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Username Post: Brake pedal geometry -w- new booster & master cyl? No pedal after bleeding.
Rick_L 
Honored Member
Posts: 24808

Loc: Katy, Tx, USA
Reg: 07-06-00
04-26-12 04:18 PM - Post#2219447    
    In response to acardon

Don's comments are on the money.

I would add this. When you drill that hole lower on the pedal arm you are reducing the travel, but you are also decreasing the line pressure for a given force on the pedal. A 7" booste, even a dual one, doesn't have a lot of boost, so with those you don't want to change the pedal ratio and lose line pressure. The other reason for mounting the booster at an angle is to make it clear other things in the engine compartment but the 7" boosters usually don't have problems because they are small.

If you use the stock pedal ratio, you should still have sufficient travel if you didn't have a booster, and adding the booster does not change any of that.

What I would do if I were you would be to first check your rear brake adjuastment. This affects pedal height with discs and power just like in the stock system. The other thing is if you have rear drums you need residual pressure valves somewhere in the rear lines. If you used a GM type disc/drum combination valve it has one, otherwise you may need to add it. It will raise the pedal a bit.

After that it's a matter of getting the air out of the lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders.
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