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 Page 3 of 5 « First<2345
Username Post: building a 383, things to think about        (Topic#131229)
mnblaster 
Member
Posts: 36

Reg: 04-26-04
10-10-07 07:55 PM - Post#1271696    
    In response to grumpyvette

GV, how does this cam that you recommended compare to the one you said you would use if you did it all over again?



 




grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
10-12-07 05:16 PM - Post#1272852    
    In response to mnblaster

your trying to compare apples too oranges, my cam sellection NEEDED too be differant because , the goals as to the engine combos requirements differ, Ive never intended from day one too run my combo seriously without the 200-250 hp nitrous system(depends on the jets installed)
Ive never intended too maximize the N/A hp, but too sellect cams and heads, ETC, for that nitrous, and I value a nearly stock idle sound (I don,t have but wish I had)
I never intended to have nor do I want a race car, what I want is a daily driver combo in my C4 that will SURPRISE and HUMBLE a z06, eat his lunch, in a quick accelleration contest

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 10-12-07 05:39 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
StanC. 
Senior Member
Posts: 85

Loc: Mesa, AZ
Reg: 06-06-07
10-19-07 09:58 PM - Post#1277985    
    In response to mylesdw

The distance between the rod pin centerline and the main centerline is great. When the 400 cast crank was designed one thought for those large mains was to stiffen the crank by having the circles overlap slightly. If you really gotta roll the dice consider a forged core that passes magnaflux testing. If the counter weights hit the block it wouldn't be worth the cost to get outa the spot with mallory metal slugs after the counter weights were turned down.

'64 K-20 rock crawler, SB 409, ZZ4 roller, 4-wheel power disk brakes, power steering, cruz control.
'83 Impala War Wagon, SB 383, LT-1 roller,


 
Datsunz8 
Newbie
Posts: 20

Reg: 09-26-07
10-25-07 07:39 PM - Post#1281954    
    In response to grumpyvette

Grumpy,

Finished the 385 sbc and I learned a few things along the way. Beware of Comp Cams cast Hyd. roller cams.

When we tore into the motor we found the lobes on the roller cam to be shot, severe pitting and partial lobe wiping...cheap junk I guess!

I only had maybe 10k miles on her. Stabbed a Crtane 119651 with 1.60 roller rockers in her. Just finished the base tune on her today and I really like the set up/motor.

I am keeping the total timing at 32 degree's with an 11 to 1 compression ratio and 93 octane I am playing it safe.

Thanks for your help/idea's!



 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
10-26-07 06:05 AM - Post#1282133    
    In response to Datsunz8

yeah! BUT how are you/whats your driving impressions with the new set-up???????
BTW I bet your impressed with the differance in QUALITY on the CRANE BILLET vs the old comp cams cast cam core, thats why Ive always suggested the billet roller cam cores

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 10-26-07 06:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Datsunz8 
Newbie
Posts: 20

Reg: 09-26-07
10-29-07 06:46 AM - Post#1284040    
    In response to grumpyvette

Grumpy,

I got a chance to drive the hell out the car over the last week. Probably 500-700 miles and even a trip to the track.

It makes no vacuum like my other cam which is no biggie as I run a vacuum pump for the brakes etc.. The drivability was ok, not great but I have some tuning issues to work out still.

I ran it at the track yesterday, got 4 passes in and obviously the motor is a little tight still and I short shifted a few times. It ran 11.02, 11.03, 11.14 and 11.30 at 119 to 121 mph. Thats a little slower than my old set up but in all fairness I will need to give it some more seat time to loosen up and I will run it harder next time out.

I left the bottle off as I didn't want to be too hard on her this early and I don't need to get tech'd off the track.



 
leons57belair 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 78

Age: 44
Loc: Moorpark CA
Reg: 09-07-07
01-02-08 10:15 PM - Post#1333475    
    In response to Datsunz8

I'm new to Chevy and I see that most people build 383's with the 3.75 crank. My question is, is it possible to install a 3.875 crank in a 350 block or do you need one of the aftermarket blocks with the taller decks? And if it is possible, A: Why don't more people use this crank? and B: Is there anything more needed to set up this crank over the 3.75 one?
Thanks,
Leon

Black 57 Chevy Belair 2 door Sport Coupe. 350 engine, edelbrock performer rpm intake, 600 cfm edelbrock carb, K&N filter. Th350 trans.


