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tardisguy
Contributor
Posts: 120
Age: 28
Loc: San Antonio, TX
Reg: 09-15-10
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 11-21-10 12:33 AM - Post#2007259
Is there a easier way to remove the front coil springs than what the haynes manuals says to do. Haynes manual says to pull wheel(thats ok), pull shock absorber(no problem), disconnect outer rod end from steering knukle(ok), remove sway bar end bolt(cool), compress spring using tool(ok), place floor jack under lower control arm and remove two lower control arm bolts at the frame then lower jack and remove spring(PAIN IN THE BUTT!!!). Those two bolts did not want to come out. After some stong persuasion from my BFH, they complied. Installation is reverse of removal. Getting the bolts back in took almost two hours because the mount holes would not line up. Using my BFH, a nice big punch, and a few screwdrivers I finally got the job done. Would it work better instead to just leave the mount bolts in and just remove the lower ball joint and lower the arm with the jack to let the spring out.
Andrew
91 Chevy C1500 ext cab, TBI 350 auto, 2in suspension lift. (DD)
86 Chevy M C SS, auto 305 with port and polish, Flowtech Afterburner headers, duals to Jegs chambered mufflers (Weekend toy/project)
2012 Mitsu Outlander Sport (wife's DD) |
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 someotherguy
Moderator
Posts: 23372
Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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11-21-10 12:39 AM - Post#2007262
In response to tardisguy
Yep, there's a somewhat easier way - pulling the lower control arm off the frame for this is nuts.
Here's my favorite method. Read through it as many times as it takes to understand why you would perform each step before you do it - this is a dangerous job no matter which method you choose.
1. Truck up on jack stands at the frame - remove wheels, calipers (don't totally remove, just hang them on frame as if you were going to pull the rotor), shocks, sway bar end links, then rotate the sway bar out of the way.
2. Place large floor jack under lower control arm, but leave about a 1" gap.
During next step until finished, be sure to not put fingers, tools, anything near the area between lower control arm and jack. The jack is there to catch the control arm in case it lets go before you're ready.
3. Loosen lower ball joint nut. Thread it out so there's a gap between it and spindle, but stop at top of stud so nut is still fully engaged on threads.
4. With a normal sized hammer, (I use a 2.5 lb ball peen), strike spindle horizontally where ball joint stud goes through. Don't have to kill it; just takes a few firm strikes. Spring pressure will pop spindle and stud apart.
5. Jack up lower control arm to take up slack you just created, go a tiny bit further to slightly compress spring.
6. Finish removing ball joint nut.
7. Lower jack VERY SLOWLY and evenly. If you have a jack that is hard to control, consider buying or borrowing a better one, because this is the dangerous part of the job. You are releasing the spring pressure.
8. When control arm is lowered completely, spring will have little to no pressure. (3/4 and 1 ton trucks will have a tiny bit more due to spring height)
9. For extra safety, stand behind rear of wheelwell and use a long pry bar to nudge spring out of pocket, then you can remove it.
This sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't; my favorite brag which is 100% true: I can hook a parts truck in the yard with my wrecker, drag it over to the slab and set it down on jack stands, unhook it, then start taking it apart - can have both sides done and springs out, cut a couple of scrap 2x4's to substitute so the truck will still sit at normal height, hook it back up and stick it back in its spot in the yard - 45 minutes start to finish, without even rushing.
A real advantage to this method is it doesn't require any special tools (spring compressor or and pickle fork) and will not harm the ball joint boots in case you're not replacing the ball joints at that time.
If you're wanting to remove spindle as well, or the whole front end for rebuilding, pop upper ball joint the same way before removing lower ball joint from spindle; leave the upper connected until you've removed spring. Always do the lower control arm first because it's necessary for removing spring.
Richard
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tardisguy
Contributor
Posts: 120
Age: 28
Loc: San Antonio, TX
Reg: 09-15-10
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11-21-10 08:44 AM - Post#2007354
In response to someotherguy
And to get the spring in just reverse the steps? Maybe compress the new spring some just to get it in the pockets? Im putting lift coils in. Also is the weight of the truck enough to keep it from coming off the jack stands when you lift the control arm back up to reconnect it?
Andrew
91 Chevy C1500 ext cab, TBI 350 auto, 2in suspension lift. (DD)
86 Chevy M C SS, auto 305 with port and polish, Flowtech Afterburner headers, duals to Jegs chambered mufflers (Weekend toy/project)
2012 Mitsu Outlander Sport (wife's DD) |
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someotherguy
Moderator
Posts: 23372
Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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11-21-10 08:58 AM - Post#2007362
In response to tardisguy
Putting in lift springs without a spring compressor might pose a challenge; I'd start by seeing if you can put it in without the compressor. If you can't pop it into the pocket without much force, you'll need the spring compressor. I'd compress it the absolute minimum necessary to get it installed.
As step 5 says, you only put a small amount of pressure on the lower control arm. This is to ensure it's not going to fly apart while your hand is in there removing the nut.
Richard
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docs89gta
Contributor
Posts: 217
Age: 42
Loc: Georgia
Reg: 10-18-07
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11-21-10 03:52 PM - Post#2007526
In response to someotherguy
In this method of removal, i had an old shop teacher, who said this OFF the record, to wrap a chain around the spring for extra security of it flying out. This was for a different vehicle, so it may not be needed in this application.
I have done this on my 75 Nova and it worked just fine without a compressor, but i was going back with the same spring.
| 95 Chevy Z71, 89 Pontiac Trans Am GTA, 75 Chevy Nova LN (sold) |
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someotherguy
Moderator
Posts: 23372
Age: 43
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
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11-21-10 04:27 PM - Post#2007547
In response to docs89gta
I've done it to remove stock springs and install dropped ones; I've also done the opposite - putting stock springs back in. Gotta love being able to tear down the entire front end (except pitman and idler arm) with no special tools whatsoever, save for maybe a pickle fork on the tie rods.
Richard
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Nick94
Forum Newbie
Posts: 66
Reg: 05-07-12
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06-12-12 06:46 AM - Post#2236134
In response to someotherguy
Richard, I am rebuilding the complete front end on my 94 3500 (not HD. how hard is to remove the lower control bolts, any tricks from the trade? also the bushing are bigger than the top, what do you recomend using to remove the old bushings from the lower control arm?
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