57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
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Reg: 08-19-03
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06-16-12 09:04 PM - Post#2238063
I have a friend with a muncie M20 tranny that I am going to buy. What I am looking for are pics of how the shifter comes through the floor. Is it off to the side of the hump? Anybody out there still running a 4 speed ?
Let me know how you like it & what you don't like about it
Thanks
Tommy
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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awsum55
Senior Member
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06-17-12 12:08 AM - Post#2238115
In response to 57TOMMY
It's a great transmission, I run one in my '63 Corvette. It has a nice low 1st gear (2.52) and it can handle a modest amount of HP.
Five things that you cannot recover in life:
* The Stone after it's thrown
* The Word after it's said
* An Occasion after it's missed
* The Time after it's gone
* A person after they die |
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 6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1862
Age: 55
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Reg: 11-30-08
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06-17-12 12:28 AM - Post#2238117
In response to 57TOMMY
The HURST tri-five shifter is universal for ALL the 4-speeds - T-10, Muncie and Saginaw. What IS different is the "Installation Kit" with the shift rods and mounting hardware, sold seperately. I'd say that my shifter sits pretty close to center on the hump in my '57, with a Saginaw-3.11.
The Hurst is a PITA to install, as the stick doesn't unbolt from the shifter body. The stick comes forward 2-1/2 - 3" to clear the bench seat, then curves upward and back. I just kinda guessed where I needed to start cutting the floorboard with a tape measure and a paint stick. I never thought until now to make a cardboard template of the shifter AND STICK to make it less of a guesstimate.  Once I got the shifter in the car, it was just a matter trimming the hole big enough to clear the stick for reverse and the forward gears.
To do it again, I would make a cardboard cut-out of the shifter and stick - at least you can bend it around under the car!  Well worth the effort for the fun of shifting a HURST on a 4-speed!!! 
Good Luck, Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
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06-17-12 06:13 AM - Post#2238163
In response to 6-bangertim
Thanks guys, looking forward to shifting again
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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 Pistol
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3554
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06-17-12 07:09 AM - Post#2238185
In response to 57TOMMY
I'm not sure which shifter you need to make the stick part removable but here is the stick part
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUU-3913780/
Here is my 4-speed setup with the shifter
I modded my floor to have the boot and plate to sit straight, the boot is from a Mazda handbrake
here is the mod area
here is the section I cut out
Pete
Awl speeling misteaks r myn
57 BelAir 2DRHT My-Pics |
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
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06-17-12 07:36 AM - Post#2238198
In response to Pistol
great pics,& thanks for the link to the shifter Thanks Peter. Any concerns or surprises I should look our for? I am going from a 700r4 to the muncie. I know I will have to switch the cross member, Any advise
Thanks all
Tommy
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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Edited by 57TOMMY on 06-17-12 07:54 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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6-bangertim
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1862
Age: 55
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
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06-17-12 10:16 AM - Post#2238245
In response to 57TOMMY
What are your gears and tire size Tommy? I was just thinking that a GEAR VENDERS overdrive would be pretty cool on the back of the Muncie!
GOOD pics Pete! 
- Tim
Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender
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Mowman
Member
Posts: 387
Age: 63
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 04-13-04
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06-17-12 10:36 AM - Post#2238247
In response to 57TOMMY
Here is what mine looks like.
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
Loc: Bay Area , Calif
Reg: 08-19-03
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06-17-12 12:21 PM - Post#2238290
In response to Mowman
27 inch tires ,3.08 gears so I dont think my RPM's will be too bad at 65 - 70 mph...around 2500 to 2600 if all of the calculators are correct
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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06-17-12 04:12 PM - Post#2238361
In response to 57TOMMY
Shifter in 1st gear with seat all the way back.
Mr. Gasket boot with trim ring under carpet.
Shifter works with lots of transmissions. There are two kits for Muncies depending on shift shaft type -- stud & nut, or bolt. Throw away the nylon bushings and use steel bushings.
My floor cutout is around 6"-8" long and 2" wide. The bottom of the shifter will protrude thru the floor in 2nd and 4th gears.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 06-17-12 04:20 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
Loc: Bay Area , Calif
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06-17-12 05:46 PM - Post#2238414
In response to MikeB
I like that look thanks Mike
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56sedandelivery
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2547
Age: 61
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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06-17-12 05:48 PM - Post#2238416
In response to 6-bangertim
The HURST tri-five shifter is universal for ALL the 4-speeds - T-10, Muncie and Saginaw. What IS different is the "Installation Kit" with the shift rods and mounting hardware, sold seperately. I'd say that my shifter sits pretty close to center on the hump in my '57, with a Saginaw-3.11.
The Hurst is a PITA to install, as the stick doesn't unbolt from the shifter body. The stick comes forward 2-1/2 - 3" to clear the bench seat, then curves upward and back. I just kinda guessed where I needed to start cutting the floorboard with a tape measure and a paint stick. I never thought until now to make a cardboard template of the shifter AND STICK to make it less of a guesstimate. Once I got the shifter in the car, it was just a matter trimming the hole big enough to clear the stick for reverse and the forward gears.
