sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-20-12 09:56 AM - Post#2227844
This is a problem no mechanic has had a complete answer for yet. I installed a new radiator and engine oil cooler lines. When towing a trailer, the oil gauge bounced all over (0 to 45#), there was a loss of power (could not accelerate past 50 mph), and the lifters were clanging. This has happened three times pulling the trailer at almost the exact same mileage marker on I-35 North of OKC. It happens after driving about 75 miles. Without the trailer it happens at about 90 miles. One mechanic says the radiator is constricting the oil line when hot and this prevents the oil from getting to the upper part of the engine. My water temperature is right where it should be. It runs like it is low on oil, yet the oil is full. I installed a 7qt oil pan and high flow oil pump (from Summit) and this makes no difference. I am going to install a Hayden engine oil cooler. But if I drive without a trailer and this happens, and it didn't till I installed a new radiator and oil cooler lines, I am wondering if another oil cooler is going to make a difference. The mechanic said the after market radiators are the problem. Is this true? Can the oil cooler lines be connected wrong and cause the flow of oil to the radiator to be constricted? The engine is a Jasper 350 with about 60,000 miles on it, placed in a 93 Chevy Silverado 2500. Thanks in advance.
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Allan In NE
Contributor
Posts: 908
Reg: 12-27-11
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05-20-12 10:23 AM - Post#2227855
In response to sharpshooter
Dunno Pard,
Just reading between the lines here, but I'd forget all the above. You can take that oil cooler clear out of the equation and it won't matter one bit.
Do you have good soild oil pressure when it's running right? You real sure it was lifters doin' the clatterin'? Not preignition? Any knock on the bottom end?
Think I'd address that driveability issue first.
Knock sensor(s), fuel filter, fuel pump or maybe even a bad ground somewhere? Ya might possibly cure that wiggley oil pressure gauge too.
Dunno,
Allan
| Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist |
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sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-20-12 07:39 PM - Post#2228028
In response to Allan In NE
Thanks for the input. I had a new fuel pump installed in the tank last week. It had 7.1# pressure and it is supposed to be 11-14. I replaced the fuel filter as well. The oil pressure holds at 45# till I start getting close to the 75 mile point. Then the oil pressure starts dropping till it hits 37-38# and holds there with the lifter noise and a loss of power. The oil pressure gauge does not jump around like it did before I did all the part replacements. If I slow down from 70 to 50-55, then the lifter noise disappears. But I still don't have the power to pass anybody. It is clearly lifter noise and there is no bottom end noise from rods and mains. When I start the day with around town driving it is a purrfect sounding motor.
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sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-20-12 07:43 PM - Post#2228031
In response to sharpshooter
Just remembered the fuel pump replacement solved the inability to accelerate past 50mph. There was a point where I couldn't go past 25-30mph and it took a long time to drive the last 20 miles home.
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drifterdude
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1282
Reg: 09-04-08
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05-20-12 08:50 PM - Post#2228048
In response to sharpshooter
30PSI is not to low by any means. Its not RPM related only speed right?
92 K1500:350 bored 30 over,built 700r4,Comp extreme energy cam,double roller timing set,shaved heads,Rancho RS9000XL series shocks with wireless my ride system,35 inch Mickey Thompson Baja Claws,Relocated 4x4 switch to rocker on Dash.
Other mods.. |
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 someotherguy
Moderator
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Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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05-20-12 08:55 PM - Post#2228051
In response to drifterdude
If it's genuinely a pressure problem - wonder if the oil return holes in the heads are mostly clogged, causing slow return?
Richard
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Allan In NE
Contributor
Posts: 908
Reg: 12-27-11
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05-21-12 03:02 AM - Post#2228084
In response to sharpshooter
When was the last time you adjusted those valves? Were they adjusted when the new motor was dropped in? Hot and running?
It really sounds like it's acting up when the oil thins out (an hour on the Interstate and that oil has the same consistency of water).
If all you're fighting now is that lifter clatter, I'd sure start there.
Also, (and this is coming from out in left field) check that clutch hub. Those things can set up all sorts of annoying noises when they go south.
Allan
| Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist |
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Allan In NE
Contributor
Posts: 908
Reg: 12-27-11
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05-21-12 03:03 AM - Post#2228085
In response to sharpshooter
When was the last time you adjusted those valves? Were they adjusted when the new motor was dropped in? Hot and running?
It really sounds like it's acting up when the oil thins out (an hour on the Interstate and that oil has the same consistency of water).
If all you're fighting now is that lifter clatter, I'd sure start there.
Also, (and this is coming from out in left field) check that clutch hub. Those things can set up all sorts of annoying noises when they go south.
Allan
| Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist |
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sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-21-12 05:52 AM - Post#2228133
In response to Allan In NE
The mechanic that installed the Jasper engine says he has had several after market radiators cause this problem. His explanation is that it is like a tube within a tube that cools the oil. When it gets hot the tube swells and blocks the flow of oil, thus starving the upper engine parts. He said he has had this happen several times. Logically, this doesn't seem to make sense. One would think an after market company would correct this problem in their manufacturing process, if it was a common problem. All I know for sure is that I didn't have this problem until I installed the new radiator and oil cooler lines. My experiment now is to install the Hayden oil cooler, plug the radiator holes for the original oil cooler lines and rely on the air cooled oil instead of water cooled oil. If the problem is not solved then, then I am back to square one. As for the oil holes in the head being plugged, I would think I would have a problem after driving only a few miles instead of 75-90. This is essentially a new engine with only 60,000 miles in 3 years. It runs perfectly until I hit the 75 mile marker. My only other thought is the possibility of it being a computer chip control module problem that is causing the problem beyond my understanding except to just replace it. I also replaced the ignition module. I am not sure how valve adjustment would effect the oil pressure after an hour of driving. I have just enough mechanical knowledge to be dangerous  Thanks to all for your input. Roland in KS.
