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 Page 1 of 3 123
Username Post: The Dead Horse: V8 Swapping        (Topic#149142)
Bigcheese327 
Senior Member
Posts: 340

Loc: Bay City/Caro, MI
Reg: 09-23-03
01-17-07 07:57 PM - Post#1074097    

Sorry to clutter the board with what I'm sure is the umpteenth million post on this topic, but searching wasn't getting me anywhere. If someone would like to provide a link that would be perfect and then fresher stuff can take this place.

If someone wants to give a quick rundown of the pertinent points, even better. I see there's already a sticky about later model 235s, perhaps a V8 post is in order too.

Here's what I (think) I know along with the points I'm particularly unclear about:

1) Front suspension is the same or related to the C1 Corvette, correct?

1a) Therefore a set of V8 motormounts should work with that suspension, obviating the need to use the Mustang II unit.

1b) Therefore Rams Horn exhaust manifolds should work if mounting a smallblock because these were OE on the C1.

1c) Therefore there will not be any interference with the stock bell-crank steering setup. (I'm probably dreaming on that last one.)

2) Rear axle is closed drive and will therefore need to be modified or replaced. The '48-'54 pickup axle can be modified with a '55-'64 truck center section to eliminate the torque tube. Is a similar operation possible with the passenger car axle?

2a) Can Eaton Spring or someone make a set of leaves capable of taking the rear axle torque or are traction devices pretty much a necessity with the change to open drive?

2b) If modification of the OE axle is impossible, is the '68-'74 Nova or '67-'69 Camaro axle still the best swap?

2c) What changes to springs or perches are necessary?

3) Assuming the V8 is side-mounted a transmission mount will be necessary, correct? I really doubt a TH-350, Muncie, etc will bolt to the OE 3-speed or Powerglide mounts, they were probably bellhousing mounted like the tri-five gearboxes.

3a) Who makes one? Will I have to fabricate/modify something? Is there a junkyard swap possible?

4) 12V conversion will be necessary because all Chevrolet V8s use a 12V starter, but that's another relevant post.

5) Is an aftermarket radiator a necessity or by some miracle do the outlets line up and the OE unit is up to the task of cooling a mild V8? Does it have to be relocated or will something bolted in the stock position clear a mechanical fan?

6) Assuming the swap is being made from 3-speed to 4-speed how is clutch actuation best accomplished if one wants to retain the floor pedals?

7) What modifications must be made to the firewall?

7a) The heater?

I am interested in doing the least invasive V8 swap possible on a '54 Chevrolet but would be interested in anything relevant to all of the passenger cars '49 to '54.

Thanks,
Dave

1968 Camaro convertible. L79/M21.
One-of-none "Hurst Edition"
1975 Ford Green Glow Metallic
Black over-the-door SS stripe
Black top, Ivy Gold Deluxe interior


 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13815
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
01-17-07 09:03 PM - Post#1074148    
    In response to Bigcheese327

Boy that is a lot of questions.
I can answer a few of them.
The '49-'54 Chevy front suspension is basically the same as the '53-'62 Corvettes, but that doesn't necessarily mean the Ram's horn manifolds will work--but someone here should know the answer to that question.

The 235 is actually a heavier engine than a 327, so weight is not the problem.

The problem is that the H.P. & Torque of a V-8 will easily screw-up the stock 3-speed, rear-end and rear springs.

So if you go that route, you'll have to replace the entire drivetrain. And I believe at that point the firewall becomes somewhat of a problem--but I'm not sure--I haven't done this swap. I know from reading other's posts that there are several ways around the problem.

The emergency brake will have to be removed if you go to a V-8.

You'll have to come up with a trans. mount, but several companies make ones which will fit. As far as making one, sure you can make one, if you have the skills and a good mind.

12V conversion is the best thing if you are going to a V-8.

The stock radiator will cool a V-8. But if you are going for Hi Performance, (which will generate more heat) you will need to have the stock rad. reworked in some way.

Heater--use a 12V heater motor or else use a voltage reducer on the stock 6V heater motor.

Several companies make pedal conversion kits to put swing pedals on a '54. Or you could cobble your own junkyard special up. Somebody here has done it with junkyard parts before I'm sure.