To do it again, I would make a cardboard cut-out of the shifter and stick - at least you can bend it around under the car! Well worth the effort for the fun of shifting a HURST on a 4-speed!!!
Good Luck, Tim
My shifter tower is a Hurst, but originally from a MOPAR Pistol Grip in a Challenger. I gave the shift lever to a MOPAR friend, drilled it for the bolt on style holes, as it was a push-in style originally, traded for the right shifter rods and arms, and then bought a Hurst P/N 238-8620 Tri-Five bench seat shift lever. Everything except the new lever were used parts. I can now unbolt the shifter lever from the tower and pull the trans with the shifter tower/linkage intact. All I really have in the setup is what the new shifter lever cost ($$$). I just could'nt see having to remove the shifter tower to remove the trans. Butch/56sedandelivery.
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busyguy8
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5647
Age: 42
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Reg: 11-21-04
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06-17-12 11:08 PM - Post#2238556
In response to 56sedandelivery
so ya really gonna do it, Tommy? 
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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06-18-12 03:52 AM - Post#2238570
In response to 56sedandelivery
My shifter tower is a Hurst, but originally from a MOPAR Pistol Grip in a Challenger. I gave the shift lever to a MOPAR friend, drilled it for the bolt on style holes, as it was a push-in style originally, traded for the right shifter rods and arms, and then bought a Hurst P/N 238-8620 Tri-Five bench seat shift lever. Everything except the new lever were used parts. I can now unbolt the shifter lever from the tower and pull the trans with the shifter tower/linkage intact. I just could'nt see having to remove the shifter tower to remove the trans. Butch/56sedandelivery.
I'm pretty sure the 55-57 kit had had a bolt-on bench seat shifter handle back in the 60s-70s. It was much easier to install than the new welded-together setup. 
Butch, will you post pictures of yours? I'd like to see how the shifter handle connects to the shifter mechanism.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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Edited by MikeB on 06-18-12 03:58 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Pistol
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3554
Age: 66
Loc: Terryville, Ct.
Reg: 11-11-02
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06-18-12 04:39 AM - Post#2238578
In response to 56sedandelivery
Butch is the shifter you have a 3916790 http://www.hurst-shifters.com/?wpsc-product=compet...
Pete
Awl speeling misteaks r myn
57 BelAir 2DRHT My-Pics |
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
Loc: Bay Area , Calif
Reg: 08-19-03
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06-18-12 06:37 AM - Post#2238617
In response to Pistol
Thanks guys . Yep B Monte called Saturday, he has the M20 out of his Z. I told him after Hot August Nights I will call him. 
Tommy
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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 tri5ss
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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06-18-12 11:09 AM - Post#2238726
In response to 57TOMMY
great pics,& thanks for the link to the shifter Thanks Peter. Any concerns or surprises I should look our for? I am going from a 700r4 to the muncie. I know I will have to switch the cross member, Any advise
Thanks all
Tommy
The 700R4 is longer than the Muncie so you will need a new driveshaft. I don't remember the exact dimensions for the Muncie but the 700R4 is 30.75in and I believe the Muncie is about 3 inches shorter.
From the Hemmings website:
"On GM Turbo 350, 200-4R and the 700-R4 automatics, the transmission mount is the same as the one used for the Muncie."
If the input shaft has 10 splines, then the output shaft should be 27, same as your 700R4.
Good luck with the install. I took a Muncie out and put in a 200 4R and really miss the Muncie.
Randy
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
Loc: Bay Area , Calif
Reg: 08-19-03
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06-18-12 12:32 PM - Post#2238774
In response to tri5ss
Thanks Randy ,yep ready to shift again
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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cnbell
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 8655
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 04-14-04
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06-18-12 01:05 PM - Post#2238788
In response to 57TOMMY
Tommy, don't you have a 700r4 in it ?
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
Loc: Bay Area , Calif
Reg: 08-19-03
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06-18-12 06:59 PM - Post#2238923
In response to cnbell
yep, 700r4 bowtie setup, works fine I just want a change.
By the way Craig, how have you been? Is that a Nomad I see you working on
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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Edited by 57TOMMY on 06-18-12 07:00 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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busyguy8
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5647
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Reg: 11-21-04
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06-18-12 08:55 PM - Post#2238957
In response to 57TOMMY
Tommy,
Monte called me and got your number about the tranny. I'm excited you're goin for it!
-b
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56sedandelivery
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2547
Age: 61
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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06-18-12 10:53 PM - Post#2238974
In response to MikeB
My shifter tower is a Hurst, but originally from a MOPAR Pistol Grip in a Challenger. I gave the shift lever to a MOPAR friend, drilled it for the bolt on style holes, as it was a push-in style originally, traded for the right shifter rods and arms, and then bought a Hurst P/N 238-8620 Tri-Five bench seat shift lever. Everything except the new lever were used parts. I can now unbolt the shifter lever from the tower and pull the trans with the shifter tower/linkage intact. I just could'nt see having to remove the shifter tower to remove the trans. Butch/56sedandelivery.
