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Username Post: screw hole for distributor cap screw        (Topic#179322)
Posts: 69

Reg: 05-02-03
01-11-08 09:18 AM - Post#1340267    

Trying to reinstall my distributor cap and the threaded hole in the distributor that the screw for the distributer cap goes into broke! I now realize that it’s plastic. I’d think it would be more durable. Maybe mine is just old and brittle. It broke straight across the hole. I didn’t over tighten it or anything.

Anyway, has anyone ever had this happen to them? If it was the cap that broke, it would be an easy fix, but this is the part on the distributor. Anyone have any suggestions on what to do? I’m hoping that maybe there is enough plastic left under there that I can get a nut to wedge under it and just use a longer screw with a nut. If that doesn’t work, what are my other choices without having to buy another distributor? Use some RTV gasket maker and just seal it down???

Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
01-11-08 10:59 AM - Post#1340346    
    In response to cptkid570

Yes, it has happened numerous times and reported here with the same issues. I've only fixed one for another guy and lucky or not, he had an intake leak that he had been putting off so the fix was involved at that time. But up until the time he did the fix, I did make a small tab with a hole in it, long on one side to fold under the body and use a longer screw and nut to hold it.

Most have fixed theirs with either a new distributor or like this one, I got a new body and moved the guts of the old over into it. But most of their ideas of "new" meant rebuilt from a "zonz" store and that is not something I would choose.

I've also seen people use a loop of wire over and under the body of the distributor, then just twist tight. Maybe one of those long plastic zip-ties would be a better choice.

But for me, I would choose one of those options til it was time for it to come out.

I've always re-used the original screws that came in mine, and just snug it down. I'm knockin on wood too.

Posts: 69

Reg: 05-02-03
01-11-08 11:36 AM - Post#1340377    
    In response to CDAUSA

I also wish the screws were just phillips head and not the hex that they are, but that's a whole different point..haha

Thank you for your ideas, I appreciate it very much.

Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
01-11-08 02:16 PM - Post#1340496    
    In response to cptkid570

Related but not the same. OEM screws for the flat/horizontal cap are #10475922 and retail for $1.24 each. Also listed are "oversize" screws for stripped holes, #10457666 and retail for $6.21 each.

Needless to say, that's an "ouchy" price, but at least they list them in case they strip out.
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Posts: 69

Reg: 05-02-03
01-11-08 02:18 PM - Post#1340498    
    In response to Phazer

Good info.. problem is, mine didn't strip out, the tab that the screw hole is in broke (1/2 of it broke off)..

Posts: 25571
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
01-11-08 03:34 PM - Post#1340536    
    In response to cptkid570

Yep, you're at the crossroads of rig it or replace it. I've seen some manage to get it held down with a zip tie on the side with the broken tab, but that's a last ditch effort if you ask me. You don't want the cap wiggling or cock-eyed.

Just be sure that since you're a Vortec, when you do go to replace the distributor, mark not only the position of the distributor body but the rotor as well. They both need to be very, very close back in place when you stab the new distributor or you'll have heck getting it to run right. Then, you may still need to fine-tune the timing with a Tech II or similar scanner.

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Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
01-11-08 04:06 PM - Post#1340559    
    In response to cptkid570

  • cptkid570 Said:
I also wish the screws were just phillips head and not the hex that they are, but that's a whole different point..haha

I'm not sure if I understand your concerns, but that I rigged up I just used a machine screw with a self locking nut, washer and tab. It's a booger to get to though.

What I referred to in using a zip tie, is going full circle around (over the top) the cap and hooked under the body of the distributor. Going inbetween chosen terminals of the cap to keep it centered. Get the cap centered and that thing pulled tight, it ain't going anywhere.

Posts: 69

Reg: 05-02-03
01-14-08 08:23 AM - Post#1342435    
    In response to CDAUSA

I was going to use a screw with a nut on it, but the screw I'd gotten didn't match the threads perfectly, but it worked out well because the new screw somehow grabbed onto the tab and held it down, so all is good. If need be, I will get in it with a nut, but all seems fine.

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