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Username Post: 91 Chevy 1500 Driver Power Window INOP        (Topic#176965)
db46062 
Newbie
Posts: 12

Loc: Central Indiana
Reg: 12-12-07
12-12-07 10:47 AM - Post#1316826    

Hi everyone. Since obtaining my fathers 91 Chevy 1500 a month back, I have been reading and getting tons of information from this forum. Thanks to everyone for all the topics.

I now have a question. The driver side power window on this 91 1500 is INOP. I am looking for a way to trouble shoot the power window switch and also a way to remove the door panel to gain access to the switch. Any input on how best to remove the panel and trouble shoot the switch or why the power window will not operate? The passenger side works fine from the driver side door switches.

Also, any information on the fuse panel on this truck?

Thanks in Advance.
1991 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD Ext cab 5.7L TBI/Auto


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25613
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
12-12-07 11:29 AM - Post#1316862    
    In response to db46062

Howdy and welcome to the forum;

Look up the wiring diagrams on Autozone's website. You can pop the wiring harness off the back of each switch and carefully jumper the pins to run the motor up/down; I've done this before in the junkyard with a jump box so I could take inner doors apart.

The motors usually don't quit so I'd suspect the switch. You could also just swap switches as a test.

What fuse panel info do you need? As far as the window motors, both are covered by the same fuse, so that won't be the problem here.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 94 C1500 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
Phazer 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
12-12-07 11:41 AM - Post#1316875    
    In response to db46062

Alot of power window and door lock problems can also be broken wires in the conduit between the body and door. If that ends up being the problem, don't be tempted to use a "butt connector" to just simply rejoin them. They broke because of the constant flexing of the door opening and closing. your better off, (if the wires are broke) to replace using a piece about a foot long and make the splice/connection inside the door and the other behind the kick-panel.

Don't jump to conclusions, do all the other checks first because that conduit is a tight place to work.

Windows are run off a circuit-breaker, (not fuse) but as someotherguy said, if the RH works, the breaker is good.
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

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someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25613
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
12-12-07 12:21 PM - Post#1316896    
    In response to Phazer

Oops, my bad. Forgot it was a breaker. You think I'd remember after my troubles in the Suburban where the stereo shop guys put a door speaker screw through the harness and it took swapping the breaker out with 2 spares just to get the windows back up before a storm hit. They get hot.. FAST.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 94 C1500 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
nickmac 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1067
nickmac
Loc: Scandia, PA
Reg: 02-13-07
12-12-07 07:31 PM - Post#1317220    
    In response to someotherguy

Also make sure the roller didn't jump off the track and is causing a bind. You should be able to see after the door panel is off. Take the door panel off by removing the screw in the arm rest and then pull gently around the bottom and sides. There are plastic pieces that snap in. I think there was only the one screw.
Dan
'05 Chevy TrailBlazer 4.2 4x4
'04 Chevy K1500 Silverado 5.3. 4x4


 
PhilS 
Member
Posts: 84

Loc: Paradise, CA, USA
Reg: 03-10-02
12-13-07 11:43 AM - Post#1317664    
    In response to db46062

I have the same problem with my '91 K2500 although the cause is probably different than your truck. Because it took a long time to troubleshoot I'll post here "just in case" it'll help you or others searching the forum with the same problem.

I bought the truck from a dealer some years ago. Within days the window wouldn't go down. I called the dealer and they said they'd replaced the motor and switch before putting it on the lot. I decided to fix it myself rather than deal with the 2 hour round trip to the dealer.

LONG troubleshooting story made short:

A small weld was broken at the bottom of one of the window channels.

Put the window up and the assembly would flex inside the door (you could barely see it via the gap between the window and the top door skin trim). Then the window wouldn't go down.

Put the window down, same flex and subsequently wouldn't go back up.

Proper fix would be repairing the weld with a rivet but it is VERY hard to access with a drill.

What has worked for years is this 'workaround':

After putting the window either all the way up or down, quickly touch and release the opposite button just enough to relieve the flex (as witnessed by the gap between window and door trim returning to normal).