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
01-03-08 07:07 AM - Post#1333606    
    In response to leons57belair

theres no problem building a 396 SHORT BLOCK vs the 383 by installing the slightly longer stroke crank, EXCEPT that the clearancing work,requires careful grinding as its possiable to get into the water jackets on some blocks if you get careless, the choice of connecting rods, oil pan, and cam too rod clearance takes more time and thought due to the tighter clearances and longer stroke and requirement to grind the block slightly more and the cam to rod clearance is where many guys get into problems
the 383 is more popular mostly because its slightly easier to build, takes less planing and THE COMPONENTS are GENERALLY CHEAPER AND EASIER TO FIND.
you will have a slight advantage with the larger displacement when your done, but youll find after shopping those few extra cubic inches raise the component prices a good deal and that if your useing 6" connecting rods that the piston pin in the oil ring is a P.I.T.A. compared to 5.7" or 5.875" rods
you might find these of interest

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=...

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article085/A -P...

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article031/A -P...

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article016/A 16...

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article014/A 14...



IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 01-03-08 09:13 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
leons57belair 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 78

Age: 44
Loc: Moorpark CA
Reg: 09-07-07
01-03-08 10:36 PM - Post#1334408    
    In response to grumpyvette

Thanks Grumpy, that was some great info.

Black 57 Chevy Belair 2 door Sport Coupe. 350 engine, edelbrock performer rpm intake, 600 cfm edelbrock carb, K&N filter. Th350 trans.


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
01-06-08 06:12 PM - Post#1336640    
    In response to leons57belair

I was asked "whats your current engine, combo,"

BTW this info and software a good tool, but understand theres not a single original chevy part in my engine and Im constantly changing components (part of the HOBBY/RESEARCH)and that just because this combo fits my needs doesn,t mean its going to be ideal in your car!
THE combo I choose was NOT designed to maximize N/A hp, but too maximize BOTH the driveability when I was off the giggle gas and to get a reasonable boost once the nitrous was used, with durrability and trouble free opperation as a main concern.

http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm

Ive got that software ,at first, its a P.I.T.A. to fill in all the necessary requested data "CORRECTLY" and fill the necessary data banks the basic program needs , but the more you use it the easier it becomes to use as it holds previous data in memory,but its an excellent program that gives good advice and reasonably dependable answers, unlike some of the cheaper
software.
that and YEARS OF experiance and testing assist in finding a decent combo
keep in mind the rpm band your car REALLY spends MOST of its time in, most guys seem mezmerized and glued to the peak power results, it does little or no good to make huge peak power numbers at an rpm that youll spend only fractions of seconds at durring occasional race use vs the rpm band where your car spends 99% of its time, I could easily have built a killer race combo with huge peah hp numbers but I wanted something that was reasonably easy to drive on the street and still be fast on the track on the rare occasions I get there. I drive My corvette and its NOT a trailer queen!

my comb changes almost every month as I play with it, but heres My current 383 combo, (which Im currently refreshing for a spare)I built the engine SPECIFICALLY to run nitrious , but still be marginally easy to drive on the street, Its certainly NOT a race car but its fast enought to be marginally scary at times

