DZ302LC
Member
Posts: 166
Reg: 03-29-04
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04-07-08 10:16 AM - Post#1405929
I just installed a new oil pump. I disconnected the coil wire and cranked the motor over just like I do whenever I change oil. When I fired the motor I got no pressure. I then remembered that you must prime the pump when installing a new one. I read that forcing Vaseline between the gears was the way to do this. However, I've already got the pan on and sealed nice and tight with silicone. Is there any other way to gain oil pressure short of removing the pan? Will the drill down the distributor hole suck oil into the dry pump?
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sierra_5.3
Contributor
Posts: 481
Loc: South Louisiana
Reg: 03-29-07
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04-07-08 10:18 AM - Post#1405933
In response to DZ302LC
Yes if you use a drill it will spin fast enough to prime the pump. Just make sure you are spinning the right direction.
To walk a mile you have to start with a single step.
'66 Chevy C-10 Short Bed, Fleetside, Big Window. 383/700r4
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BrianEsser
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04-07-08 10:19 AM - Post#1405936
In response to DZ302LC
Yes it will, just make sure NOT to press down on the drill as you do it so you're not forcing the impellers into the cover. It will take a bit longer to do it. I did it that way with my LT1 and in a few seconds had 70lbs oil pressure with a cheapie electric drill that was smoking. lol
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DZ302LC
Member
Posts: 166
Reg: 03-29-04
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04-07-08 10:32 AM - Post#1405950
In response to BrianEsser
Thanks guys. I'll try it tonight. Oh, I assume it's spun clockwise??
Edited by DZ302LC on 04-07-08 10:46 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 Vaughn
"15th Year" Gold Supporting Member
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Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
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04-07-08 10:37 AM - Post#1405955
In response to DZ302LC
You should use the drill powered priming tool. There are any number of them here:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/ser vlet/cate...
There is another way, though it doesn't occur to most people. I use this when an oil pump is particularly difficult to prime (even with the tool) or if a priming tool is not available for the motor I'm working on.
I seal up the valve covers, the oil fill hole, the dipstick hole, and/or and other hole that would let air out of the crankcase. I then remove the oil pressure tap on the oil galley. Finally, I pressurize the crankcase with an air hose, and I continue to add air until oil comes out the oil galley pressure tap. You HAVE TO take out the oil galley pressure tap, so that the air pressure has somewhere to force the oil out. If you don't take the oil pressure tap out, this method won't work.
I just had to do this recently on a tractor I rebuilt, because the motor had a crank driven oil pump and there was no way to "prime" the motor by spinning the oil pump.
If this method can't be applied for whatever reason, you can build a fixture to feed pressurized oil into a oil galley pressure tap - similar to what is done in an oil pressure accumulator.
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 grumpyvette
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
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04-07-08 10:48 AM - Post#1405965
In response to Vaughn
your AIR POWERED RATCHET WRENCH used on a socket welded to the upper end of the priming tool tends to work very effectively and generally WON,T overheat as fast as an electric drill and can have a higher torque available
chevy oil pumps generally SELF PRIME if the sump oil levels well up over the oil pump pick-up, but taking the pump apart before installing it to check for clearance issues and metalic crud is a great idea and a bit of moly grease on the gears surfaces and internal pump surface wont hurt either durring the assembly and install
IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!! |
Edited by grumpyvette on 04-07-08 10:56 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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murfs66
Senior Member
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04-07-08 12:26 PM - Post#1406050
In response to grumpyvette
You can also find the tool at the loan a tool program at autozone. I left a deposite and then go the money back when I was done. Its the same one pictured above.
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BrianEsser
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04-07-08 12:35 PM - Post#1406063
In response to murfs66
I bought one of the cheaper tools that is just the shaft, then took an olds points distributer and cut the top off. Works just as well and was like $3 total investment.
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motorman
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5189
Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
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04-07-08 01:06 PM - Post#1406082
In response to DZ302LC
I just installed a new oil pump. I disconnected the coil wire and cranked the motor over just like I do whenever I change oil. When I fired the motor I got no pressure. I then remembered that you must prime the pump when installing a new one. I read that forcing Vaseline between the gears was the way to do this. However, I've already got the pan on and sealed nice and tight with silicone. Is there any other way to gain oil pressure short of removing the pan? Will the drill down the distributor hole suck oil into the dry pump?
only oil pumps mounted outside the oil pan need to be filled with any substance. chevy oil pumps should prime themselves as they are submerged in the oil in the pan
| retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way. 2008 corvette sold and waiting on a C-7. |
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Vaughn
"15th Year" Gold Supporting Member
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04-07-08 01:48 PM - Post#1406100
In response to motorman
Chevy oil pump sumps are relatively short, as motorman said. Some of the long aftermarket pumps will prime themselves fairly easily because the pump is submerged, but stock pumps are a little above the oil fill level so they may not prime as easily. They usually will prime themselves, but it is better to prime the motor with a drill attachment than to chance a dry start.