Here's a thought--if you are indeed going to put a preformance engine in your '54 you really, really should have power disk brakes. The stock brakes WILL stop your car, but if you are buzzing along at 90 and suddenly have to stop, the stock brakes leave a lot to be desired. There was a really nice '56 Pontiac on ebay awhile back which the owner restored cosmetically and then stuffed a nice big engine and auto trans in it. Then he took it out and ran into something and totalled it because he hadn't done anything to the brakes, and got into a situation in which his stock brakes couldn't stop him in time.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
DCMatt 
Senior Member
Posts: 914
DCMatt
Loc: Washington, DC USA
Reg: 07-11-02
01-18-07 08:08 AM - Post#1074343    
    In response to Bigcheese327

I agree, that is a load of questions!

I think the answer to all of them is:

Keep the 6.

DCMatt

'48 Fleetmaster Town Sedan '52 Styleline Deluxe Station wagon


 
rrausch 
"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13815
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
01-18-07 09:39 AM - Post#1074399    
    In response to DCMatt

That's what I'm doing! Less work = more fun.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
patgizz 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 8589
patgizz
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Reg: 01-30-00
01-18-07 07:46 PM - Post#1074913    
    In response to DCMatt

  • DCMatt Said:
I agree, that is a load of questions!

I think the answer to all of them is:

Keep the 6.

DCMatt




i thought that too until i went to my v8 and put the hurt on my dad's corvette



 
Happy Belair 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1228

Loc: Central Oklahoma
Reg: 10-29-06
01-18-07 09:35 PM - Post#1074973    
    In response to patgizz

Regarding firewall work.
Yes you Will
The two struts that extend out from the fire wall on either side of the engine will have to be extensively cut back.
In addition you WILL have to remove the emergency brake set up and go to some other type of ebrake.
The Ram horm ezhaust WILL interfer with the stock steering set up.
Sanderson makes a set up especially for a small block into this body stype with stock steering.
Some of the earlier Powerglides will still bolt up to the trans mount if you reverse the mounting block on the frame member.
The radiator will cool the block ok biut your really better to have th stock radiator recored from a three to a four.
The inlate holes will work fine.
You will have to convert to `12 volt.
These seem to be your main stumbling blocks so I hope this helps some.

54 Belair 1067DTX, Roman red 327 Turbo350
54 Belair Hardtop, just bod off frame,work in progress
54 210 Station wagon Father in laws pass me down


 
51ChevySled 
Senior Member
Posts: 1005
51ChevySled
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 05-17-05
01-19-07 08:56 AM - Post#1075163    
    In response to Happy Belair

I've done this swap using stock suspension and steering as well as a Fatman Mustang II and in both cases, steering clearance is an issue. The main thing I suggest is to mock up your engine with the exhaust manifolds or headers bolted up. This way you can place your mounts where you want 'em to make everything clear.

For the tranny mount, I highly suggest making your own. If you put the engine mounts where you want 'em, you'll have to tailor the tranny mount to match. Using pre-made mounts is ok, but from what I've experienced and heard from other Chevytalkers and HAMBers, they almost always need to be modified.

Here's what I came up with for a tranny mount for my TH350: Custom Transmission Mount and what others here have done: More Custom Crossmembers

I'll try to throw in my .02 to your questions in this thread, but PM me if you need.

Bryan

Just lurking...

Villains Car Club
Roseville, CA.
www.villainscc.com


 
51ChevySled 
Senior Member
Posts: 1005
51ChevySled
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 05-17-05
01-19-07 12:21 PM - Post#1075294    
    In response to 51ChevySled

Couple more thoughts...for the rear-end swap, the Mopar universal spring perches from Summit work great and are only $12. If you search here for 'em, you can get the part #.

The '70-81 Camaro gas pedal works well. Make sure to get the mounting bracket for the pedal, the cable throttle linkage, and the linkage bracket that attaches to the carb. If you want a hanging brake-pedal, the same year Camaro one works well, but will need a little modification. This is a good setup if you're planning on running a remote MC. I used the Walton firewall mount MC and hanging pedal...pricey, but it performs very well.

Bryan



Just lurking...