splayed 4 bolt block,4.030 bore ARP studs
.020 copper head gaskets
6" cat 7/16" rod bolt (H) connecting rods
FORGED PISTONS 2016 alloy
SCAT 3.75" stroke FORGED internally ballanced ,4340 crank
CRANE 119661 roller cam & kit (better springs added)
air pump eliminator
jackson gear cam drive
smaller crank pullie
BBK 58mm throttle body
ERSON 1.6:1 BILLET roller rockers
gapless rings
TRICKFLOW twisted wedge heads (ported extensively)
STEALTH RAM(dirrect strait shot from back of valve to plenum) (ported and modified extensively)plus adjustable fuel pressure regulator
SFI 168 tooth flex plate
10 qt custom oil pan/high volume oil pump
windage screen/crank scraper /oil cooler
3000 rpm stall converter
36 LB injectors (soon to be 42 lb)
hooker 1 3/4" headers, 3" exhaust
HOLLEY http://www.holley.com/890-160.asp
taylor 10.4 mm wires
MDS ignition with manual retard dial
3.73:1 rear gears
aftermaket EFI fuel pump
larger fuel lines
trans cooler with powered fan
1.5"deeper aluminum trans pan
175 hp wet nitrous kit (EXTENSIVELY MODIFYED and re-jetted) similar to this




Im currently collecting parts to upgrade to a BBC in the vette, after running various combos/ components and testing over a dozen cams and almost that many intakes based on this basic 383 design
several 700r4 transmission, a couple rear suspension,
and more replaced U-joints , tires and brakes ETC. than you would believe
(being retired hurts the spare cash budget flow rates)


WHAT WOULD I CHANGE IF I WAS STICKING WITH THE SBC 383?

keep in mind the current BASIC combos 12 years old and theres been a bunch of better parts come on line...It was a great combo at the time but it can be improved on now...

Id swap to the 66cc AFR 210cc heads,with L98 angle plugs and ID BUILD/WELD up a CUSTOM EFI intake , similar to the STEALTHRAM,
BUT,BASED on the
http://www.holley.com/300-44.asp



ID swap to this cam, and a 3500 rpm stall converter and a set of 42 lb injectors

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts& ;act...

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=p...

this would probably boost my hp 50-70 hp and raise both ends the useful rpm band about 600rpm, but make it even LESS street friendly to drive, and require a differant set of valve springs

but Im currently collecting parts to upgrade to a BBC in the vette, after running various combos/ components and testing over a dozen cams and almost that many intakes based on this basic 383 design
several 700r4 transmission, a couple rear suspension,
and more replaced U-joints , tires and brakes ETC. than you would believe
(being retired hurts the spare cash budget flow rates)

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 10-12-08 06:22 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
01-06-08 07:04 PM - Post#1336687    
    In response to grumpyvette

If your afraid to experiment, or too modify parts or try new things..... YOUR PROBABLY in the wrong HOBBY, you need too research your choices and ideas carefully, see if someone else tried it first and see what results they got,but do the research, theres lots of guys who could not melt ice without instuctions and they could still screw it up with a video guide, do the research, or youll find yourself in a never ending and bottomless money pit with little hope of building a killer combo at a near reasonable cost.
you DON,T NEED the absolute fastest car, what you need is a very dependable car thats far faster than most.
its no huge trick to exceed 450hp/450 ft lbs with a properly thought thru and assembled 383, and 500hp PLUS and 500ft lbs PLUS is certainly achievable WITHOUT & before you use nitrous

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 01-06-08 07:08 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
stroked83 
Contributor
Posts: 240

Age: 26
Loc: central IL
Reg: 05-01-08
05-13-08 06:56 PM - Post#1432388    
    In response to mylesdw

I'm in the process of a 383 stroker.
have gain alot of information on this and for the range of rpm and power this is the best small block, and bang for the buck

i have the 400 trans from T.C.I.
9inch with 3.90 gears running a 28 inch tire

any idea on rpm at 60?
dont have a tach

how do u guys get the power to stick to the street
ladder bars, traction bars, pinoin snubber.

pics would help

83 silverado c-10 short bed
383ci lunati cam, dart heads, 750 demon, cal-tracs bars
8.2902 @ 83.15mph 1/8 mile 3950lbs


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
05-14-08 10:39 AM - Post#1432766    
    In response to stroked83

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm

youll be turning about 2900 rpm at 60 mph with 28" tires and a 3.90:1 rear gear

as to traction, that depends on the tires and suspension your working with, naturally a leaf spring like an early camaro or nova is going to be differant that a chevelle with a coil spring rear

