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Username Post: Brake pedal geometry -w- new booster & master cyl? No pedal after bleeding.
1956chevy 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 286
1956chevy
Loc: Orlando, FL .
Reg: 05-11-01
04-26-12 02:35 PM - Post#2219410    

Hello all. I have got my new 7" dual diaphragm brake booster, master cyl and proportioning valve installed. I have all new brake lines with 1/4" to the back, and 3/16" to the front (2 lines). I installed check valve bleeders at all four wheels. It is a disc/disc system.

Here is the unit I installed.






When I rebuilt the pedal assembly I drilled a new brake hole an inch lower than the stock hole, as I had read a lot about using the lower hole for newer boosters.

I confirmed with the seller of the brake parts that I should use the new, lower hole on the brake pedal.

When I tried to install the pushrod and clevis it is way too low to line up. I could get it installed if I tried, but the angle of the pushrod into the booster was about 30 to 40 degrees. That can not be good for the booster. I called the seller and they said to use the stock (upper) hole so the pushrod would be straight into the booster. That is what I did.

I bench bleed the master cyl very carefully, then installed it after having no bubbles in it. I bleed all wheels using the check valve bleeders I installed, and clear tubing into a small bottle that had a magnet on it so I could hang it above the caliper each time.

All four wheels have no air in the lines, I have no leaks, but I barely have any brake pedal.

Does this have anything to do with the reduced distance the pushrod is traveling? I guess what I am asking is, what is the purpose of the lower hole in the brake pedal for the power booster? If anyone uses this, how do you get the brake pushrod to line up? That side load on the booster can't be good.

Any ideas?
Keith Marang
Webmaster
Central Oklahoma Classic Chevy Club
www.55-57chevys.com

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