DADS53
Contributor
Posts: 174
Loc: Yak. Valley WA
Reg: 09-19-11
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04-26-12 12:07 PM - Post#2219363
I'm at a crossroads, I have to decide on an engine to put into my '53. My choices are a '54 235, a '58 235 and a '62 261, as well as two bare blocks: the original 235 and a '60 261.
Assuming each one requires about the same amount of money to get running again, which one would you use?
I plan to use the car for family outings & local shows so reliability is what I'm after, are the oiling improvements of the later engines such an issue?
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arnieg141
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6082

Loc: nj
Reg: 10-06-08
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04-26-12 12:15 PM - Post#2219364
In response to DADS53
261
| GET ER DONE .. AS I GET OLDER I LIKE FAST CARS I CAN STILL DRIVE. AND VERY SLOW WOMEN I CAN CATCH while still able..arnie garrison |
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Happy Belair
Contributor
Posts: 859
Reg: 10-29-06
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04-26-12 01:46 PM - Post#2219392
In response to arnieg141
agreeded, 261....preferably the newset one the 62 if complete.
Does that block have provisions for a side mount to the 235 mounting towers. I dont know
54 Belair 1067DTX, Roman red 327 Turbo350
54 Belair Hardtop, just bod off frame,work in progress
54 210 Station wagon Father in laws pass me down |
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DADS53
Contributor
Posts: 174
Loc: Yak. Valley WA
Reg: 09-19-11
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04-26-12 07:01 PM - Post#2219509
In response to Happy Belair
I can fabricate side brackets to match the frame towers.
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chum58
"2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 257

Loc: Sherwood Park Alta.
Reg: 04-19-11
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04-26-12 07:31 PM - Post#2219523
In response to DADS53
261 over 235 any day.I'm in the process of installing a 261 and pg into my '53.
Norm
53 Chev Belair HT
62 261
54 pg/diff
Fenton alum twin with Carter/Webbers
(Tom Langdons)
Corvette split exh. manifold. Cherry Bombs /28in
Petronic ignition |
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Gene_Schneider
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 10512
Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
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04-26-12 07:47 PM - Post#2219533
In response to DADS53
If the little added performance of a 261 is not necessary I would go for the 1954 235. The oiling systems are all the same and it is a direct bolt-in.
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1934 Master sedan
1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan
1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide
1957 Nomad 283 PG
1963 Corvair Convertible |
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DADS53
Contributor
Posts: 174
Loc: Yak. Valley WA
Reg: 09-19-11
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04-26-12 09:46 PM - Post#2219567
In response to Gene_Schneider
Thanks everyone!
That 261 is temping, if even just for bragging rites. Think I'll start with the '54 235, that way if I mess something up I wouldn't have ruined a 261 on my first build; not to mention, it would be a drop in, I like easy .
Since I've gathered this collection, I'm thinking of putting together 2 or 3 of the engines as back-ups; and if possible re-use the original block for one of them. I heard somewhere that they're not making these blocks any more .
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chum58
"2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 257

Loc: Sherwood Park Alta.
Reg: 04-19-11
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04-26-12 10:04 PM - Post#2219571
In response to DADS53
Actually a 261 is a drop in too except for a little tweeking on the engine mounts,the towers are ok. You're making a good decision on the 235 as they are a fantastic motor. Good luck
Norm
53 Chev Belair HT
62 261
54 pg/diff
Fenton alum twin with Carter/Webbers
(Tom Langdons)
Corvette split exh. manifold. Cherry Bombs /28in
Petronic ignition |
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bobg1951chevy
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4865

Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
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04-26-12 10:21 PM - Post#2219575
In response to DADS53
'62 261
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6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1862
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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04-27-12 01:32 AM - Post#2219586
In response to DADS53
All the heads are interchangeable, with the "848" casting as the preferred head - the chambers are the smallest for more compression. Pocket porting above the intake seats will help breathing some and can be done yourself. Had a shop do my porting (time limits) for around $150, back in '08. If you need intake valves, go with the 1.94" PG vale over the standard 1.88 - every lil' bit helps on a six! I question the necessity of Stellite exhaust valves and hard seats for a hobby car, but if the valves are shot, go ahead and upgrade - valves are the same as the early V-8's, not expensive.
I would start out with the engine with the LEAST AMOUNT OF WEAR on the cylinders and crank - you might get by with just rings and bearings, aluminum timing gear set, reground cam and lifters, STOCK-GM oil pump. Molly rings are still available for the 235 - only cast or chrome for the 261 AFIK.
BE AWARE - aftermarket oil pump gaskets seem to be too thick, will lead to low oil pressure! Stock gasket is .009" thick (as per Gene Schneider). Tom Langdon might still have GM gaskets available. I made my own from a file folder that was .008" thick. You need .002-.0025" clearance between the gears and cover, with the gasket. Also, use sealer on both sides, install cover w/ bolts then remove to wipe away squeeze-out, then install. I have BETTER oil pressure with a USED GM PUMP and loose bearing clearances in my 235 "turd motor" than with a new aftermarket pump and good clearances on my 3/4 race 235 that spun a bearing!
The stock cam is LAME at best - a mild 3/4 grind really, REALLY helps mid-range TORQUE and HP - even with a stock intake and carb!
MOST IMPORTANT - Use the best, most experienced machinist you can find - don't go with the lowest bidder. This will save you A TON of headaches and hartbreak later! Trust me, I've seen the results...
If you like, PM me and I can share more tips by phone. I LOVE these ol' turds!!!
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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arnieg141
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6082

Loc: nj
Reg: 10-06-08
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04-27-12 03:25 AM - Post#2219593
In response to Gene_Schneider
like gene says is good idea..and the 261 you can sell for a lot of goodies to add to your car
| GET ER DONE .. AS I GET OLDER I LIKE FAST CARS I CAN STILL DRIVE. AND VERY SLOW WOMEN I CAN CATCH while still able..arnie garrison |
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kitabel
Contributor
Posts: 291
Reg: 11-28-09
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04-28-12 06:40 AM - Post#2219893
In response to 6-bangertim
I would start out with the engine with the LEAST AMOUNT OF WEAR
X2 - a bad crank or mains will add much $$$ to the rebuild cost.
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