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


 
stroked83 
Contributor
Posts: 240

Age: 26
Loc: central IL
Reg: 05-01-08
05-14-08 08:26 PM - Post#1433181    
    In response to grumpyvette

i have a 9inch. leaf spring. on an 83 shortbed silverado, coils in the front another words stock suspension

83 silverado c-10 short bed
383ci lunati cam, dart heads, 750 demon, cal-tracs bars
8.2902 @ 83.15mph 1/8 mile 3950lbs


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
05-15-08 06:14 AM - Post#1433382    
    In response to stroked83

for LEAF SPRING REAR SUSPENSIONS a combo of adjustable air shocks and CALTRAC bars generally works, especially if EACH rear shock air pressure is individually adjustable
BTW Id suggest installing a firmly bolted down battery box and moving the battery to the far rear to help weight transfer and removing as much weight from the truck as possiable, glass hood, ETC.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autof...

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autof...

http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

http://www.novaresource.org/caltracs.htm

http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

http://www.4secondsflat.com/CalTracs.html

keep in mind you want to adjust the tire pressure also so you get equally dark black and full tire width tire rubber marks on the pavement,on both sides of the car when testing and you want your driving style to lauch the car so the tires spin a bit faster than the pavement passing under them and your getting very minimal or zero bog on the launch, once you get it correct lifting the front suspension noticably on the launch should become obvious to observers, durring the first 60-80 feet or more and 60 ft times will drop rapidly with practice

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 05-15-08 06:21 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
stroked83 
Contributor
Posts: 240

Age: 26
Loc: central IL
Reg: 05-01-08
05-15-08 07:45 PM - Post#1433920    
    In response to grumpyvette

thank you for the help.

has anyone tried a ladder bar on w/ these applications.

pinions snubber. Where could i get one.

just wanting to plant 450 horse...i know there will always be some tire spin and wheel hop

thanks again


83 silverado c-10 short bed
383ci lunati cam, dart heads, 750 demon, cal-tracs bars
8.2902 @ 83.15mph 1/8 mile 3950lbs


 
Jim.Biron 
"10th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 2956
Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
05-16-08 05:14 AM - Post#1434094    
    In response to grumpyvette

Wow... some great info in here. Now I'd like an opinion.
I'm not entirely happy with the "sound" of my 383. It just doesn't sound lumpy enough so I'm considering a cam change and going to a roller (I'm thinking a 'Thumper series')
Below are the specs of the engine with the exception of an edelbrock 2x4 (2 - 500 cfm carbs) on an air gap manifold (for show).The car is a 66 Belair with a M-20 4 speed and 3.73 rear gear and a 28" tire.

I'd like to get some opinion as to what roller I should go to (or should I). I know its more of a personal thing but all opinions are welcome.


383 SBC
• 440 hp @ 5800 RPM 448 ft. lbs torque 5100 RPM
• All new internals proffesionally
• Prepared block
Machine Work
• Select Hi Tin block 4 bolt main machined 030 040 060 -
• align bore and or check for run out.full race clearancing
• Mag Check-preasure check ...
• Hot Tank - Jet Wash ....
• Bore Torque Plate Hone ... Torque Plate Gives True Finish
• Clearance block - -casting flash only..
• shotpeen rods...
• Dynamic balance assembly..
• File fit rings - blue print clearance...
• press - pistons to rods...
• Install cam bearings - freeze plugs...
• Port blue print cylinder heads...