Villains Car Club
Roseville, CA.
www.villainscc.com


 
Bigcheese327 
Senior Member
Posts: 340

Loc: Bay City/Caro, MI
Reg: 09-23-03
01-19-07 12:28 PM - Post#1075297    
    In response to 51ChevySled

Thanks for all the replies so far, they're mostly helpful. On the pedal issue. I really like the floor pedal look and would like to retain them if it's at all possible. I'd also like to avoid running headers. I have several pair of Rams Horns, including a pair of '66 Impala angled dump types. I could be persuaded to seek out a different set of manifolds if they would work better, I just prefer the way they look and seal. To me, there's little that beats the look of a paint detailed SBC with script valvecovers, an oil bath aircleaner and smoothed out Rams Horns.

-Dave

1968 Camaro convertible. L79/M21.
One-of-none "Hurst Edition"
1975 Ford Green Glow Metallic
Black over-the-door SS stripe
Black top, Ivy Gold Deluxe interior


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27439
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
01-19-07 01:04 PM - Post#1075321    
    In response to Bigcheese327

  • Bigcheese327 Said:
On the pedal issue. I really like the floor pedal look and would like to retain them if it's at all possible.



You can keep the stock pedals. There is a bracket which keeps your stock MC and mounts a dual MC behind it. The guts are removed from the stock MC and a rod passes through it to operate the new one.

The stock clutch linkage will work with an engine swap. If you can find the right bellhousing the fork will point down at an angle just like stock. If you get one where the fork points straight out, you can make an offset link to connect it with the pedal.

Ray



Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27439
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
01-19-07 02:56 PM - Post#1075395    
    In response to Bigcheese327

  • Bigcheese327 Said:

1) Front suspension is the same or related to the C1 Corvette, correct?
Yes, very similar.

1a) Therefore a set of V8 motormounts should work with that suspension, obviating the need to use the Mustang II unit.
Nope, stock C1 V-8 mounts are unlike anything else ever used on a Chevy. If you haven't seen one, there is a kind of saddle that runs across the front of the engine and is sandwiched between the water pump and the block. The ends of that sit on brackets attached to the frame. The only other mount which is even close is the Hurst aftermarket unit.

1b) Therefore Rams Horn exhaust manifolds should work if mounting a smallblock because these were OE on the C1.
Nope, the position of the engine relative to the steering box is different. Stock 55-56 manifolds (these are not rams horns) will clear, and I have heard of success with some of the later "under-the-plugs" type manifolds, but I don't have any specific details about which ones.

1c) Therefore there will not be any interference with the stock bell-crank steering setup. (I'm probably dreaming on that last one.)
Normally there are no problems clearing the linkage. It's the box you need to worry about

2) Rear axle is closed drive and will therefore need to be modified or replaced. The '48-'54 pickup axle can be modified with a '55-'64 truck center section to eliminate the torque tube. Is a similar operation possible with the passenger car axle?
Yes, but you don't want to do it. A 53-55 Vette center section will bolt into the housing, assuming you can find one. You will still have to deal with the swivels on the stock spring mounts (take a look, if you haven't already).

2a) Can Eaton Spring or someone make a set of leaves capable of taking the rear axle torque or are traction devices pretty much a necessity with the change to open drive?
You can get springs that will handle the torque, but properly set-up traction bars would probably be ride-friendlier if you have any serious amount of engine output.

2b) If modification of the OE axle is impossible, is the '68-'74 Nova or '67-'69 Camaro axle still the best swap?
2nd gen Camaro is correct for perch spacing. 1st gen is correct for overall width. A 55-57 axle is correct for both, but these are getting scarce. Cheaper and easier to find than any of these is one from a 4WD S-10 truck (2WD is too narrow). You will have to move the perches on this one.

2c) What changes to springs or perches are necessary?
None on the perches if you get a 2nd gen Camaro or equivalent Nova axle. Stock springs won't handle anything more than a very mild engine or gentle driving. They are also rather flexible laterally too.

3) Assuming the V8 is side-mounted a transmission mount will be necessary, correct? I really doubt a TH-350, Muncie, etc will bolt to the OE 3-speed or Powerglide mounts, they were probably bellhousing mounted like the tri-five gearboxes.
These cars all had a rear transmission mount. It will probably be too far forward for most modern transmissions, but you can get an aftermarket replacement crossmember or modify the stock one.

3a) Who makes one? Will I have to fabricate/modify something? Is there a junkyard swap possible?
Look at Chassis Engineering and Walton. I believe there are also other vendors. No junkyard parts that I am aware of.