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sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-21-12 05:55 AM - Post#2228134
In response to sharpshooter
I will look into this valve adjustment possibility.
Thanks Allen.
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sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-21-12 05:55 AM - Post#2228135
In response to sharpshooter
Correction... thanks Allan!
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markss
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Posts: 67
Age: 59
Loc: Palm Beach County, Fl
Reg: 12-02-11
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05-21-12 09:37 AM - Post#2228197
In response to sharpshooter
Sharpshooter, If your oiling problems started with the new radiator, look there. If you have the old radiator (I assume it was replaced because of a coolant leak) reinstall it, fill it with water so as not to waste your coolant, and take it for a drive. If that sovles the problem then you know it's the new radiator. If you don't have the old one, a junkyard part or just take the new one back and get a better (namebrand) radiator. I'm assuming you did the work yourself, if you had it done at a radiator shop, take it back and have a better radiator installed and adjust the price. It doesn't take long for collapsed lifters to destroy valvetrain parts.
Good Luck, Mark
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sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-21-12 12:56 PM - Post#2228257
In response to markss
Thanks, Mark. I took my truck to the shop that installed the Jasper 350 engine this morning and he said since I put a 7 qt. oil pan on the truck, he thought I could drive it without an oil cooler. He says the metal is so thin it just collapses and obstructs the oil flow once it is hot. I am going to plug the radiator and the filter off and see what happens. The old radiator is long gone. I installed it myself and purchased from Auto Zone (which may be part of the problem). I ordered the largest Hayden air engine oil cooler, as suggested by Hayden Tech Support, and it will be here in the morning. They said the large one will be enough if the radiator cooler is removed. I have not installed the medium cooler so I can exchange it. My mechanic says this is a common problem with the after market radiators. A lot of engines have probably been ruined because of this. I hope this will help others. I will post the final outcome.
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someotherguy
Moderator
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Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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05-21-12 03:27 PM - Post#2228319
In response to sharpshooter
This is actually the first time I've heard of anyone accusing the oil cooler inside the new replacement radiators. Haven't heard of any kind of complaint like that. Not saying it's impossible, just that so far it doesn't appear to be some widespread issue.
Unless it gets extremely hot (100+ regularly) where you live, or you're hauling heavy loads with the truck, you don't need any kind of oil cooler, even with the stock pan. Lots of trucks lived just fine before oil coolers became stock equipment - and not all of the 88-98 trucks came with them, including some of the heavier trucks in the 1/2 ton spectrum. Something to think about.
Richard
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sharpshooter
Forum Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 05-20-12
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05-22-12 03:47 PM - Post#2228721
In response to someotherguy
I will know by tomorrow if this is a radiator oil cooler problem. My mechanic says he has had several problems with this. He wouldn't have a reason to make up a bogus cause. Here are some if's: If the oil pump pumps oil to the filter and oil cooler line first, and if, once the oil temp is high enough to expand metal, and the tolerance is so close between the water and oil line inside the radiator, then the metal expands and shuts off the flow of oil. So that would be how the engine is starved for oil, after driving 75 miles, even though it is full. At this time, there is not enough oil going back to the engine. None of it makes sense to me unless there is a design flaw in this make of radiator. I think a big part of the puzzle is the fact that there is no problem until I drive 75 miles. Something happens then due to heat. If I park for a couple of hours, then I can drive for another 75 miles. It is weird!
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someotherguy
Moderator
Posts: 23403
Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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05-22-12 04:37 PM - Post#2228745
In response to sharpshooter
I'm certainly not trying to argue with you but I'm saying this is the very first time I've heard of it being a possible cause for your issue. As far as your guy making up bogus causes, not saying that either, but I've met more than my share of people that get an idea in their head about a reason for something, they may be experienced, well-informed, and bright - but doesn't always mean they're correct.
Staying tuned for your findings.
Richard
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drifterdude
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1282
Reg: 09-04-08
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05-22-12 05:02 PM - Post#2228753
In response to someotherguy
I dunno if the aftermarket are the same as stock on build but I do know from taking a few apart for scrap that the oil and tranny cooler sides are there own separate set of vertical cooling lines inside that are clipped to the horizontal sections inside. The vertical fins on stock are about a quarter inch thick each and if so on aftermarket unless they just use a thick wall build there should be plenty of room for flow.
They may have flaws with a crimp or kinks somewhere in some models though that could explain it but if it was a large issue I would expect a recall on them due to severe engine damage claims and that testing would result in a resolution. If you can find a junk yard or if the mechanic can get ahold of one for testing swap in a stock rad and see if it keeps happening.
92 K1500:350 bored 30 over,built 700r4,Comp extreme energy cam,double roller timing set,shaved heads,Rancho RS9000XL series shocks with wireless my ride system,35 inch Mickey Thompson Baja Claws,Relocated 4x4 switch to rocker on Dash.
Other mods.. |
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454cid
Contributor
Posts: 299
Age: 40
Reg: 02-18-12
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05-22-12 06:19 PM - Post#2228774
In response to drifterdude
I would think that if the oil cooler were a major restriction then it would simply bypass.
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