All new Performance Internal Parts
• Speed pro hyperutectic pistons 10.3 to 1 piston set[ PUMP GAS OK 91 OCTANE
• EAGLE STEEL crank with superior wear sized and indexed.
• Childs & Albert - zz gapdura Moly File Fit Rings... [provides the ultimate in ring sealing making more power!!
• Durabond - cam bearings...
• gm pink forged steel rods
• ARP - wavelock - rod bolts...
• Clevite- -bearings tri metal 77 - rod and main...
• comp cams custom hi output cam lifter set ..
• Cloyes - true roller set...
• Comp - cams cam locks...
• comp cams xe chrome moly pushrods
• Dyna gear race - oil pump...
• Dyna gear - pickup...
• ARP - steel drive...
• After market - oil pan. baffeld 5 qt
• After market - timing cover...
• pioneer/arp - head bolts...
• ARP/ - rocker studs 3/8...
• Fel Pro blue - gasket sets...
- Power Making Featured Parts
• ALL NEW EDITION EDELBROCK HEADS WITH REVISED COMBUSTION CHAMBERS CNC PORTS POWER MAKING FEATURES!!. Bowls blended,full ...
o Features - - -severe duty 2.02/1.60 valves plus ... 1.25 springs 7 degree super locks comp cam parts..good porting..3/8studs guide plates.gasket match p.c seals.chrome moly retainers[with mild port work these heads are better than ANY OUT BOX HEADS YOU COULD PUT ON FROM SAME MANUFACTURE
• hi perfromance roller rockers-1.6 ratio...
BTW- I'm willing to change out the 1.6 rockers.
• comp cams custom series- -muscle car cam Features - 110 center line 488 - 490 lift corrected 1.6 ratio = 520/522 lift. 226/228 dur @ 050 , 2000 stall needed.




Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 
Greggy 
Senior Member
Posts: 541
Greggy
Loc: Perth, Western Australia
Reg: 05-22-03
05-16-08 06:06 AM - Post#1434126    
    In response to Jim.Biron

Sorry, but a cam with 226/228 duration at 0.050" is not going to sound 'lumpy' in a 383. However with good induction, heads and exhaust it will still make serious streetable HP.

I run a Comp XE274 cam which has 230/236 duration at 0.050 in my 383 and if the carb is tuned right it only has a slight lope at idle.

If you want the 'race car' idle sound consider a cam in the 238/244 duration at 0.050 range.

Greggy - 1963 Impala 383 PG



 
Jim.Biron 
"10th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 2956
Jim.Biron
Age: 67
Loc: Monterey, TN
Reg: 04-10-08
05-16-08 06:40 AM - Post#1434140    
    In response to Greggy

Right, It just doesn't sound 'lumpy' enough.
What do you know about the Comp Cams 'Thumper' Cams. Do you like any of those?

Jim
www.HudsonValleyCruise.com


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
05-16-08 07:24 AM - Post#1434178    
    In response to Jim.Biron

if you want a cam that costs less than a roller cam, that BOTH sounds (LUMPY) and produces good HP and TQ Ive used this cam below in many builds similar to yours, many times and its always been a good choice, especially with 1.6:1 ratio rockers
keep in mind in most applications,a solid flat tappet cam easily adds 500rpm-1000rpm to the power range over a similar hydrolic cam.
using a hyrolic flat tappet in a performance 383 application is restricting your potential

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts& ;act...

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 05-16-08 07:34 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kevindtimm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1945
kevindtimm
Loc: Cedar Park, TX
Reg: 11-09-04
05-27-08 12:41 PM - Post#1442279    
    In response to grumpyvette

I see 383 kits for 5.565" and 5.7" rods. What is the difference in these kits? I assume that there's something different in the pistons, but I haven't been able to ascertain what's up.

And now to the simpleton question: If I get a 400 crank and a 350 block, what can I reuse (pistons, rods, etc), what do I machine (crank, mains, yes I realize that the block has to be clearanced, I saw that in an earlier post)?

I also realize that the valvetrain must be replaced (cam, pushrods, valve springs) but if I want to stay with the stock heads for the time being, is that OK? I don't have a block picked out yet, I'm just in the discovery phase.

