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Username Post: head drain hole location        (Topic#239909)
Senior Member
Posts: 861

Loc: DFW, Tx
Reg: 06-08-05
04-12-10 08:28 AM - Post#1897203    

Hi all,

I took the valve covers off my 350 this weekend and noticed the passenger side had about a cup of oil that spilled out when I removed the cover.

I'm guessing the drain hole is blocked since it did not happen on the drivers side.

Where are the drain holes located? I couldn't find them if my life depended on them?

Anybody have a picture?
1990 r-1500 suburban, 350 TBI, 2wd

"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 8801
Age: 71
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Reg: 01-05-02
04-12-10 10:16 AM - Post#1897261    
    In response to ggenovez www.the...

At each end, pretty hard to miss.
82 Monte Carlo SC, 355 w/Vortec heads, roller rockers, 670 Street Avenger, Pypes true duals.
2000 Sub.5.3L 40 Gallons of gas @ $2.19/gal. bla bla bla.

Senior Member
Posts: 861

Loc: DFW, Tx
Reg: 06-08-05
04-12-10 11:00 AM - Post#1897284    
    In response to black95jimmy

LOL. Thanks!

Hard to miss, unless they're not draining and you cant see them cuz of the oil

What's The best way to clean them?
1990 r-1500 suburban, 350 TBI, 2wd

Senior Member
Posts: 459

Age: 44
Reg: 06-19-06
04-12-10 12:29 PM - Post#1897326    
    In response to ggenovez

I can think of 2 methods I would be comfortable with.........

Take the shop vac and tape a small hose to the end of the larger hose and suck them out , might be a little messy for the vac ,but then whatever is in there would be out of the engine.

The other not so good method would be poke it with a hanger and drain the oil.
Its gunna cost more and take longer,trUst me!!

"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 16018

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
04-12-10 08:21 PM - Post#1897625    
    In response to shawnlee

If the engine is gunked up enough so that the oil drainback holes are not working, you will have to remove enough gunk to get it flowing again.

Just using a shop vac won't remove the gunk - it doesn't have enough power to remove caked on oil gunk. You will have to use a screwdriver or narrow putty knife to remove the gunk. You would definitely want to use a shop vac in conjunction with this method, to minimize any gunk getting down into the rest of the motor.

Motor oil getting stranded in the valve covers is worse than SMALL amounts of gunk dropping into the motor. One will kill the motor quicker than the other.

You should run a few cans of motor flush through the motor, and run some cheap lightweight viscosity motor oil in between each can of flush, and change the filter and oil each time you flush. This should help remove a fair amount of the gunk you have built up in this motor.

Senior Member
Posts: 861

Loc: DFW, Tx
Reg: 06-08-05
04-13-10 04:31 AM - Post#1897710    
    In response to Vaughn

So clean as much as I can then fill with oil and a Q of kerosene, run until engine gets hot, drain and repeat?

How many times?

Also looking at the picture there are only 2 drain holes. Correct?
1990 r-1500 suburban, 350 TBI, 2wd

grumpyvette 67
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 16267
Age: 67
Reg: 03-16-01
04-13-10 07:16 AM - Post#1897784    
    In response to ggenovez

Ill assume you've just bought a used car and you find the engines sludged up, as the previous owner assumed oil changes were optional,because IM sure if your reading this your a car guy and change YOUR oil regularly???????

the correct route, to removing the waxy sludge is to remove and disassemble the engine and clean it thoroughly, because the crud is bound to be packed with micro abrasive crud, oils high in paraffin like some of the older Quaker state strait 30w tend to sludge up faster than others.
higher engine temps tend to form varnishes and residue faster and naturally frequent oil changes and a high quality oil with lots of sludge solvents & detergents helps delay the sludge formation.
get out a large drain pan and remove the oil pan plug, drain the oil, remove the oil filter and pull both rocker covers and if you want to do a much better job pull the intake for lifter gallery access and break up and remove as much sludge from the engine as you can reach,, replace the valve covers and intake, you really don,t want to pump a great deal of loose crud under pressure thru the oil passages and bearing surfaces, so remove all you can physically, then pour a mix of about two quarts of diesel fuel and 4 quarts of cheap 10w30 weight oil thru the engine and let it drain out into a oil catch pan,after letting the engine idle for about 5 minutes to flush out as much crud as will flow out easily,you DON,t WANT to run anything but oil in the engine under load, as it will tend to damage the bearing surfaces and replace the oil and oil filter after the diesel/oil flush has drained, refill the engine with 2 quarts of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL and several quarts of a good synthetic oil and a new oil filter, then drive the car for a couple days, and drain and replace the oil and filter with the same mix at least twice , as the solvents and detergents will tend to break up the remaining sludge. then use the same mix of oils for the next few oil changes but change oil at UNDER 2500 mile intervals, , your engine should look far cleaner in about 3-4 weeks time, sludge will dissolve fairly fast with a mix of 2 quarts of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL and several quarts of a good synthetic oil but the filter will not trap 100% of the crud so both the oil and filter will need to be changed frequently, until the engine clean internally and after that ID suggest going no more than 5000 miles between changes

there are ENGINE FLUSH PRODUCTS, but you DON,t WANT to run anything but oil in the engine under load, as it will tend to damage the bearing surfaces 32-o... ... ngine-flu...

Edited by grumpyvette on 04-13-10 07:29 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1910
Loc: Macomb, IL
Reg: 10-18-01
04-13-10 12:40 PM - Post#1897891    
    In response to grumpyvette

After you have followed Grumpyvette's instructions, I would advise you to use one quart of Rislone along with your regular motor oil each time you change oil. Rislone is oil with a high detergent factor and it will keep your engine clean and help prevent an build up.

"There's no 12-step program for stupid."

383 sbc, Eagle, AFR, SRP, CompCams, Edelbrock, Sanderson. Dyno #'s: 450 hp @ 5700, 468 ft. lbs. torque @ 4300. n

"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 16018

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
04-13-10 08:53 PM - Post#1898193    
    In response to rumrumm

I would never run kerosene in place of motor oil. That is just a recipe for disaster. Unfortunately, this is one of those "old mechanics tricks" that a lot of people hear about - but you should never try. Kerosene is fine for a flush straight through the motor and out through the pan into a drain pan, but never inside the pressurized motor oil galleys.

A GOOD engine flush product will tell you not to put ANY load on the motor while the product is in the motor oil. Use in conjunction with high detergent lightweight motor oil, and only let that motor idle while running it through the oil system.

Follow the instructions above.

Senior Member
Posts: 861

Loc: DFW, Tx
Reg: 06-08-05
04-14-10 06:44 AM - Post#1898318    
    In response to Vaughn

Thanks Guys.

Will do.

Grumpy, I do my own oil changes cuz I've I know personally a few mechanics and what they use. PASS.

Look like the Original owner kept everything original. Including the oil. :D
1990 r-1500 suburban, 350 TBI, 2wd

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