If I forget or someone else uses my truck, a hard fist into the inside door panel (while holding the button in the desired direction) will usually free it up again. Sometimes it's 2 or 3 punches to the door interior.

It's about the easiest test you can do: Sock the door!

And better than replacing a motor or a switch and having the problem keep reappearing. I learned that taking the motor out and reinstalling it would somehow make the door work for 2 or 3 days then back to the same.

Phil

 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 13552
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
12-14-07 05:32 AM - Post#1318249    
    In response to PhilS

If you hit the door on the area where the motor is and the window starts to work, that usually means you have a bad spot in the motor. There should be a screw in the arm rest and behind the lock slider and you have to take the trim off around the handle (if I am remembering correctly what your door panel looks like). Then you can pry/pull off the panel. You can test the switch with a test light to see if you have power coming in and leaving the switch. You can also use the test light to see if you have power to the motor. There are usualy just two wires to the motor. One carries power with the switch in the up position and the other when the switch is in the down position. You can also disconnect the harness from the motor and jump the motor with a jumper box or battery charger to se if the mototr is good. If the motor works okay in both directions, then you probably don't have power on one of the wires in one direction. That would mean a bad switch or broken wire. If you don't have power coming into the switch you have a broken wire before the switch or a bad circuit breaker.
Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon


 
PhilS 
Member
Posts: 84

Loc: Paradise, CA, USA
Reg: 03-10-02
12-14-07 06:25 PM - Post#1318729    
    In response to wagonman100

Jay,

Your troubleshooting methods are correct and I've done those same things. In this truck tho I guarantee it's a flex problem because:

1) changing the motor and switch doesn't fix it and
2) I can see the broken weld and watch the whole assembly "tweak" inside the door and
3) I've had that door apart countless times, had the motor out a half-dozen times to test and reinstall (and it's a new motor) and
4) it binds both fully up and fully down, which would be quite a coincidence for a bad spot on a new motor and
5) it works perfectly as long as the flex is removed immediately and removing the flex just puts the window at the proper height.... meaning it doesn't whistle or leak air while driving.

I didn't want to bore anyone with the month I spent figuring this out but also figured if it happened to me it could happen to someone else.

And it's the kinda thing that would drive a mechanic crazy because after removing and replacing the same motor it'd usually work for a day or three (but not always). So it would be back and forth to a shop, leaving the shop in working condition and a day or two later back in the shop. I'm GLAD I chose to NOT take it clear back to the dealer as I'd have spent enough time and fuel to buy a new door.

Phil

 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 13552
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
12-15-07 12:56 PM - Post#1319135    
    In response to PhilS

  • Quote:
I didn't want to bore anyone with the month I spent figuring this out but also figured if it happened to me it could happen to someone else.




You're absolutely correct Phil. That is why I said it is usually a bad spot in the motor. Obviously if you see another problem, that would probably be it. And it is a good thing you pointed out that potential problem to look for. It would be a hard thing to spot, as you said. I certainly didn't mean to suggest you were wrong. Sorry if it came off that way. Plus your problem occurred in the full up and full down positions. Bad spots usually occur in one position only.
Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon


 
db46062 
Newbie
Posts: 12

Loc: Central Indiana
Reg: 12-12-07
12-26-07 08:51 PM - Post#1327783    
    In response to wagonman100

Thanks everyone for the help. Last week I was able to take the door apart and swapped the drivers and passenger side switches and the drivers side window still would not work and the passnegers side window still worked. Checked voltages at each switch and had power at both switch locations. I sprayed some lubricant on the different pivot points on the flex assembly in which the window sat on. I then took my hands and placed on each side of the drivers side window while pushing the 'down' window button. The window became loose and the window would move up and down. I sprayed lubricant at different points with the window in different positions. Been over a week since I did that and havent had a problem...yet. Hope I never will.

Thanks to everyone who provided input.
1991 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD Ext cab 5.7L TBI/Auto


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
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