TIA, KT

2008 Equinox LS - My only Chevy right now


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
05-27-08 12:51 PM - Post#1442284    
    In response to kevindtimm

  • kevindtimm Said:
I see 383 kits for 5.565" and 5.7" rods. What is the difference in these kits?
in most cases the shorter 5.565 rods are stock, possiably reworked 400 chevy rods used to allow 350 pistons to keep the cost down

I assume that there's something different in the pistons, but I haven't been able to ascertain what's up.

shorter rods are necessary to run 350 pistons in a stroker based on the longer stroke 400 crank with its 3.75" stroke vs the 350s 3.48" stroke


And now to the simpleton question: If I get a 400 crank and a 350 block, what can I reuse (pistons, rods, etc), what do I machine (crank, mains, yes I realize that the block has to be clearanced, I saw that in an earlier post)?

a 400 crank assembly has larger main bearing dia. and will require those be reduced its also externally ballanced so a new ballancer and flywheel or flex plates normally used and everthing needs to be clearanced and ballanced, there are internally ballanced 383 kits available that allow you to re-use your damper and flex plate, but its a good idea to ballance the assembly anyways

I also realize that the valvetrain must be replaced (cam, pushrods, valve springs)
in most cases youll need to check clearances carefully, and a new small base cam must be used in a few combos for rod top cam clearances, but in many cases the standard cams can be used

but if I want to stay with the stock heads for the time being, is that OK? I don't have a block picked out yet, I'm just in the discovery phase.
you can use the stock heads but youll be at a disaddvantage as most stock heads are flow restricted compared to the aftermarket heads available

TIA, KT



your almost always way ahead to buy a complete ballanced rotating assembly from a single manufacturer, that includes all the moving parts and bearings

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

http://www.ohiocrank.com/rotatepage1.html

http://www.adperformance.com/

http://www.lewisracingengines.com/

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 05-27-08 01:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kevindtimm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1945
kevindtimm
Loc: Cedar Park, TX
Reg: 11-09-04
05-27-08 01:47 PM - Post#1442337    
    In response to grumpyvette

Thanks for the info (and the fantastic speed of reply!)

I'm looking at the fact that I'll already have a complete running engine and a 400 crank. So, if I'm computing this correctly, I'll need an 'overhaul' kit (rings, bearings, etc.), the crank reground, the block clearanced, a new balancer and 5.565 rods to do the rotating assembly in the short block, correct?

If that is correct, which flywheel will I use? 350 or 400?

  • grumpyvette Said:
  • kevindtimm Said:
I see 383 kits for 5.565" and 5.7" rods. What is the difference in these kits?
in most cases the shorter 5.565 rods are stock, possiably reworked 400 chevy rods used to allow 350 pistons to keep the cost down

I assume that there's something different in the pistons, but I haven't been able to ascertain what's up.

shorter rods are necessary to run 350 pistons in a stroker based on the longer stroke 400 crank with its 3.75" stroke vs the 350s 3.48" stroke


And now to the simpleton question: If I get a 400 crank and a 350 block, what can I reuse (pistons, rods, etc), what do I machine (crank, mains, yes I realize that the block has to be clearanced, I saw that in an earlier post)?

a 400 crank assembly has larger main bearing dia. and will require those be reduced its also externally ballanced so a new ballancer and flywheel or flex plates normally used and everthing needs to be clearanced and ballanced, there are internally ballanced 383 kits available that allow you to re-use your damper and flex plate, but its a good idea to ballance the assembly anyways

I also realize that the valvetrain must be replaced (cam, pushrods, valve springs)
in most cases youll need to check clearances carefully, and a new small base cam must be used in a few combos for rod top cam clearances, but in many cases the standard cams can be used

but if I want to stay with the stock heads for the time being, is that OK? I don't have a block picked out yet, I'm just in the discovery phase.
you can use the stock heads but youll be at a disaddvantage as most stock heads are flow restricted compared to the aftermarket heads available

TIA, KT



your almost always way ahead to buy a complete ballanced rotating assembly from a single manufacturer, that includes all the moving parts and bearings