The air pressure method I mentioned above works particularly well on motors that have very long pickup tubes - like Cadillacs, Mopars and small block fords.
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bowtie468
Forum Newbie
Posts: 89
Loc: Ambler, PA
Reg: 01-11-08
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04-07-08 04:15 PM - Post#1406204
In response to Vaughn
I just took an old alum. chevy distributor and chucked it in the lathe and turned the points head end down, and the top of the shaft for a power drill , see pic, I have used this tool for years it works very well for big and small blocks, and I don't stop priming until I have oil out of every pushrod, you might have to turn the engine 90* by hand a few times to get oil everywhere and yes you turn Chevys clockwise
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bowtie468
Forum Newbie
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Loc: Ambler, PA
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04-07-08 04:17 PM - Post#1406205
In response to bowtie468
Sorry Brian I didn't read all of the posts, you did the same thing that I did works well dosen't it
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BrianEsser
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04-07-08 05:05 PM - Post#1406235
In response to bowtie468
Sure does. I've used it on probably a dozen or more engines and it's worked like a charm every time.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
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04-08-08 11:04 AM - Post#1406726
In response to DZ302LC
I have had an inadvertently dry pump refuse to prime with the drill powered priming method. Even with repeated attempts and trying various tricks. I had to pull the pan.
But you don't have a lot to lose trying - relative to pulling the pan.
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bowtie468
Forum Newbie
Posts: 89
Loc: Ambler, PA
Reg: 01-11-08
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04-08-08 11:52 AM - Post#1406769
In response to Rick_L
Wow I have done several engines over the years, I have made tools for the Ford smallblock, Mopar small block, Pontiac, I have never had one that wouldn't prime, Wow that must be a bummer, although I always do prime mine on the engine stand , then if it dosen't prime its easier to get to the pump!!!
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motorman
Dedicated Enthusiast
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Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
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04-08-08 03:38 PM - Post#1406940
In response to Rick_L
if a chevy pump does not self prime i would guess the pressure relieve valve is stuck open.
| retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way. 2008 corvette sold and waiting on a C-7. |
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Vaughn
"15th Year" Gold Supporting Member
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04-08-08 08:13 PM - Post#1407253
In response to motorman
Or, you could be running the drill motor in reverse relative to the oil pumps direction of rotation. I've seen it happen to a few people. I always run it both ways to make sure I'm not running it in reverse.
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motorman
Dedicated Enthusiast
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Reg: 01-25-00
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04-08-08 11:33 PM - Post#1407348
In response to Vaughn
if you run it reverse you should hear the oil "bubbling" as air is being forced out of the pickup.
| retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way. 2008 corvette sold and waiting on a C-7. |
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85Camaro
Senior Member
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Loc: East TN
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04-09-08 06:46 AM - Post#1407454
In response to DZ302LC
The first question is why did you replace the oil pump? Unless it broke in two there is usually no reason to replace a SBC oil pump.
Did you fill the oil filter with oil first? I've never had a SBC not prime on it's own. Overfill the crankcase with a couple of quarts which would submerge the pump body, but I really don't see the need.
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BrianEsser
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04-09-08 07:27 AM - Post#1407485
In response to 85Camaro
The first question is why did you replace the oil pump? Unless it broke in two there is usually no reason to replace a SBC oil pump.
Maybe he wanted a hi-volume/ Or the old one was just worn out. They DO wear out and need replacing.
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Rick_L
Honored Member
Posts: 27353
Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
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04-10-08 05:06 AM - Post#1408177
In response to motorman
"if a chevy pump does not self prime i would guess the pressure relieve valve is stuck open"
The one that I had this happen with didn't have any problem except that I assembled it dry by mistake. The drill motor was not running backwards. I found the problem while it was on the engine stand, dropped the pan, took the pump apart, lubed it, and put everything back together. It was not a new pump. It was a freshen up on a race engine, and the pump worked fine before and after this problem.
I would have never expected to have this happen, but it did.
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MikeB
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10058
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04-10-08 08:30 AM - Post#1408296
In response to DZ302LC
How long did you crank the motor over before it fired, and how long did it run? I would have expected to see pressure after 5 seconds of cranking/running.
1982 C10 SWB pickup: Unmolested base truck, original paint. Originally had 250 six and 3-on-the-tree
Now has 355 with Vortec heads, RamJet roller cam, LS6 beehive springs, TH350
Retired, but working part-time on 50s-70s cars & trucks.
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txturbo
Valued Contributor
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04-15-08 01:33 PM - Post#1412094
In response to MikeB
I've always just left the plugs out and spun it over with the starter until I get oil pressure.Put the plugs in and go. If the motor was lubed when assembled its not gonna hurt anything to spin it over with the starter for a few seconds until pressure builds.
Dan
1969 Camaro SS 396/T400
1966 Impala 283/PG/AC
1966 Impala SS 427/4 Speed
1948 Panel 1 Ton
1963 Cadillac
1940 Ford P/U
1954 Chevy 3100
1955.2 Chevy 3100
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