lone star
Contributor
Posts: 108
Reg: 08-24-08
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04-22-12 07:50 AM - Post#2217846
hello folks. been a while since i posted. the car is 62 impala 2dr ht. yesterday i did some work to the tail end. new lenses, bezels etc. didnt mess with any wiring didnt even take out the bulbs. once finished i go to make sure all lights work properly. go to turn on the right turn signal....works.....but wont turn off. my first guess was the cancel cam because it felt kind of loose. so i take the steering wheel off and see whats going on....looks to be working fine....so i did deeper and remove the entire assembly....(the whole section where the gear indicator sits on top of ) and the turn signal STILL stays on......only way i can get it to turn off is by removing the flasher......any ideas?
since i had the wheel off, i decided to finally get the horn to work properly. the horn wire is hot, and works if i ground it out, but wont work by pressing the horn button on steering wheel. i think im missing some internals, does anyone have a diagram of what the horn assembly should looks like?
Edited by lone star on 04-22-12 07:54 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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roccaas
Contributor
Posts: 646
Loc: Savannah, Georgia
Reg: 05-01-11
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04-22-12 01:09 PM - Post#2217919
In response to lone star
No pics, and the Assembly Guide has only generic pics.
I replaced my turn signal assembly a few weeks back, so let me see if I can remember anything valid.
Is the "prong" that points down from the rocking part of the switch engaging the copper springs in the base that initialize the signal?
You should see two thin, fragile, springy coper wires in the base of the switch. On a '63 they are in the upper half of the base, above the midline of the steering column. The prong pushes the respective wire closed to initiate the signal for that side (R vs L). If the prong is broken, it may be jamming the signal.
If you can't get the signal to cancel by rocking the switch to the other signal, this could be the trouble.
As for the horn, you said that it honks when you ground the wire. That would indicate a problem in getting the rocking action of the horn ring to close the ground circuit from the steering shaft to the copper annulus.
I had to apologize to my neighbors in advance of working the installation repeatedly to get the horn to sound!
The Contact Bushing that nests into a hole at 2 o'clock on the wheel transfers the ground from the action of the horn ring down to the copper annulus that you see immediately under the removed steering wheel, completing the ground from the steering shaft. Do you have this Bushing, and are the copper ends clean?
http://www.impalas.com/1949-1966-chevy-horn- contac...
All these parts, as appropriate for your year also need to be in place to allow the horn ring to float above the wheel, and rock enough to initiate the grounding of the circuit.
http://www.impalas.com/1958-1960-and-1964-im pala-h...
For the good old American lifestyle: For the money, for the glory, and for the fun... mostly for the money.
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doubleE
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3694
Loc: Eagan MN
Reg: 06-02-03
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04-22-12 01:24 PM - Post#2217922
In response to lone star
I fought this battle with my 62 and believe there were several things that were responsible for my problems. Here are my ideas:
1 Cable/T.S.switch out of adjustment. As you may know the actual T.S.switch is located behind the dash and mounted on top of the steering colume. It is linked to the lever and cancel mechanism by a cable that's adjustable where the cable attaches to the switch. Has to be just right for both left and right to work.
2 Damaged or stuck cable. If there's to much resistence for the wire core to slide inside the outer sheath, it will not operate properly.
3 The cancel mechanism is not assembled correctly or parts are worn to the point it will not operate, to much slop.
My big issue was the failure of the cancel mechanism failing to turn off in one direction. Turned out to be the upper steering shaft bearing. It positioned the shaft off center which prevented top (left I think) pawl from making contact with the cancel cam. A new bearing fixed that.
There are drawings (not the best) in the 62 Shop Manual Supplement. If you don't have a copy there's a link (sticky) at the top of this forum.
Eric
| Proud owner of
My Blue 62
Impala SS |
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lone star
Contributor
Posts: 108
Reg: 08-24-08
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04-22-12 04:56 PM - Post#2218003
In response to doubleE
Good info felllas. It was the cable down at the switch that slipped out. There used to be alot of slop in the mechanism. And that lead to the cable getting out of wack. Its all tightened up now with no slop. Next thing is the horn. Is there supposed to be a spring in there somewhere?.....as far as disturbing the neighbors i cut the horn wire at the horn while messing with it.....instead of the horn blowing u just get a clicking sound.....better that scaring myself lol
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lone star
Contributor
Posts: 108
Reg: 08-24-08
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04-22-12 05:00 PM - Post#2218006
In response to roccaas
Thanks. I have all those parts pictured so i guess im not missing anything. Maybe i need to wire brush the rust and corrosion off of the thin contact washer. Because everything is in place and the horn button rocks back and forth so im guessing its not getting good contact
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slo
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2010
Age: 30
Loc: Houston Tx
Reg: 03-16-08
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04-23-12 06:24 AM - Post#2218168
In response to lone star
ok so i was going over the same with lone start back n foth while i was working on my 64.
have a new flasher and since then my pass side only rear turn signal stays on unless i pull the flasher. nothign else activates in any way.
and cant see any cables coming up the column except the horn wire.
i can hear the plastic cable inside but cant see it.
also my column is a tilt and its a mess of levers and springs in there that i rather not take apart if i can help it,
ill see if i can get pics if it helps
1964 Impala SS
1964 Impala station wagon
1953 chevy 210
2005 Silverado |
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doubleE
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3694
Loc: Eagan MN
Reg: 06-02-03
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04-23-12 04:24 PM - Post#2218383
In response to lone star
Isn't it fun threading that thin stiff wire into the clip while you're upside down and wondering how you will ever get out of that position?
The horn... mine did not work after I had restored the steering wheel. What happed was to much paint on the metal hub of the wheel. Its been awhile but as I recall when you press the horn ring and collaspe the spring disk, it needs to make contact with the steering wheel hub which is grounded.
(this ground potential is then routed via the spring loaded contact to the stationary brass ring which in turn has the green horn button wire connected. That goes to the horn relay)
Even though I left most of the hub bare, the contact is made at the outside edge of the hub and the new paint acted as an insulator. Once I scraped the excess paint off, the horn blew once more.
Eric
| Proud owner of
My Blue 62
Impala SS |
Edited by doubleE on 04-23-12 04:28 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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lone star
Contributor
Posts: 108
Reg: 08-24-08
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04-23-12 05:49 PM - Post#2218433
In response to doubleE
im going to look more into it in next couple days. im 6'3 235lbs, and was thinking it was easier to just lay there all night and go to sleep instead of trying to crawl out from under the dash...
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slo
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2010
Age: 30
Loc: Houston Tx
Reg: 03-16-08
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04-24-12 04:36 AM - Post#2218554
In response to lone star
im going to look more into it in next couple days. im 6'3 235lbs, and was thinking it was easier to just lay there all night and go to sleep instead of trying to crawl out from under the dash...
imma drop off my 64 at your farm so you can fix it while your at it.
1964 Impala SS
1964 Impala station wagon
1953 chevy 210
2005 Silverado |
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lone star
Contributor
Posts: 108
Reg: 08-24-08
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04-24-12 07:49 PM - Post#2218835
In response to slo
Bring it. Give me somtething to do out here.
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