Chip Fish
Forum Newbie
Posts: 2
Loc: Vancouver BC
Reg: 09-28-11
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08-04-12 02:52 PM - Post#2255719
OK. So I'm trying to replace the rear main engine seal on my 1952 235. I have all the bearing caps loosened but the crankshaft will not drop at all. I know this topic has come up a lot but I haven't found anything about what to do when the crankshaft does not drop. Does anything else need to be removed or loosened? Does the flywheel need to be removed? Any links to old posts or just helpful tips would be appreciated.
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 2blu52
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 13093
Age: 79
Loc: Montana
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08-04-12 05:45 PM - Post#2255760
In response to Chip Fish
You have done it right as I understand it. The crank is not going to move much as it is still tied to the transmission. Removing the flywheel would have no effect on the crank moving downward. 
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"
THOMAS JEFFERSON |
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 50hotrod
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 366
Age: 56
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
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08-04-12 06:09 PM - Post#2255767
In response to 2blu52
It's been a long time since I replaced a rope type seal in the vehicle but from what I remember...
You must soak the new seal in oil first. We never used the tool to pull the new seal through. Not that it doesn't work well, we just never had it.
Loosening all the main caps letting the crank drop slightly will aide in removal and installation. Once the old seal is removed, start working the new rope seal around the crank.
This was the tricky part. We used anything and everything that would fit, pushing with tiny screw drivers, even grabbing the seal with a needle nose pliers and pushing worked. Sometime one person would hand turn the engine while the other worked the seal around the crank.
Once the new seal is in you need to pack it from both sides before trimming and re-tightening the main bolts. We would pack it in as tight as we could with a small blunt tools and the needle nose pliers. The tighter the better. A correctly installed rope seal will actually create a drag on the crank you will feel if you had the engine on a stand and installing it during a fresh rebuild.
After packing the seal re-tighten the main bolts.
You can now trim the excess rope protruding from the block. It can be trimmed flush or on a slight angle with the high end at the crankshaft. Don't leave more then about a thumb nail thickness protruding from the block and NEVER trim it lower then the block surface. DO NOT pull on the excess rope while trimming. Remember, packing is the key to success.
Now the easy part. Pack the new seal in the cap. You want the new seal to fully seat with the bottom of the groove in the cap. This is what you were doing when you were packing the seal in the block, seating it to the bottom of the groove in the block.
Now trim the excess. I think we just used a side cutters to snip it and pushed the extra down flush. In fact now that I think about it that is exactly what we did. We were always concerned about a gap on the mating ends. Do this on the block side also.
Optional..............Below
Apply a very thin coat of silicone on the cap mating surface to block and install. Hope this helps.
Well, you know what's wrong with the world today
People done gone and put their Bible's away
They're living by the law of the jungle not the law of the land
"Simple Man" By Charlie Daniels
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 bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4913
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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08-04-12 06:18 PM - Post#2255772
In response to Chip Fish
Look at pages 6-23 and 6-24 of the SERVICE MANUAL. Pay special attention to step #6 on page 24.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/...
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motorman
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5024
Loc: south western pa.
Reg: 01-25-00
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08-04-12 06:45 PM - Post#2255782
In response to bobg1951chevy
how about this  http://www.classicparts.com/1953-62-Neoprene-Rear -...
| retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector. new corvettes owned 1959,1962,1963,1964,1965, 1966,1997,1999,2002,2005, 2008 plus 30+ other chevy cars and trucks along the way |
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2blu52
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Age: 79
Loc: Montana
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08-04-12 07:44 PM - Post#2255804
In response to motorman
Would really check that very closely. The neoprene seal is made for a different crank than is in the 52. Possibly the 55 and up.
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"
THOMAS JEFFERSON |
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bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4913
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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08-04-12 08:42 PM - Post#2255835
In response to 2blu52
Would really check that very closely. The neoprene seal is made for a different crank than is in the 52. Possibly the 55 and up.
I think Gene had info on what year could use what seal, I tend to think you are correct about this seal being for a later 235.
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whiskey1954
Contributor
Posts: 442
Loc: central north carolina
Reg: 12-07-08
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08-05-12 06:00 AM - Post#2255887
In response to bobg1951chevy
Bobg: the advertisement claims that seal is for 53-62 235 for a truck any difference for the truck engine and the car other than the powerglide motor
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bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4913
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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08-05-12 11:49 AM - Post#2256005
In response to whiskey1954
Yes, I see the advertisement is speaking of 1953, but it seems to me there is a differnce, as already stated, concerning the crank. It's not always a "one size fits all" as stated in the ad. Heck, if that were true, I would have had more girlfriends, back in the day. 
If I don't have the correct answer, I will not say "maybe". Instead, Gene has the answer for this one, for he does know... and I do not.
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Gene_Schneider
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10513
Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
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08-05-12 08:28 PM - Post#2256206
In response to bobg1951chevy
The "rubber"eal is for 1955 and up. That is the way Chevrolet described it in the parts book and the way FelPro describes it in their catalog. The seal grove is too deep in the block and cap on the earlier models and the seal lip will not contact the crankshaft.
What I did for my 1950 is insert a nylon tie strap under the seal to bring the seal out farther. It takes about .045" to do it. This makes the seal too long so I trimmmed some of the ends of the top and bottom seals using the main bearing cap as a guide. I used a litle Permatex on the sides of the seal to make it stick in place.
So far it has worked for me.
| ChevGene
1934 Master sedan
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