I'm pretty sure the 55-57 kit had had a bolt-on bench seat shifter handle back in the 60s-70s. It was much easier to install than the new welded-together setup.
Butch, will you post pictures of yours? I'd like to see how the shifter handle connects to the shifter mechanism.
My digital camera is currently "T/U"; it's got 2 large dots in the viewer. I had to drill 2 holes for the bolt-on stick, as the shifter tower was originally a push-in stick with the MOPAR pistol grip. I also had to use a press to "squash" the reciever in a little and use spacers; it's tight/solid. Butch/56sedandelivery.
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56sedandelivery
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2547
Age: 61
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
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06-18-12 11:00 PM - Post#2238976
In response to Pistol
My shifter tower is an original factory equipment MOPAR/Hurst Pistol Grip that I gave the shift lever away on, drilled some holes, and bought the bench seat style tri-five shifter lever. The only number on the tower, other than the 3 patent numbers, is 6356. I've not actually seen a bench seat style shifter lever for a tri-five that was'nt a welded on stick; and was surprised to see they even made a bolt-on stick; bought it off E-Bay new. The reverse lever is longer and somewhat curved, but the reverse rod I used had enough threads to adjust it correctly on the MOPAR/Hurst. Butch/56sedandelivery.
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57TOMMY
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1204
Age: 54
Loc: Bay Area , Calif
Reg: 08-19-03
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06-19-12 06:01 AM - Post#2239046
In response to 56sedandelivery
Hey Busy
I am glad you are excited I just hope you stay that way when I ask you to come over & help me 
Tommy
Stand up for what is right ,even if you stand alone.
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2Loose
"9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 3864
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06-19-12 11:14 AM - Post#2239141
In response to 57TOMMY
Don't know if this will help ya much or not, but here it is:
I had an M20 I was going to use in the '55 gasser project, but then I ran across an early Doug Nash 5 speed in good condition, the Hurst shifter lever for that had to be cut just above the bolt holes and rewelded in a more forward leaning position to clear the bench seat. But it is positioned easily at hand for shifting, it's a comfortable position. The position of the shifter mechanism under the floor tunnel looks to me to be very close to if not exactly the same as the Hurst for the M20 would have been. I gave my M20 to a buddy who is building up a nice cruiser homebuilt 2,000 lb roadster with a mild 283, the M20 will be perfect for him. FWIW, here's a pix of how the shifter fit came out in my '55 with the Doug Nash and the bench seat:
The cardboard template is for the vinyl boot I sewed up for it. Here's how it looks with the boot installed before I put the seat back in:
The cord running up the tunnel from the shifter is for the line lock button mounted just below the shifter knob. It is amazing how many times I use that button to hold the car at a stop sign or a stop light when it wants to roll forward or backward while putting it in gear to get going. Way easier than working with the parking brake!
Good luck with yours, show us some pix as it goes in.
Aloha,
Willy
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awsum55
Senior Member
Posts: 8838
Age: 60
Loc: O.P. Kansas
Reg: 09-27-01
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06-19-12 03:05 PM - Post#2239201
In response to 2Loose
It is amazing how many times I use that button to hold the car at a stop sign or a stop light when it wants to roll forward or backward while putting it in gear to get going. Way easier than working with the parking brake!
That statement would make people that don't know your history believe you don't know how to drive a stick.  
Five things that you cannot recover in life:
* The Stone after it's thrown
* The Word after it's said
* An Occasion after it's missed
* The Time after it's gone
* A person after they die |
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REBORN55
Very Senior Member
Posts: 2085
Loc: DeSoto, Illinois. 62924
Reg: 01-21-01
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06-19-12 05:17 PM - Post#2239251
In response to awsum55
This what mine looks like with the late model M-20
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MikeB
Senior Member
Posts: 9388
Loc: Plano, TX
Reg: 08-28-03
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06-19-12 05:36 PM - Post#2239258
In response to REBORN55
Ken,
Nice looking interior. You don't see many that color . Same goes for the paint.
Real Hot Rods have a Clutch!
1955 210 2dr: 327, Brodix IK180 heads, Jones cam, Muncie M20, Wilwood front brakes
1969 C-10 pickup: 350, TH350
My car pictures
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cnbell
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 8655
Loc: So Cal
Reg: 04-14-04
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06-19-12 06:05 PM - Post#2239265
In response to 57TOMMY
Hi Tommy,
Yeah, bought the Nomad around Thanksgiving, needs a full resto. Not sure of the direction yet, hopefully I'll figure that out as I go....
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busyguy8
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5647
Age: 42
Loc: SF Bay Area, CA
Reg: 11-21-04
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06-19-12 07:11 PM - Post#2239287
In response to 57TOMMY
anytime Tommy!
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