chevee55
Contributor
Posts: 430
Loc: Oshkosh, WI
Reg: 09-05-03
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04-18-12 04:21 PM - Post#2216623
I tried in the Autobody forumm, but no replies in a few days, so I thought I would try here.
I am stripping the paint off my 1955 Belair sedan. I have mostly used a heat gun and scraper for the bulk of the work getting off 30+ year old lacquer. Then, I sparingly use a palm sander (100 grit) to finish paint removal and smooth out the rough spots where I can get.
I am doing this myself to basically save costs and to determine the extent of bodywork required. The car stays in my heated (50-65 deg depending on weather) garage with ceiling fan running.
Any experience with or thoughts about using "CitriStrip" or similar product on the large flat areas (doors, hood, roof, etc) to eliminate any warpage from heat?
Should I be worried about flash rusting?
It has beem good for a week, now. What would be a good way to prevent it? Spray can primer?
I do not have a sandblaster or a welder, so I will be taking the car to a body shop in a couple months for the major body work. I don't want to add costs to the body man to remove a light coat of spray paint if I don't have to.
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Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1663
Reg: 01-03-07
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04-19-12 03:30 AM - Post#2216789
In response to chevee55
Hello;
The way I know involves Aircraft Stripper and may end up with surface rust. The other way is to have it soda blasted! I have seen this performed at a persons' house (driveway) as some are portable. I have also seen that some have their car blasted with the windshield still in place, but if you can, this is truly the way to go. Soda blasts the paint, and does not warp the metal like sand blasting does.
On another note I have seen body gurus use whats known as a ROLOC pad (3") and practically "buff" the body completely void of anything!
Bruce
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 gotta56forme
"8th Year"Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3282
Age: 50
Loc: West Seattle
Reg: 09-19-03
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04-19-12 06:59 AM - Post#2216835
In response to Bruces 57
When I do a search for 'picklex' or 'ospho', I come up with quite a few threads that may interest you...
Scott/Gotta56forme
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 swbatt
West Coast Show Support
Posts: 3543
Reg: 03-25-01
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04-19-12 07:22 AM - Post#2216842
In response to gotta56forme
I use "Jasco" stripper, not cheap but lifts paint right off. Washes off with water when done.
Then a coating of "Krud Cutter". It is a metal etch, meant to be applied and washed of with water right before paint. The bottle says if it is left to dry, is can provide a barrier to rust and actually continues to act in a limited way. It is not cheap either, but seems to keep rust off until the next session.
Both available at the local hardware store. Stripper is less than $30 a gal and the KC has phosphorus in it is $5 per 8oz, but spreads well.
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chevee55
Contributor
Posts: 430
Loc: Oshkosh, WI
Reg: 09-05-03
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04-20-12 09:40 PM - Post#2217468
In response to swbatt
I have a smaller bottle of CitriStrip left over from a failed attempt to strip some chairs that just wasn't gonna be worth it. I'll head to Harbor Freight in the morning and pick up some rubber gloves and cheapo disposable brushes for application. I'll let you know how it goes on one of the doors. I may grab some plastic drop cloths, too, so the mess is easier to clean up.
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chevee55
Contributor
Posts: 430
Loc: Oshkosh, WI
Reg: 09-05-03
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04-20-12 09:44 PM - Post#2217470
In response to Bruces 57
Bruce, I have some nylon cup brushes that did a nice smooth "polish" paint removal job, without leaving visible scratches like the paint-buster discs. I used one on the driver's front fender trim spear body line - worked well.
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Bruces 57
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1663
Reg: 01-03-07
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04-21-12 04:41 AM - Post#2217498
In response to chevee55
Hello;
Roloc is a reference to the system of a backing disc that mounts on your die grinder. Then the discs have this sort of threaded center that screws onto that disc. The mediums for this come in a veriety of of different things from 8o grit to a scotch pad sort of surface. I used this to strip my window moldings, it worked really nice except my compressor just couldn't keep up with it
I have seen complete cars "polished" to bare metal using this system, but this system really makes short work of hard to reach areas as well as difficult to "get into" areas.
The Roloc I have has 2 different sizes, 2" and 3" and you can get the discs from HF!
Bruce
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chevee55
Contributor
Posts: 430
Loc: Oshkosh, WI
Reg: 09-05-03
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05-11-12 08:16 PM - Post#2225008
In response to Bruces 57
Update:
The CitriStrip mostly worked, but took a while and will need a second application to complete the job.
The topcoat lacquer peeled off in large pieces, much like a latex paint after letting it work for a number of days.
It did basically nothing for the first 4 hours, so I just left it and went on with life.
I came back to it many days later, and again today, and had mild success. There were still areas where I needed to scrape, but it is MUCH easier than without it. (I do not plan to apply heat to the door skins.)
It will take at least one more coat to get thru to the original primer. It actually did penetrate deeper where the paste/gel was applied heavier. It will be worth it.
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 Sting Ray
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Loc: Drag City, California
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05-14-12 11:00 AM - Post#2225827
In response to chevee55
I'm in the middle of prepping for paint and when I have bare metal I treat it with Ospho. Sometimes days go by before I can get back to the project and this stuff works well to seal the surface from flash rust.
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Big T
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
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Loc: Simi Valley CA
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05-14-12 08:29 PM - Post#2225984
In response to chevee55
Trevor
Isn't that a bunch of fun?? It seems it took me forever getting it cleaned up. The roof paint was like a rock. 80 grit and airplane paint stripper and it took days.
Tom
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chevee55
Contributor
Posts: 430
Loc: Oshkosh, WI
Reg: 09-05-03
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06-10-12 04:42 PM - Post#2235544
In response to Big T
The Citrustrip works OK, but it is best when left to sit for at least 2-3 days. Even then, it is only taking off the top lacquer paint layer. The primer/sealer that went over the original black paint takes some mechanical action to remove.
I got home improvement projects and other business lately, so my time has been limited to get it completely stripped. I am contemplating leaving the roof paint alone, except in a small area where I had a few tiny rust bubbles. I may not strip the hood, as it was painted less than 10 yrs ago.
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