 grumpyvette
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 15668
Age: 65
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
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07-05-06 06:06 AM - Post#963939
http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U077.pdf
http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U013-U020.pdf
http://www.sigmasystems.com/Techdoc/Tech_Docs/SigmaPowerPlugs.htm
http://leviton.com/pdfs/d-503/d-503T.pdf (see page 21)
http://www.danielwoodhead.com/pdf/139-172/163.pdf
http://techpubs.sgi.com/library/tpl/cgi-...i_html/apb.html
btw this may help, most garages need a welder or a lift, sooner or later so youll more than likely need a 220 volt outlet (30-100amp)
this wiring stuffs not hard to do, but use the correct gauge wire and the correct plugs and sockets for the application and ID strongly suggest useing a MINIMUM of 10ga wire for 110volt and 3/4" metalic conduit (use the correct single breaker rating for the application on the 110 volt)
110 v outlet end
black/power to the gold screw
white/neutral to the silver screw
green/ground to the green screw
110v at the box
black/power to breaker
white/ neutral to neutral bar
green/ ground to ground bar
and 4 GA on the high amp 230 volt applications,like WELDERS, little 230volt stuff like compressors and lifts get along fine with (4) 10 ga wires (use the correct dual breaker rating for the application on the 220 volt)
220v at the outlet
red feed to one hot
black feed to one hot
green to ground on plug
(optional but HIGHLY RECOMENDED)
second green to the conduit ground screw
220v at the box
red to one side of DUAL breaker
black to one side of DUAL breaker
green/ ground to ground bar
optional green/ ground to ground bar
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robocorp
Senior Member
Posts: 526
Reg: 05-22-05
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Re: Links for wiring
12-06-06 09:41 AM - Post#963940
In response to grumpyvette
Are you citing actual codes when you advise 10ga wire for 120V branch circuits and 4ga wire for 240V circuits?
Really using 10ga wire for 120V branch circuits is almost certainly uncalled for, definately more expensive, and much more difficult to work with than 12ga or 14ga. Ten gauge wire is very very stiff, can cause excessive strain on switch and receptacle terminals and may require the use of larger outlet boxes to keep box fill within safe limits. All lighting circuits and most power outlets need not be wired with heavier than 14ga cable. Motor loads could be wired with 12ga but in most cases will be fine wired with 14ga as long as the cable run does not exceed fifty feet in which case 12ga cable may be called for. On outlets where both outlets in a duplex receptacle will feed higher loads,(6 amps or more each) that may run simultaneously a split duplex recepatacle fed with two separate 15 amp circuits or two separate 15 amp duplex receptacle circuits are a good idea.
220V loads on 15 amp circuit breakers typically only require 14ga cable. A 20 amp circuit breaker needs 12ga cable, 30 amps = 10ga, 40 amps = 8ga, 60 amps = 4ga and so on. 
When planning wiring anticipate circuit loading. Check rated amperage/wattage of motors and appliances and calculate loads. To turn watts into amps divide by supply voltage. I don't load circuits beyond %80 of the circuit breakers rating. So no more than about 12 amps to a 15 amp circuit. If planning flourescent lighting calculate total combined wattage of the tubes and add 20% for ballasts then convert to amps by dividing by 120V. Doing things this way will be safe, simple, and trouble free if installed professionally.
I'm not saying you can't use 10ga in place of 14ga wire but your inspector won't be any more impressed with the job, you will spend more money doing it, you may break terminals on fixtures when trying to manipulate the wiring and device into the box, costing you more money, and if you miss something like exceeding box fill you won't pass inspection at all and you will have to redo your wiring to suit the inspector. If in doubt at all, call an electrician.
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