4) 12V conversion will be necessary because all Chevrolet V8s use a 12V starter, but that's another relevant post.
Yep, no easy way around that one. You could probably have a rebuilder make you a custom 6V starter, but V-8s with any kind of compression just don't start well on 6 volts in cold weather. That's why GM went to 12V on their V-8s in 1953 and everyone else followed not long afterward.

5) Is an aftermarket radiator a necessity or by some miracle do the outlets line up and the OE unit is up to the task of cooling a mild V8? Does it have to be relocated or will something bolted in the stock position clear a mechanical fan?
I have used the stock radiator on my swaps without any heating problems. The stock location will easily clear the fan on a short water pump.

6) Assuming the swap is being made from 3-speed to 4-speed how is clutch actuation best accomplished if one wants to retain the floor pedals?
See my earlier post from today.

7) What modifications must be made to the firewall?
The two vertical ribs will have to go and the handbrake has to be relocated to the other side of the steering column (or the floor).

7a) The heater?
The Deluxe (fresh air) heater will have to go. The economy heater is no problem.

I am interested in doing the least invasive V8 swap possible on a '54 Chevrolet but would be interested in anything relevant to all of the passenger cars '49 to '54.

Thanks,
Dave




Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
51ChevySled 
Senior Member
Posts: 1005
51ChevySled
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 05-17-05
01-19-07 05:34 PM - Post#1075519    
    In response to raycow

Excellent response Raycow.

Bryan

Just lurking...

Villains Car Club
Roseville, CA.
www.villainscc.com


 
Bigcheese327 
Senior Member
Posts: 340

Loc: Bay City/Caro, MI
Reg: 09-23-03
01-21-07 04:45 PM - Post#1076714    
    In response to 51ChevySled

Thank you very much, Raycrow! That's exactly the kind of response I was hoping for. Maybe this one should be stickied.

-Dave

1968 Camaro convertible. L79/M21.
One-of-none "Hurst Edition"
1975 Ford Green Glow Metallic
Black over-the-door SS stripe
Black top, Ivy Gold Deluxe interior


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27439
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
01-22-07 12:20 AM - Post#1077037    
    In response to Bigcheese327

You are very welcome. This is mostly just stuff I learned in the course of doing a few swaps. I'm glad if it helps any.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
DZAUTO 
Senior Member
Posts: 8486

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
01-22-07 06:30 AM - Post#1077096    
    In response to raycow

With all the swap parts/brackets available now, and with the amount of people (including me) who have done V8 swaps in 49-54 cars, there are multiple ways to go. I did the first V8 swap in my 51 back in 67 or 68 and the setup is still doing fine. This was done back when Hurst made many different engine mounts for many different cars. They have since divested their motor mount line and those mounts are now sold by Speedway.
The 350 in my 51 has the Hurst mounts up front and I have a 55-57 type bell housing that uses mounts on each side of the bell housing. Works fine. I use the STOCK 51 clutch linkage, but have lengthened it with two links of chain. I even have the stock 51 throwout bearing fork in the 57 bell housing.
As mentioned, heater core box for the fresh air heater for 49-52 cars is in the way of a V8, but it is a different setup in 53-4 and should be fine as is.
Yep, gotta change over to 12 volts. If you keep a generator, you can use the same wiring, but, if you change to an alternator (I recommend it), some wiring changes will be necessary. All light bulbe must be swapped, but dropping resistors can be used for accessories/gas gauge. The 54-earlier cars were NOT designed for a V8 engine, so no matter which way you go for a swap, there will be a certain amount of fabrication/modification required.






 
burbdude 
Member
Posts: 476

Reg: 04-08-06
02-13-07 10:50 AM - Post#1095315    
    In response to DZAUTO

use rack&pinion steering and exhaust wont be a issue.

http://community.webshots.com/user/55dude


 
OLD CAR 
Senior Member
Posts: 626

Loc: OREGON
Reg: 05-29-01
02-14-07 11:29 AM - Post#1096169    
    In response to Bigcheese327

HI, KEEP THE 235 THE CHEVY 6 WITH DUAL EXHAUST HAS A UNIQUE SOUND THAT NO OTHER CAR DOES, ITS LIKE A HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTERCYCLE A SOUND LIKE NO OTHER.



 
motorhed327 
Senior Member
Posts: 748
motorhed327
Loc: Springfield, MO.
Reg: 12-14-03
02-15-07 08:03 PM - Post#1097457    
    In response to OLD CAR

A split six does sound great, I love the way my '54 sounds, and they are great motors. But it depends on what you want to get out of the car. I have a 250 and a 292 sitting in the garage, but I am probably going with a V8 in my '53. It will be about the same amount of work either way, and the V8 will be a less expensive motor to build and as everyone knows parts are more common should you have trouble on the road. Chassis engineering's front suspension is minimally invasive in the fact that it is a bolt in, and gives motor mounts, rack and pinion, discs, and lowers the frontend!

