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Username Post: Ball Joint and Tie Rod Torque Specs        (Topic#151482)
Winmon 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2496
Winmon
Age: 50
Loc: Sequim, Wa.
Reg: 10-01-03
02-12-07 03:07 PM - Post#1094589    

How tight do ball joints and tie rods need to be torqued down to?
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dav56 
Senior Member
Posts: 252
dav56
Loc: sumner,washington
Reg: 01-13-03
02-12-07 03:59 PM - Post#1094638    
    In response to Winmon

Dave,torque the ball joint to 70lbs,tie rod ends 60.That should put you in the ballpark.Make sure to replace the cotter pins.
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inferno 55 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1649
inferno 55
Age: 75
Loc: Rogers, Arkansas
Reg: 11-10-02
02-12-07 04:25 PM - Post#1094665    
    In response to Winmon

Control arms to frame: 65-75 ft lbs.
Ball Joints: 45 ft lbs
Pitman arm: 100-150 ft lbs
Idler bushings: 30-35 ft lbs
Tie rod ends: 29-43 ft lbs
Control arm bushings:Curb height, all weight on them: 45-55 ft lbs.
Pitman arm ball: Tighten screw tell stops, then back off 3/8 to 3/4 and line up cotter key.
Bob

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dukeofbluz 
Senior Member
Posts: 883
dukeofbluz
Loc: IL
Reg: 12-15-03
02-12-07 05:51 PM - Post#1094750    
    In response to inferno 55

I noticed when I installed my new springs that if I tighted my ball joints up the nut would be too far above the cotter key hole? Am I missing something?

Jeffrey
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Snake 
Senior Member
Posts: 710
Snake
Loc: Danville, CA
Reg: 06-08-05
02-12-07 05:57 PM - Post#1094759    
    In response to dukeofbluz

Duke, same here.

I thought the castle nuts w/ cotter pins (ball joints, tie rod ends) were specifically used at points where you don't want to torque the nut very much? What am I missing?

Jake
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Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 25694

Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
02-12-07 06:12 PM - Post#1094774    
    In response to Snake

You DO want full torque on the ball joint and tie rod pins. It should be obvious they are not something you want to come loose.

On the other hand, you don't want to overtorque them, the tapered pins are hard enough to get apart without overtorquing.

Likewise, since the ball joint and tie rod nuts are not something you want to come off the car even if they are slightly loose, the cotter pins take care of that.

If the cotter pin hole is not lining up with the slot in the castellated nut, probably the problem is the wrong nut. Most of these nuts are availabe in half height and full height. Most any auto supply has a good selection of castellated nuts.

If a full height nut does not do it, then the hole is probably misdrilled (can you say Asian made?).

As a last resort, put a hardened washer under the nut.

This is definitely something you want to get right.

 
Winmon 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2496
Winmon
Age: 50
Loc: Sequim, Wa.
Reg: 10-01-03
02-12-07 06:31 PM - Post#1094791    
    In response to Rick_L

Thanks guys! Rick, that is good info.....
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inferno 55 
"11th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1649
inferno 55
Age: 75
Loc: Rogers, Arkansas
Reg: 11-10-02
02-12-07 07:41 PM - Post#1094879    
    In response to Winmon

When you buy a kit, they should have the different castle nuts like Rick says. If they don't line up with the hole there is something wrong.Never back off, but tighten a little to align. If you look close you can see the different thickness nuts in photo.

Bob

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Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 25694

Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
02-12-07 08:02 PM - Post#1094908    
    In response to Winmon

To follow up a bit on the torque specs and 33vicky's last comment...

The lower ball joint is 9/16-18 thread, the upper is 1/2-20, and the tie rod end is 7/16-20.

We see recommendations in this thread of 45 ft-lb and 70 ft-lb for the ball joints, and 29-43 up to 60 ft-lb for the tie rods.

I couldn't find any torque spec's for ball joints or tie rods in the shop manual, assembly manual, or a later year shop manual.

A grade 8 1/2" bolt would be recommended to be torqued to 80 ft-lb, and a 9/16" bolt to somewhat more than that. And a grade 8 7/16" bolt would be recommended to be 65 ft-lb.

I would tighten the ball joints to 60-70 ft-lb, and tighten more until the cotter pin hole lines up in the castle nut. For the tie rods, I'd go to 40-45 ft-lb, and tighten additionally until the cotter pin hole aligns with the castle nut. So, all of the recommendations here are in the same ball park. Again, you don't want to get carried away, but you want them secure. And as 33vicky said you don't want to torque and back off, better to torque to a slightly low value and then add some.

 
Winmon 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2496
Winmon
Age: 50
Loc: Sequim, Wa.
Reg: 10-01-03
02-13-07 06:37 PM - Post#1095689    
    In response to Rick_L

Thanks for the info!
Bagged '62 Bel Air

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