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

http://www.ohiocrank.com/rotatepage1.html

http://www.adperformance.com/

http://www.lewisracingengines.com/




2008 Equinox LS - My only Chevy right now


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
05-27-08 01:54 PM - Post#1442342    
    In response to kevindtimm

youll need the basic 350 overhaul kit, rings bearings , gaskets ETC,
PLUS the 400 crank main journal size cut to match the 350 size,block and bearings, the 400 flexplate or flywheel and damper, the 400s short rods and the 350 pistons that fit the blocks bore size, youll need the assembly clearanced and ballanced after that, OR you can use the longer 5.7" rods from the 350 with aftermarket pistons with the correct pin height,but youll still need the whole assembly clearanced and ballanced after that, the longer 350 style 5.7" rods and aftermarklet pistons are the prefered route

http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=sea...

http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=piston_com...

http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 05-27-08 02:03 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kevindtimm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1945
kevindtimm
Loc: Cedar Park, TX
Reg: 11-09-04
05-27-08 02:02 PM - Post#1442355    
    In response to grumpyvette

So, just to run around in circles, another option is to cut the mains of the 400 crank to the 350 block, use 5.7" rods that fit the 400 crank and pistons for those 5.7" rods. And still do the:

1) Balancing (seems about $200)
2) Balancer (another $125)
3) 400 flywheel ($ unknown)
4) Block clearancing ($50 from the info on your earlier entry in this post)

I think I'm more confused now than before

  • grumpyvette Said:
youll need the basic 350 overhaul kit, rings bearings , gaskets ETC,
PLUS the 400 crank main journal size cut to match the 350 size,block and bearings, the 400 flexplate or flywheel and damper, the 400s short rods and the 350 pistons that fit the blocks bore size, youll need the assembly clearanced and ballanced after that




2008 Equinox LS - My only Chevy right now


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
05-27-08 02:07 PM - Post#1442361    
    In response to kevindtimm

you seem to have the basics..........but like I stated before your likely better off buying a complete ballanced , matched set of components from a single source rather than piecing together the combo, and having a crank cut and assembly ballanced.
SCAT SELLS 9000 series cast steel assemblys reasonably priced

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/PDFs/Crank06.pdf
pg 33

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 05-27-08 02:09 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kevindtimm 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1945
kevindtimm
Loc: Cedar Park, TX
Reg: 11-09-04
05-27-08 07:36 PM - Post#1442588    
    In response to grumpyvette

It's funny how I can get a part for cheap (the crank) and still not be able to get to a good place

Thanks for all your advice.

  • grumpyvette Said:
you seem to have the basics..........but like I stated before your likely better off buying a complete ballanced , matched set of components from a single source rather than piecing together the combo, and having a crank cut and assembly ballanced.
SCAT SELLS 9000 series cast steel assemblys reasonably priced

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/PDFs/Crank06.pdf
pg 33




2008 Equinox LS - My only Chevy right now


 
89RStroker 
Contributor
Posts: 367
89RStroker
Reg: 01-07-08
05-27-08 07:50 PM - Post#1442602    
    In response to kevindtimm

How much abuse and power can the scat 9000 crank handle? Think a 7000 RPM motor would live?

6.0 LQ4, 242/248 @.050, .610/.615 lift, 110 LSA, Holley 750 Carb, Victor Jr intake, Stainless works headers, T56 6 speed trans, Moser 12 bolt 4.30 gears, manual steering and no AC.

Best to date, 7.1@97 MPH, 1.5 60 foot, stock junkyard 6.0 carb/cam


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17142
grumpyvette
Age: 70
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
05-27-08 07:55 PM - Post#1442609    
    In response to 89RStroker

Id strongly suggest that a 3.75" stroke crank thats expected to spin 7000rpm Should be forged 4340 steel

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


 
89RStroker 
Contributor
Posts: 367
89RStroker
Reg: 01-07-08
05-28-08 01:25 AM - Post#1442724    
    In response to grumpyvette

So if i hit 6800 it might be ok?

6.0 LQ4, 242/248 @.050, .610/.615 lift, 110 LSA, Holley 750 Carb, Victor Jr intake, Stainless works headers, T56 6 speed trans, Moser 12 bolt 4.30 gears, manual steering and no AC.

Best to date, 7.1@97 MPH, 1.5 60 foot, stock junkyard 6.0 carb/cam


 




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