Motorhed327
Springfield,MO.


 
Royer 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 11411

Loc: Bloomfield Hills, Michiga...
Reg: 09-25-01
02-16-07 07:29 AM - Post#1097703    
    In response to motorhed327

Anyone running an old - or even a newer "offbeat" vehicle should keep a few spares with them to minimize the liklihood of problems on the road. I'm speaking of things like a waterpump, points and condensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc. as applicable.

Presuming that one has checked the vehicle over thoroughly ahead of time, major internal problems are extremely unlikely - even on high-mileage vehicles.

That said, sourcing parts for a Chevy six is really not much more difficult than for a small block V8. Possibly I'm luckier than most, but at age 62 I've never been stranded where I couldn't get my vehicle repaired either by myself or with locally available help - even with things as rare as a three-cylinder, two stroke Saab. My closest call was when the ball bearings dropped out of the steering box on a forward control Ford van, but even then I was able to find a junk yard with a suitable donor vehicle.

Royer



 
53belair 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2376
53belair
Age: 62
Loc: Ellerslie, Georgia
Reg: 03-25-07
03-25-07 05:23 PM - Post#1128082    
    In response to Royer

If a newbie can chime in I might have some info.

I have found that RB Obsolete has a number of "items" that helped me with a 350 swap into my 53 belair. Fatman also has a good tech article regarding the swap using a 350 TH trans. You didn't mention (or I didn't see it) if your car is a powerglide or standard. If it is a PG, RB Obsolete has a plate that bolts to the original K member and allows for a stock 350 trans. mount to be used. It helps to drill out the rivets and replace them with bolts to facilitate getting at that trans. later on. I'm pretty sure that the crossmember will need to be replaced with a after market (or fabricated unit) if you car is a standard shift. RB's offers a spring, mount, and perch kit for putting a late model rearend under your car, and it centers the wheel in the opening. Posies does as well, and is probably the best product.

I used a fatman mustang II front end, and their tubular motor mounts. I only had to use two U joints since I was able to route the double D shaft through the mount (it arches up kinda like a upside down U) and they strengthen the frame as well. You will need a short water pump and I had to use the smaller 6 3/4 inch (instead of the 8 inch) harmonic damper to have some clearance up front.

Years ago JC Whitney offered a adapter to hook a V8 up to the original trans. but it was usually just a short while before the trans died. If you decide to go that route, you might find one on ebay or luck into one at a swap meet.

1953 Belair Sport Coupe,350/350/Fatman/Dako ta Digital/American Shifter/Southern Air/Ciadella Interiors
1967 Chevelle 396 Muncie
2010 Camaro II-SS
2011 Camaro Pace Car
2012 Tahoe


 
peashootr 
Member
Posts: 3

Reg: 11-18-07
11-18-07 01:34 PM - Post#1298789    
    In response to Bigcheese327

I have a 1952 styleline deluxe.I swapped the original 6 banger w/ standard trans for an 85 Camaro engine,700r4 tranny and rearend.Most parts ,like engine mounts , exhaust adapters and such I made myself but had to have a drive shaft made.I was even able to make a transmission mounting adapter.I kept the radiator and installed a tranny cooler in front.The biggest problem I had was with the rearend. I had to strip the camaro rearend and weld the original spring and shock brackets to it. later I found out I measured the axle wrong( my first swap of anything)and have to use an 86 cutlass with some mods.The original shifter works well but adjusting the shift cable is a pain with a new carb.I bought a disc brake kit and added the power brake w/boost to the fire wall.I converted to 12v with a new wiring harness and replaced all the bulbs. The struts on the fire wall had to be cut away for clearance. I used a distributer out of a 70 model chevy truck. Hope something in here helps.



 
aceuh 
Contributor
Posts: 174
aceuh
Age: 46
Loc: La Fayette GA
Reg: 09-25-07
08-20-08 05:35 PM - Post#1504020    
    In response to Bigcheese327

Anyone have clearance issues running an HEI distributor with a V8 swap?



