http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/72/Recent Performance Related posts.enSun, 26 May 2013 05:50:01 GMTSun, 26 May 2013 05:50:01 GMThttp://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rssFusionBB 2.1 (www.fusionbb.com)012Sundayhttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297898/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297898/ ]]>Sun, 26 May 2013 02:06:57 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297893/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297893/
Thinking that maybe the regulator spring was weak after years of use, I replaced the spring. That didn't make any difference.

I disassembled it, and found that the commutator on the motor itself was badly worn, so I pulled the motor and can off of an older red pump I had laying around. I cleaned everything up and replaced the gasket while I was in there; everything works properly. Put it together, and it still behaves the same.

So, old and new regulator spring + shuttle = no change. Old and new motor = same behavior. I measured the voltage at the motor, and it's right on 14.3 volts as expected in both cases. The only thing I can think of is that maybe both motors have issues getting warm (it happens whether the car's just sitting and idling, or running down the road, so neither fuel flow nor air flow seem to matter), and maybe the warm motor just slows down. The old motor I could acually hear stop, but I didn't wait this time to see if it stopped; when the pressure got to 1PSI, I just shut it down and decided that I'd laid out under the car in the rain enough today.


Is this a common problem with the red pumps, or what? Unless someone has a great revelation for me, I'm going to table this in favor of just installing the caprice tank w/ in-tank pump and a bypass regulator in the car. But that means fabricating new tank straps, running a return line (and a new feed part of the way), and cutting a hole in the trunk - so I'm really hoping for a magical fix that I've been overlooking. And I hate to think that I've wasted this much time on a pump that's just garbage. ]]>Sun, 26 May 2013 00:29:46 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297873/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297873/
Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,500-4,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 214
Duration at 050 inch Lift 204 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration 272
Advertised Duration 262 int./272 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory
Rocker Arm Ratio
0.420 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory
Rocker Arm Ratio
0.442 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker
Arm Ratio
0.420 int./0.442 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112

Mainly I just want to get a carb with an electric choke. Looking like it's cheaper to just go with a remanufactured Rochester 2bbl with an electric choke from carbsonly.com ]]>Sat, 25 May 2013 13:13:32 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297872/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297872/
The engine going in it is a stock 2-barrel out of a '70 Monte Carlo that I'm going to slightly mod with an Edelbrock Performer dual-plane 4-barrel intake and 500 CFM Carter carb.

I've been recommended 2 different cams, and I was wondering if anybody has experience with either.

The two cams are:

Edelbrock 252H

Lunati 60101

Any advice as to whether one will work better for my intended purpose than the other? Is there another cam that might be more suitable than either of the two I'm looking at? ]]>Sat, 25 May 2013 12:20:51 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297861/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297861/
The rear end shop told me it wouldn't work in a Tri5 because of the off-set in the pumpkin.

I already had the axles filled and drilled, green bearings, a 3:23 posi and the 742 housing, new backing plates, brake drums etc. because it looked like the brakes would be no problem and the rear would be a tough competitor.

It might work in a smaller Chevy II or Nova with only some minor mods. How can I figure it out?
Thanks

Stan ]]>Sat, 25 May 2013 00:28:18 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297815/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297815/
so my question 4 yall is this..
1. have anyone tried to NOT use a gasket and use sealant of some type and if so . how did it work out.
2. i know not to use the rubber front and rear seal for the intake but got a good sealant recommendation for that use?
3.this could be why i could never adjust my air to fuel ratio as there is a vacume leak but wil that make my plugs black and crusty all the time.( possibly yes i figure)
4.there is no 4 !haha

but seriously, why would an semi new engine of about 3 years even get one so fast.. oh yeah got a recommendation for the gasket type or material for this also .. this is the one dart recommends for it but paper is kinda flimsy to me. but i may be using it and or sealing it wrong to ..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1206
ideas greatly appreciated.
]]>Fri, 24 May 2013 00:32:54 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297809/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297809/ can't drive it on the street for fear of going over the guy in front of me
a lot of people tell me its been a problem with the motor but no one has helped with a solution
have had the truck for 6 years and have clocked under 500 miles

]]>Thu, 23 May 2013 22:47:46 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297703/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297703/
I checked the float level and bottom plugs, and see no leaks. This is not the original carb (1980 vette) but has the jets and rods from the original that worked great. I changed carbs because the original had bad gaskets and some cracks on the casting. Any ideas where the fuel is coming from? ]]>Tue, 21 May 2013 14:20:33 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297685/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297685/Greetings All:
Have a chance to buy a factory new 427 crank shaft. Here is my newbie question? Was stored in basement since purchased, never used, became rusted. Is this now a big anchor or can it still be saved without major work? I was wondering if journals need to be turned down due to rust and will rust affect the integrity of the crankshaft? Can get it for $50 bucks. Would keep it for a spare for the 427 engine I currently am building for my Henry J.
THANKS in advance for your help with my Newbie question.

Willow ]]>Tue, 21 May 2013 01:45:12 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297683/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297683/Tue, 21 May 2013 01:14:15 GMT