check for clearance issues and metalic crud is a great idea and a bit of moly grease on the gears surfaces and internal pump surface wont hurt either durring the assembly and install
" " IF YOU CAN'T SMOKE THE TIRES FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK !"


Edited by grumpyvette on 04-07-08 10:56 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
murfs66 
Senior Member
Posts: 1841
murfs66
Loc: So Cal San Diego
Reg: 03-20-06
04-07-08 12:26 PM - Post#1406050    
    In response to grumpyvette

You can also find the tool at the loan a tool program at autozone. I left a deposite and then go the money back when I was done. Its the same one pictured above.
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BrianEsser 
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Age: 38
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04-07-08 12:35 PM - Post#1406063    
    In response to murfs66

I bought one of the cheaper tools that is just the shaft, then took an olds points distributer and cut the top off. Works just as well and was like $3 total investment.


 
motorman 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5176

Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
04-07-08 01:06 PM - Post#1406082    
    In response to DZ302LC

  • DZ302LC Said:
I just installed a new oil pump. I disconnected the coil wire and cranked the motor over just like I do whenever I change oil. When I fired the motor I got no pressure. I then remembered that you must prime the pump when installing a new one. I read that forcing Vaseline between the gears was the way to do this. However, I've already got the pan on and sealed nice and tight with silicone. Is there any other way to gain oil pressure short of removing the pan? Will the drill down the distributor hole suck oil into the dry pump?

only oil pumps mounted outside the oil pan need to be filled with any substance. chevy oil pumps should prime themselves as they are submerged in the oil in the pan
retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way. 2008 corvette sold and waiting on a C-7.


 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15612

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
04-07-08 01:48 PM - Post#1406100    
    In response to motorman

Chevy oil pump sumps are relatively short, as motorman said. Some of the long aftermarket pumps will prime themselves fairly easily because the pump is submerged, but stock pumps are a little above the oil fill level so they may not prime as easily. They usually will prime themselves, but it is better to prime the motor with a drill attachment than to chance a dry start.

The air pressure method I mentioned above works particularly well on motors that have very long pickup tubes - like Cadillacs, Mopars and small block fords.

 
bowtie468 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 89
bowtie468
Loc: Ambler, PA
Reg: 01-11-08
04-07-08 04:15 PM - Post#1406204    
    In response to Vaughn

I just took an old alum. chevy distributor and chucked it in the lathe and turned the points head end down, and the top of the shaft for a power drill , see pic, I have used this tool for years it works very well for big and small blocks, and I don't stop priming until I have oil out of every pushrod, you might have to turn the engine 90* by hand a few times to get oil everywhere and yes you turn Chevys clockwise


 
bowtie468 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 89
bowtie468
Loc: Ambler, PA
Reg: 01-11-08
04-07-08 04:17 PM - Post#1406205    
    In response to bowtie468

Sorry Brian I didn't read all of the posts, you did the same thing that I did works well dosen't it

 
BrianEsser 
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Age: 38
Loc: North Star, Ohio
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04-07-08 05:05 PM - Post#1406235    
    In response to bowtie468

Sure does. I've used it on probably a dozen or more engines and it's worked like a charm every time.


 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 25770

Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
04-08-08 11:04 AM - Post#1406726    
    In response to DZ302LC

I have had an inadvertently dry pump refuse to prime with the drill powered priming method. Even with repeated attempts and trying various tricks. I had to pull the pan.

But you don't have a lot to lose trying - relative to pulling the pan.

 
bowtie468 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 89
bowtie468
Loc: Ambler, PA
Reg: 01-11-08
04-08-08 11:52 AM - Post#1406769    
    In response to Rick_L

Wow I have done several engines over the years, I have made tools for the Ford smallblock, Mopar small block, Pontiac, I have never had one that wouldn't prime, Wow that must be a bummer, although I always do prime mine on the engine stand , then if it dosen't prime its easier to get to the pump!!!

 
motorman 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5176

Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
04-08-08 03:38 PM - Post#1406940    
    In response to Rick_L

if a chevy pump does not self prime i would guess the pressure relieve valve is stuck open.
retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way. 2008 corvette sold and waiting on a C-7.


 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15612

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
04-08-08 08:13 PM - Post#1407253    
    In response to motorman

Or, you could be running the drill motor in reverse relative to the oil pumps direction of rotation. I've seen it happen to a few people. I always run it both ways to make sure I'm not running it in reverse.

 
motorman 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5176

Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
04-08-08 11:33 PM - Post#1407348    
    In response to Vaughn

if you run it reverse you should hear the oil "bubbling" as air is being forced out of the pickup.
retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way. 2008 corvette sold and waiting on a C-7.


 
85Camaro 
Senior Member
Posts: 1145

Loc: East TN
Reg: 07-14-01
04-09-08 06:46 AM - Post#1407454    
    In response to DZ302LC


The first question is why did you replace the oil pump? Unless it broke in two there is usually no reason to replace a SBC oil pump.

Did you fill the oil filter with oil first? I've never had a SBC not prime on it's own. Overfill the crankcase with a couple of quarts which would submerge the pump body, but I really don't see the need.

 
BrianEsser 
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Age: 38
Loc: North Star, Ohio
Reg: 06-30-01
04-09-08 07:27 AM - Post#1407485    
    In response to 85Camaro

  • Quote:
The first question is why did you replace the oil pump? Unless it broke in two there is usually no reason to replace a SBC oil pump.




Maybe he wanted a hi-volume/ Or the old one was just worn out. They DO wear out and need replacing.


 
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 25770

Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
04-10-08 05:06 AM - Post#1408177    
    In response to motorman

"if a chevy pump does not self prime i would guess the pressure relieve valve is stuck open"

The one that I had this happen with didn't have any problem except that I assembled it dry by mistake. The drill motor was not running backwards. I found the problem while it was on the engine stand, dropped the pan, took the pump apart, lubed it, and put everything back together. It was not a new pump. It was a freshen up on a race engine, and the pump worked fine before and after this problem.

I would have never expected to have this happen, but it did.

 
MikeB 
Senior Member
Posts: 9479
MikeB
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
04-10-08 08:30 AM - Post#1408296    
    In response to DZ302LC

How long did you crank the motor over before it fired, and how long did it run? I would have expected to see pressure after 5 seconds of cranking/running.
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txturbo 
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txturbo
Loc: Rosenberg,TX USA
Reg: 07-27-01
04-15-08 01:33 PM - Post#1412094    
    In response to MikeB

I've always just left the plugs out and spun it over with the starter until I get oil pressure.Put the plugs in and go. If the motor was lubed when assembled its not gonna hurt anything to spin it over with the starter for a few seconds until pressure builds.
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