 
51ChevySled 
Senior Member
Posts: 1005
51ChevySled
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 05-17-05
08-21-08 10:02 AM - Post#1504506    
    In response to aceuh

Not here...used HEI in 4 different Chevy's without problems. In my '51, my bellhousing almost touches the firewall and there's still plenty of room for the dizzy.

Bryan

Just lurking...

Villains Car Club
Roseville, CA.
www.villainscc.com


 
dixiedew 
Lurker
Posts: 17

Loc: Georgia
Reg: 10-16-08
11-01-08 09:13 AM - Post#1554629    
    In response to 51ChevySled

Great thread! I have 51 Fleetline that I'm about to install a crate 350 and 700R4, the front has been clipped with a cross torsion bar Aspen/Volare with the disc brakes,

it has a tilt column with the Mopar steering sector, the vintage Aire AC/heat is insalled and all guages are aftermarket VDO's, the rear is also Mopar 8 3/4 on leaf springs, the motor has the GM alt/PS pump/AC compressor and is long water pump style, I have an aluminum radiator and plan to run the stock GM log exhaust manifolds, and a 16" Locar floor mount shifter.






 
Bob_Hayden 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6809
Bob_Hayden
Age: 71
Loc: Indianapolis, In. USA
Reg: 07-17-01
11-01-08 02:58 PM - Post#1554833    
    In response to dixiedew

Nice!!!!

Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums

2014 Silverado Double cab (BLUE)


 
ralph47 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2335
ralph47
Age: 68
Loc: new franklin, ohio
Reg: 10-28-08
11-02-08 09:25 PM - Post#1555691    
    In response to Bob_Hayden

i asked this in another forum..when pulling the motor and trans on these to make the change..do you need to pull the hood? if so..how did you deal with the springs?


54 Chevy Handyman Wagon
48 Chevy Pick Up
39 Chevy Coupe
62 Olds F85 Cutlass Convertible

http://s370.photobucket.com/albums/oo148/ralph47_ p...


 
Bob_Hayden 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6809
Bob_Hayden
Age: 71
Loc: Indianapolis, In. USA
Reg: 07-17-01
11-02-08 09:40 PM - Post#1555701    
    In response to ralph47

No, you don't have to but it is much simpler if you do. You have to take the springs off to remove the hood. Go here for info on taking the springs off.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/miscellaneous...

Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums

2014 Silverado Double cab (BLUE)


Edited by Bob_Hayden on 11-02-08 09:43 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
ralph47 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2335
ralph47
Age: 68
Loc: new franklin, ohio
Reg: 10-28-08
11-03-08 05:30 AM - Post#1555772    
    In response to Bob_Hayden

Thanks guys..have to start taking the front end apart soon...changing crossmember too. it looks like using the tool requires pretty much that the fenders be removed too...so..since i am putting the mustang in at the same time..should get it all out of the way anyway.

54 Chevy Handyman Wagon
48 Chevy Pick Up
39 Chevy Coupe
62 Olds F85 Cutlass Convertible

http://s370.photobucket.com/albums/oo148/ralph47_ p...


 
Bob_Hayden 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6809
Bob_Hayden
Age: 71
Loc: Indianapolis, In. USA
Reg: 07-17-01
11-03-08 06:29 AM - Post#1555799    
    In response to ralph47

You can use the hood spring tool with the fenders on.

Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums

2014 Silverado Double cab (BLUE)


 
gorilla1 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 49

Reg: 10-18-08
11-11-08 07:32 PM - Post#1562051    
    In response to Bob_Hayden

I put a 350/350 in my '54 BelAir - used a plate bolted to the original crossmember for the trans - Hurst mount for the engine. A mid-late 80's Chevy pickup drivers side ram horn works if you trim a bit of the (I think its a body ) mount below it. Exits to the rear. Also, a '64/65 Chevelle rear is perfect - allows 15 x 8 ralleys to fit easily. Those were easy - you'll be seeing HELP posts from me about the "little stuff" thats driving me carzy.



 
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